So I was ordering several goodies from LV last week (chisels, One Way Talon
Chuck) and at the last minute decided I should make sure there isn't
something else I just have to have right now (yeah right). Bingo Inlay Kit!
Yes yes, $8 and I really want one... Well it got here a couple days ago,
and I'm just now getting around to giving it a try.

The good news is, it's precision machined brass, just like I've come to
expect from LV. Bad news it's 1.75" and doesn't fit the template guide
mount on my PC 8529? Quick call to to LV technical support and Carolin
tells me the bad news which I already know. It's not designed to fit my
porter cable (or any other router I guess as they all have the same size
mount, I think). It's designed to go into the Veritas Base Plate (or
Adapter Base Plate). Isn't this weird? I've read a lot of router books and
have never seen anyone suggest doing inlay work "upside down" with the work
on top of the router table.

She offered to have me send it back, but I've become attached to it now.
I'm not wanting to spend good money after bad and get their base plate, as
I've made a lot already and this one would only serve to mount this guide.
I'm a little hesitant to attempt to make a base plate to mount it because it
seems all the precision is dependant on the bit being perfectly centered in
the guide.

Any suggestions?

Kevin in Bakersfield

P.S. And no, I don't think using it as any kind of body art is an option
for me.

Any suggestions?

It's not that difficult to make an accurately centered baseplate. Use your
existing base as a template for the mounting screws. Load a centering bit
with the new base mounted, and lower the router until the point just kisses
the base material. This will give you a precise center marker. You can then
use a Forstner bit of the appropriate size to create the opening. I've made
a few baseplates this way and they're all more accurate than a factory
plate.

Kevin wrote:

Any suggestions?

If I'm understanding the online catalog, the templare guide is
7/16" and you also have a ring nut and a 7/16" inlay bushing.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=47249&category=1,43000
shows guide rings and nuts that are supposed to fit all
Porter-Cable routers. Part 46J91.14 is a 7/16" guide ring that
should work with your inlay bushing - and LV lists it for US$3.20
and the ring nut is 46J91.11 and costs US$1.90

You might check with Carolin to make sure that this is a workable
solution.

And if Robin is lurking: Would it make sense to offer that same
inlay bushing as a separate item on the page with the PC stuff?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

In article , "mp"
wrote:

Any suggestions?

It's not that difficult to make an accurately centered baseplate. Use your
existing base as a template for the mounting screws. Load a centering bit
with the new base mounted, and lower the router until the point just kisses
the base material. This will give you a precise center marker. You can then
use a Forstner bit of the appropriate size to create the opening. I've made
a few baseplates this way and they're all more accurate than a factory
plate.



I do that often. I use left over chunks of acrylic solid surface
countertop. Most fabshops will give you sink cut-outs for free,
especially the vanity-bowl sizes... Make sure they are acrylic.
When lowering the router, keep the clamping action of the motor body as
tight as possible while lowering the bit. On bigger PC production
routers, if you undo the tension of the motor, there is about 3/32 worth
of slop in it.
I make square router bases for travelling along fences. After I make
the base, I shave off 1/64 of one side of the square base and mark it.
Then, when I am jointing an edge of a board with a router bit and fence
combo, I twist the whole unit to the marked edge of the base, slide it
against to fence to shave off a perfect whisper of material. Here is an
expensive way to do that:
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bi...gi?page=solid_
surface/cc-base.html&cart_id=3250786_27802

I also make my own wavey-bit bases for TrueMatch routerbits. Centering
is not important on those, but the 1/8th height difference is crucial.
Another costlier way to do that:
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bi...gi?page=seamin
g/wavy.html&cart_id=3250786_27802

Rob

"Robin Lee" wrote in message
...

Hi Kevin -

Contact Customer service again - return the guide and ring nut (keep the
rest of the parts) - and ask for 46J91.16 (7/16 template guide for PC
routers) and 46J91.11 ring nut....

Same parts - PC sizes.....same price....

Cheers -

Rob

(they'll be expecting your call)


Rob, I'm so impressed with your products and service. I forgot to mention
before that customer service answered the phone on the second ring and the
very first person I spoke to (Carolin) knew exactly what I was talking
about. The company I work for also has a customer support department and I
know just how hard this is to do.

The machine work is so much better than the PC set of guides I have, I'm
going to order the whole set of 8 guides. I might as well, since I have to
order one of those Graduated Micro-Adjust Marking Guages anyway!

Kevin in Bakersfield

Robin Lee wrote:

ask for 46J91.16 (7/16 template guide for PC routers) and
46J91.11 ring nut....

Rob...

You know your products better than do I; but in your online catalog:

"F. 46J91.16 5/8" 17/32" 9/16" $3.20"

doesn't look like it'll accept a 7/16" guide bushing. How about:

"D. 46J91.14 7/16" 11/32" 5/32" $3.20"

instead?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article , "mp"
wrote:

Any suggestions?

It's not that difficult to make an accurately centered baseplate. Use
your
existing base as a template for the mounting screws. Load a centering bit
with the new base mounted, and lower the router until the point just
kisses
the base material. This will give you a precise center marker. You can
then
use a Forstner bit of the appropriate size to create the opening. I've
made
a few baseplates this way and they're all more accurate than a factory
plate.



I do that often. I use left over chunks of acrylic solid surface
countertop. Most fabshops will give you sink cut-outs for free,
especially the vanity-bowl sizes... Make sure they are acrylic.
When lowering the router, keep the clamping action of the motor body as
tight as possible while lowering the bit. On bigger PC production
routers, if you undo the tension of the motor, there is about 3/32 worth
of slop in it.
I make square router bases for travelling along fences. After I make
the base, I shave off 1/64 of one side of the square base and mark it.
Then, when I am jointing an edge of a board with a router bit and fence
combo, I twist the whole unit to the marked edge of the base, slide it
against to fence to shave off a perfect whisper of material. Here is an
expensive way to do that:
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bi...gi?page=solid_
surface/cc-base.html&cart_id=3250786_27802

I also make my own wavey-bit bases for TrueMatch routerbits. Centering
is not important on those, but the 1/8th height difference is crucial.
Another costlier way to do that:
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bi...gi?page=seamin
g/wavy.html&cart_id=3250786_27802

Rob

I'm going to get the whole set of template guides from LV, just because they
are so much nicer than the PC set I've been using, but I've decided to go a
head a keep the 04J26.01. I started thinking what I might try is to create
a nice base plate for my DW673 trim router (which I use rarely) and just
keep it setup for inlay work instead of using the jumbo plunge PC8529. I'll
have to think about this, at 1.75" this template guide is almost as big as
the existing base on the DW673.

Kevin in Bakersfield

Robin Lee wrote:

Good spot Morris - my goof, I put the wrong product number! Better stick
with my real job...

No, no, no! The job you do (both on and off the web) is much
appreciated. No changes please.

(Except that I really would appreciate if you guys would look for
opportunities to use non-rusting alloys/metals for your tools -
especially squares and plane bodies!

AND that I'd be really pleased if you opened a store down my way

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Yea, we need a store here in Ohio too. Or maybe just a big brige across
Lake Erie! --dave



"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Robin Lee wrote:

Good spot Morris - my goof, I put the wrong product number! Better stick
with my real job...

No, no, no! The job you do (both on and off the web) is much appreciated.
No changes please.

(Except that I really would appreciate if you guys would look for
opportunities to use non-rusting alloys/metals for your tools - especially
squares and plane bodies!

AND that I'd be really pleased if you opened a store down my way

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html