Well, obviously, as merely human as I am, I cannot afford to go
fancy on the brass bench bolts from y'all-know-where though I
would like to, but I think that 1" barrel nut is too small for the
size stretchers I am using, which are 4x6 DF beams for the front
and back. Blind M&T, peoples, that's the way to go using fluffy
DF.

Yes, as I had mensioned in this NG previously that I would use
wedged tenons, decided against it for the lack of strength of DF.

Tenons going in 50% and are 1" fat, I want to use two bolts per
end/side per stretcher and one through the end of each side brace,
three 4x4s and one doubled (glued together) 4x4 (4/8) where
the end vise mounts through (dual LV tail bench screws mounted
through the side brace).

I could only get the 1" width because of the limited and poorly
made and designed tenon jig in adult ed. Even then, they all had
to be planed down to even fit in the damn thing! ...thank God it's
there tho... heh heh.......heh.....cough! ...heh

My question is on the size of the bolts, two bolts going through
a leg_to_1"_tenon however far, 6" or 8" long,

should they be 3/8" or 1/2" bolts?

TIA,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:FjgVd.1911$8k2.274@fed1read03...

Well, obviously, as merely human as I am, I cannot afford to go
fancy on the brass bench bolts from y'all-know-where though I
would like to, but I think that 1" barrel nut is too small for the
size stretchers I am using, which are 4x6 DF beams for the front
and back.

You could probably get away with 2x6.

Blind M&T, peoples, that's the way to go using fluffy
DF.

Fluffy? Redwood is fluffy. A bit stringy so it tears a bit when you
cut/chisel/bore it, but hardly fluffy.
You sure it is douglas fir?
http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/coastalw...IR/default.asp

Yes, as I had mensioned in this NG previously that I would use
wedged tenons, decided against it for the lack of strength of DF.

Lack of strength?
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/strength_table.htm
It compares pretty well with most hardwoods. Stiffer than cherry for
example.


Tenons going in 50% and are 1" fat, I want to use two bolts per
end/side per stretcher and one through the end of each side brace,
three 4x4s and one doubled (glued together) 4x4 (4/8) where
the end vise mounts through (dual LV tail bench screws mounted
through the side brace).

I could only get the 1" width because of the limited and poorly
made and designed tenon jig in adult ed. Even then, they all had
to be planed down to even fit in the damn thing! ...thank God it's
there tho... heh heh.......heh.....cough! ...heh

Couldn't you just cut them by hand?

My question is on the size of the bolts, two bolts going through
a leg_to_1"_tenon however far, 6" or 8" long,

should they be 3/8" or 1/2" bolts?

Probably just a matter of convenience. 3/8" should be more than strong
enough.

-j

I had the same dilemma building my bench. Although I decided to just peg
the tennons with 1/2" walnut dowels on my trestle and stretchers, I ran all
thread through the benchtop and couldn't decide what size to use. 3/8"
seemed to small and 1/2" seemed too beefy, so I went with 7/16". Just felt
right.

I just put the last coat of finish on my bench yesterday and will post some
pics apbw soon. Good luck on yours! --dave



"J" wrote in message
...
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:FjgVd.1911$8k2.274@fed1read03...

Well, obviously, as merely human as I am, I cannot afford to go
fancy on the brass bench bolts from y'all-know-where though I
would like to, but I think that 1" barrel nut is too small for the
size stretchers I am using, which are 4x6 DF beams for the front
and back.

You could probably get away with 2x6.

Blind M&T, peoples, that's the way to go using fluffy
DF.

Fluffy? Redwood is fluffy. A bit stringy so it tears a bit when you
cut/chisel/bore it, but hardly fluffy.
You sure it is douglas fir?
http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/coastalw...IR/default.asp

Yes, as I had mensioned in this NG previously that I would use
wedged tenons, decided against it for the lack of strength of DF.

Lack of strength?
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/strength_table.htm
It compares pretty well with most hardwoods. Stiffer than cherry for
example.


Tenons going in 50% and are 1" fat, I want to use two bolts per
end/side per stretcher and one through the end of each side brace,
three 4x4s and one doubled (glued together) 4x4 (4/8) where
the end vise mounts through (dual LV tail bench screws mounted
through the side brace).

I could only get the 1" width because of the limited and poorly
made and designed tenon jig in adult ed. Even then, they all had
to be planed down to even fit in the damn thing! ...thank God it's
there tho... heh heh.......heh.....cough! ...heh

Couldn't you just cut them by hand?

My question is on the size of the bolts, two bolts going through
a leg_to_1"_tenon however far, 6" or 8" long,

should they be 3/8" or 1/2" bolts?

Probably just a matter of convenience. 3/8" should be more than strong
enough.

-j

All thread is likely weaker than a high strength bolt of the same size.
Maybe there is some higher strength stuff that can be had, but the stuff in
the local stores doesn't look like it is that strong.

-j

"Dave Jackson" wrote in message
.net...
I had the same dilemma building my bench. Although I decided to just peg
the tennons with 1/2" walnut dowels on my trestle and stretchers, I ran
all
thread through the benchtop and couldn't decide what size to use. 3/8"
seemed to small and 1/2" seemed too beefy, so I went with 7/16". Just
felt
right.

I just put the last coat of finish on my bench yesterday and will post
some
pics apbw soon. Good luck on yours! --dave



"J" wrote in message
...
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:FjgVd.1911$8k2.274@fed1read03...

Well, obviously, as merely human as I am, I cannot afford to go
fancy on the brass bench bolts from y'all-know-where though I
would like to, but I think that 1" barrel nut is too small for the
size stretchers I am using, which are 4x6 DF beams for the front
and back.

You could probably get away with 2x6.

Blind M&T, peoples, that's the way to go using fluffy
DF.

Fluffy? Redwood is fluffy. A bit stringy so it tears a bit when you
cut/chisel/bore it, but hardly fluffy.
You sure it is douglas fir?
http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/coastalw...IR/default.asp

Yes, as I had mensioned in this NG previously that I would use
wedged tenons, decided against it for the lack of strength of DF.

Lack of strength?
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/strength_table.htm
It compares pretty well with most hardwoods. Stiffer than cherry for
example.


Tenons going in 50% and are 1" fat, I want to use two bolts per
end/side per stretcher and one through the end of each side brace,
three 4x4s and one doubled (glued together) 4x4 (4/8) where
the end vise mounts through (dual LV tail bench screws mounted
through the side brace).

I could only get the 1" width because of the limited and poorly
made and designed tenon jig in adult ed. Even then, they all had
to be planed down to even fit in the damn thing! ...thank God it's
there tho... heh heh.......heh.....cough! ...heh

Couldn't you just cut them by hand?

My question is on the size of the bolts, two bolts going through
a leg_to_1"_tenon however far, 6" or 8" long,

should they be 3/8" or 1/2" bolts?

Probably just a matter of convenience. 3/8" should be more than strong
enough.

-j

I had the same dilemma building my bench. Although I decided to just peg
the tennons with 1/2" walnut dowels on my trestle and stretchers, I ran all thread through the benchtop and couldn't decide what
size to use. 3/8" seemed to small and 1/2" seemed too beefy, so I went with 7/16". Just felt right.

I just put the last coat of finish on my bench yesterday and will post some pics apbw soon. Good luck on yours! --dave


You mean 'threaded rod' going through the top from front to back in several places?
That's what I will do, but I want steel rod threaded only on the ends, just for where
the nuts are torqued on. The purpose being for strength, where the threading causes
weakness. That I can have done cheap enough, but I figure I should know what type
of steel to buy. Cold roll? Stainless? Zinced...?

Your figuring on the sizing sounds good too. Did you countersink for the nuts? I
know that takes away from the strength but I don't think I can have the nuts outside
because of vising boards to the front, and as well for the wall the bench is up against.

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

You mean 'threaded rod' going through the top from front to back in
several places?
That's what I will do, but I want steel rod threaded only on the ends,
just for where
the nuts are torqued on. The purpose being for strength, where the
threading causes
weakness.

Have you considered that threading all or a little amounts to the same
thing? It will break at the weakest point. It makes no good to make some of
the links of a chain stronger right?

That I can have done cheap enough, but I figure I should know what type
of steel to buy. Cold roll? Stainless? Zinced...?

Just buy some all thread and be done with it.

Your figuring on the sizing sounds good too. Did you countersink for the
nuts? I
know that takes away from the strength but I don't think I can have the
nuts outside
because of vising boards to the front, and as well for the wall the bench
is up against.

How much strength do you need that you are worried about countersinking?
I think you may be overbuilding this thing.

-j