Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was going to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going to rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the top and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width, this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was going to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going to rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the top and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width, this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

hhmmmmm. Around here 84 lumber is called 42 Lumber, cuz they usually have
only half of what you need, or sometimes 168 Lumber, cuz it takes them twice
as long to deliver than promised! Congrats on your success, post some
pics! --dave


"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:Ba4Xd.92169$g16.80173@trndny08...
Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was going
to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going to
rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the top
and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width, this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

That was my thought - I've been trying to learn a bit about fininshing
(flexner book, web, here, etc) and I was under the impression that that
polyurethane sealed the wood - a top coat. The stain penetrates after that ?
I'm getting confused.

jim

"David" wrote in message
...
Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be
finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was going
to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going to
rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the top
and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width,
this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm
using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the
red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

Yup! and it works perfect! I'll post a picture tomorrow.



"David" wrote in message
...
Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be
finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was going
to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going to
rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the top
and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width,
this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm
using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the
red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

Well I've made tons of furniture. all by the book. Maple is a soft wood, and
what I think is happening is that the coat of Polyshade as like a
pre-finish. after it dries, I use a foam brush for the red oak. When that
dries I hand rub a poly on and it's perfect!!! What I get is a lighter more
golden red oak!


"Jim Bailey" wrote in message
m...
That was my thought - I've been trying to learn a bit about fininshing
(flexner book, web, here, etc) and I was under the impression that that
polyurethane sealed the wood - a top coat. The stain penetrates after that
?
I'm getting confused.

jim

"David" wrote in message
...
Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be
finishing
it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was
going
to
buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going
to
rip
4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them
via
tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the
top
and
bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width,
this
should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm
using
the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the
red
oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

Sounds more like the technique (but not the materials) for doing a glaze.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Well I've made tons of furniture. all by the book. Maple is a soft wood, and
what I think is happening is that the coat of Polyshade as like a
pre-finish. after it dries, I use a foam brush for the red oak. When that
dries I hand rub a poly on and it's perfect!!! What I get is a lighter more
golden red oak!


"Jim Bailey" wrote in message
m...

That was my thought - I've been trying to learn a bit about fininshing
(flexner book, web, here, etc) and I was under the impression that that
polyurethane sealed the wood - a top coat. The stain penetrates after that

?

I'm getting confused.

jim

"David" wrote in message
...

Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:


Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be

finishing

it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was

going

to

buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going

to

rip

4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them

via

tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the

top

and

bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width,

this

should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm

using

the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the

red

oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

never did a glaze......... next project!
"David" wrote in message
...
Sounds more like the technique (but not the materials) for doing a glaze.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:

Well I've made tons of furniture. all by the book. Maple is a soft wood,
and
what I think is happening is that the coat of Polyshade as like a
pre-finish. after it dries, I use a foam brush for the red oak. When
that
dries I hand rub a poly on and it's perfect!!! What I get is a lighter
more
golden red oak!


"Jim Bailey" wrote in message
m...

That was my thought - I've been trying to learn a bit about fininshing
(flexner book, web, here, etc) and I was under the impression that that
polyurethane sealed the wood - a top coat. The stain penetrates after
that

?

I'm getting confused.

jim

"David" wrote in message
...

Huh? You are putting stain on AFTER Polyshades?? That I've got to
see.

Dave

HMFIC@1369 wrote:


Finished cutting, planing and routing. Perfection! Next will be

finishing

it! I ended up going to 84 Lumber Ramsey, very helpful and really nice
people. Much better then Lowes, Home Depot and my local..... I was

going

to

buy 13 & 20 inch stock and yeah warping was an issue, but I was going

to

rip

4 inch pieces. I decided just cutting up 1" x 3.5". and joining them

via

tongue and grove. but I also pre-drilled .25" 1 inch inside from the

top

and

bottom across the width and hammering a glued dowel across the width,

this

should resist any warping whatsoever!

I also experimented GREATLY and found a great consistent color. I'm

using

the first coat of Polyshades (minwax) Pecan Satin, then I wipe on the

red

oak stain and finish with the satin wipe on poly... Cool!

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:FO6Xd.48456$ya6.7984@trndny01...
Well I've made tons of furniture. all by the book. Maple is a soft wood,
and
what I think is happening is that the coat of Polyshade as like a
pre-finish. after it dries, I use a foam brush for the red oak. When that
dries I hand rub a poly on and it's perfect!!! What I get is a lighter
more
golden red oak!

If you have made tons of furniture, how have you avoided making cabinet
doors up until this time and not realize that Maple is also a very hard
wood.

Who are you? Nothing to do? Just a waste of time, huh? Well call me when you
get a clue!


"Leon" wrote in message
...

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:FO6Xd.48456$ya6.7984@trndny01...
Well I've made tons of furniture. all by the book. Maple is a soft wood,
and
what I think is happening is that the coat of Polyshade as like a
pre-finish. after it dries, I use a foam brush for the red oak. When
that
dries I hand rub a poly on and it's perfect!!! What I get is a lighter
more
golden red oak!

If you have made tons of furniture, how have you avoided making cabinet
doors up until this time and not realize that Maple is also a very hard
wood.

Dave

Leon wrote:


If you have made tons of furniture, how have you avoided making cabinet
doors up until this time and not realize that Maple is also a very hard
wood.

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:9MiXd.53269$s16.51348@trndny02...
Who are you? Nothing to do? Just a waste of time, huh? Well call me when
you
get a clue!


You sounded like you were trying to convince someone that you knew what you
were talking about. My questions were really simple had you really known
what you were talking about. Sorry if I put you on the spot or embarrassed
you.

Leon, don't bust my chops.reread the subject line.... does that convince
anyone what I'm talking about? You aren't adding anything to the discussion
are you? Your trying to make a point to bust my chops. Maple is a soft wood
because you can make an impression on it with you finger nail and Minwax
FAQ's will also tell you it's a soft wood. You didn't put me on the spot,
there was just no point to your post.

If you have made tons of furniture, how have you avoided making cabinet
doors up until this time and not realize that Maple is also a very hard
wood


I've made benches, chairs and tables and one summer helped build 2 houses.
Which really doesn't say much as to why I never built cabinets.... Just
never had the need too.



"Leon" wrote in message
...

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:9MiXd.53269$s16.51348@trndny02...
Who are you? Nothing to do? Just a waste of time, huh? Well call me when
you
get a clue!


You sounded like you were trying to convince someone that you knew what
you
were talking about. My questions were really simple had you really known
what you were talking about. Sorry if I put you on the spot or
embarrassed
you.

How profound! Nit much going on Huh?


"David" wrote in message
...


Dave

Leon wrote:


If you have made tons of furniture, how have you avoided making cabinet
doors up until this time and not realize that Maple is also a very hard
wood.

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:H%vXd.31419$QQ3.644@trnddc02...
Leon, don't bust my chops.reread the subject line.... does that convince
anyone what I'm talking about? You aren't adding anything to the
discussion
are you? Your trying to make a point to bust my chops. Maple is a soft
wood
because you can make an impression on it with you finger nail and Minwax
FAQ's will also tell you it's a soft wood. You didn't put me on the spot,
there was just no point to your post.

I cannot understand why you are so defensive. I was asking a question about
your comments and you took offence.


I've made benches, chairs and tables and one summer helped build 2 houses.
Which really doesn't say much as to why I never built cabinets.... Just
never had the need too.

That was the answer I was looking for. Thanks






"Leon" wrote in message
...

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:9MiXd.53269$s16.51348@trndny02...
Who are you? Nothing to do? Just a waste of time, huh? Well call me
when
you
get a clue!


You sounded like you were trying to convince someone that you knew what
you
were talking about. My questions were really simple had you really
known
what you were talking about. Sorry if I put you on the spot or
embarrassed
you.