Howdy,
I'm manufacturing a hickory kitchen for a client and they want Hi-
Macs solid surfacing for a countertop. I've got to build up the edge to
1 1/2" w/a 1/4" beveled edge top and bottom and mount an undermount
stainless sink w/a nice faucet set-up bored thru the top.
I get the idea to rough sand mating parts for the glue to hook up,
but after I rough saw the exposed edges what grits do i need to bring back
the hi pro glow? Can I use an 80 tooth blade and expect to sand it clean or
should I use the router and straightedge? I figger I'll start with 80, then
120 then 220. Is 220 going to cut it or should I proceed on up to say 320
then 600 or so?
On the undermount sink, should I build up to 1 1/2" then mount the
sink or is 1" the standard? Bevel the top, bevel the bottom, glue and screw
the sink in...?
Luckily enough this is a straight run, no joints to monkey with. I
normally don't just up and do things without looking into it, but this
seems pretty basic. Worst case scenario I'd have to sand my ass off. Won't
be the first time for that either.
Anyone on the Rec. have much experience with this stuff?

Muchos grassyass,
Russ P.

In article ,
Russ Penrose -spam wrote:

Howdy,
I'm manufacturing a hickory kitchen for a client and they want Hi-
Macs solid surfacing for a countertop. I've got to build up the edge to
1 1/2" w/a 1/4" beveled edge top and bottom and mount an undermount
stainless sink w/a nice faucet set-up bored thru the top.
I get the idea to rough sand mating parts for the glue to hook up,

You rough sand polyesters. HiMacs is an acrylic so their adhesive is a
'cohesion' process rather than an 'adhesion' one. If you rough sand, you
will get white lines where the joints are.
The thing to do with all quality acrylics, is to clean one edge (while
still attached to the sheet) with a straight edge and router. Slow
speed, Slow feed and a large straight bit. (1" or bigger)
After you have that near-perfect edge... cut it ( 1-1/8" wide) off with
a circular saw using same straight edge. Now flip the top over and cut a
1/8" x 9/16 rabbet on the bottom of the deck... nice and slow..(heat
turns all that **** white) Clean everything with methyl Hydrate and a
WHITE, lint-free rag.
Run a bead of adhesive---- ( I assume you have the proper dispensing
gun?)(Make sure you purge the gun and cartridge) ( Dispose of purged
adhesive in a safe way...cuz the reaction can set that **** on fire)----
in the rabbet and stick on your edge (vertically) and use one 2" Pony
spring clamp per 3" DO NOT overclamp, adhesive starvation is a bad
thing. Clean up squeeze-out from behind the edge, but not the front
(visible) edge. Make sure there is squeeze-out at the front. Don't get
any adhesive on your fingers...burns and removes skin.
Flip the top back over when the adhesive is set and trim with flush
(bottom bearing bit) using the newly installed edge as a guide.
Now do you bevels and sand.

but after I rough saw the exposed edges what grits do i need to bring back
the hi pro glow? Can I use an 80 tooth blade and expect to sand it clean or
should I use the router and straightedge? I figger I'll start with 80, then
120 then 220. Is 220 going to cut it or should I proceed on up to say 320
then 600 or so?

Noooo.. start with 180 until uniform.. then go to 240.. then go to
maroon Scotchbrite pad... all in a ROSander.

On the undermount sink, should I build up to 1 1/2" then mount the
sink or is 1" the standard? Bevel the top, bevel the bottom, glue and screw
the sink in...?

Undermounts go under the 1/2 deck...no build-ups. (I suppose you
can..but ****, man.. you're making a lot of work for yourself)
Finish with a tiny bevel. Now THERE you rough sand the bottom as you
will be using silicone to mount the sink. Make sure you buy a sink which
is designed for undermounting Solid surface. Keep the botton straight
and crisp. Use the clamping technique suggested by the sink manufacturer.


Luckily enough this is a straight run, no joints to monkey with. I
normally don't just up and do things without looking into it, but this
seems pretty basic. Worst case scenario I'd have to sand my ass off. Won't
be the first time for that either.
Anyone on the Rec. have much experience with this stuff?

Yup.

And if you're serious about this material... take a course at ISSFA.
http://www.issfa.net/


Good luck. (PS..Samsung Staron used to publish a fabrication manual
on-line..see if you can DAGS it..)

0¿0

Rob

Robatoy wrote in
:

In article ,
Russ Penrose -spam wrote:

Howdy,
I'm manufacturing a hickory kitchen for a client and they
want Hi-
Macs solid surfacing for a countertop. I've got to build up the edge
to 1 1/2" w/a 1/4" beveled edge top and bottom and mount an
undermount stainless sink w/a nice faucet set-up bored thru the top.
I get the idea to rough sand mating parts for the glue to
hook up,

You rough sand polyesters. HiMacs is an acrylic so their adhesive is a
'cohesion' process rather than an 'adhesion' one. If you rough sand,
you will get white lines where the joints are.
The thing to do with all quality acrylics, is to clean one edge (while
still attached to the sheet) with a straight edge and router. Slow
speed, Slow feed and a large straight bit. (1" or bigger)
After you have that near-perfect edge... cut it ( 1-1/8" wide) off
with a circular saw using same straight edge. Now flip the top over
and cut a 1/8" x 9/16 rabbet on the bottom of the deck... nice and
slow..(heat turns all that **** white) Clean everything with methyl
Hydrate and a WHITE, lint-free rag.

Hmmm, Methyl Hydrate, that isn't available in the local hardware
store is it? I've got lacquer thinner, mineral spirits and denatured
alcohol in stock. I can get my hands on some toluol and maybe some
methyl ethyl ketone.


Run a bead of adhesive---- ( I assume you have the proper dispensing
gun?)(Make sure you purge the gun and cartridge) ( Dispose of purged
adhesive in a safe way...cuz the reaction can set that **** on
fire)---- in the rabbet and stick on your edge (vertically) and use
one 2" Pony spring clamp per 3" DO NOT overclamp, adhesive starvation
is a bad thing. Clean up squeeze-out from behind the edge, but not the
front (visible) edge. Make sure there is squeeze-out at the front.
Don't get any adhesive on your fingers...burns and removes skin.
Flip the top back over when the adhesive is set and trim with flush
(bottom bearing bit) using the newly installed edge as a guide.
Now do you bevels and sand.

The proper dispensing gun? No! They want $170 for one. I tossed
the mix in my caulk gun and drilled a hole in the end a dowel and hooked
it onto the little crook handle on my caulk gun. Now as the resin is
dispensed, the top catalyst tube dispenses at the same rate, and goes
thru the static mixer just slick as s#&t.

but after I rough saw the exposed edges what grits do i need to bring
back the hi pro glow? Can I use an 80 tooth blade and expect to sand
it clean or should I use the router and straightedge? I figger I'll
start with 80, then 120 then 220. Is 220 going to cut it or should I
proceed on up to say 320 then 600 or so?

Noooo.. start with 180 until uniform.. then go to 240.. then go to
maroon Scotchbrite pad... all in a ROSander.

Cool.

On the undermount sink, should I build up to 1 1/2" then
mount the
sink or is 1" the standard? Bevel the top, bevel the bottom, glue and
screw the sink in...?

Undermounts go under the 1/2 deck...no build-ups. (I suppose you
can..but ****, man.. you're making a lot of work for yourself)
Finish with a tiny bevel. Now THERE you rough sand the bottom as you
will be using silicone to mount the sink. Make sure you buy a sink
which is designed for undermounting Solid surface. Keep the botton
straight and crisp. Use the clamping technique suggested by the sink
manufacturer.

Woohoo! Seemed like a pain to build it up. I think I saw that on
some DIY show.




Luckily enough this is a straight run, no joints to monkey
with. I
normally don't just up and do things without looking into it, but
this seems pretty basic. Worst case scenario I'd have to sand my ass
off. Won't be the first time for that either.
Anyone on the Rec. have much experience with this stuff?

Yup.

And if you're serious about this material... take a course at ISSFA.
http://www.issfa.net/

I am serious but not enough to pay $1300 for lessons and such. I
think you hooked me up. I learn quick thru my own schol of hard knocks.


Good luck. (PS..Samsung Staron used to publish a fabrication manual
on-line..see if you can DAGS it..)

I tried that but to no avail. I gotta say I ~really~ appreciate
the pointers. Again muchos grassyass. Russ P.

0¿0

Rob

In article ,
Russ Penrose -spam wrote:


Hmmm, Methyl Hydrate, that isn't available in the local hardware
store is it? I've got lacquer thinner, mineral spirits and denatured
alcohol in stock. I can get my hands on some toluol and maybe some
methyl ethyl ketone.

It is sometimes used as fuel as well. But NEVER use anything else but
methyl Hydrate. Hardware and paint stores sell it.


The proper dispensing gun? No! They want $170 for one. I tossed
the mix in my caulk gun and drilled a hole in the end a dowel and hooked
it onto the little crook handle on my caulk gun. Now as the resin is
dispensed, the top catalyst tube dispenses at the same rate, and goes
thru the static mixer just slick as s#&t.

LOL.. whatever works, dude! Cox makes a gun that sells for around 100
buckaroonies.

I am serious but not enough to pay $1300 for lessons and such. I
think you hooked me up. I learn quick thru my own schol of hard knocks.

A couple of medium sized jobs, and you'll have that money back. A lot of
manufacturers want to 'certify' the fabricator. The ISSFA method is the
bulk of what they are after. Warranty issues and all that rot.
It can be a very rewarding career path.

http://www.worldpanel.com/diamonitefab.htm has some info

There is a lot of stuff on woodweb.com as well.




0¿0

Rob

Robatoy wrote in
:

In article ,
Russ Penrose -spam wrote:




It is sometimes used as fuel as well. But NEVER use anything else but
methyl Hydrate. Hardware and paint stores sell it.

I wasn't aware of that. I used denatured alcohol. Everything
seemed to hook up real good.


The proper dispensing gun? No! They want $170 for one. I
tossed
the mix in my caulk gun and drilled a hole in the end a dowel and
hooked it onto the little crook handle on my caulk gun. Now as the
resin is dispensed, the top catalyst tube dispenses at the same rate,
and goes thru the static mixer just slick as s#&t.

LOL.. whatever works, dude! Cox makes a gun that sells for around 100
buckaroonies.

I mighta gone for $100.. I charged the guy $300 for a day's work
to manufacture and install the piece. Next time I'll add the $100 to the
price and go for it.



A couple of medium sized jobs, and you'll have that money back. A lot
of manufacturers want to 'certify' the fabricator. The ISSFA method is
the bulk of what they are after. Warranty issues and all that rot.
It can be a very rewarding career path.

I prolly oughta get certified. I'm sure now that the GC I do a lot
of work for finds out I'm willing to do solid surface, he'll get me more
work like that.


http://www.worldpanel.com/diamonitefab.htm has some info

There is a lot of stuff on woodweb.com as well.

Thanks for the walk thru,
Russ P.




0¿0

Rob