Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

TIA

Nicholas

if I understand you correctly, I used to use a c clamp on the rail.


"Nicholas" wrote in message
...
Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

TIA

Nicholas

On 2005/2/3 4:54 PM, "Nicholas" wrote:

Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

I mount my RAS at the end of a built in workbench so that the saw table
lined up with the bench top. This gives me about ten feet of flat surface
tot eh right of the blade. I then replaced the backstop board on the RAS
with on that is six feet long, notched so that three feet of it extends over
the workbench.

Since I have a table saw, I almost always keep the RAS set at 90 degrees and
use it as a cutoff saw.

For repetitive cuts, I just clamp a small piece of scrap to the extended
backstop. This work for up to four feet. Beyond that, I might clamp
something to the workbench top.

On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 21:54:34 -0000, "Nicholas"
wrote:

Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

TIA

Nicholas

Coincidently, in the checkout line at HD today I noticed there is a "tip"
about how to build a simple, but well thought-out such a dealie in the
March issue of American Woodworker,

We manufacture walk-in-coolers for grocery stores etc., where I work, with
2x4 frames. Several hundred 2x4's get crosscut every week. They use a 12'
length of 3/4 black iron pipe with a stationary end of a pony (pipe) clamp
on the pipe. The pipe sits on top of the cutting stop (or backsplash area).
They back up the pony clamp with a pair of visegrip round jaw pliers. Secure
the pipe well so it can't move. I see them slam 2x4's into this thing all
day long, and it doesn't move a 1/64 of an inch. I work in the service
department know, but when I have worked in mfg. it always worked well. Hope
this helps.
Lyndell


"Nicholas" wrote in message
...
Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

TIA

Nicholas

"Nicholas" wrote in message
...

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

Nicholas...

There're pictures of one I built at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/t-clamps.html (3rd and 4th photo
down) - they aren't difficult to make and work well.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

"igor" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 21:54:34 -0000, "Nicholas"
wrote:

Hi

I have a radial arm saw and want to make an adjustable stop. I'm sure I
could fugure one out but I wondered if anyone knew of any plans out there
for a shop-built system?

TIA

Nicholas

Coincidently, in the checkout line at HD today I noticed there is a "tip"
about how to build a simple, but well thought-out such a dealie in the
March issue of American Woodworker,

Why "build" something so simple? I've done pieces, mitered and un, clamped
to the fence, pieces clamped to the auxiliary table, even a brief fling with
one of the "tip" types in a magazine which featured a T and jam nut and bolt
for microadjustablity. Waste of time.

Only thing you need to remember is if the stop is close to the blade,
provide dust relief.