On Sep 23, 12:56*pm, harry k wrote:
On Sep 23, 7:45*am, harry k wrote:





On Sep 23, 7:02*am, wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:10:18 -0700 (PDT), harry k

wrote:
On Sep 22, 10:29*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:13:05 -0700 (PDT), smk17
wrote:

On Sep 22, 7:55*am, smk17 wrote:
On Sep 22, 12:02*am, harry k wrote:

On Sep 21, 12:23*pm, smk17 wrote:

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump
because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at
40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet
flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then
it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back
on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to
below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this
is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working
perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/
on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding
tank?

Thanks

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. *If a non-
bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder
type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will
destroy itself. *The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the
pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to
do so every month or so. *New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get
it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted
the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. *The
bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi
before you fixed the pressure switch. *If you don't replace it, expect
to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. *It is fastened at the
bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Who said it filled with air? *I didn't. *Per the original poster, the
water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. *That
*may* have ruptured the bladder.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just how could it? *The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120
psi than it would be normally.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oooppss, (slaps forhead)I was looking at it 'upside down' - yes it
could have blown it.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I was ging to say it would depend which 'side' you were on. Of the
bladder that is !!!!!
Sorry, attempt at bad joke :-)