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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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Ok,
so I admit it. I messed up. I had the nerve to build a workshop in my basement. Actually, all I needed to do was put up two partition walls, to make a complete wood shop. Everything was fine. Until it came to selling my house. I failed inspection because the sill plates on my walls aren't pressure treated - a moisture barrier is required. I know that If I had layed roofing paper, or sheet metal, down on the floor where the sill was going before putting the wall down, it would also have sufficed to serve as a moisture barrier - my township has told me so. The problem is i used liquid nails to affix the sill to the cement. SO here's the question: Does anyone know of a way that I can put roofing paper/sheet metal/etc...underneath the sill in its present condition? I'm perfectly willing to undo the liquid nail portion of things, but I'd like to avoid ripping the wall down, if possible. If there was a way to remove the contact betweent the liquid nails and the cement, and then slip the roofing paper between, that would be great. So I'm all ears. Any thoughts? - Thanks, Todd |
#2
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Todd wrote:
Ok, so I admit it. I messed up. I had the nerve to build a workshop in my basement. Actually, all I needed to do was put up two partition walls, to make a complete wood shop. Everything was fine. Until it came to selling my house. I failed inspection because the sill plates on my walls aren't pressure treated - a moisture barrier is required. I know that If I had layed roofing paper, or sheet metal, down on the floor where the sill was going before putting the wall down, it would also have sufficed to serve as a moisture barrier - my township has told me so. This inspection... Commissioned by the buyer, looking to make sure there are no drastic problems and that full disclosure is made? They seem to have nailed you on a technicality but does it really become a deal killer? I mean you can still sell the house and they are free to buy it but, obviously, it means there's some expense involved if the buyer is not willing to overlook it. Do you have a problem with moisture in the basement? If the buyer were me AND it "concerned" me, I'd probably just beat you up a bit on the sales price, close on the house and then tear down the damn wall(s) and enlarge the shop reusing the salvaged 2 x's and buying 3 or 4 2x4x12 pressure treated for the new sill plates, letting you pay for my expanded shop AND a couple of power toolsg Cut them a deal. Here's $500 in case you have a water problem and decide to do something with it. These aren't structural walls are they? As for getting the moisture barrier beneath a wall such as you described? Well, that's why I suggested a bit of negotiation on the price. I'm guessing you'd have better luck coming up with a sure-fire plan for lasting peace in the Middle Eastg |
#3
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![]() "Todd" wrote in message I failed inspection because the sill plates on my walls aren't pressure treated - a moisture barrier is required. I know that If I had layed roofing paper, or sheet metal, down on the floor where the sill was going before putting the wall down, it would also have sufficed to serve as a moisture barrier - my township has told me so. Easiest solution is to find a new buyer. Is it a code requrement? I doubt they are structural walls so weakinging is not a problem. Cut a strip of paper about 1/4" wide and lay it in front of hte sill plate. just tuck it under ![]() |
#4
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Todd" wrote in message I failed inspection because the sill plates on my walls aren't pressure treated - a moisture barrier is required. I know that If I had layed Easiest solution is to find a new buyer. Is it a code requrement? I doubt they are structural walls so weakinging is not a problem. Cut a strip of paper about 1/4" wide and lay it in front of hte sill plate. just tuck it under ![]() Best solution yet! LOL! Make sure you fix it in place with some Gorilla Glue and make sure you clean up afterwards with some acetone! |
#5
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So I found a solution to the above situation. What I originally needed
was a pressure treated sill. Since I had already liquid-nailed the sill down, I figured that my best bet was to somehow break the liquidnail bond, and slide roofing paper, or sheet metal underneath. Instead, at the suggestion of my father in law, I replaced the sill with pressure treated lumber. Fortunately for me, the insides of the wall were exposed. (This is my workshop, after all.) So all that was required was to pull out the screws attaching the 2x4s to the sill, and to knock the heck out of the sill from the other side of the wall. The sheet rock on the outside of the wall held the 2x4s in place quite nicely. It was kind of surreal, to see all of these 2x4s seemingly hanging in mid air, with nothing to support them. Anyway, I was able to put a like-sized pressured treated 2x4 under each wall, and reattach. The only casualties were the small holes at the bottom of the sheetrock on the outside of the walls. These are easily repaired. Anyway, so thats the solution. A bit of a kloodge, I admit, but it was better than ripping both walls down and starting from scratch. - Todd |
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