[smk17]

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

[smk17]

On Sep 21, 3:23*pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

I should say I'm not on city water, live out in the country with my
own well.

[Eric in North TX]

On Sep 21, 2:23*pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

I sounds more like the check valve has failed, letting the pressure
bleed off back into the well. Perhaps the high pressure killed it. The
only other thing I can think of is a major leak, but you would notice
that, even if it was under ground, it would always be wet in a spot.

[elgee]

"smk17" wrote in message
...
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks
Sounds like your tank is waterlogged. In other words, there is not enough
air space in your tank to hold pressure until a reasonable amount of water
has been used. Since there is little air space, it takes a small amount of
water use to drop the pressure from 60 lbs. to 40 lbs. Drain the tank and
restart the system. that should restore the proper air/water balance.
elgy

[Steve Barker[_5_]]

smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

you need more air and less water in your tank.

[Hustlin' Hank]

On Sep 21, 3:23�pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

I agree that the problem is the air charge in the tank. Google
"bladder type water tank" to find out how to check it for a ruptured
bladder.

Hank

[Stormin Mormon]

Rapid cycling suggest the air chamber (bladder, Extrol,
whatever) is out of air. He's right, about reinflating the
air chamber.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

If it only does it when you are using water it isn't the
check valve,
it is the bladder tank.
Push in the stem on tire valve on top and I bet water comes
out.
Drain the system down and blow air in it with the water
valve open.
You will be pushing out a lot of water, when air starts
coming out,
close the valve and bring it up to 40 This makes it better
for a
while, A new bladder tank is in your future.

[Harry K]

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

[smk17]

On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:
On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:





Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

[smk17]

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:





On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:





On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.

[Stormin Mormon]

For a while. sounds like it will be a continuing issue. If
you're handy, you can probably inflate the tank every couple
weeks with a shot of air, and delay the repair forever.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"smk17" wrote in message
...

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but
you will have to
do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high
dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if
I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi,
adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks
everyone.

[Tony Hwang]

smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks
Hmmm
Your problem is more likely bladder tank, not the switch.
Think logic.(IBM motto)

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k
wrote:

On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:





On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K
Who said it filled with air? I didn't. Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.

[Harry K]

On Sep 23, 7:02*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k





wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just how could it? The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120
psi than it would be normally.

Harry K

[stan]

On Sep 23, 12:02*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k





wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely
and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe
an informational question for personal edification? Please.

Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our
first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of
that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each
with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.

Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well
tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and
municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for
some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now
been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!

The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of
crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc.
Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as
new!

But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up
to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far
as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't
even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned on this news
group.

So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system?
Such as the ones we have used?

TIA for any informational comments.

[Harry K]

On Sep 23, 7:45*am, harry k wrote:
On Sep 23, 7:02*am, wrote:





On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just how could it? *The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120
psi than it would be normally.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oooppss, (slaps forhead)I was looking at it 'upside down' - yes it
could have blown it.

Harry K

[stan]

On Sep 23, 12:56*pm, harry k wrote:
On Sep 23, 7:45*am, harry k wrote:





On Sep 23, 7:02*am, wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just how could it? *The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120
psi than it would be normally.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oooppss, (slaps forhead)I was looking at it 'upside down' - yes it
could have blown it.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I was ging to say it would depend which 'side' you were on. Of the
bladder that is !!!!!
Sorry, attempt at bad joke :-)

[Harry K]

On Sep 23, 7:48*am, stan wrote:
On Sep 23, 12:02*pm, wrote:





On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely
and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe
an informational question for personal edification? Please.

Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our
first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of
that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each
with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.

Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well
tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and
municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for
some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now
been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!

The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of
crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc.
Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as
new!

But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up
to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far
as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't
even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned *on this news
group.

So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system?
Such as the ones we have used?

TIA for any informational comments.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The 'non bladder' is very old technology and were a nuisance to
maintain. There were 'snifter' and 'float valves' to automatically
keep the tank filled but they failed often. Then the pre-charge had
to be adjusted regularly, every month or two and that required draiing
the tank.

I don't know if new ones are even available any more. In any case,
the cost of a new bladder tank is not a high-ticket item. I for sure,
after maintaining both types for over 30 years now, would never
install a non-bladder one.

Harry K

[stan]

On Sep 23, 1:02*pm, harry k wrote:
On Sep 23, 7:48*am, stan wrote:





On Sep 23, 12:02*pm, wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely
and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe
an informational question for personal edification? Please.

Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our
first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of
that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each
with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.

Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well
tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and
municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for
some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now
been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!

The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of
crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc.
Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as
new!

But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up
to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far
as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't
even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned *on this news
group.

So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system?
Such as the ones we have used?

TIA for any informational comments.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The 'non bladder' is very old technology and were a nuisance to
maintain. * *There were 'snifter' and 'float valves' to automatically
keep the tank filled but they failed often. *Then the pre-charge had
to be adjusted regularly, every month or two and that required draiing
the tank.

I don't know if new ones are even available any more. *In any case,
the cost of a new bladder tank is not a high-ticket item. I for sure,
after maintaining both types for over 30 years now, would never
install a non-bladder one.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the reply althogh AFIK we didn't have any 'sniffer valve'
failures in some 19 years, a waterlogged tank I think once?
Interesting thing was the Duro would self prime but the second, no
deeper had to be primed to draw up water. Very little trouble with
either one.
Cheers.

[Tony[_19_]]

stan wrote:
On Sep 23, 12:02 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k





wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29 am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:
On Sep 22, 7:55 am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02 am, harry k wrote:
On Sep 21, 12:23 pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.
So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.
Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.
I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.
Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?
Thanks
As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.
Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.
You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.
Harry K
Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.
Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.
If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.
Harry K
Who said it filled with air? I didn't. Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely
and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe
an informational question for personal edification? Please.

Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our
first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of
that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each
with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.

Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well
tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and
municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for
some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now
been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!

The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of
crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc.
Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as
new!

But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up
to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far
as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't
even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned on this news
group.

So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system?
Such as the ones we have used?

As a child we had a plain simple tank. When the pump would start short
cycling we turned of the supply and drained all the water out of the
tank. (I was doing it by the time I was 10.) Then with the tank full
of air turned on the pump again and with the pressure of the water, the
air in the tank was pressurized. The only problem is that the air in
the tank starts to dissolve into the water, until most of the air is
gone and it starts to short cycle again. That's the reason for the
bladder, to separate the air from the water.

[Tony[_19_]]

stan wrote:
On Sep 23, 12:02 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k





wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29 am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:
On Sep 22, 7:55 am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02 am, harry k wrote:
On Sep 21, 12:23 pm, smk17 wrote:
Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.
So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.
Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.
I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.
Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?
Thanks
As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.
Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.
You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.
Harry K
Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.
Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.
If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.
Harry K
Who said it filled with air? I didn't. Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Now that the cause to the OPs question has probably been found? Namely
and most likely a ruptured or leaking bladder problem.......... maybe
an informational question for personal edification? Please.

Since 1960 until around 1979 we used two shallow well systems. In our
first house was a Duro (possibly still in use with fourth owner of
that property) and the second as below, a MacDonald. One third HP each
with venturi-jet adaptable pump plus attached tank.

Recently had to scrap the pressure tank of the second shallow well
tank plus pump system. This second one had been unused since water and
municipal water and sewer were installed. The unit had been used for
some nine years (1970 to 1979) or so before being retired and had now
been sitting under the bench for some 30+ years!

The pump was fine; we took it apart and cleaned out a little bit of
crud. The impeller was fine; motor and pressure switch OK etc.
Reassembled using stainless bolts. Little bit of a repaint; good as
new!

But the tank had numerous low pressure leaks, found by hooking it up
to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner and using soap solution. But as far
as one could see no evidence of a bladder of any kind. In fact wasn't
even aware of such a thing until have seen it mentioned on this news
group.

So is/are there a simpler (cheaper) models not using a bladder system?
Such as the ones we have used?

As a child we had a plain simple tank. When the pump would start short
cycling we turned of the supply and drained all the water out of the
tank. (I was doing it by the time I was 10.) Then with the tank full
of air turned on the pump again and with the pressure of the water, the
air in the tank was pressurized. The only problem is that the air in
the tank starts to dissolve into the water, until most of the air is
gone and it starts to short cycle again. That's the reason for the
bladder, to separate the air from the water.