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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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How to fill wood gap?
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple. Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly the surface? thanks, dwhite |
#2
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I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice. About $2.50 for a small can Will "Dan White" wrote in message ... Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple. Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly the surface? thanks, dwhite |
#3
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I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice. Geez, I'd be careful about using any acetone-based products. If you eat too much of it you might get liver damage. |
#4
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mp wrote: I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice. Geez, I'd be careful about using any acetone-based products. If you eat too much of it you might get liver damage. Just don't get it on your liver. |
#5
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Dan White wrote:
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple. Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly the surface? thanks, dwhite You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better than putty. Done it myself a few times. Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay. http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html -- Will Occasional Techno-geek |
#6
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"WillR" wrote in message . .. You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better than putty. Done it myself a few times. Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay. http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add decorative features. |
#7
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On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 13:10:10 GMT, "Leon" wrote:
"WillR" wrote in message ... You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better than putty. Done it myself a few times. Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay. http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add decorative features. ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"... not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#8
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mac davis wrote:
=20 ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"... not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g* =20 SSSSHHHHHH! You guys! You'll get us all in trouble!!!! =20 =20 mac =20 Please remove splinters before emailing --=20 Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20 who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw |
#9
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Dan White wrote: Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple. Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly the surface? thanks, dwhite Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than acetone. -Phil Crow |
#10
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OK, thanks for all the responses. Tho' the inlay idea is nice, it is a bit
more elaborate than what I wanted to get into. I picked up some plain ole' "natural" color wood filler. Looks like it came out OK. thanks for the help, dwhite wrote in message oups.com... Dan White wrote: Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple. Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly the surface? thanks, dwhite Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than acetone. -Phil Crow |
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