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Dan White March 16th 05 01:20 AM

How to fill wood gap?
 
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly
the surface?

thanks,
dwhite



NorthIdahoWWer March 16th 05 02:03 AM

I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice.
About $2.50 for a small can

Will

"Dan White" wrote in message
...
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat

and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches).

I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the

maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I

poly
the surface?

thanks,
dwhite





mp March 16th 05 04:04 AM

I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying, sands nice.


Geez, I'd be careful about using any acetone-based products. If you eat too
much of it you might get liver damage.



Fred March 16th 05 11:28 AM


mp wrote:
I use PL Fix brand of wood putty... made from "wood flour" and comes

in a
variety of colors... acetone based so it's fairly fast drying,

sands nice.

Geez, I'd be careful about using any acetone-based products. If you

eat too
much of it you might get liver damage.



Just don't get it on your liver.


WillR March 16th 05 12:45 PM

Dan White wrote:
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25 inches). I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before I poly
the surface?

thanks,
dwhite


You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks
better than putty.

Done it myself a few times.

Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html



--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

[email protected] March 16th 05 01:08 PM


Dan White wrote:
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely

flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25

inches). I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but

I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the

maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before

I poly
the surface?

thanks,
dwhite


Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers
of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time
yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the
same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than
acetone.

-Phil Crow


Leon March 16th 05 01:10 PM


"WillR" wrote in message
. ..

You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better
than putty.

Done it myself a few times.

Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html



Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add
decorative features.



mac davis March 16th 05 04:19 PM

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 13:10:10 GMT, "Leon" wrote:


"WillR" wrote in message
...

You could also route a small strip and do an inlay -- glued. Looks better
than putty.

Done it myself a few times.

Look at the first picture and click on it -- did it for exactly that
reason. The joint on the tray looked terrible -- so I did an inlay.
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/p...furniture.html



Yup, this method of hiding makes it look like you did it on purpose to add
decorative features.

ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"...
not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

WillR March 16th 05 04:25 PM

mac davis wrote:
=20
ahh... the famous "I meant to do that"...
not that I've ever done that, of course.. *g*
=20


SSSSHHHHHH! You guys! You'll get us all in trouble!!!!


=20
=20
mac
=20
Please remove splinters before emailing



--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Dan White March 17th 05 03:15 AM

OK, thanks for all the responses. Tho' the inlay idea is nice, it is a bit
more elaborate than what I wanted to get into. I picked up some plain ole'
"natural" color wood filler. Looks like it came out OK.

thanks for the help,
dwhite

wrote in message
oups.com...

Dan White wrote:
Hi. I joined two maple countertops but one edge wasn't completely

flat and
there is a small gap across much of the joined section (about 25

inches). I
don't need a perfect match so I'm not too worried about the gap, but

I'd
like to fill it with something that won't look too different from the

maple.
Is there anything good at HD that I could use to fill that gap before

I poly
the surface?

thanks,
dwhite


Dunno if you can get it at the Borg, but Franklin International, makers
of Titebond, make a wood filler that I used myself for the first time
yesterday. I like it. I'm sure that all the brands are about the
same, though the Titebond smells like lacquer thinner, rather than
acetone.

-Phil Crow





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