Hi all

More kitchen stuff....
I intend to fit a Myson Kick Space heater to avoid using wall space for a
radiator.
In the "technical" manual downloaded, the instruction for connection of a
room stat states "If a remote room thermostat is required, wire it into the
fused spur at this stage".

All sounds far too vague for my liking!


So the questions a

What room stat to use?
Cable or flex to this stat and spec?
How is this "wired in to the fused spur"? Does the stat simply act as a
switch and need wiring across the live from the fused spur to the heater?


TIA

Phil

TheScullster wrote:

More kitchen stuff....
I intend to fit a Myson Kick Space heater to avoid using wall space for a
radiator.
In the "technical" manual downloaded, the instruction for connection of a
room stat states "If a remote room thermostat is required, wire it into the
fused spur at this stage".

All sounds far too vague for my liking!

So the questions a

What room stat to use?

How about something like:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84704/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Controls/Horstmann-HRT2-Room-Thermostat

Cable or flex to this stat and spec?
How is this "wired in to the fused spur"? Does the stat simply act as a
switch and need wiring across the live from the fused spur to the heater?

You can download instructions on the above page, (some
interesting translations) it is an active device, so you need the
neutral, but the aim is to switch the live supply to the heater.
Once you leave the fused spur, AIUI you can use flex, of a size
appropriate for the fuse rating you have chosen.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all

More kitchen stuff....
I intend to fit a Myson Kick Space heater to avoid using wall space for a
radiator.
In the "technical" manual downloaded, the instruction for connection of a
room stat states "If a remote room thermostat is required, wire it into
the fused spur at this stage".

All sounds far too vague for my liking!


So the questions a

What room stat to use?
Cable or flex to this stat and spec?
How is this "wired in to the fused spur"? Does the stat simply act as a
switch and need wiring across the live from the fused spur to the heater?


I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate thermostat
for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an inbuilt
thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

HTH

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

"David WE Roberts" wrote


I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

HTH

Dave R

Hi Dave

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being called
for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the downstairs is
on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will run - as the
flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43 degrees c. If
there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then the kick space may
not be required/desirable even though other parts of the ground floor are
calling for heat.

Phil

TheScullster wrote:

"David WE Roberts" wrote

I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being called
for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the downstairs is
on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will run - as the
flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43 degrees c. If
there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then the kick space may
not be required/desirable even though other parts of the ground floor are
calling for heat.

Yes Phil, you are correct. I have set my thermostat relatively
low, it only kicks in on really cold mornings, as the kitchen is
otherwise well enough heated from cooking and solar gain.

The cost of the stat is not high, it is relatively simple to fit
at the time of installation, part L will like it, I should go
ahead..

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

On Jul 12, 5:29*pm, Chris J Dixon wrote:
TheScullster wrote:

"David WE Roberts" wrote

I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being called
for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the downstairs is
on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will run - as the
flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43 degrees c. *If
there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then the kick space may
not be required/desirable even though other parts of the ground floor are
calling for heat.

Yes Phil, you are correct. I have set my thermostat relatively
low, it only kicks in on really cold mornings, as the kitchen is
otherwise well enough heated from cooking and solar gain.

The cost of the stat is not high, it is relatively simple to fit
at the time of installation, part L will like it, I should go
ahead..

Chris

There are 2 types of stat, bimetal and electronic. Bimetals are more
reliable and far cheaper. A bimetal stat is almost just a switch, and
goes in the live line. I say almost as bimetals do need a neutral
connection (for an internal compensation device). Check the current
rating of the stat's contacts is upto the heater load - with HW run
heaters it will be, and if you want to be a perfectionist add a
snubber across the stat switch.


NT

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...

"David WE Roberts" wrote


I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

HTH

Dave R

Hi Dave

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being
called for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the
downstairs is on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will
run - as the flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43
degrees c. If there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then
the kick space may not be required/desirable even though other parts of
the ground floor are calling for heat.

Phil


I am pretty sure that there is still the option to turn the kickspace heater
off with the switches using the switches on the front of them when the
heating is on. You certainly can with my parents heater.

If you do install a thermostat then it is just a case of running a cable
(usually 3 core and earth) from the fused spur to the stat and the switched
live from the stat is then used as the live for the heater and connected
with a piece of strip connector behind the fused spur.

Personally I think that installing a room stat is a good idea. Who needs to
heat a kitchen on a winters night if you are sat in the lounge and you can
do away with all that bending down to turn them on and off.

Cheers

Adam

Hi Adam


I am pretty sure that there is still the option to turn the kickspace
heater off with the switches using the switches on the front of them when
the heating is on. You certainly can with my parents heater.

Yes that is an option, but a bit low-tech-and-manual - and not too good on
the old back!


If you do install a thermostat then it is just a case of running a cable
(usually 3 core and earth) from the fused spur to the stat and the
switched live from the stat is then used as the live for the heater and
connected with a piece of strip connector behind the fused spur.

Yes I think I've got it.
I've drawn up a diagram here
http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/m...ter-wiring.jpg
which I think is right.
There will be a lot going on in my single fused spur box though...
Loop in power, loop out power, 3 core and earth stat, 3 core heater supply -
will all that fit in a 35mm box?
Is it acceptable to stuff a choc-block type connector into the box to join
the switch wire? Seems a bit iffy to me!


Personally I think that installing a room stat is a good idea. Who needs
to heat a kitchen on a winters night if you are sat in the lounge and you
can do away with all that bending down to turn them on and off.

Cheers

Adam

Thanks

Phil

"TheScullster" wrote in message
...

Hi Adam


I am pretty sure that there is still the option to turn the kickspace
heater off with the switches using the switches on the front of them when
the heating is on. You certainly can with my parents heater.

Yes that is an option, but a bit low-tech-and-manual - and not too good on
the old back!


If you do install a thermostat then it is just a case of running a cable
(usually 3 core and earth) from the fused spur to the stat and the
switched live from the stat is then used as the live for the heater and
connected with a piece of strip connector behind the fused spur.

Yes I think I've got it.
I've drawn up a diagram here
http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/m...ter-wiring.jpg
which I think is right.
There will be a lot going on in my single fused spur box though...
Loop in power, loop out power, 3 core and earth stat, 3 core heater
supply - will all that fit in a 35mm box?
Is it acceptable to stuff a choc-block type connector into the box to join
the switch wire? Seems a bit iffy to me!


That diagram is the correct way to wire up what you want.

There is nothing wrong with a piece of strip connecter in the backbox. Use a
crimp connector if you prefer that.

Cheers

Adam

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all

More kitchen stuff....
I intend to fit a Myson Kick Space heater to avoid using wall space for a
radiator.
In the "technical" manual downloaded, the instruction for connection of a
room stat states "If a remote room thermostat is required, wire it into
the fused spur at this stage".

All sounds far too vague for my liking!


So the questions a

What room stat to use?
Cable or flex to this stat and spec?
How is this "wired in to the fused spur"? Does the stat simply act as a
switch and need wiring across the live from the fused spur to the heater?


I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

Yes, that's the way ours work. They have a cold setting too though and as
they are below the sink cupboard, they tend to get knocked on with the toes
of anyone working there. How, they do not notice the noise is a mystery.

S

HTH

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder