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#1
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running pex in a basement replumb job
I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed (It
has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, then right angle and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. Then I would tap off with 1/2 inch pex to the various fixtures between the joists. Question: I would have to cross 2 five inch furnace hot air pipes when I drill thru the joists. Will that be a problem with pex being near or touching the furnace pipes ? If so what is the best way to separate them Thanks for any info Ray |
#2
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On Feb 1, 10:14*pm, "Ray" wrote:
I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed *(It has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, *then * right angle *and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. Then I would tap off with 1/2 inch pex *to the various fixtures between the joists. Question: I would have to cross 2 five inch furnace hot air pipes when I drill thru the joists. * * * * * Will that be a problem with pex being near or touching the furnace pipes ? If so what is the best way to separate them Thanks for any info Ray Ray- Hot air produced by a forced air furnace is cooler than hot water so the "hot air pipes" (hot air ducts), as you call them, won't be a problem. If you can touch something comfortably than PEX will be fine. The furnace flue is an entirely different story. One of the benefits of PEX is the material is much cheaper than copper and much easier to run & make connections. I would suggest doing some research on PEX installation, consider doing a "home run" installation. Unless you're going to finish the basement ceiling, there is no need drill through the joists. If you do drill, keep the hole out of the middle 1/3 of the span & drill in the middle of the joist depth. Also stay away from the extreme ends of the joists. A "main & branch" system is certainly ok but a home run system has lots of advantages. check out http://www.huduser.org/portal/public...sign_guide.pdf it should answer all of your questions also http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/200...-05-11_PEX.PDF cheers Bob |
#3
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On Wed, 1 Feb 2012 22:14:51 -0800, "Ray"
wrote: I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed (It has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, then right angle and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. Then I would tap off with 1/2 inch pex to the various fixtures between the joists. Question: I would have to cross 2 five inch furnace hot air pipes when I drill thru the joists. Will that be a problem with pex being near or touching the furnace pipes ? If so what is the best way to separate them Thanks for any info Ray "...Keep the Vanex PEX tubing a MINIMUM of 12” vertically and 6” horizontally from sources of high heat such as recessed light fixtures, gas flue vents, heating appliances, or electric motors. Forced air heating ducts are not generally considered sources of high heat.." Some additional guidelines he http://www.abouthomes.info/files/0525%206518.pdf |
#4
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running pex in a basement replumb job
Hot air produced by a forced air furnace is cooler than hot water so the "hot air pipes" (hot air ducts), as you call them, won't be a problem. If you can touch something comfortably than PEX will be fine. The furnace flue is an entirely different story. One of the benefits of PEX is the material is much cheaper than copper and much easier to run & make connections. I would suggest doing some research on PEX installation, consider doing a "home run" installation. Unless you're going to finish the basement ceiling, there is no need drill through the joists. If you do drill, keep the hole out of the middle 1/3 of the span & drill in the middle of the joist depth. Also stay away from the extreme ends of the joists. A "main & branch" system is certainly ok but a home run system has lots of advantages. check out http://www.huduser.org/portal/public...sign_guide.pdf it should answer all of your questions also http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/200...-05-11_PEX.PDF cheers Bob .. Thanks for the information, it is very helpful... I considered a home run system, even bought some manifolds from Home Depot, but couldnt find a logical and accessable place to locate them. I am going to finish the ceiling, so I would like to drill the joists, but 2 retired plumbers at Home Depot advised agains running the Pex near the heating ducts so I thought I would check the concensus here. Thanks Ray |
#5
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On 2/2/2012 12:14 AM, Ray wrote:
I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed (It has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, then right angle and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. Then I would tap off with 1/2 inch pex to the various fixtures between the joists. Question: I would have to cross 2 five inch furnace hot air pipes when I drill thru the joists. Will that be a problem with pex being near or touching the furnace pipes ? If so what is the best way to separate them Thanks for any info Ray just nail them up to the underside of the joists with the one nail hangars. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#6
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On Feb 2, 1:01*pm, "Ray" wrote:
Hot air produced by a forced air furnace is cooler than hot water so the "hot air pipes" (hot air ducts), as you call them, won't be a problem. If you can touch something comfortably than PEX will be fine. The furnace flue is an entirely different story. One of the benefits of PEX is the material is much cheaper *than copper and *much easier to run & make connections. I would suggest doing some research on PEX installation, consider doing a "home run" installation. Unless you're going to finish the basement ceiling, there is no need drill through the joists. If you do drill, keep the hole out of the middle 1/3 of the span & drill in the middle of the joist depth. Also stay away from the extreme ends of the joists. A "main & branch" system is certainly ok but a home run system has lots of advantages. check outhttp://www.huduser.org/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf it should answer all of your questions also http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/200...aking/document... cheers Bob . Thanks for the information, it is very helpful... *I considered a home run system, even bought some manifolds from Home Depot, but couldnt find a logical and accessable place to locate them. I am going to finish the ceiling, so I would like to drill the joists, *but 2 retired plumbers at Home Depot advised agains running the Pex near the heating ducts so I thought I would check the concensus here. Thanks Ray Good point.... not having a suitable place for the manifolds does pose a problem. My house has a small utility basement for he furnace & water heater. New homes that use PEX have a place desing & built for the manifolds, re-pipes are a different story. In places where the PEX might chafe / be subject to abrasion, I run it thru a short length of flexible (non metallic) water tight conduit. cheers Bob |
#7
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On Feb 2, 2:30*am, DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 1, 10:14*pm, "Ray" wrote: I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed *(It has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, *then * right angle *and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. |
#8
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running pex in a basement replumb job
On Feb 3, 5:06*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 2, 2:30*am, DD_BobK wrote: On Feb 1, 10:14*pm, "Ray" wrote: I bought an old house which needs to have the water supplies replumbed *(It has the old style butyl pipe, and I am refinishing the basement) I intend to run 3/4" Pex from the entrance (about half way down the 40 ft length of the house) in about 15 feet to where most of the fixtures are located, then right angle turn and run about 16 feet drilling thru the 2x10 joists, *then * right angle *and run about 6 feet to the hot water tank.. Then run the 3/4 hot water pipe back parallel to the just run cold water. Then I would tap off with 1/2 inch pex *to the various fixtures between the joists. Question: I would have to cross 2 five inch furnace hot air pipes when I drill thru the joists. * * * * * Will that be a problem with pex being near or touching the furnace pipes ? If so what is the best way to separate them Thanks for any info Ray Ray- Hot air produced by a forced air furnace is cooler than hot water so the "hot air pipes" (hot air ducts), as you call them, won't be a problem. If you can touch something comfortably than PEX will be fine. The furnace flue is an entirely different story. One of the benefits of PEX is the material is much cheaper *than copper and *much easier to run & make connections. I would suggest doing some research on PEX installation, consider doing a "home run" installation. Unless you're going to finish the basement ceiling, there is no need drill through the joists. If you do drill, keep the hole out of the middle 1/3 of the span & drill in the middle of the joist depth. Also stay away from the extreme ends of the joists. A "main & branch" system is certainly ok but a home run system has lots of advantages. check outhttp://www.huduser.org/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf it should answer all of your questions also http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/200...aking/document... cheers Bob- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - One of the diadvantages of a home run system is that you can get a lot of pipe crowding in one place where you locate the manifold. No reason you cant have two or more manifolds though. That is probably the way I will do my wifes house. A manifold for the kitchen and laundry and another for the 3 baths. That way I will only have two pipes running the full length of the house. Jimmie Good points..... the only two home run systems I did involved only two baths, a kitchen & a laundry room. Plus the houses were fairly compact. Larger homes or spread out layouts (ranchers) can definitely benefit from remote manifolds, which are "mini" home runs. I previously owned a rancher that was going to be exactly as you suggest; kitchen / laundry manifold and bathrooms' manifold but I sold it before it got re-piped. cheers Bob |
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