In article ,
Russ Penrose -spam wrote:
Howdy,
I'm manufacturing a hickory kitchen for a client and they want Hi-
Macs solid surfacing for a countertop. I've got to build up the edge to
1 1/2" w/a 1/4" beveled edge top and bottom and mount an undermount
stainless sink w/a nice faucet set-up bored thru the top.
I get the idea to rough sand mating parts for the glue to hook up,
You rough sand polyesters. HiMacs is an acrylic so their adhesive is a
'cohesion' process rather than an 'adhesion' one. If you rough sand, you
will get white lines where the joints are.
The thing to do with all quality acrylics, is to clean one edge (while
still attached to the sheet) with a straight edge and router. Slow
speed, Slow feed and a large straight bit. (1" or bigger)
After you have that near-perfect edge... cut it ( 1-1/8" wide) off with
a circular saw using same straight edge. Now flip the top over and cut a
1/8" x 9/16 rabbet on the bottom of the deck... nice and slow..(heat
turns all that **** white) Clean everything with methyl Hydrate and a
WHITE, lint-free rag.
Run a bead of adhesive---- ( I assume you have the proper dispensing
gun?)(Make sure you purge the gun and cartridge) ( Dispose of purged
adhesive in a safe way...cuz the reaction can set that **** on fire)----
in the rabbet and stick on your edge (vertically) and use one 2" Pony
spring clamp per 3" DO NOT overclamp, adhesive starvation is a bad
thing. Clean up squeeze-out from behind the edge, but not the front
(visible) edge. Make sure there is squeeze-out at the front. Don't get
any adhesive on your fingers...burns and removes skin.
Flip the top back over when the adhesive is set and trim with flush
(bottom bearing bit) using the newly installed edge as a guide.
Now do you bevels and sand.
but after I rough saw the exposed edges what grits do i need to bring back
the hi pro glow? Can I use an 80 tooth blade and expect to sand it clean or
should I use the router and straightedge? I figger I'll start with 80, then
120 then 220. Is 220 going to cut it or should I proceed on up to say 320
then 600 or so?
Noooo.. start with 180 until uniform.. then go to 240.. then go to
maroon Scotchbrite pad... all in a ROSander.
On the undermount sink, should I build up to 1 1/2" then mount the
sink or is 1" the standard? Bevel the top, bevel the bottom, glue and screw
the sink in...?
Undermounts go under the 1/2 deck...no build-ups. (I suppose you
can..but ****, man.. you're making a lot of work for yourself)
Finish with a tiny bevel. Now THERE you rough sand the bottom as you
will be using silicone to mount the sink. Make sure you buy a sink which
is designed for undermounting Solid surface. Keep the botton straight
and crisp. Use the clamping technique suggested by the sink manufacturer.
Luckily enough this is a straight run, no joints to monkey with. I
normally don't just up and do things without looking into it, but this
seems pretty basic. Worst case scenario I'd have to sand my ass off. Won't
be the first time for that either.
Anyone on the Rec. have much experience with this stuff?
Yup.
And if you're serious about this material... take a course at ISSFA.
http://www.issfa.net/
Good luck. (PS..Samsung Staron used to publish a fabrication manual
on-line..see if you can DAGS it..)
0¿0
Rob