A DIY & home improvement forum. DIYbanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » DIYbanter forum » Do - it - Yourself » UK diy
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

knocking a door way into a wall



 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old April 5th 13, 02:51 PM
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2013
Posts: 17
Default knocking a door way into a wall

Hey folks,

In my new (old) victorian terrace, there's a fairly useless room at the back that is only accessible via an external door in the back garden. It's too small to use as a work shop, but it'd make an ideal place to house the washer,dryer and combi boiler, if I open a door way from the kitchen into it.

The dividing wall is solid, but there's no solid wall above, and the joists run parallel with the wall. I assume it's single skin wall, but I can drill through a small piece of mortar to get the depth.

The flooring in the room is screwed - and will need relaying, and the walls are bare brick, so they'll need to be plasterboarded out, as well as the ceiling. There are no services in the way of the proposed door way.

So i have a few questions re's how to go about this:

1) Should I assume the wall is load bearing and choose a sufficient lintel and use acroprops?

2) What size does the hole need to be to support a 32" door? I assume that a bit more than the width of door+width of casing x 2 will be required.

3) there's going to be brick at the base of the door - I assume I just chisel out enough of this to lay a solid floor over it.

4) Do I just go at it with a hammer and cold chisel, or should I get hold of something like a stihl saw to make the initial cut?

5) I assume there are no requirements re's fire rated doors etc. as it'll be an interior door.

Cheers,
imanc
Ads
  #2  
Old April 5th 13, 03:39 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,112
Default knocking a door way into a wall

On 05/04/2013 14:51, imanc wrote:

Hey folks,

In my new (old) victorian terrace, there's a fairly useless room at the
back that is only accessible via an external door in the back garden.
It's too small to use as a work shop, but it'd make an ideal place to
house the washer,dryer and combi boiler, if I open a door way from the
kitchen into it.

The dividing wall is solid, but there's no solid wall above, and the
joists run parallel with the wall. I assume it's single skin wall, but I
can drill through a small piece of mortar to get the depth.

The flooring in the room is screwed - and will need relaying, and the
walls are bare brick, so they'll need to be plasterboarded out, as well
as the ceiling. There are no services in the way of the proposed door
way.

So i have a few questions re's how to go about this:

1) Should I assume the wall is load bearing and choose a sufficient
lintel and use acroprops?

2) What size does the hole need to be to support a 32" door? I assume
that a bit more than the width of door+width of casing x 2 will be
required.

3) there's going to be brick at the base of the door - I assume I just
chisel out enough of this to lay a solid floor over it.

4) Do I just go at it with a hammer and cold chisel, or should I get
hold of something like a stihl saw to make the initial cut?

5) I assume there are no requirements re's fire rated doors etc. as
it'll be an interior door.

Cheers,
imanc




Sounds like the old outside loo, or possibly a coal-shed. Presumably the
kitchen is single story so when you say the wall is load bearing, you
mean it is helping to support the sloping roof of the kitchen. The
direction of the "slope" will tell you the direction of the roof joists.
Even if the joists go perpendicular to this wall, the wall won't be
carrying that much load. If you are going to replace the ceiling anyway,
take that down first and you can see what is going on.

  #3  
Old April 5th 13, 09:45 PM
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2013
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by newshound View Post
On 05/04/2013 14:51, imanc wrote:

Hey folks,

In my new (old) victorian terrace, there's a fairly useless room at the
back that is only accessible via an external door in the back garden.
It's too small to use as a work shop, but it'd make an ideal place to
house the washer,dryer and combi boiler, if I open a door way from the
kitchen into it.

The dividing wall is solid, but there's no solid wall above, and the
joists run parallel with the wall. I assume it's single skin wall, but I
can drill through a small piece of mortar to get the depth.

The flooring in the room is screwed - and will need relaying, and the
walls are bare brick, so they'll need to be plasterboarded out, as well
as the ceiling. There are no services in the way of the proposed door
way.

So i have a few questions re's how to go about this:

1) Should I assume the wall is load bearing and choose a sufficient
lintel and use acroprops?

2) What size does the hole need to be to support a 32" door? I assume
that a bit more than the width of door+width of casing x 2 will be
required.

3) there's going to be brick at the base of the door - I assume I just
chisel out enough of this to lay a solid floor over it.

4) Do I just go at it with a hammer and cold chisel, or should I get
hold of something like a stihl saw to make the initial cut?

5) I assume there are no requirements re's fire rated doors etc. as
it'll be an interior door.

Cheers,
imanc




Sounds like the old outside loo, or possibly a coal-shed. Presumably the
kitchen is single story so when you say the wall is load bearing, you
mean it is helping to support the sloping roof of the kitchen. The
direction of the "slope" will tell you the direction of the roof joists.
Even if the joists go perpendicular to this wall, the wall won't be
carrying that much load. If you are going to replace the ceiling anyway,
take that down first and you can see what is going on.
It's defo not the loo - that's the end of the garden. Could have been a coal shed, maybe!? It's thereabout's 2.5m x 1.5m. There's no sloping roof or anything like that. It's an oddity, no doubt. But most people on the road have extended their kitchens, or installed toilets etc. in there. I'll take some pics when it gets lighter.

I don't think it is load bearing, but I'm not sure. The joists run parallel to it, and it has no solid wall above. On top of that, this wall is 1.5m away from the main exterior wall at the back. It just separates the kitchen from the weird outhouse room. In an ideal world I'd just demolish the entire wall and have a much bigger kitchen, but I suspect this would require a structural engineer to confirm it's possible.

I'm now thinking, however, that it'd be better to sort the floor first. I lifted a tile in that room and it looks to be soil underneath - smells like soil too. So I think I'd need to excavate and fit a solid floor, as doing it whilst there's a gaping hole into the house would be messy.
  #4  
Old April 6th 13, 10:17 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,678
Default knocking a door way into a wall

On Friday, April 5, 2013 9:45:09 PM UTC+1, imanc wrote:
newshound;3041784 Wrote:
On 05/04/2013 14:51, imanc wrote:-
Hey folks,


I'm now thinking, however, that it'd be better to sort the floor first.
I lifted a tile in that room and it looks to be soil underneath - smells
like soil too. So I think I'd need to excavate and fit a solid floor,
as doing it whilst there's a gaping hole into the house would be messy.


I trust you'll insulate all over.


NT
  #5  
Old April 6th 13, 04:02 PM
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2013
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by View Post
On Friday, April 5, 2013 9:45:09 PM UTC+1, imanc wrote:
newshound;3041784 Wrote:
On 05/04/2013 14:51, imanc wrote:-
Hey folks,


I'm now thinking, however, that it'd be better to sort the floor first.
I lifted a tile in that room and it looks to be soil underneath - smells
like soil too. So I think I'd need to excavate and fit a solid floor,
as doing it whilst there's a gaping hole into the house would be messy.


I trust you'll insulate all over.


NT
I'd insulate the floor area. I'd be a bit reluctant to insulate the walls with celotex, as it'll diminsh the already small space.
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Costs of knocking a door through... seani UK diy 0 September 27th 08 01:43 PM
Knocking down a load bearing wall Pete L UK diy 5 December 9th 07 04:40 PM
Knocking through a wall and re-wiring Matt UK diy 9 March 31st 06 03:57 PM
Knocking a load bearing wall Chris UK diy 3 June 2nd 05 07:15 AM
Knocking down non load bearing wall PeteZahut UK diy 7 May 5th 05 01:13 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.