[John]

Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Thanks

John

[dpb]

John wrote:
....
I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.
....

Piece o' cake...

Wood match sticks (w/ any carpenters' glue optional). Taper a couple a
little and drive enough in to fill the holes solid. Will prevent the
hole from collapsing...

The alternative is to try to make a single tapered plug but that's
tougher to shape than simply drive in the smaller pieces one at a time.

--

[Jim Elbrecht]

On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 11:49:47 -0800 (PST), John
wrote:

-snip-
I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy).
-snip-

I'd drill a 1/4" hole into the old screw-holes, lube a 1/4" dowel with
carpenters glue & drive it in. Chisel flush and proceed.

Jim

[HeyBub[_3_]]

John wrote:
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Add additional seals - the kind that fit ON the door frame rather than
within it.

[TimR[_2_]]

On Jan 20, 3:22*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 11:49:47 -0800 (PST), John

wrote:

-snip-I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". *What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy).

-snip-

I'd drill a 1/4" hole into the old screw-holes, lube a 1/4" dowel with
carpenters glue & drive it in. * * *Chisel flush and proceed.

Jim

Or, drill 3/8 inch holes, fill with epoxy/glassbead paste, drill pilot
holes.

[RicodJour]

On Jan 20, 2:49*pm, John wrote:
Hi there. *I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. *I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: *The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. *The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. *The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. *That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". *What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). *I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). *The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Keep it simple. Golf tees are a surprisingly nice fit for hinge
holes.

R

[John Grabowski]

Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.


*I was just wondering if the door stops could be removed and trimmed or
relocated to make the existing door location work. In addition to what has
been said about plugging the old holes I would suggest that you predrill the
new holes with a small diameter bit and use very long screws that will go
into the frame behind the door frame.

[DGDevin]

"dpb" wrote in message
...

Piece o' cake...

Wood match sticks (w/ any carpenters' glue optional). Taper a couple a
little and drive enough in to fill the holes solid. Will prevent the hole
from collapsing...

The alternative is to try to make a single tapered plug but that's tougher
to shape than simply drive in the smaller pieces one at a time.

When I've done that I've drilled out the screw holes and glued in a piece of
hardwood dowel to make darn sure the weight of the door wasn't going to
cause problems. I'd rather take a few minutes to do that than rely on some
matchsticks.

[RicodJour]

On Jan 20, 3:48*pm, "DGDevin" wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message

Piece o' cake...

Wood match sticks (w/ any carpenters' glue optional). *Taper a couple a
little and drive enough in to fill the holes solid. *Will prevent the hole
from collapsing...

The alternative is to try to make a single tapered plug but that's tougher
to shape than simply drive in the smaller pieces one at a time.

When I've done that I've drilled out the screw holes and glued in a piece of
hardwood dowel to make darn sure the weight of the door wasn't going to
cause problems. *I'd rather take a few minutes to do that than rely on some
matchsticks.

Use toothpicks then - the tapered tip with the square body picks are
the best.

Seriously, gluing in any wood that fits tightly, or any oriented wood
fibers will work. The hinge mortise is taking almost all of the
weight. If there are door weight concerns, then longer screws
extending into the framing is the way to go.

R

[dpb]

DGDevin wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
...

Piece o' cake...

Wood match sticks (w/ any carpenters' glue optional). Taper a couple a
little and drive enough in to fill the holes solid. Will prevent the hole
from collapsing...

The alternative is to try to make a single tapered plug but that's tougher
to shape than simply drive in the smaller pieces one at a time.

When I've done that I've drilled out the screw holes and glued in a piece of
hardwood dowel to make darn sure the weight of the door wasn't going to
cause problems. I'd rather take a few minutes to do that than rely on some
matchsticks.

Waste of time. The end grain of the dowel isn't any better than the end
grain of the matchsticks if you fill the hole solid. It's the same fix
only more time consuming and (in this case) making the patch onto the
area the new hole will be instead of besides it.

The only thing that's better would be to cut in another piece w/
matching grain direction which is again, more effort than the extra gain.

--

[dadiOH[_3_]]

John wrote:
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy).

Use the tooth picks and glue, not to worry about the weight as it is carried
by the mortices...the screws are just to keep the hinge leafs *in* the
mortices.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[dadiOH[_3_]]

dpb wrote:
DGDevin wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
...

Piece o' cake...

Wood match sticks (w/ any carpenters' glue optional). Taper a
couple a little and drive enough in to fill the holes solid. Will
prevent the hole from collapsing...

The alternative is to try to make a single tapered plug but that's
tougher to shape than simply drive in the smaller pieces one at a
time.

When I've done that I've drilled out the screw holes and glued in a
piece of hardwood dowel to make darn sure the weight of the door
wasn't going to cause problems. I'd rather take a few minutes to do
that than rely on some matchsticks.

Waste of time. The end grain of the dowel isn't any better than the
end grain of the matchsticks if you fill the hole solid.

It is if the hole is drilled perpendicular to the plane of the screws.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[willshak]

John wrote the following:
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Thanks

John


I love the suggestions so far; glue matchsticks in the holes. Response:
No that won't work.
Glue a dowel in the holes. Response: Nope
Glue golf tees in the holes. No Response yet.
Cut out the sections and replace with wooden patches.
Drill bigger holes. Fill with paste.
Move the door frame stops.

Here is my suggestion:
Leave the door where it is and move the whole house 1/4" forward. :-)

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

[RicodJour]

On Jan 20, 5:02*pm, willshak wrote:

I love the suggestions so far; glue matchsticks in the holes. Response:
No that won't work.
Glue a dowel in the holes. Response: Nope
Glue golf tees in the holes. No Response yet.
Cut out the sections and replace with wooden patches.
Drill bigger holes. Fill with paste.
Move the door frame stops.

Here is my suggestion:
Leave the door where it is and move the whole house 1/4" forward. :-)

Couldn't he just move?

R

[dpb]

dadiOH wrote:
It is if the hole is drilled perpendicular to the plane of the screws.

And how would you propose to do that effectively, pray???

--

[professorpaul]

The dowel routine is by far the best. I've used it in gunsmithing/
stock issues where I needed to remove such things as a butt plate and
replace it with a rubber recoil pad. You won't see the dowels, as they
will be under the hinges. You do need an hour or so for the glue to
set up, of course. Wood glue, or epoxy... your choice.

[Stormin Mormon]

I'd use a different type of door seals.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"John" wrote in message
...
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems
with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as
I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The
front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the
hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and
eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door
away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the
seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm
afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting
holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may
cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting
holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white
glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option
is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have
done
something like this in the past.

Thanks

John

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Jan 20, 1:49*pm, John wrote:
Hi there. *I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. *I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: *The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. *The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. *The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. *That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". *What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). *I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). *The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Thanks

John

I lean toward using multiple toothpicks and wood glue. Coat the
toothpicks with gluse and keep jamming them into the holes until you
have to use a hammer to fully seat them. Then wait overnight (while
keeping anyone from using the door since it is now not hinged) and
then drill new pilot holes (1/8" maximum) in the correct location.
I have done this maybe 6 or 8 times when rehanging exterior and
interior doors in various hoses I have owned or helped repair.

[dadiOH[_3_]]

dpb wrote:
dadiOH wrote:

It is if the hole is drilled perpendicular to the plane of the
screws.

And how would you propose to do that effectively, pray???

1. Put bit in drill

2. Drill hole. If insufficient area of jamb is exposed, remove casing then
drill.

3. Glue in dowel

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[Tony[_19_]]

RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 20, 2:49 pm, John wrote:
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Keep it simple. Golf tees are a surprisingly nice fit for hinge
holes.

But don't use the painted ones.

[Red Green]

"dadiOH" wrote in
:

dpb wrote:
dadiOH wrote:

It is if the hole is drilled perpendicular to the plane of the
screws.

And how would you propose to do that effectively, pray???

1. Put bit in drill

2. Drill hole. If insufficient area of jamb is exposed, remove casing
then drill.

3. Glue in dowel


I'd modify this to:

Remove and replace one screw at a time in all hinges. Look for one long
screw long screw in each hinge. All hinges may not have a long screw but
there should be one in at least two hinges if I recall. These are usually
supplied with doors and are meant to go through the jamb and into the
rough opening studs for strength and alignment.

- Get a HARDWOOD dowel.
- Drill test hole in scrap smaller than dowel and make sure dowel fits
snug.
- Drill hole to fill.
- Glue and pound in dowel as far as it will go.
For those long screw holes be sure to get it into the stud as well.
- Let it dry overnight. You don't want it soft to any extent or it can
pull out the drilled dowel when screwed.

[Tony[_19_]]

hr(bob) wrote:
On Jan 20, 1:49 pm, John wrote:
Hi there. I bought a house, and we noticed we had problems with
draftiness from the front door. I bought new seals, and as I was
installing them I saw the root cause of the problem: The front door
hung about a 1/4" to far forward. The result is that on the hinge
side of the door, the seal is being compressed to much, and eventually
fails. The compression also pushes the far side of the door away from
the seals, so that when it gets cold, the magnets on the seal won't
grip. That was last winter.

I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy). I could fill the original mounting holes
with something, but I'm at a loss as to what to use (white glue
shrinks, putty's to weak, maybe epoxy?). The other option is to
replace the actual door frame, but I'd like to avoid that.

Anyway, just looking for any advice anyone who might have done
something like this in the past.

Thanks

John

I lean toward using multiple toothpicks and wood glue. Coat the
toothpicks with gluse and keep jamming them into the holes until you
have to use a hammer to fully seat them. Then wait overnight (while
keeping anyone from using the door since it is now not hinged) and
then drill new pilot holes (1/8" maximum) in the correct location.
I have done this maybe 6 or 8 times when rehanging exterior and
interior doors in various hoses I have owned or helped repair.

I normally split a little wood off a nearby 2x , glue and hammer it in.
More than one if I see fit. We all know that a properly glued joint
is stronger than the wood itself.

[terry]

On Jan 20, 5:22*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 11:49:47 -0800 (PST), John

wrote:

-snip-I now have to move my hinges back about 1/4". *What I'm afraid of is
that to do that, I would have to drill the new mounting holes very
close to the old mounting holes, an I'm worried this may cause a
failure (door is heavy).

-snip-

I'd drill a 1/4" hole into the old screw-holes, lube a 1/4" dowel with
carpenters glue & drive it in. * * *Chisel flush and proceed.

Jim

In addition to plugging and drilling new holes, maybe use some longer
screws?. Especially if there is something solid in there beyond the
door box for the ends/tips of those longer screws to grip into. Screw
right through the door jamb if necessary. Longer screws at the top,
for example, might help support the outward leverage there, due to the
weight of the hanging door!

Some heavier doors have extra hinges! Our wooden front and back doors
have three sets of hinges each.

While in Malta couple of years ago noticed that many doors had 'four'
sets of hinges! IIRC one rather massive church door had five hinges.

Maybe one could reposition door temporarily, remove it again and then
add another hinge/s, before reinstalling it permanently.

Would n't worry me if I had a continuous hinge all the way down the
door. Except it would probably be a bu**er to install.
Suggest; do anything logical to support the weight of the door at the
slightly repositioned hinges. Think outside the box (door box that
is!) :-)

We had a similar problem btw. Someone had used the wrong hinges when
replacing a door and there were air gaps. So we bought a couple of
different type hinges with different screw mounting hole spacings and
reinstalled the door using the most suitable hinges. Door now closes
evenly all the way round.

Good luck.