Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

Norm uses a WET sponge to flood the area. Turn the sponge/paper towel
often. After glue up sand the area.

This one's been battered about quite a bit on the wreck. Many have their
favorite methods. I like Norm's, but don't have the Elves to fix the issues
through the magic of cameras. IMHO, the "best" method depends on the
variables: what glue, what stain or finish, what wood, the finished grit and
the type of joint. Darker and especially pigmented stains suffer the most.
Woods like pine and fir absorb glue much faster than oak. Tape works, but glue
can creep under some tape. Shellac is great, but not if you're going to stain
after. Wax is generally good, since it can be pretty completely removed, but
can be more work. Overall, for any method, I'd suggest checking it on scrap
before the project.

As to the sponge, I happen to use that the most, on oak and such. Some tests
showed that a damp sponge often leaves some glue. I use a really wet sponge
and quickly scrub, clean and squeeze out the sponge and wipe. Lacking Elves in
the shop, that seems to work.
GerryG



On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 15:53:19 GMT, wrote:

Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

says...

Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

Note that you never see anything more than a few swipes with a brush on
his show. I believe that squeeze out should be tiny little beads and
not big globs. If I don't get any squeeze out at all, but I know that I
covered all of the glue surfaces, I consider that a success as well.
It's just too much work to get rid of excess glue after it is as hard as
a rock. I use my finger to smooth out the glue and remove excess.

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:02:42 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

Norm uses a WET sponge to flood the area. Turn the sponge/paper towel
often. After glue up sand the area.

Most of the glue manufacturers advise against that. They say that
using a lot of water in cleaning the glue off will tend to weaken the
joint because some of the water will wick down into the joint and
dilute the glue. Their recommendation is to use less glue and then
either let the squeeze-out set a bit and clean it off with a chisel or
use a scotch-brite type pad that is damp to lift the glue right after
it squeezes out. They say to sort of rock the pad as you wipe so that
the part of the pad in contact with the wood is always a part without
glue on it. Then you rinse it out well and continue.

"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

He is Norm. What more reason do you need?
SH

"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
...

Most of the glue manufacturers advise against that. They say that
using a lot of water in cleaning the glue off will tend to weaken the
joint because some of the water will wick down into the joint and
dilute the glue.

Let me restate, use enough water as to prevent smearing the glue. TiteBond
actually recommends on their TBIII label to remove excess wet glue with
clean damp cloth.
That said, I have never had a properly fitting glued joint fail as a result
of using a bit more than a damp cloth.
I don't think a properly fitting joint would wick enough water to dilute the
glue. A loose fitting joint would be another matter altogether and I could
totally see the point of not using much water in the cloth. But then again
the loose joint will probably fail anyway.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 12:45:04 -0800, "Slowhand" I'm@work wrote:


wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

He is Norm. What more reason do you need?
SH


well said!! LOL
Personally Ilike his "Thumb Wiping" method We don't need no
stinking sponges

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 22:10:12 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
.. .

Most of the glue manufacturers advise against that. They say that
using a lot of water in cleaning the glue off will tend to weaken the
joint because some of the water will wick down into the joint and
dilute the glue.

Let me restate, use enough water as to prevent smearing the glue. TiteBond
actually recommends on their TBIII label to remove excess wet glue with
clean damp cloth.
That said, I have never had a properly fitting glued joint fail as a result
of using a bit more than a damp cloth.
I don't think a properly fitting joint would wick enough water to dilute the
glue. A loose fitting joint would be another matter altogether and I could
totally see the point of not using much water in the cloth. But then again
the loose joint will probably fail anyway.

All probably true - I just wanted to throw that into the discussion.

"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

You could lick it off and not waste a rag ;-)

Kinda reminds me of eating paste in college-- er, grade school.

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:59:17 -0600, Stephen Pinn
wrote:

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 12:45:04 -0800, "Slowhand" I'm@work wrote:


wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

He is Norm. What more reason do you need?
SH


well said!! LOL
Personally Ilike his "Thumb Wiping" method We don't need no
stinking sponges

"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 22:10:12 GMT, "Leon"

All probably true - I just wanted to throw that into the discussion.


The point is definitely worth a consideration, thanks. More insurance that
an improperly assembled joint is eventually doomed to fail.

"Jim K" wrote in message
...

You could lick it off and not waste a rag ;-)

The problem is that it is common porcedure to finish sand after gule up and
water based glues are going to raise the grain before it sets. Rough raised
surface grain is likely to easily splinter. While licking the glue off it
would be prudent to acknowledge the dirrection of the grain. You would NOT
want to slide a splinter into your tongue. ;~) I hope.

On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 02:52:47 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Jim K" wrote in message
.. .

You could lick it off and not waste a rag ;-)

The problem is that it is common porcedure to finish sand after gule up and
water based glues are going to raise the grain before it sets. Rough raised
surface grain is likely to easily splinter. While licking the glue off it
would be prudent to acknowledge the dirrection of the grain. You would NOT
want to slide a splinter into your tongue. ;~) I hope.

Kids nowadays pay good money to get their tongues pierced. You could
do it for free.

"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:02:42 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message ...
Here's one for you finishing experts. How the @!$* does Norm manage to
get
all of that glue all over the place when he glues up his projects but he
still manages to get his ginishes to take? All he ever seems to do is
sponge off the excess. Every time I glue up a project and I get some glue
on my piece, I get a light "splotch" when after I apply the finish. Even
Flexnor seems to say that glue on wood that is to be finished is a MAJOR
no-no! Thanks - Mike

Norm uses a WET sponge to flood the area. Turn the sponge/paper towel
often. After glue up sand the area.


If you do use a WET spong, I suggest you wait until the wood drys well
before sanding. Wet wood will swell slightly, if you sand it smooth,
then it will shrink back after drying. Which could leave a shallow
area.

Tip from Michael Fortune - Canadian woodworker/teacher/mentor/
gentle man - Waxalit - available from Lee Valley. Comes in a small
can or tube - consistency of vasoline (sp?). He uses it mainly on
Windsor chairs where cleaning up squeeze out the old fashion way
took as long as making the chair. Put some on a Q-tip or small rag,
wipe where glue's likely to squeeze out. Dried glue won't stick
to this stuff. Pop the glue, wipe with alcohol on a rag and stain/
finish.

A little of this stuff goes a LONG way so don't order much.

BTW - Titebond II and garnet shellac produces a most unpleasant
salmon color.

charlie b