I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

none today wrote:
I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

The edge of the cast iron top on my old (30 yrs) Rockwell/Beaver saw is
painted black. A King saw that I saw at a dealer recently had the edge
of the cast iron top painted gray. (however it was already chipping off
with some rust underneath -needless to say I didn't buy one). As long
as you got it really clean and devoid of grease and wax and rust, it
should probably work.

Are there any professional paint shops in your area that could powder
coat it?

Rob

Why not laminate with Formica or something slick. You can glue it on and
remove it with heat when you want.
max

I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Matthew

"none today" wrote in message
news:1107132068.1680098d4abacc593df3fa0dec06a728@t eranews...
I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table saw,
but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire product
and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly can I not
paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I sand with 600
grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could wax on top of that,
to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never have to worry about
rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why.
I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew wrote:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Matthew

Hell yeah! I'm gonna be moving in a few months. Seeing as how I'll
have to take the table off the big iron anyway...

-Phil Crow

This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Matthew


Why not nickel plating?

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
http://www.e-sword.net/

Sun, Jan 30, 2005, 9:03pm (EST-1) (Matthew)
tosses out:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet
it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Not that many chrome shops around anymore. Anyway, chrome
scratches pretty easily. And, I bet it'd cost more than $100.

Might want to look into nickle plating. That can be done at home,
very simple, tho I don't know about something as large as that. Maybe
parkerized? Ah, Hell, just paint the damn thing, it'd be cheaper, you
can do it yourself, and if it gets scratched, you can repair it. And,
you can use yellow paint.



JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli

I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
If you try it, let us know the results.
http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html



JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 16:44:22 -0800, none today wrote:

I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I

Personally I wouldn't paint it myself but here's something you might
try.
I have a table saw in my garage that I don't use often enough to keep
the top shiny. I had a small empty cardboard box sitting on the table
and when I removed it I noticed that the top under the cardboard was
shiny but the rest of the top was kinda getting that darkened look to
it. Not yet rust but just a slight discoloration. I cleaned the top
up sprayed it down and cut a piece of cardboard the full size of the
top. I used a folded up cabinet box so it's actually two layers. I
leave the cardboard there until I use the saw. It may be that the
cardboard is absorbing the moisture or that the cardboard acts like a
vapor barrier or it might just be my imagination but the top is
always shiny even after several months.

Mike O.

none today wrote:

I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live
in Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my
table saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the
empire product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking,
why exactly can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say
rust-oleum. If I sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very
smooth, and I could wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides
easily. I would never have to worry about rust again. No one does
this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why. I just can't think
of what it is.

Thanks in advance.


Paint scratches easy. Trick to having things slide is the smoothness
factor. Scratched paint will increase friction. With constant
polishing and waxing, paint should be okay. Powder coat is actually a
type of plastic that is cooked onto whatever you are coating. High
friction content. Plus there are no guarantees that you will end up
with a level surface after the process. Plus, once you chip it in one
spot, it will keep coming up!

With chrome or nickel plating, you will want to specify that you don't
want your surface polished. No guarantees that the guy holding your
table to the buffer wheel will keep it a flat surface, so specify no
polish. Just plate. Low upkeep with chrome. Nickel will require some
polishing, occasionally.

none today wrote:
I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

If you paint it be sure to use the red or gray primer.

J T wrote:
I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
If you try it, let us know the results.
http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html



JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli


Well he could cold blue it. That's even easier. Na. stick
with the paint.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:03:30 -0600, "Matthew"
wrote:

This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Couldn't the glare be a problem ?

Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.

"J T" wrote in message
...
Sun, Jan 30, 2005, 9:03pm (EST-1) (Matthew)
tosses out:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet
it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Not that many chrome shops around anymore. Anyway, chrome
scratches pretty easily. And, I bet it'd cost more than $100.

Might want to look into nickle plating. That can be done at home,
very simple, tho I don't know about something as large as that. Maybe
parkerized? Ah, Hell, just paint the damn thing, it'd be cheaper, you
can do it yourself, and if it gets scratched, you can repair it. And,
you can use yellow paint.



JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli

On 30 Jan 2005 19:08:56 -0800, the inscrutable
spake:


Matthew wrote:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Matthew

Hell yeah! I'm gonna be moving in a few months. Seeing as how I'll
have to take the table off the big iron anyway...

Guys, be SURE to post links to pics of those if and when you do it.
I'd love to see 'em.


================================================== =======
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
================================================== =======

On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 07:24:41 -0500, the inscrutable GregP
spake:

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:03:30 -0600, "Matthew"
wrote:

This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Couldn't the glare be a problem ?

It probably wouldn't be much worse than a clean, waxed arn surface.


================================================== =======
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
================================================== =======

I have overhead lights in my shop and when I work on shiny stuff on my bench
as I move around you get the full reflection of the lights off of the shiny
surface. You don¹t' want to be running your hand next to the blade and
suddenly get "snow blinded" from a chromed saw top.
max

On 30 Jan 2005 19:08:56 -0800, the inscrutable
spake:


Matthew wrote:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.

Matthew

Hell yeah! I'm gonna be moving in a few months. Seeing as how I'll
have to take the table off the big iron anyway...

Guys, be SURE to post links to pics of those if and when you do it.
I'd love to see 'em.


================================================== =======
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
================================================== =======

Mon, Jan 31, 2005, 1:17pm (EST+5) (OldMan) says:
Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.

I read one that said charcoal broiled steak was a carcinogen. But,
the doctor that did the study said he was still gonna eat it - very
minor risk.



JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli

On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 13:17:44 GMT, "OldMan"
wrote:

Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.

So are barbecued hamburgers. Take reasonable precautions.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 23:03:01 -0600, Mike wrote:

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 16:44:22 -0800, none today wrote:

I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I

Personally I wouldn't paint it myself but here's something you might
try.
I have a table saw in my garage that I don't use often enough to keep
the top shiny. I had a small empty cardboard box sitting on the table
and when I removed it I noticed that the top under the cardboard was
shiny but the rest of the top was kinda getting that darkened look to
it. Not yet rust but just a slight discoloration. I cleaned the top
up sprayed it down and cut a piece of cardboard the full size of the
top. I used a folded up cabinet box so it's actually two layers. I
leave the cardboard there until I use the saw. It may be that the
cardboard is absorbing the moisture or that the cardboard acts like a
vapor barrier or it might just be my imagination but the top is
always shiny even after several months.

My experience with this type of idea is that in a high-humidity area
you will develop unbelievable rust under the cardboard in just a
couple of days.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 22:32:54 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
If you try it, let us know the results.
http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html

Doesn't parkerizing basically convert the surface of the metal into a
not-so-smooth sponge-like surface so that it will absorb oil well?
That has always been my understanding of its use as a firearms finish,
that it does a great job of preventing corrosion because it holds oil
so well, not because of anything in the finish itself. Parkerized guns
are also not as smooth and slick feeling as blued ones.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

"OldMan"
wrote:

Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.

I'm getting rid of all the nickels in my pocket. Copper is supposed to be
bad also, so I'm getting rid of them also. Dollar bills are filthy so I
tossed all of them.

Sure with I could afford a cup of coffee, but got rid of all the
contaminated stuff I had.

Unless you have it powder coated the paint will probably rub off on to the
wood you are cutting. I had an old insert that left red paint on my wood
until all the paint rubbed off.
Use the Empire product to restore the finish and then apply 2 or 3 initial
coats of TopCote. I live in Houston and the humidity is regularly 80% and
above and I have no rust problems using TopCote and I apply it about every
3 or 4 months. If you have condensing moisture on your tools nothing will
probably help short of spraying down with oil.

"none today" wrote in message
news:1107132068.1680098d4abacc593df3fa0dec06a728@t eranews...
I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table saw,
but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire product
and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly can I not
paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I sand with 600
grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could wax on top of that,
to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never have to worry about
rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why.
I just can't think of what it is.

Thanks in advance.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"OldMan"
wrote:


Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.


I'm getting rid of all the nickels in my pocket. Copper is supposed to be
bad also, so I'm getting rid of them also. Dollar bills are filthy so I
tossed all of them.

Sure with I could afford a cup of coffee, but got rid of all the
contaminated stuff I had.


Coffee is a carcinogen too. You're better off without it.

Rob

PS. Next time just mail the cash to me. I don't believe in evidence
based medicine.