On Jul 12, 5:29*pm, Chris J Dixon wrote:
TheScullster wrote:

"David WE Roberts" wrote

I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate
thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an
inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing.
This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual
thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being called
for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the downstairs is
on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will run - as the
flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43 degrees c. *If
there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then the kick space may
not be required/desirable even though other parts of the ground floor are
calling for heat.

Yes Phil, you are correct. I have set my thermostat relatively
low, it only kicks in on really cold mornings, as the kitchen is
otherwise well enough heated from cooking and solar gain.

The cost of the stat is not high, it is relatively simple to fit
at the time of installation, part L will like it, I should go
ahead..

Chris

There are 2 types of stat, bimetal and electronic. Bimetals are more
reliable and far cheaper. A bimetal stat is almost just a switch, and
goes in the live line. I say almost as bimetals do need a neutral
connection (for an internal compensation device). Check the current
rating of the stat's contacts is upto the heater load - with HW run
heaters it will be, and if you want to be a perfectionist add a
snubber across the stat switch.


NT