I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
and the only thing I need is a fence.

So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Mike

wrote:
....
So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else?

....

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Naw, no opinions here. Heh.

I find for regular use a couple of c-clamps and a jointed board works
really really well. Stuff coming off the BS needs clean-up anyway;
having some fancy fence that is super-precise and sings and dances is
total waste, IMO. YMMV.

PK

I would look at what this guy did...

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Ken is VERY creative.


wrote:

I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
and the only thing I need is a fence.

So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Mike

wrote in message
...


I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet...
Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?

Is there improved dust collection over the stock model? Anything besides the
2 1/2" hose connection under the table?




Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

I went with the OEM fence for my JWBS-14. It's OK and does the job.
Obviously, mounting is pretty easy. There's a scale, but it's definiately a
"guess, saw, measure, tap/tap, saw measure, tap/tap" fence. The
construction components seem solid. It locks down well. I don't use the
plastic resaw guide/insert.

If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try Duginske's
(sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.

"patrick conroy" wrote in
:

snip

If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try
Duginske's (sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.


And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use the c-
clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at all,
but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Spend the cash on a selection of quality blades.

Patriarch

wrote in message
...
I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
and the only thing I need is a fence.

So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Mike

Mike, I just added a 6" tall x 20" scrap to the existing Jet (18") fence.
Works great.
I found the re-sawing attachments, those that utilize a round or arched face
a pain. If your saw is set up properly, a straight tall fence will suffice
just fine. Other than that, most bandsaw operations don't require a fence
at all.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
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My bandsaw fence consists of a piece of 2x4, jointed square, with a
piece of 3/4" birch plywood screwed onto the 2" face. It gets clamped
to the table. Seems to work fine.

I rarely use the band saw fence. You might just as well clamp a
straight edge to the table. Often, I found that using the fence does
not guarantee a straight cut on the band saw.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 08:31:31 -0500, wrote:

I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
and the only thing I need is a fence.

So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Mike

"patrick conroy" writes:

Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?

I installed the Iturra brushes on my Jet, and it was VERY easy.
Like - a minute or two. I think I needed to drill a small pilot hole.
Well worth the $6.

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

writes:

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

I compared the old Duginski FastTrak fence and the Kreg, and bought
the Kreg. The Kreg can be adjusted for blade drift, and for alignment
to the blade. It can also be used in a "low-profile" position when
you need the guides close to the able surface, and near the Fence.

Installation needed an allen wrench with an odd size, which I didn't have.
Other than that, it was trivial.

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...

And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use the
c-
clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at all,
but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Be careful!
Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy!

"patrick conroy" wrote in
:
snip
And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use
the
c-
clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at
all, but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Be careful!
Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy!


Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact, I was
just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner turning
tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of really nice
P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite Kanukistani tool
dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter set' tools dull on the
same project.

And then there's the 'good lathe' question, yet to be answered...

Patriarch

Pat...

Yes, Jet listened to the complaints and they tweaked this model good.
It has a easy to use tension release lever, cast iron wheels, 1¼ HP
motor, and a 4" standard dust port.

The package deal I bought came with a mobile base, an Iturra tension
spring, the 6" factory riser installed, and the Iturra brush
installed. On top of that I got five new timberwolf blades with it,
so I have a full range of blades right up to 3/4", and wheel shims in
case I need them.

It runs real nice, but I may put a link belt on it just to make it
even smoother. So you can see... the only thing I could put on it is
a magnetic light and a fence... but we'll see what the consensus is.
I think I'd rather buy a fence and use it, than spend a weekend making
one plus spending the money on the track.

Mike

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:37:16 GMT, "patrick conroy"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .


I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet...
Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?

Is there improved dust collection over the stock model? Anything besides the
2 1/2" hose connection under the table?




Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

I went with the OEM fence for my JWBS-14. It's OK and does the job.
Obviously, mounting is pretty easy. There's a scale, but it's definiately a
"guess, saw, measure, tap/tap, saw measure, tap/tap" fence. The
construction components seem solid. It locks down well. I don't use the
plastic resaw guide/insert.

If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try Duginske's
(sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.

Well, I used to like the one made by Woodpeck.com, but they said they
were redesigning it and took it off the market...that was a couple of
years ago! My close second choice is the the fence made by
Mulecab.com.

Layne
ps, usual disclaimers apply.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 08:31:31 -0500, wrote:

I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
and the only thing I need is a fence.

So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.

Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
15".

Mike

Mike - was that a local deal you picked up ?

jim

wrote in message
...
Pat...

Yes, Jet listened to the complaints and they tweaked this model good.
It has a easy to use tension release lever, cast iron wheels, 1¼ HP
motor, and a 4" standard dust port.

The package deal I bought came with a mobile base, an Iturra tension
spring, the 6" factory riser installed, and the Iturra brush
installed. On top of that I got five new timberwolf blades with it,
so I have a full range of blades right up to 3/4", and wheel shims in
case I need them.

It runs real nice, but I may put a link belt on it just to make it
even smoother. So you can see... the only thing I could put on it is
a magnetic light and a fence... but we'll see what the consensus is.
I think I'd rather buy a fence and use it, than spend a weekend making
one plus spending the money on the track.

Mike

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:37:16 GMT, "patrick conroy"
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 22:06:29 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
spake:

"patrick conroy" wrote in
:
snip
And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use
the
c-
clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at
all, but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Be careful!
Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy!


Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact, I was
just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner turning
tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of really nice
P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite Kanukistani tool
dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter set' tools dull on the
same project.

I have a feeling that all chisels, even the good and expensive jobs,
would need honing during a long session with dried hardwoods. In terms
of wood-feet cut, an hour at the lathe is like a week in the shop with
a hand chisel.


And then there's the 'good lathe' question, yet to be answered...

Oh, the $79.95 HF special, of course. [Unless you find a pristine(?)
example of a Powr-Kraft lathe like I did for $15.]


Added Bonus Link:

Today's safety URL is entitled "How To Cut Your Thumb Off."
http://www.mini-lathe.com/thumb.htm


================================================== ======
Was that an African + http://www.diversify.com
or European Swallow? + Gourmet Web Applications
================================================== ======

Larry Jaques wrote in
:
snip
Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact,
I was just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner
turning tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of
really nice P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite
Kanukistani tool dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter
set' tools dull on the same project.

I have a feeling that all chisels, even the good and expensive jobs,
would need honing during a long session with dried hardwoods. In terms
of wood-feet cut, an hour at the lathe is like a week in the shop with
a hand chisel.


There is a story, possibly apocryphal, of the Japanese master, who re-honed
his plane blade after each, nearly perfect cut.

I am after a different operating plan.

Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place makes my
skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were reached almost
immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any price. It would
either need to be stored, sold, given away or otherwise disposed of in
short order. Then where are the savings?

Patriarch

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 10:35:50 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
spake:

There is a story, possibly apocryphal, of the Japanese master, who re-honed
his plane blade after each, nearly perfect cut.

A Zen anal-retentive? What a curious combo!


I am after a different operating plan.

Grok that. We all want to sharpen once and work from then on without
ever having to hone again. Unfortunately, nature has a different idea.


Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.


HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place makes my
skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were reached almost
immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any price. It would
either need to be stored, sold, given away or otherwise disposed of in
short order. Then where are the savings?

Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
little Nova or Oneway. See if I care.

--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development

"Larry Jaques" wrote
Patriarch spake:
Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?

"Don" wrote in
nk.net:

"Larry Jaques" wrote
Patriarch spake:
Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To
cut turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast
track fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully
(yeah, right) put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?


Use, wear, abuse, cutting green wood for turning blanks, the phase angle of
the moon, the autocompensation feature of the saw for operator
attitude/patience. It's not that big a deal, and easily adjusted back to
the line scribed on the table. If it hasn't been worn/cleaned off.

It's no big deal. Only for resaw is this bandsaw ever asked to be a real
precision cutting tool, and then, not so much recently. It's a Jet 16, and
it's really a 'tweener saw. Bigger than a 14", but not really much bigger.
It's certainly not the Laguna or MiniMax I had in my plans, when the wife
decided she needed a new quilting machine. And she did, so the bandsaw
purchase was scaled back to more rational levels.

Patriarch

Larry Jaques wrote in
:
snip

HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place
makes my skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were
reached almost immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any
price. It would either need to be stored, sold, given away or
otherwise disposed of in short order. Then where are the savings?

Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
little Nova or Oneway. See if I care.


Thank you for permission, kind sir. The wife agrees, too. Nice how that
works out.

The consensus among my analog woodworking friends seems to be that the
sweet spot for those who primarily turn, and not much else, that the
Powermatic 3520a is a great lathe for the substantial money. Most of these
folks sell at least some of their turned work.

For those who also do cabinetry, boxes and furniture, and so need more room
in the shop, the Nova 3000 family seems to fit quite well. Capable,
flexible, and more modest in size, but expandable as needed.

I don't forsee needing the Powermatic. Or anything in the Oneway range.

Patriarch

Jim...

Yes... I guess patience is a virtue and will be rewarded. I started
out thinking about a 12" BS, ordered a Hitachi at Lowes that never
showed up until yesterday! I of course had canceled. I missed out on
two locals, a sweet Delta platinum that was also loaded and a nice Jet
that was on eBay (local) where I was outbid in the last 3 seconds by
$5. So I decided to wait, posted a WTB on woodnet, and had two
offers, one for a Delta and a one for the Jet.

The minute I saw the Jet I said yes.

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 12:20:34 GMT, "Jim Bailey"
wrote:

Mike - was that a local deal you picked up ?

jim

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 19:38:47 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
spake:

Larry Jaques wrote in
Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
little Nova or Oneway. See if I care.

Thank you for permission, kind sir. The wife agrees, too. Nice how that
works out.

Jewelcome. Send my commission via check or Paypal, please.

--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 00:35:57 GMT, "Don" wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote
Patriarch spake:
Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?

As I understand it, you have a flat blade running on a set of rounded wheels and
tires... the slight bend this produces causes drift...
I've noticed that tracking, blade size and murphys law can change the drift...
(if ya get my drift *groan* )

As I learned from Charlie's site, an easy method is to find a chunk of something
with a known square edge, scribe a straight line down the middle of it, square
to/with the good edge, and cut along the line until you're half way though the
stock (or about 6 or 7").. hold on to the stock and turn off the saw..

You'll see that (usually) the square edge of the stock is not square with your
miter slot or fence... scribe a line on the table along the square edge and set
your fence to that line/angle..

Disclaimer: I've had a band saw for a few months and use it mostly for bowl
blanks.. if you hurt yourself or ruin wood/saw blades using the above comments,
feel free to sue for the same amount that you paid for the advice..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 00:35:57 GMT, "Don"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote
Patriarch spake:
Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah,
right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?

As I understand it, you have a flat blade running on a set of rounded
wheels and
tires... the slight bend this produces causes drift...
I've noticed that tracking, blade size and murphys law can change the
drift...
(if ya get my drift *groan* )


You got it wrong. The reason the blade leads (or doesn't) is the blade, not
the wheels on the saw, where improper centering of blade on crown, or moving
crown can cause "surge" as it rotates.

Think of how far from those wheels you're cutting, and how little the blade
needs to spring to compensate.

Now consider how a bit of imbalance in the set/sharpness/deburring, etc. of
the teeth will cause greater drag on one side, right in the cut, where it
counts.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 13:18:38 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 00:35:57 GMT, "Don"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote
Patriarch spake:
Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah,
right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?

As I understand it, you have a flat blade running on a set of rounded
wheels and
tires... the slight bend this produces causes drift...
I've noticed that tracking, blade size and murphys law can change the
drift...
(if ya get my drift *groan* )


You got it wrong. The reason the blade leads (or doesn't) is the blade, not
the wheels on the saw, where improper centering of blade on crown, or moving
crown can cause "surge" as it rotates.

Think of how far from those wheels you're cutting, and how little the blade
needs to spring to compensate.

Now consider how a bit of imbalance in the set/sharpness/deburring, etc. of
the teeth will cause greater drag on one side, right in the cut, where it
counts.

That makes sense to me, George, but I figured that Charlie knew a lot more than
I did..
BTW, I made my own version of his table and fence and it works great..
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing