[Mr Sandman]

It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

Steve

[RW[_4_]]

"Mr Sandman" wrote in message
...
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach
a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

Why not just wrap a copper tube around it and feed a small rad with a small
fan to keep the ambient temp up

[Tony Bryer]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000 Mr Sandman wrote :
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach
a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

http://www.tri-metric.com/ZenexWeb/html/gassaver.html

"Most boilers, even high efficiency SEDBUK ‘A’ rated condensing boilers,
still lose a substantial amount of heat through the flue outlet. The
GasSaver captures this heat and uses it to help generate hot water for
domestic use. The result is a typical annual saving of 37% of energy
required to deliver hot water."

A pretty good trick on a 90% efficient boiler!

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk

[cynic]

On 19 Feb, 17:27, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. *Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

Steve

Don't forget the tars which will condense out of the flue gases and
stick to the liner until such time as they ignite. Burning wood often
results in chimney fires

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , RW
writes

"Mr Sandman" wrote in message
...
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach
a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

Why not just wrap a copper tube around it and feed a small rad with a small
fan to keep the ambient temp up

When first married, we lived in a caravan fitted with a small solid fuel
stove.

The flue passed through a tall galvanized water tank. I can't report on
the performance as we used the farmhouse facilities and didn't need hot
water.

regards



--
Tim Lamb

[Mary Fisher]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message

When first married, we lived in a caravan fitted with a small solid fuel
stove.

The flue passed through a tall galvanized water tank. I can't report on
the performance as we used the farmhouse facilities and didn't need hot
water.

Our little (10') caravan in Wales has a gas fire and we often sit the kettle
on it to heat water.

Waste not ...

Mary

[Derek Geldard]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:56:44 -0000, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

Our little (10') caravan in Wales has a gas fire and we often sit the kettle
on it to heat water.

Waste not ...

I hope you don't drive there in your "large car" ?

DG

[Mr Sandman]

"cynic" wrote in message
...
On 19 Feb, 17:27, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach
a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

Steve

Don't forget the tars which will condense out of the flue gases and
stick to the liner until such time as they ignite. Burning wood often
results in chimney fires

At what temperature is the tar likely to condense? If you could sense the
flue temp in various stages up the flue, i suppose you could prevent the
flue from getting too cold?

I was thinking of using something like a sleeve over the flue with a fan
blowing air down the void between the flue and the sleeve and let it exit at
the log burner. if you used a series of sensors attached to the flue
controlling the fan speed dependant of flue temperature you could prevent
the flue from getting too cold that there would be insufficient draft so the
fire would burn ok and there would be limited condensing of tars.

Steve

[geoff]

In message , Tony Bryer
writes
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000 Mr Sandman wrote :
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach
a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

http://www.tri-metric.com/ZenexWeb/html/gassaver.html

"Most boilers, even high efficiency SEDBUK €˜A rated condensing boilers,
still lose a substantial amount of heat through the flue outlet. The
GasSaver captures this heat and uses it to help generate hot water for
domestic use. The result is a typical annual saving of 37% of energy
required to deliver hot water."

A pretty good trick on a 90% efficient boiler!


A must have for every Drivel


--
geoff

[Another Dave]

Mr Sandman wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

http://www.ecofan.co.uk/woodstove-ecofans.html

Another Dave

[The Natural Philosopher]

Another Dave wrote:
Mr Sandman wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and
attach a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even
better heat output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not
seen anything on the market that does this...so do you think it'd be
worth experimenting with?

http://www.ecofan.co.uk/woodstove-ecofans.html

Another Dave


sure, but one of the attractions of a woodburner is that it doesn't need
electricity.

[Another Dave]

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Another Dave wrote:
Mr Sandman wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and
attach a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even
better heat output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not
seen anything on the market that does this...so do you think it'd be
worth experimenting with?

http://www.ecofan.co.uk/woodstove-ecofans.html

Another Dave


sure, but one of the attractions of a woodburner is that it doesn't need
electricity.

The adverts state SPECIFICALLY that the fans don't need batteries or
electricity but are powered by the heat of the stove.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Another Dave wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Another Dave wrote:
Mr Sandman wrote:
It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and
attach a fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get
even better heat output where its wanted and not up the chimeny.
Ive not seen anything on the market that does this...so do you think
it'd be worth experimenting with?

http://www.ecofan.co.uk/woodstove-ecofans.html

Another Dave


sure, but one of the attractions of a woodburner is that it doesn't
need electricity.

The adverts state SPECIFICALLY that the fans don't need batteries or
electricity but are powered by the heat of the stove.


Those fans look like they simply stir the air around the boiler, They do
not work in the flue at all. I think they should be quietly filed under
'Green********' along with solar volatics on the roof, windmills on te
roof, CFL lightbulbs...

I cannot envisage the equivalent of a turbocharger working well in a
stove environment at all. Mind you, with a proper pulverside load of
coke hops. you could make a solid fueled gas turbine to generate
electricity AND et. Now theres a thought. The noise would be impossible tho.

[Grimly Curmudgeon]

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:


Those fans look like they simply stir the air around the boiler, They do
not work in the flue at all. I think they should be quietly filed under
'Green********' along with solar volatics on the roof, windmills on te
roof, CFL lightbulbs...

They do actually work in a small space, like a narrowboat cabin. Be
utterly useless in a larger room, iwt.
--

Dave

[Mark]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:

It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

I may be "teaching grandmother to suck eggs" but it is very important
to ensure the wood is thoroughly dry to get the best effeciency. Store
it for at least a year in a well ventilated dry place before use.

M.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Mark wrote:
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:

It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

I may be "teaching grandmother to suck eggs" but it is very important
to ensure the wood is thoroughly dry to get the best effeciency. Store
it for at least a year in a well ventilated dry place before use.

M.
Or you can store it for couple of months next to the stove, or for about
5 minutes IN the stove.

That gets the moisture out all right.

I've often burnt relatively freshly cut wood. It burns. It takes a
hotter fire to dry it, thats all.

I tend not to use 'wood burning stove' and 'efficiency' in the same
sentence anyway.

[Mark]

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 12:02:38 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Mark wrote:
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:

It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?

I may be "teaching grandmother to suck eggs" but it is very important
to ensure the wood is thoroughly dry to get the best effeciency. Store
it for at least a year in a well ventilated dry place before use.

M.
Or you can store it for couple of months next to the stove, or for about
5 minutes IN the stove.

That gets the moisture out all right.

I've often burnt relatively freshly cut wood. It burns. It takes a
hotter fire to dry it, thats all.

It does burn but, since some of the energy is wasted boiling water
which goes up the chimney, then it could be seen as less efficient.

However the reason I do not like burning "green" wood is the smoke
produced is much more unpleasant.

I tend not to use 'wood burning stove' and 'efficiency' in the same
sentence anyway.

Many would argue that it's better for the environment as it's not
using fossil fuels.

M.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Mark wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 12:02:38 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Mark wrote:
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:27:10 -0000, "Mr Sandman"
wrote:

It strikes me that if we could extract more heat from the flue and attach a
fan like one you'd see on a fan assisted boiler, we get even better heat
output where its wanted and not up the chimeny. Ive not seen anything on
the market that does this...so do you think it'd be worth experimenting
with?
I may be "teaching grandmother to suck eggs" but it is very important
to ensure the wood is thoroughly dry to get the best effeciency. Store
it for at least a year in a well ventilated dry place before use.

M.
Or you can store it for couple of months next to the stove, or for about
5 minutes IN the stove.

That gets the moisture out all right.

I've often burnt relatively freshly cut wood. It burns. It takes a
hotter fire to dry it, thats all.

It does burn but, since some of the energy is wasted boiling water
which goes up the chimney, then it could be seen as less efficient.

However the reason I do not like burning "green" wood is the smoke
produced is much more unpleasant.

I tend not to use 'wood burning stove' and 'efficiency' in the same
sentence anyway.

Many would argue that it's better for the environment as it's not
using fossil fuels.


Well it is using fuel that will be fossil one day if left longn enough ;-)


M.