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#1
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Compressed air lines
Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of
minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html I'm looking forward to a shop free of snaking hoses. Greg |
#2
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Groggy wrote:
Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. -- Mortimer Schnerd, RN Will I go boom today? Will I go boom today? Two blew up yesterday; I haven't pumped today. |
#3
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On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
wrote: Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. The line is specifically designed for high pressure compressed air and does not shatter, it isn't PVC. I took to a one inch offcut with a hammer and I only managed to squash it, like hitting copper. cheers, Greg |
#4
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"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message ... Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. -- Mortimer Schnerd, RN Will I go boom today? Will I go boom today? Two blew up yesterday; I haven't pumped today. Did you look at his reference material? The product is designed for exactly the purpose to which he applied it. Polyethylene is NOT PVC. -- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com |
#5
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On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
Groggy wrote: Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. I think the failure mode would be a "burst" rather than a "leak". Think shrapnel. |
#6
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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 21:32:01 GMT, Groggy wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote: Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. The line is specifically designed for high pressure compressed air and does not shatter, it isn't PVC. I took to a one inch offcut with a hammer and I only managed to squash it, like hitting copper. Got a link? I'd like to read about the stuff, I'm tired of dragging hose around. |
#7
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Groggy wrote: Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. snip Buy them books and they eat the covers. Lew |
#8
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Why not just use sections of air hose? Works for me
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#9
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On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
wrote: Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. _WHY_ are you posting this alarmist crap ? It's polyethlene and polypropylene. I've personally installed miles of this stuff into factories worldwide - perfectly reasonable materials to use (a little damage prone, compared to steel, but then it doesn't rust either). Even the gas mains running underneath my street are a very similar material (higher molecular weight, so it welds better). |
#10
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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 20:35:08 GMT, Groggy
calmly ranted: Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Is that the flexible line used for irrigation? Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html Crikey! The same cost in black pipe would have been under $100! I know those are Aussie play dollars, but really, man. (The way Shrub's going, they'll be equal value to ours shortly.) Oh, black pipe is also unscrewable with a small pipe wrench, so it could be moved when you do if you wanted. I'm looking forward to a shop free of snaking hoses. Then why not just hang a pivoting, automatic-retracting reel in the center of the ceiling? -- "Menja bé, caga fort!" |
#11
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Crikey! The same cost in black pipe would have been under $100! I know those are Aussie play dollars, but really, man. Have you priced black pipe lately? Astronomical It would be at least double your estimate |
#12
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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 15:59:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 20:35:08 GMT, Groggy calmly ranted: Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Is that the flexible line used for irrigation? No Idea Larry. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html Crikey! The same cost in black pipe would have been under $100! I know those are Aussie play dollars, but really, man. It doesn't rust. Besides Larry, add up the cost of black pipe, fittings, tooling, thread cutters etc and I think you'll find the difference isn't that great. Assume you don't have the tools - I don't. This took me about 6 hrs to install and will take less than 20 minutes to remove. Black pipe would have taken probably two days with a half day to remove. My daily rate is much more than $200. (The way Shrub's going, they'll be equal value to ours shortly.) Oh, black pipe is also unscrewable with a small pipe wrench, so it could be moved when you do if you wanted. Then why not just hang a pivoting, automatic-retracting reel in the center of the ceiling? I have a 7' 6" ceiling and am 6' 2" - you do the math. Besides I already have too much junk over my head, where I can, I use it for storage of long pieces of timber. Groggy |
#13
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On 5 Jan 2005 21:56:06 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:
Got a link? I'd like to read about the stuff, I'm tired of dragging hose around. To view the pipe: http://www.polair.com.au/tips_install.html http://www.polair.com.au for the actual home page. |
#14
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FYI Larry, in US dollars, McMaster -Carr lists it at $5.97 per foot. I
used 65 feet. 65 x $5.97 = $388.05 Using 126" lengths it is $42.80 per length. I'd need just over 6 lengths, even then it works out at $264.95. Then, you need to buy joiners, saddles, tape or hemp, a cutting tool, deburrer, reducers etc. I think I got a better deal somehow, remember that I paid $290 for everything, including all fittings. Spec used was : Shape Pipe: Pipe Size 1" Finish: Black Steel: Black Welded Steel Pipe to Pipe Connection: NPT Male x Butt-Weld Schedule: 40 Outside Diameter: 1.315" Inside Diameter: 1.049" Wall Thickness: .133" Length: 12" Specifications Met: ASTM A53 and A733 |
#15
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 00:58:50 GMT, Groggy
calmly ranted: I wrote: Is that the flexible line used for irrigation? No Idea Larry. The thin stuff the sell for irrigation could probably be used for air. Was yours hard, like PVC, or soft and flexible? I'm referring to the black (over here) flexible stuff. I'm using 1/2" for my drip irrigation system and 1" for the irrigation canal to flood the lawn (when the neighbors had the pond.) It was about $10-20 for a 100' length. Pics he http://www.digcorp.com/diy/inst_1.htm Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html Crikey! The same cost in black pipe would have been under $100! I know those are Aussie play dollars, but really, man. It doesn't rust. Besides Larry, add up the cost of black pipe, fittings, tooling, thread cutters etc and I think you'll find the difference isn't that great. Assume you don't have the tools - I Have the plumbing supply shop cut and thread any non-standard lengths. Buck apiece? Here, the metal and plastic pipe fittings are all about the same price ($1-2 each) so there wouldn't be much difference. And pipe comes in pieces sized from flush nipples, 1", 2", 3", 6", 1', 2', 3', 4', and 10' at the smaller stores, 20' at the plumbing supply shop. It wouldn't be hard to size something without cutting. I assume you have a simple pipe wrench or a pair of channel locks, which would be the only specialized tool needed other than the masonry bit for drilling into concrete walls. I just don't see how they got the gall to give that awful price to you. Ouch! don't. This took me about 6 hrs to install and will take less than 20 minutes to remove. Black pipe would have taken probably two days with a half day to remove. My daily rate is much more than $200. What, that length of time for sixty five feet worth? I'm talking 1/2 or 3/4-inch pipe he light, inexpensive, and easy to wrangle. I have a 7' 6" ceiling and am 6' 2" - you do the math. Besides I already have too much junk over my head, where I can, I use it for storage of long pieces of timber. Gotcha. Anyway, enjoy your new air, Grogs. It sure is handy, innit? -- "Menja bé, caga fort!" |
#16
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"Dave Hinz" wrote in message ... On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote: Groggy wrote: Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. I think the failure mode would be a "burst" rather than a "leak". Think shrapnel. Think polyethelene, not PVC. Over the road trucks use polyethelene tubing for air lines for minor things like brakes! We used poly for air lines on machine tools twenty years ago. Good stuff. Greg |
#17
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"Groggy" wrote in message ... FYI Larry, in US dollars, McMaster -Carr lists it at $5.97 per foot. I used 65 feet. 65 x $5.97 = $388.05 Using 126" lengths it is $42.80 per length. I'd need just over 6 lengths, even then it works out at $264.95. Then, you need to buy joiners, saddles, tape or hemp, a cutting tool, deburrer, reducers etc. Better places to buy black pipe than MC, prices are probably 3X of what I can buy it for. But for the ease of installation, you did good! Greg |
#18
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"Greg O" wrote in message ... Better places to buy black pipe than MC, prices are probably 3X of what I can buy it for. But for the ease of installation, you did good! Greg Pipe has skyrocketed in the past year. I called the plumbing supply about a length of 4" pipe and was shocked at the price. (IIRC, it was about $12 a foot!) He said the mills are not even giving prices when you order, it will be determined at the time of shipment. MC is a little high, but not the 3X you stated. |
#19
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On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
wrote: Groggy wrote: Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. Doing a google search turned up nothing in the US quite like this product, but I did find this: http://www.garage-pak.com/ This is, I think, aluminum. I turned up one forum where several complaints were lodged over the high cost. On their web site they have a link for more information. I used it, and got an email back saying a rep will contact me. I was unable to locate any 'dealers'. This may be a good product but I automatically distrust and discount anyone who isn't up front about their pricing. |
#20
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In article , Groggy
wrote: FYI Larry, in US dollars, McMaster -Carr lists it at $5.97 per foot. I used 65 feet. 65 x $5.97 = $388.05 McMaster-Carr and Grainger are industrial sources. In other words, they're the source for "If you've got to have it RIGHT NOW and the boss is paying for it, we're your source!" They've got everything, and can deliver it on the next UPS truck. But they're not the best source for comparing prices on anything. Kevin |
#21
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There has been some discussion over the prices I paid for the fittings
and pipe for the compressed air lines. Below is a breakdown in AU$ with US$ equivalent alongside: (View in fixed width font) Polair Polypropylene products Poly pipe 25mm x 6m (4 @ $29) $116 (US$88.38) Poly threaded Tee 25mm x 1/2 (5 @ $11) $55 (US$41.90) Poly threaded end 25mm x 1/2 (3 @ $8) $24 (US$18.29) Poly elbow 25mm equal (3 @ $10) $30 (US$22.83) Poly threaded elbow 25mm x 1/2 (1 @ $8.70) $8.70 (US$6.62) Poly clip 25mm (20 @ $2) $40 (US$30.45) general air fitting and hardware reducing nipples 1/2 to 1/4 brass (4 @ $2.90) $11.60 (US$8.82) ball valve 1/4 F-F yellow handle (3 @ $10) $30.00 (US$22.83) nitto coupling 1/2 male (5 @ $15) $75.00 (US$57.09) nitto coupling 1/4 male (1 @ $14) $14.00 (US$10.66) Ramset wall screws 12G x 50 mm (1 @ $7) $7.00 (US$5.33) Total $411.30 (US$313.08) Less US$22 for one length of pipe returned surplus (US$291.08) |
#22
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... I wrote: Is that the flexible line used for irrigation? No Idea Larry. The thin stuff the sell for irrigation could probably be used for air. Was yours hard, like PVC, or soft and flexible? I'm referring to the black (over here) flexible stuff. I'm using 1/2" for my drip irrigation system and 1" for the irrigation canal to flood the lawn (when the neighbors had the pond.) It was about $10-20 for a 100' length. Pics he http://www.digcorp.com/diy/inst_1.htm Larry, that definitely is NOT it. That is low pressure water pipe, I have some here too. This pipe is blue and is about 3/8" wall thickness. Have the plumbing supply shop cut and thread any non-standard lengths. Buck apiece? Here, the metal and plastic pipe fittings are all about the same price ($1-2 each) so there wouldn't be much difference. And pipe comes in pieces sized from flush nipples, 1", 2", 3", 6", 1', 2', 3', 4', and 10' at the smaller stores, 20' at the plumbing supply shop. It wouldn't be hard to size something without cutting. I assume you have a simple pipe wrench or a pair of channel locks, which would be the only specialized tool needed other than the masonry bit for drilling into concrete walls. I just don't see how they got the gall to give that awful price to you. Ouch! Check my price post. don't. This took me about 6 hrs to install and will take less than 20 minutes to remove. Black pipe would have taken probably two days with a half day to remove. My daily rate is much more than $200. What, that length of time for sixty five feet worth? I'm talking 1/2 or 3/4-inch pipe he light, inexpensive, and easy to wrangle. I have a 7' 6" ceiling and am 6' 2" - you do the math. Besides I already have too much junk over my head, where I can, I use it for storage of long pieces of timber. Gotcha. Anyway, enjoy your new air, Grogs. It sure is handy, innit? -- "Menja bé, caga fort!" |
#23
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 12:01:52 GMT, "Groggy"
calmly ranted: It was about $10-20 for a 100' length. Pics he http://www.digcorp.com/diy/inst_1.htm Larry, that definitely is NOT it. That is low pressure water pipe, I have some here too. This pipe is blue and is about 3/8" wall thickness. Gotcha. But low-pressure water pipe is 4x underrated for safety. When it says 90psi, it can handle 360. I saw other tubing listed by other makers in 3, 5, 7, and 13mm wall and think it would be easier to use than black iron pipe. But I have an 8.5' ceiling (thank goodness) so an air drop would work for me I already hang an electrical extension cord from there so I can use power hand tools on any given machine. I just don't see how they got the gall to give that awful price to you. Ouch! Check my price post. A those prices, I'm certainly not going to buy pipe from McMaster. It's much cheaper from my local plumbing/electrical supply store. ($8.95 for 10' of 1/2", $9.95 for 10' of 3/4", didn't price 1") Here's how I use 3/4" pipe in my shop today, floor through ceiling: http://www.diversify.com/wood/sheetgoodcart.jpg -- "Menja bé, caga fort!" |
#24
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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 20:35:08 GMT, Groggy
wrote: Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html I'm looking forward to a shop free of snaking hoses. Greg ======================================== Hate to say it BUT I think you missed a lot of information over the years you have been following the PVC vs Black pipe threads... I restore cars as a hobby..and to be truthful I could not live without using air tools... and there is absolutely no way I would be inside my garage whle those PVC lines were pressurized... Sorry BUT using PVC is not a smart move... nor is is any cheaper then using black pipe ... Bob Griffiths |
#25
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 08:15:13 GMT, Groggy
This is my second post within this thread... I will have to retract (for now) what I said in my first post...at least until I do a little research on Polyethelene .. PVC is something I would never use for air lines.. have to withoold my judgement on polyethelene... BUT black pipe is still my choice. at this time... Bob Griffiths .... .. |
#26
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On Thu, 6 Jan 2005 10:02:47 -0800, ted harris wrote:
In newsave Hinz typed: I think the failure mode would be a "burst" rather than a "leak". Think shrapnel. There you go thinking again...instead of researching. And yet, when I'm guessing, I say so rather than pretending I'm stating fact. Ahem. |
#27
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In newsave Hinz typed:
I think the failure mode would be a "burst" rather than a "leak". Think shrapnel. There you go thinking again...instead of researching. -- Ted Harris http://www.tedharris.com |
#28
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Groggy wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:03:22 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote: Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd be better off if that line DID leak. The line is specifically designed for high pressure compressed air and does not shatter, it isn't PVC. I took to a one inch offcut with a hammer and I only managed to squash it, like hitting copper. Is that stuff similar to the tubing seen in soda dispensing systems? If so, it'll probably work fine. How much would copper cost for the identical installation? Barry |
#29
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Kevin Craig wrote:
McMaster-Carr and Grainger are industrial sources. In other words, they're the source for "If you've got to have it RIGHT NOW and the boss is paying for it, we're your source!" Our company gets significant discounts from either source's list price. Barry |
#30
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Looking for supplier for pricing in US. Here is what I found so far. I
didm't find a comprehensive system like the OP had found. http://www.asahi-america.com/product...ipingSystem_ip http://www.ipexinc.com/Content/EN_CA...ressed_air.asp http://www.festo.com/INetDomino/coor...8300488894.htm http://www.1stindustrialdirectory.co...ed_Air_50.html http://www.parker.com/automationgrou...msBrochure.pdf http://www.wilson-company.com/pneumatics.htm http://www.parker.com/pneumatic not sure if this will be helpful. "Groggy" wrote in message ... Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html I'm looking forward to a shop free of snaking hoses. Greg |
#31
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thoughts on using copper?
"Groggy" wrote in message ... Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. At the end of the day I ran it up to 150PSI and didn't get a hint of a leak. One of the things that attracted me to this setup was the fact that if I move house I simply unscrew the system by hand and take it with me. Cost: US$290 for 65' of 1" pipe, 4 Ts, 4 elbows, 5 stop cocks, associated fitting connectors and mounting saddles. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html I'm looking forward to a shop free of snaking hoses. Greg |
#32
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Bob G. writes:
On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 20:35:08 GMT, Groggy Yesterday I spent the day putting in 5 outlets. The piping was polyethlene with polypropylene fittings. Connection was very easy, cut with SCMS and tighten nut by hand - that's it. Greg ======================================== Hate to say it BUT I think you missed a lot of information over the years you have been following the PVC vs Black pipe threads... Hate to say it BUT I think you missed the part of Greg's post where he stated that he used polyethelene. PVC is polyvinyl chloride. Polyethelene != PVC. scott |
#33
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Subject
Having designed and installed a few compressed air distribution for industrial application, will offer the following: 1) The distribution plumbing is part of the storage system. 2) The larger the pipe used, the slower the air travels down the pipe. 3) The slower the air travels down the pipe, the less water it can carry to the tool since the air is also cooler. 4) If the air must reverse direction, it will help trapped water drop out of the air. 5) The less water, the less problems and the longer the life of the equipment. Based on the above, consider the following: 1) Find a plumbing supply house or plumbing contractor that will work with you. You would be surprised what a case of beer after 5:00 PM can accomplish if approached in the right manner. 2) Cut a full 20 ft length of 2" pipe (THAT'S RIGHT, 2 INCH PIPE) into either 4 or 8 equal pieces and thread both ends of each piece as required. 3) Assemble the cut pieces together to reform the 20 ft length using 2"x2"x3/4" reducing tees (2" run x 2" run x 3/4" side). 4) Assemble so that 3/4" openings are all facing the same direction.(I use nothing but Teflon paste as a pipe dope for threaded pipe) 5) On one end, assemble a 2"x2"2" tee using the side connection. Assemble so that 2" openings are lined up with the 3/4" openings. 6) Plug the 2" opening that is on the same side as the 3/4" openings. 7) On the opposite 2" opening install a petcock fitting that can be used as a drain using required reducing bushings. 8) On the opposite end of the 20 ft assembly, install another 2"x2"x2" tee, exactly as was done on the opposite end. 9) Plug the top opening (3/4" side) with a 2" plug. 10) The bottom fitting will be where the hose from the compressor will be connected. 11) At each 3/4" side tee opening, install two (2), 3/4" street ells such that the air must change direction 180 degrees. 12) Hang this assembly using pipe hangers and threaded rod with the 3/4" side openings facing up and the hole thing pitched about 1 to 12 with the drain petcock on the low end. 13) Connect tool hoses as required. Plug any unused openings. 14) Connect the compressor to the pipe using at least a 3/4" hose. (You may have to have this hose made up, is so, use 1") Don't be surprised if this isn't the most expensive item in the system. You have just accomplished several things: 1) Storage capacity is increased about 3.25 gallons for every 20 ft of 2" pipe installed which has lots of benefits. When it comes to storage, more is better. 2) The pipe serves as a great water trap as well as delivering cooler air to the tool. (The secret is the reversal of the air and the size of the pipe) 3) All tool hoses hang straight down thus reducing stress reversals of the hose. 4) The cyclic loading on the compressor is reduced since storage capacity is increased, thus helping to reduce the temperature of the delivered air. (Lower temperature, less water) As the old saying goes, there ain't no free lunch, but this is an investment that will pay on big dividends over the years. Just to clarify: 1) All pipe is Sch 40, black iron. 2) All fittings are 125/150 lb, black iron. Enjoy, Lew |
#34
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On Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:32:58 -0800, "ted harris"
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email So by your philosophy it's easier to go through life guessing rather than finding out the facts. hmmmmm...Not easier, but how many facts have been discovered because somebody acted on a hunch or followed up a guess? As long as the guess is presented clarly as one, there should be lots of room for them. I say this as somebody who continually gets ****ed off with my wife. She, apparently is Intuitive, and I am Sensate. She makes AN answer, while I stand around and try to find out THE answer. We both get it wrong...G |
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On Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:32:58 -0800, "ted harris"
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email So by your philosophy it's easier to go through life guessing rather than finding out the facts. hmmmmm...Not easier, but how many facts have been discovered because somebody acted on a hunch or followed up a guess? As long as the guess is presented clarly as one, there should be lots of room for them. I say this as somebody who continually gets ****ed off with my wife. She, apparently is Intuitive, and I am Sensate. She makes AN answer, while I stand around and try to find out THE answer. We both get it wrong...G |
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 21:22:11 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote: Subject Having designed and installed a few compressed air distribution for industrial application, will offer the following: 1) The distribution plumbing is part of the storage system. 2) The larger the pipe used, the slower the air travels down the pipe. 3) The slower the air travels down the pipe, the less water it can carry to the tool since the air is also cooler. 4) If the air must reverse direction, it will help trapped water drop out of the air. 5) The less water, the less problems and the longer the life of the equipment. snip Excellent post Lew, I wish I'd read it before installing my system as there are a few things I'd do differently. A few tips given to me by the installer/sales guy were 1,2,3 and 5. Plus he mentioned the plastic is more thermally stable than pipe. The other tip he gave was to coil the hose from the compressor to the system on the concrete as it will help cool the air somewhat before it went into the main line. I did consider using 2" to 4" pipe but I had to run it behind a roller door where I didn't have the space available. Your post would make a good FAQ. cheers, Greg |
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 21:22:11 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote: Subject Having designed and installed a few compressed air distribution for industrial application, will offer the following: 1) The distribution plumbing is part of the storage system. 2) The larger the pipe used, the slower the air travels down the pipe. 3) The slower the air travels down the pipe, the less water it can carry to the tool since the air is also cooler. 4) If the air must reverse direction, it will help trapped water drop out of the air. 5) The less water, the less problems and the longer the life of the equipment. snip Excellent post Lew, I wish I'd read it before installing my system as there are a few things I'd do differently. A few tips given to me by the installer/sales guy were 1,2,3 and 5. Plus he mentioned the plastic is more thermally stable than pipe. The other tip he gave was to coil the hose from the compressor to the system on the concrete as it will help cool the air somewhat before it went into the main line. I did consider using 2" to 4" pipe but I had to run it behind a roller door where I didn't have the space available. Your post would make a good FAQ. cheers, Greg |
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 11:11:56 -0500, Bob G.
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 08:15:13 GMT, Groggy This is my second post within this thread... I will have to retract (for now) what I said in my first post...at least until I do a little research on Polyethelene .. PVC is something I would never use for air lines.. have to withoold my judgement on polyethelene... BUT black pipe is still my choice. at this time... PE is semi-soft, and extremely tough. My truck has PE airlines all over it for brakes etc. To be rated for air, at 1" it will probably be quite thick as well. _If_ it bursts, it will simply split open, with very little if any shrapnel. There would be danger of the pipe flying away under pressure if not securely anchored. Any flexible airline is a far greater danger in the shop. I had one where the end fitting came off. It had a tankful of 150 PSI air to help it along. Luckily it wrapped itself after only 10 long seconds. I left the shed and waited for it to work itself out. Luckily it was only a small compressor, which could not keep up the pressure. |
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 11:11:56 -0500, Bob G.
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 08:15:13 GMT, Groggy This is my second post within this thread... I will have to retract (for now) what I said in my first post...at least until I do a little research on Polyethelene .. PVC is something I would never use for air lines.. have to withoold my judgement on polyethelene... BUT black pipe is still my choice. at this time... PE is semi-soft, and extremely tough. My truck has PE airlines all over it for brakes etc. To be rated for air, at 1" it will probably be quite thick as well. _If_ it bursts, it will simply split open, with very little if any shrapnel. There would be danger of the pipe flying away under pressure if not securely anchored. Any flexible airline is a far greater danger in the shop. I had one where the end fitting came off. It had a tankful of 150 PSI air to help it along. Luckily it wrapped itself after only 10 long seconds. I left the shed and waited for it to work itself out. Luckily it was only a small compressor, which could not keep up the pressure. |
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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 20:35:08 GMT, Groggy
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Over the years the threads on using PVC vs black pipe have been of minor interest to me as, 'one day' , I intended to put lines in the shop. http://www.polair.com.au/index.html My only comment is about their flow rates. AFAICS there was no distance given. ??? Makes a lot of difference. |
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