All the ones I put up had nuts, bolts and washers to hold the 2X4's =
together.

--=20

PDQ
--
=20
"Martin" wrote in message =
. com...
| What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF =
(say,=20
| 3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?
|=20
| The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of =
furniture=20
| for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat =
pieces for=20
| crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated=20
| assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).
|=20
| I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building =
pieces=20
| that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to =
help=20
| figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to =
be=20
| built.
|=20
| One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt =
with=20
| the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of =
precision=20
| is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.
|=20
| I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be =
surface=20
| mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken =
down=20
| quickly.
|=20
| I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.
|=20
| Thanks,
|=20
| -Martin
|=20
|

What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF (say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building pieces
that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to help
figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to be
built.

One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt with
the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of precision
is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.

Thanks,

-Martin

"Martin" wrote in message
. com...
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

For knock down stuff like you're talking about, I wouldn't use MDF. The
stuff is termite puke with unknown substances holding it all together. It's
heavy - and that will not work well for this application, and it is not
durable stuff. The operative word in "knock down" is "knock". MDF does not
stand up to knocks.

3/4" might be too heavy, no matter what the chosen material. That's a lot
of weight and bulk. Look at the commercial stuff and see what they use.
The commercial stuff holds up to use and shipping very well.


The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces
for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).


One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt
with
the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of precision
is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.

Not that much precision. Any carpenter should be able to achieve that
degree of precision with no difficulty.


I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.


Sure - L brackets would work and they are commonly available at hardware
stores. More work to put together and tear down, but they'd work. I'd try
to avoid anything that requires screws going into the wood. The holes just
won't stand up to repeated assembly and disassembly. That's what makes the
cam lock nuts or the likes a better solution. You're going into metal with
a bolt instead of wood with a screw. Take a look at what the commercial
products use. You'll be able to find the same kind of fasteners they use
somewhere on the net.

Good luck,

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

Sure - L brackets would work and they are commonly available at hardware
stores. More work to put together and tear down, but they'd work. I'd
try
to avoid anything that requires screws going into the wood. The holes
just
won't stand up to repeated assembly and disassembly.

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. By "clever L bracket" I meant some sort of a
split L bracket. Each half would be permanently affixed to the
corresponding piece of wood and the mating/unmating would simply be
metal-to-metal, no need to repeatedly deal with screws going into wood.

One interesting idea I got while browsing the Rockler catalog was to use
bed-rail brackets. I may get one and see what they look like. I am tring
to keep the various pieces as flat as possible for crating/shippping
purposes. So far it seems that the bolt+cylindrical nut may be the best
approach.

Thanks,

-Martin

"Martin" wrote in message
. com...
Mike Marlow wrote:


Sorry, I wasn't very clear. By "clever L bracket" I meant some sort of a
split L bracket. Each half would be permanently affixed to the
corresponding piece of wood and the mating/unmating would simply be
metal-to-metal, no need to repeatedly deal with screws going into wood.

No - you said it well enough. I just missed it. I have to bet an internet
search would turn up something.


One interesting idea I got while browsing the Rockler catalog was to use
bed-rail brackets. I may get one and see what they look like. I am tring
to keep the various pieces as flat as possible for crating/shippping
purposes. So far it seems that the bolt+cylindrical nut may be the best
approach.

Bed rails may work - they lack rigidity in the structure, but by the time
you tie it all together, it may be rigid enough. Think I'd rather do the
clever L bracket idea though.

--

-Mike-

Martin wrote:
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF (say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

Loose-pin hinges, possibly with stop blocks to keep the angle between
the pieces correct.

One very important point. Make sure the pieces are small enough to be
easily handled by one person.

--RC

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building pieces
that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to help
figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to be
built.

One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt with
the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of precision
is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.

Thanks,

-Martin

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Martin" wrote in message
. com...

Mike Marlow wrote:



Sorry, I wasn't very clear. By "clever L bracket" I meant some sort of a
split L bracket. Each half would be permanently affixed to the
corresponding piece of wood and the mating/unmating would simply be
metal-to-metal, no need to repeatedly deal with screws going into wood.


No - you said it well enough. I just missed it. I have to bet an internet
search would turn up something.


One interesting idea I got while browsing the Rockler catalog was to use
bed-rail brackets. I may get one and see what they look like. I am tring
to keep the various pieces as flat as possible for crating/shippping
purposes. So far it seems that the bolt+cylindrical nut may be the best
approach.


Bed rails may work - they lack rigidity in the structure, but by the time
you tie it all together, it may be rigid enough. Think I'd rather do the
clever L bracket idea though.

If you want something like bed rails, get some Gorilla shelving. Very
sturdy, easy to assemble in just about any shape and not too expensive.

--RC

There are specific metal fasteners made to do exactly what you want to.
I have seen then in several catalogs, but I can't tell you
specifically which ones. Look in Rockler and Woodcraft to start. Or
the internet search for knockdown fasteners would be a good idea too.


Good Luck.

Jeff

"Martin" wrote in message

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat
pieces for crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

Having set up and taken down a few tradeshow booths, the last material I'd
use is MDF. Too heavy to handle and it chips too easily for the repeated
use. Plywood is my choice. You will also be paying more for shipping cost
to each show.



I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

If you were to use 1/2" material, the #3070 would be a good choice. Maybe
there is a 3/4" available elsewhere.

http://www.reliablehardware.com/pdf/...Clamps_etc.pdf

Martin wrote:

What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of
plywood or MDF (say, 3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for
repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various
pieces of furniture for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs
to be torn down to flat pieces for crating and shipping. The
pieces must also survive repeated assemble-disassemble cycles
(to be good for more than one show).

Martin...

Here are two (possibly) useful resource pages:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40352&cat=3,41306,41319
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&cat=3,43715&p=43716

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

In article ,
"Martin" wrote:

[snipperectomy]

I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.




Aluminum tubing and stretched canvas. No MDF...too heavy and easily
damaged as many Wreckers have stated. If flat surfaces with rigidity are
a must, gator boards make for nice displays. Foam-core with taped edges
looks nice.
Aluminum honeycomb, nicer yet, but expensive.

I do not know where those displays are going, but my experience has been
that 'your' spot is always the opposite side of the building away from
the parking lot/loading dock.

In article ,
Martin wrote:
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF (say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

Authoritative answer: "It depends".

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

"Size matters" A *LOT*.


How _big_ a space you have, how big the 'furniture' needs to be,
how *small* it has to disassemble to.

what kind of _weight_ you can tolerate -- which correlates directly to
shipping costs.

Unless you've got some *really* exotic needs, or are only going to be
using at shows where you (the company) do the actual transport *yourselves*
i.e. *your* vehicle, not sending by a shipping company. you are a *LOT*
better off looking at some of the stuff that is *made* for the purpose.

The savings in shipping charges, due to advanced technology materials and
construction, can pay for the 'high priced stuff' *amazingly* quickly.
I mean like 5 or 6 shows, if they're several hundred miles away from 'home'.

There are fairly complete booths that can travel with the sales staff, on
the airplane, as simple 'checked' baggage. I've seen a complete 12x20
set-up, that packs down to two duffel-bag sizes containers. around 50 lb
each.


That said, one of the simplest, most reliable, methods of 'attachment'
for repeated put-up/take-down, is the use of standard *hinges*. "Loose
Pin" hinges, to be precise. Pull the pin, the pieces come apart. Line
the pieces up, and insert the pin, and they're locked together. Add
diagonal bracing for stability.

Another approach is "Tee nuts" in the material, and bolt-down "corner braces"
and/or 'angle brackets'.


One of the other things to consider is tools and 'skill level' required
for the put-up/take-down. And the amount of time involved. If you're
going to 'big city' venues, you probably will *NOT* be allowed to do the
unpacking/assembly/disassembly/packing work yourself. Union contracts
will get in the way -- you'll have to use union labor for the task.
Which means a need for comprehensive instructions for put-up/take-down.

Excellent links! Thank you very much.

The Invis system is really trick. I may just have to get the starter kit
simply because of the cool factor.

-Martin


"mare" lid.com wrote in
message
news:1gta3tv.87c35paptlq8N%mare*Remove*All*0f*This ...
Martin wrote:

What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces
for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building
pieces
that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to
help
figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to be
built.

One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt
with
the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of
precision
is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

The IMHO nicest way: Lamello Invis
http://www.lamello.com/english/invis_e/start_e.htm

Not cheap however...

Other knock down harware suitable for MDF are metal biscuits
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=43253

and these Knock-Down Fittings more or less the same as IKEA uses on it's
kitchens.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40049

If you need to assemble and disassemble I would use plywood instead of
MDF. MDF is heavy and chips easily during transport.

--
mare

I like the taper connectors, simple and effective.

-Martin


"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
news
Martin wrote:

What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of
plywood or MDF (say, 3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for
repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various
pieces of furniture for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs
to be torn down to flat pieces for crating and shipping. The
pieces must also survive repeated assemble-disassemble cycles
(to be good for more than one show).

Martin...

Here are two (possibly) useful resource pages:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40352&cat=3,41306,41319
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&cat=3,43715&p=43716

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Thanks for the advise. Considering all the options at the moment.

-Martin


"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Martin wrote:
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

Authoritative answer: "It depends".

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces
for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

"Size matters" A *LOT*.


How _big_ a space you have, how big the 'furniture' needs to be,
how *small* it has to disassemble to.

what kind of _weight_ you can tolerate -- which correlates directly to
shipping costs.

Unless you've got some *really* exotic needs, or are only going to be
using at shows where you (the company) do the actual transport
*yourselves*
i.e. *your* vehicle, not sending by a shipping company. you are a *LOT*
better off looking at some of the stuff that is *made* for the purpose.

The savings in shipping charges, due to advanced technology materials and
construction, can pay for the 'high priced stuff' *amazingly* quickly.
I mean like 5 or 6 shows, if they're several hundred miles away from
'home'.

There are fairly complete booths that can travel with the sales staff, on
the airplane, as simple 'checked' baggage. I've seen a complete 12x20
set-up, that packs down to two duffel-bag sizes containers. around 50 lb
each.


That said, one of the simplest, most reliable, methods of 'attachment'
for repeated put-up/take-down, is the use of standard *hinges*. "Loose
Pin" hinges, to be precise. Pull the pin, the pieces come apart. Line
the pieces up, and insert the pin, and they're locked together. Add
diagonal bracing for stability.

Another approach is "Tee nuts" in the material, and bolt-down "corner
braces"
and/or 'angle brackets'.


One of the other things to consider is tools and 'skill level' required
for the put-up/take-down. And the amount of time involved. If you're
going to 'big city' venues, you probably will *NOT* be allowed to do the
unpacking/assembly/disassembly/packing work yourself. Union contracts
will get in the way -- you'll have to use union labor for the task.
Which means a need for comprehensive instructions for put-up/take-down.

This is also interesting:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...7&LARGEVIEW=ON

I'm using the much larger version of this (by Southco) for the booth walls.
I didn't know they were available this small.

-Martin

Have you ever considered door hinges? Remove the pins for easy takedown or
fanfold.

Jon
"Martin" wrote in message
om...
This is also interesting:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...7&LARGEVIEW=ON

I'm using the much larger version of this (by Southco) for the booth
walls. I didn't know they were available this small.

-Martin

Martin wrote:

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.

One important consideration is the size of the horizontal piece.
______________

By "clever L bracket" I meant some sort
of a split L bracket. Each half would be permanently affixed to the
corresponding piece of wood and the mating/unmating would simply be
metal-to-metal, no need to repeatedly deal with screws going into
wood.

One handy thing that could work fine if there isn't tons of torque are
the metal keyhole pieces.

Recessed into one piece and held by screws...round head screw in the
other piece slides into the keyhole part (you can use several in each
piece). They are inexpensive, easy to install, easy to break down and
should be reasonably durable. You often see them used in "Scandinavian"
case goods.

They could be improved by using a properly sized roundhead *bolt*
(rather than screw) into a threaded insert.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Martin" wrote in
. com:

What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say, 3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture for a tradeshow booth. snip

One other consideration is that, if possible, the hardware should be
readily available locally to where you are shipping. In my trade show
experience, parts go missing, get bent or broken, are loaded in the box
that _didn't_ get shipped, require some tool that is only available with a
three week order lead time, ....

Murphy hates trade show booth managers, with a passion.

In my experience, if there is any way that you can put it together with
1/4"-20 carriage bolts, fender washers and nuts or inserts, then do it.
You can buy all the tools & parts at any hardware store or BORG, anywhere
in North America, almost any day or night of the year.

Don't forget to plan for power distribution, lighting, cooling, voice and
data connectivity, and secure material storage, while you're at it.
DAMHIKT.

Patriarch

I went over to my local Rockler store and zeroed in on their 6" tapered
connector:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...3&filter=28878

Cheap, low-tech, easy to install, assemble and disassemble.

Thanks for all the replies to my original post. I know I'll be adding a
couple of interesting gadgets to the toybox because of them! :-)

-Martin


"Martin" wrote in message
. com...
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say, 3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat
pieces for crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building pieces
that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to help
figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to be
built.

One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt
with the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of
precision is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a
jig.

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.

Thanks,

-Martin

My mom does craft shows.
I can tell you that 73 year little ladies (et.al.) do not want to fool with
heavy plywood. You can buy inexpensive folding aluminum tables for $20. I
doubt you can produce something cheaper or lighter. Plastic ones are
popping up now too, although more expensive but can handle as much weight as
wood.
However, pinned hinges, latches, etc. are common for breakdown tables and
boxes.
It also depends on what the vendor is selling. In mom's case, it's baskets.
Trees are light and easy to transport.
Mark

"Martin" wrote in message
. com...
What's the best hardware to use when join two pieces of plywood or MDF
(say,
3/4 inch thick) at 90 degrees for repeated assembly-disassembly?

The context of this is that I'm trying to design various pieces of
furniture
for a tradeshow booth. Everything needs to be torn down to flat pieces
for
crating and shipping. The pieces must also survive repeated
assemble-disassemble cycles (to be good for more than one show).

I'm having a local carpenter do the work, but he's used to building pieces
that are assembled once and left alone for many years. I'm trying to help
figure out how to make it easy to assemble and tear-down the pieces to be
built.

One approach that's common on assemble-it-yourself furniture is a bolt
with
the little cylindrical nut. This works, but a certain degree of precision
is required in fabrication. May not be too bad if you make a jig.

I wonder if there's a clever L bracket type approach that can be surface
mounted and provide a strong joint that can be assembled and taken down
quickly.

I'd greatly appreciate any links or ideas you may be able to offer.

Thanks,

-Martin