Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be very
helpful.
Thanks,

I have made a number of boxes from Padauk, using normal tools and glue. No
problems, glue holds, no customer complaints. Looks great with a tung oil
finish.

Steve

"Carol Dufour" wrote in message
...
Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be
very
helpful.
Thanks,

"Carol Dufour" wrote in message
...
Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be
very
helpful.
Thanks,



I have turned some for pens and have found it to be somewhat porus, but
sands down well to give a nice surface but very easy to grip. I am using
Behlen's turners finish on it (Woodcraft). It is somewhat dusty but not
worse than other woods. One peculiar thing is that the heartwood can be
pithy, almost to a point of becoming paste. As I would center drill the pen
blanks, I would have to bring the bit out and clean it (orange paste type
substance) then continue drilling. It did not affect the glue's ability to
work(Titebond II) nor did it affect the strength of the wood. This must be
some sap leftover from kiln drying? I am somewhat of a newby, but I hope
this helps.
Lyndell

Huh.

Contrary to previous posts, I found that when I milled and sanded padauk, it
produced a very fine red dust that got EVERYWHERE (it covered EVERY
horizontal surface in my shop), that I swear produced a nasty chest
infection that lasted for weeks (read: "wear respirator"). It milled
nicely and glued well enough (Titebond II). I've read here and in books
that oil finishes cause the color to turn to brown faster than water-based
finishes.

-jbb

"Carol Dufour" wrote in message
...
Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be
very
helpful.
Thanks,

"J.B. Bobbitt" wrote in message
. com...
Huh.

Contrary to previous posts, I found that when I milled and sanded padauk,
it produced a very fine red dust that got EVERYWHERE (it covered EVERY
horizontal surface in my shop), that I swear produced a nasty chest
infection that lasted for weeks (read: "wear respirator"). It milled
nicely and glued well enough (Titebond II). I've read here and in books
that oil finishes cause the color to turn to brown faster than water-based
finishes.

In all fairness to the dust situation, Walnut gets dark dust every where
also. Dark woods produce dark dust that seems to get everywhere. Actually
most any wood get dust every where but is less noticeable when working light
woods. As for the wood turning brown, I suspect the sunlight may have more
effect. I have some furniture finished with oil and oil based varnishes and
the Padauk is still red, dark red but not anywhere near brown. These pieces
are over 20 years old.

I've made a bunch of pens and desk accessories and a jewelry box out of
Paduak (check out my website for pictures of the box). It works quite well
and glues up nicely with normal wood glue (Elmer's Pro-bond). I do notice
that the dust tends to be almost magnetic. I've not had any respiratory
problems with the dust. It's a very attractive wood but just be aware that
it will darken in time. I finish my pens with a shellac based product and
the box I did with lacquer and I'm quite pleased with both finishes. I plan
on making more with this wood as it's really quite striking.

--
Jeff P.

"A new study shows that licking the sweat off a frog
can cure depression. The down side is, the minute
you stop licking, the frog gets depressed again." - Jay Leno


Check out my woodshop at: www.sawdustcentral.com


"Carol Dufour" wrote in message
...
Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be
very
helpful.
Thanks,

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 22:42:13 GMT, "J.B. Bobbitt" wrote:

Huh.

Contrary to previous posts, I found that when I milled and sanded padauk, it
produced a very fine red dust that got EVERYWHERE (it covered EVERY
horizontal surface in my shop), that I swear produced a nasty chest
infection that lasted for weeks
padouk is one of the worst dust producers out there. some tropicals make fine
dust no matter what you do to them and padouk is one of the biggest. it will
make clouds of very fine dust just crosscutting or ripping it. it takes a
cyclone to catch that sawdust too. it turns everything that color. all my clear
hose is that color now.
but padouk is a oily wood and if you use yellow glue the joint can fail. poly
is my choice and gorilla glue the best. freshly mill/sand and dampen both sides
and glue up. as usual poly won't dry very well and a oil finish takes awhile to
dry.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

In all fairness to the dust situation, Walnut gets dark dust every where
also.
true but some tropicals are far worse at making fine dust where there would only
be chips. padouk is one of the worst bloodwood about the worst. it is almost
impossible to trap all of the bloodwood dust. a couple of others are really bad
too. but padouk for a softer wood is really bad. Plus the dust will stain
everything.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 16:16:55 -0200, "Carol Dufour"
wrote:

Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be very
helpful.
Thanks,

Padauk is beautiful stuff which is something of a pain to
work, being both hard and somewhat coarse-grained (splintery). I just
finished a carving project using it. I found I needed to keep my tools
very sharp.

It doesn't appear to be dusty and I don't know about toxicity.

--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...


In all fairness to the dust situation, Walnut gets dark dust every where
also.
true but some tropicals are far worse at making fine dust where there
would only
be chips. padouk is one of the worst bloodwood about the worst. it is
almost
impossible to trap all of the bloodwood dust. a couple of others are
really bad
too. but padouk for a softer wood is really bad. Plus the dust will stain
everything.

Yeah I have been down that road a few times with Padauk. I do not recall
the dust being exceptionally bad but then I have been cutting a lot of Ipe
lately. :~). I do recall the red dust staining though. I have used it wit
Oak and Maple and the Padauk would easily bleed over on to the lighter wood.
I have a Padauk, Walnut, and Cocobolo coffee table and that was not a
problem.

I worked with this wood on several products and actually still have some of
them around. The wood machines very well. It is a "glossy" type of wood (for
lack of a better word) in that is cuts and polishes easily. It can burn if
you push the speed or the router bit. I have waxed or oiled this wood with
good results. It polishes on a buffing wheel to a high shine. The blue ups
are up to 10 years old and yellow glue seems to be working with out special
effort. The wood is reddish and can have black purple brown or other color
streaks. Overall it is a very nice wood to work with.
max

Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be very
helpful.
Thanks,

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 21:47:44 -0800, the inscrutable Steve Knight
spake:

padouk is one of the worst dust producers out there. some tropicals make fine
dust no matter what you do to them and padouk is one of the biggest. it will
make clouds of very fine dust just crosscutting or ripping it. it takes a
cyclone to catch that sawdust too. it turns everything that color. all my clear
hose is that color now.

Jarrah is pretty bad about that, too, but I haven't found it
to be the dye the padauk dust is said to be.


but padouk is a oily wood and if you use yellow glue the joint can fail. poly
is my choice and gorilla glue the best. freshly mill/sand and dampen both sides
and glue up. as usual poly won't dry very well and a oil finish takes awhile to
dry.

I found some TiteBond Poly glue in the hardwood store yesterday
and grabbed a bottle. $5.75 for a 4 oz. bottle. Have you tried it?


----------------------------------------------------
Thesaurus: Ancient reptile with excellent vocabulary
http://diversify.com Dynamic Website Applications
================================================== ==

Yeah I have been down that road a few times with Padauk. I do not recall
the dust being exceptionally bad but then I have been cutting a lot of Ipe
lately. :~). I do recall the red dust staining though. I have used it wit
Oak and Maple and the Padauk would easily bleed over on to the lighter wood.
I have a Padauk, Walnut, and Cocobolo coffee table and that was not a
problem.


it is believe me I used to use a hell of a lot of padouk. when it gets mixed
with other sawdust all you see is padouk (G) when I used a bag on my DC you
could always smell the padouk dust and the bag is now permanently orange (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

I found some TiteBond Poly glue in the hardwood store yesterday
and grabbed a bottle. $5.75 for a 4 oz. bottle. Have you tried it?

it's ok most are but if you want the strongest bond gorilla gave it. it matters
more on oily woods then regular woods though. I don't think on regular woods it
would make much of a difference.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

unless you test the joints you won't know. it's not like the wood will pop apart
when you use yellow glue a day after you glue it up. but the joint is weaker
then the wood if you use yellow glue. I used to test this out all of the time
finding the best glue and playing with temp and stuff. if you want a stronger
then wood joint you have to glue oily woods right.
I glue one hell of a lot of oily woods and if you don't believe me well I guess
you can pay the price later on (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 10:16:55 -0800, Carol Dufour wrote
(in article ) :

Would like to know your experience with African Padauk. What are the
advantages and disadvanges when working with this type wood. Would it need
special glue for lamination? Is it very dusty? Any information would be very
helpful.
Thanks,



I've made two tables using paduk, and second the comments about it being hard
and splintery- hand chopping mortices was really no fun. It does, however,
finish to a beautiful, lustrous sheen. Yellow glue has worked well for me
(knock on wood)- it doesn't seem to be an oily wood.

Here's a link to the tech sheet:


http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/TechSheets...frica/pterocar
psoy.html

As to it's dust: it tends to stain my hands, and I make a point of being
extra conscientious about wearing my dust mask.

I've made two tables using paduk, and second the comments about it being hard
and splintery- hand chopping mortices was really no fun. It does, however,
finish to a beautiful, lustrous sheen. Yellow glue has worked well for me
(knock on wood)- it doesn't seem to be an oily wood.

its and oily wood. a simple test is to use poly on it. it will take weeks to dry
if it ever does. if it is not oily it is not the normal padouk most of us get.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:35:31 -0800, the inscrutable Steve Knight
spake:

I found some TiteBond Poly glue in the hardwood store yesterday
and grabbed a bottle. $5.75 for a 4 oz. bottle. Have you tried it?

it's ok most are but if you want the strongest bond gorilla gave it. it matters
more on oily woods then regular woods though. I don't think on regular woods it
would make much of a difference.

Do you use acetone to clean prior to gluing? If not, what solvent
do you use? Just curious.

Speaking of curiosity, how are my planes coming? I can't wait to
try the Japanese iron. I hope to have the gallery up tomorrow or
Tuesday.


================================================== =======
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
================================================== =======

Steve Knight wrote in
:

unless you test the joints you won't know. it's not like the wood will
pop apart when you use yellow glue a day after you glue it up. but the
joint is weaker then the wood if you use yellow glue. I used to test
this out all of the time finding the best glue and playing with temp
and stuff. if you want a stronger then wood joint you have to glue
oily woods right.
I glue one hell of a lot of oily woods and if you don't believe me
well I guess
you can pay the price later on (G)


Hi Steve,

Just curious if you are in favor of wiping with acetone prior to gluing
oily woods?

I've read differing opinions ... some say that with Gorilla it doesn't
matter. Others say differently. I know you do a lot with tropicals so I
was interested in your opinion.

Regards,
Nate

Do you use acetone to clean prior to gluing? If not, what solvent
do you use? Just curious.

Speaking of curiosity, how are my planes coming? I can't wait to
try the Japanese iron. I hope to have the gallery up tomorrow or
Tuesday.

no acetone tends to pull the oil to the surface. freshly mill/sand and dampen
both sides and use gorilla glue.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Just curious if you are in favor of wiping with acetone prior to gluing
oily woods?

I use too but I found if you freshly mill/sand the wood and dampen both sides it
gives a better joint. plus it is less of a hassle (G) but there were some tests
in a wood mag that showed the same thing.




--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote in
:



Just curious if you are in favor of wiping with acetone prior to
gluing oily woods?

I use too but I found if you freshly mill/sand the wood and dampen
both sides it gives a better joint. plus it is less of a hassle (G)
but there were some tests in a wood mag that showed the same thing.

Thanks, Steve.