Well there's a question I have about a simple thing such as a shooting
board. It's a little difficult to describe in words, but as no pictures are
allowed he

Assume a simple 90 degree shooting board that you want to use to true up an
endgrain edge. like a bench hook, there's the backstop against which you
place the work..which keeps the piece from skittering off to the other side
of the shop.

If the end of the backstop isn't lined up with the edge of the workpiece
then you will get tearout.

If the edge is coincident with the end of the backstop, then, when you
plane, there will be no tearout on the back edge of the workpiece. But
then, the plane iron will chop away at the end of the backstop. And the
next workpiece you try to shoot will get tearout.

I suppose one could ease the back edge of the workpiece.

Or just stop the plane before it hits the backstop, when you get close to a
trued edge.

But I've never heard of those two ideas in anything I've read about shooting
boards. I've experienced the tearout first hand. is there a detail of
shooting board design I've overlooked?

thanks


--
Saville

Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm

You are correct in that your backstop must be positioned so that it backs up
the end grain cut, and it gets shorter all the time. Dovetailing it in
place allows it to be repositioned easily. Lots of good information, and a
ramped shooting board that works great, he

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...otingindex.htm

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI



"gregg" wrote in message
...
Well there's a question I have about a simple thing such as a shooting
board. It's a little difficult to describe in words, but as no pictures
are
allowed he

Assume a simple 90 degree shooting board that you want to use to true up
an
endgrain edge. like a bench hook, there's the backstop against which you
place the work..which keeps the piece from skittering off to the other
side
of the shop.

If the end of the backstop isn't lined up with the edge of the workpiece
then you will get tearout.

If the edge is coincident with the end of the backstop, then, when you
plane, there will be no tearout on the back edge of the workpiece. But
then, the plane iron will chop away at the end of the backstop. And the
next workpiece you try to shoot will get tearout.

I suppose one could ease the back edge of the workpiece.

Or just stop the plane before it hits the backstop, when you get close to
a
trued edge.

But I've never heard of those two ideas in anything I've read about
shooting
boards. I've experienced the tearout first hand. is there a detail of
shooting board design I've overlooked?

thanks


--
Saville

Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm