cos I think the fridge you are talking about fails to work when the
difference between the inside and outside temperature is low, but must admit
18oC seems quite high :s. Quite alot of new fridges have this "problem" so i
suppose instead of your fridge defrosting the switch makes it work (probably
continuously)
"D.M. Procida" wrote in message
...
The instruction guide for our Bosch fridge tells us to press a certain
switch under two circumstances:

1: if the room temperature is below 18 degrees C
2: if we want to fast freeze stuff

What actually does this switch do? Why should the fridge need a switch
for different room temperatures? And why would the switch for having a
cold room (in which your fridge should need to work less hard) be the
same one for freezing stuff quickly (for which it should work harder)?

Daniele

"D.M. Procida" wrote:

The instruction guide for our Bosch fridge tells us to press a certain
switch under two circumstances:

1: if the room temperature is below 18 degrees C
2: if we want to fast freeze stuff

What actually does this switch do? Why should the fridge need a switch
for different room temperatures? And why would the switch for having a
cold room (in which your fridge should need to work less hard) be the
same one for freezing stuff quickly (for which it should work harder)?

Daniele

Hi Danielle,


I expect this is a single compressor fridge freezer. It is widely know
(especially in this NG) that this type of machine has a design compromise
whereby if the room temperature is too low, the compressor does not switch
on and the freezer defrosts.

Do not let the house temperature drop too low , for example if you go away
for a few days in the winter months otherwise you will return to a freezer
full of thawed goods. Also never install these types in the garage for the
same reason.

hth

Bob

And why would the switch for having a cold room (in which your fridge
should need to work less hard) be the same one for freezing stuff
quickly (for which it should work harder)?

The fast freeze switch makes the compressor come on more, which makes the
freezer part colder. If you install in a cold location, the thermostat,
which is in the fridge part, may never come on, so it needs a bit of a boost
to get it to work. You'll probably find your fridge starts freezing, though.
This type of fridge freezer is not really suitable for installation in
anything other than a heated habitable room.

Christian.

Bob Minchin wrote:
"D.M. Procida" wrote:
The instruction guide for our Bosch fridge tells us to press
a certain switch under two circumstances:

1: if the room temperature is below 18 degrees C
2: if we want to fast freeze stuff

What actually does this switch do? Why should the fridge need
a switch for different room temperatures? And why would the
switch for having a cold room (in which your fridge should
need to work less hard) be the same one for freezing stuff
quickly (for which it should work harder)?

I expect this is a single compressor fridge freezer. It is
widely know (especially in this NG) that this type of machine
has a design compromise whereby if the room temperature is
too low, the compressor does not switch on and the freezer
defrosts.

You can get freezers with two compressors? I didn't know. I am
considering buying a large chest freezer which will be sited
in an unheated outside garage. What should I look for?


__________________________________________________ ______________
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com

D.M. Procida wrote:

for different room temperatures? And why would the switch for having a
cold room (in which your fridge should need to work less hard) be the
same one for freezing stuff quickly (for which it should work harder)?

There was a thing on Watchdog a while back about fridges/freezers not
working in cold rooms. Hmmm, I can't remember exactly why they don't work,
but they need a warmish room to do their thing.

Cheers
Tim

In article ,
jerrybuilt wrote:

I expect this is a single compressor fridge freezer. It is
widely know (especially in this NG) that this type of machine
has a design compromise whereby if the room temperature is
too low, the compressor does not switch on and the freezer
defrosts.

You can get freezers with two compressors? I didn't know. I am
considering buying a large chest freezer which will be sited
in an unheated outside garage. What should I look for?

*Fridge freezer*. One for the fridge, one for the freezer.

-- Richard
--
Spam filter: to mail me from a .com/.net site, put my surname in the headers.

FreeBSD rules!

jerrybuilt wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:
"D.M. Procida" wrote:
The instruction guide for our Bosch fridge tells us to press
a certain switch under two circumstances:

1: if the room temperature is below 18 degrees C
2: if we want to fast freeze stuff

What actually does this switch do? Why should the fridge need
a switch for different room temperatures? And why would the
switch for having a cold room (in which your fridge should
need to work less hard) be the same one for freezing stuff
quickly (for which it should work harder)?

I expect this is a single compressor fridge freezer. It is
widely know (especially in this NG) that this type of machine
has a design compromise whereby if the room temperature is
too low, the compressor does not switch on and the freezer
defrosts.

You can get freezers with two compressors? I didn't know. I am
considering buying a large chest freezer which will be sited
in an unheated outside garage. What should I look for?


__________________________________________________ ______________
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com




No Freezers only have one compressor. Some expensive, properly designed
fridge freezer have two but most FF have one compressor and arrange
through a design compromise to share the cooling circuit between one
cabinet at about +3 degrees and the other at -21 degrees .

If you are looking for a freezer for use in a garage I advise to make
sure the base (outside) is made of metal. Some have a form of foilcoated
cardboard for the base. This in time becomes saturated with condensation
from the garage floor which usually has no damp proof membrane and then
lets water into the foam.this decreases the insulation value hence more
condensation and starts rust on the cooling pipes buried in the foam.
after a few years, all the gas leaks out.

There are three ways chest freezers get rid of their excess heat.
1) Grill or plate with tubes welded on at the back of the freezer (no
specific name that I'm aware of)
2) By a fan blowing air though a little radiator (fan assisted)
3) through the front, ends and back surface of the cabinet (Skin cooled)

Type one is most common and works Ok

Fan assisted ones are good in the garage as they force some air
circulation.

The skin cooled ones are my favourite for garages as the outside of the
case is warmed regularly and this dries off the demon condensation which
the other two types do not and which tend to rust the outer casing. This
is only cosmetic but soon looks crap.
However, the running costs of skin types can be dearer or need thicker
insulation (less room inside for a given exterior size) as the inside of
the freezer is at -21 degrees and the outside can get to 50 or 60 degree
wehn the compressor runs.

Whichever type you buy, I suggest your stand it off the floor by a
couple of bricks height and dont push it back against a wall which
allows plenty of air to circulate around.

All based on 25 years plus of freezers in outbuildings.

Regards

Bob

In article ,
Bob Minchin writes:

No Freezers only have one compressor. Some expensive, properly designed
fridge freezer have two but most FF have one compressor and arrange
through a design compromise to share the cooling circuit between one
cabinet at about +3 degrees and the other at -21 degrees .

I think this info might be a bit out of date. There are now
FF's with a single compressor but still with independant
control using a solenoid valve which allows the refrigerent
to be directed.

The older (and possibly current cheaper) units rely only on
a thermostat in the fridge, and based on a temperature of
something like 14C ambient minimum, they know the compressor
will operate on sufficient duty cycle to keep freezer cold
enough. If the ambient drops below the minimum for that FF,
then the fridge won't need as much cooling, and the freezer
will start to warm up.

The skin cooled ones are my favourite for garages as the outside of the
case is warmed regularly and this dries off the demon condensation which
the other two types do not and which tend to rust the outer casing. This
is only cosmetic but soon looks crap.

Can also drip in the floor, and depending on the covering,
damage it. Uprights often have anti-condensation heaters
around the door seal, where most cold leak out ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
Bob Minchin writes:

No Freezers only have one compressor. Some expensive, properly designed
fridge freezer have two but most FF have one compressor and arrange
through a design compromise to share the cooling circuit between one
cabinet at about +3 degrees and the other at -21 degrees .


I think this info might be a bit out of date. There are now
FF's with a single compressor but still with independant
control using a solenoid valve which allows the refrigerent
to be directed.

The older (and possibly current cheaper) units rely only on
a thermostat in the fridge, and based on a temperature of
something like 14C ambient minimum, they know the compressor
will operate on sufficient duty cycle to keep freezer cold
enough. If the ambient drops below the minimum for that FF,
then the fridge won't need as much cooling, and the freezer
will start to warm up.


The skin cooled ones are my favourite for garages as the outside of the
case is warmed regularly and this dries off the demon condensation which
the other two types do not and which tend to rust the outer casing. This
is only cosmetic but soon looks crap.


Can also drip in the floor, and depending on the covering,
damage it. Uprights often have anti-condensation heaters
around the door seal, where most cold leak out ;-)


Hmm! Is this why the edge of my ff is warm to the touch in summer? front
edge of side wall, but different levels of heat depending on where you
put your hand in a vertical line up the corner (if that makes sense)?

Velvet

In article ,
Velvet writes:
Hmm! Is this why the edge of my ff is warm to the touch in summer? front
edge of side wall, but different levels of heat depending on where you
put your hand in a vertical line up the corner (if that makes sense)?

Yes. Sometimes it's an electric element (possibly with a switch),
and sometimes it's one of the warm refrigerent pipes routed
just under the surface.

--
Andrew Gabriel