[John Locke[_2_]]

I've got an older model Kenmore washing machine that has run great
until last week. It is a model 110.82374110 (non-suds). The machine
fills normally, but when agitation starts, the machine is draining the
tub (you can see it start coming out the drain hose as soon as the
agitation starts). This causes agitation to stop after a few seconds
while the water level is restored. Then more agitation/pumping,
stopping, filling, etc.

I examined the underside of the machine and don't see anything
obviously out of place. All the wiring is intact and connected. I see
two 'cam bars' driven by magnetic solenoids. One bar is labeled 'cam,
bar spin' and the other is labeled 'cam, agitator & pump'.

I can't get a view of things during operation. I'm tempted to replace
the magnet assembly (mounts both solenoid electromagnets).

Can anyone point me towards repairing this old friend?

Thanks in advance!

[Don Young]

"John Locke" wrote in message
...
I've got an older model Kenmore washing machine that has run great
until last week. It is a model 110.82374110 (non-suds). The machine
fills normally, but when agitation starts, the machine is draining the
tub (you can see it start coming out the drain hose as soon as the
agitation starts). This causes agitation to stop after a few seconds
while the water level is restored. Then more agitation/pumping,
stopping, filling, etc.

I examined the underside of the machine and don't see anything
obviously out of place. All the wiring is intact and connected. I see
two 'cam bars' driven by magnetic solenoids. One bar is labeled 'cam,
bar spin' and the other is labeled 'cam, agitator & pump'.

I can't get a view of things during operation. I'm tempted to replace
the magnet assembly (mounts both solenoid electromagnets).

Can anyone point me towards repairing this old friend?

Thanks in advance!
I can't help you directly but would advise you not to start changing parts
before you have diagnosed the problem. I once had a GE that did this because
a little rubber flapper valve in the pump was broken. Either get a manual or
some good advice as to what actually causes your symptom. Sometime the
people at the appliance parts place are very knowledgeable (and sometimes
not).

Don Young

[John Locke[_3_]]

On Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:02:58 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:

I can't help you directly but would advise you not to start changing parts
before you have diagnosed the problem. I once had a GE that did this because
a little rubber flapper valve in the pump was broken. Either get a manual or
some good advice as to what actually causes your symptom. Sometime the
people at the appliance parts place are very knowledgeable (and sometimes
not).

Don Young


I should've mentioned that the timer seems to be working correctly. I
have the logic table for the cam switch, and everything looks to
switch correctly. That's what took me to the bottom of the machine for
an examination. I have the exploded parts diagram and all the
paperwork that came with the washer.

I posted a query in this forum in hopes of "getting some good advice
as to what actually causes my problem".

It appears to be down to the pump itself (pumping all the time) or the
'cam bar' that actuates the pump valve.

Anyone? Bueller?

[1D1OT]

"John Locke" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:02:58 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:

I can't help you directly but would advise you not to start changing parts
before you have diagnosed the problem. I once had a GE that did this
because
a little rubber flapper valve in the pump was broken. Either get a manual
or
some good advice as to what actually causes your symptom. Sometime the
people at the appliance parts place are very knowledgeable (and sometimes
not).

Don Young


I should've mentioned that the timer seems to be working correctly. I
have the logic table for the cam switch, and everything looks to
switch correctly. That's what took me to the bottom of the machine for
an examination. I have the exploded parts diagram and all the
paperwork that came with the washer.

I posted a query in this forum in hopes of "getting some good advice
as to what actually causes my problem".

It appears to be down to the pump itself (pumping all the time) or the
'cam bar' that actuates the pump valve.

Had the same identical problem with my 12 yo Kenmore. I found a used
appliance dealer and he let me strip out a similar rusted-out model. First,
I replaced the "wig-wag" assembly (with the solenoids). No joy. Then the cam
assembly. That fixed it, and now it runs fine in its 14th year. I did
replace the pump 6 months later because of a leak.
Note: it's a daunting job if you've never done it before.

[John Locke[_3_]]

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 06:49:19 -0500, "1D1OT" wrote:


Had the same identical problem with my 12 yo Kenmore. I found a used
appliance dealer and he let me strip out a similar rusted-out model. First,
I replaced the "wig-wag" assembly (with the solenoids). No joy. Then the cam
assembly. That fixed it, and now it runs fine in its 14th year. I did
replace the pump 6 months later because of a leak.
Note: it's a daunting job if you've never done it before.


Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Both bars appear to fit through thin slots across the top of the gear
box. I can't tell if it is designed that way or if the entire assembly
has slipped down and the cam bars have rubbed these slots in the top
of the gear box.

[1D1OT]

"John Locke" wrote in message
...
Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Both bars appear to fit through thin slots across the top of the gear
box. I can't tell if it is designed that way or if the entire assembly
has slipped down and the cam bars have rubbed these slots in the top
of the gear box.

Yes, very close, but I don't remember slots being worn in the gearbox. If
the slots are 'worn' into the gearbox the bars/slots would be kinda shiny.

[1D1OT]

"John Locke" wrote in message
...

Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Check this link:

http://tinyurl.com/aerv5r

Also - the bars are actually 'shift levers' for the transmission and pump.

[1D1OT]

"John Locke" wrote in message
...

Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Another view:
http://tinyurl.com/ajvsbf

Also, Kenmore washers of that era are virtually identical to and made by RCA
Whirlpool.

[John Locke[_3_]]

The bars don't really look shiny in that area, and there is grease on
the casing where the bars pass, so maybe it is normal.

Looks like I'm going to have to have another look under there now that
I have some more information.

Thanks for the link. That is a much better look than the exploded
diagram. My problem seems to be with the 'agitate' cam bar; it's
attached to the pump valve.


On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 08:29:09 -0500, "1D1OT" wrote:


"John Locke" wrote in message
.. .

Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Another view:
http://tinyurl.com/ajvsbf

Also, Kenmore washers of that era are virtually identical to and made by RCA
Whirlpool.

[John Locke[_3_]]

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 08:29:09 -0500, "1D1OT" wrote:


"John Locke" wrote in message
.. .

Since you've done this job before...
do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Another view:
http://tinyurl.com/ajvsbf

Also, Kenmore washers of that era are virtually identical to and made by RCA
Whirlpool.


Thanks for all your help. I hope I can impose on you one more time...

I watched the wig-wag during operations, and both solenoids appear to
be cycling when they should and engaging the cam bars. The 'agitate
and pump' cam bar shifts when the washer cycles from 'agitate' to
'drain' mode, and the 'spin' cam bar shifts the washer properly into
spin cycle.

From this I surmise that I should order a new pump assembly.
Your opinion sir?

I posted pictures available at
http://www.idletime.com/WasherOperation.html

Thanks for all the assistance.