Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with a 7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template. It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries? Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint template.

toller wrote:
Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually
needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with
a 7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template.
It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries?
Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint
template.


Toller,

Why did you choose the omnijig over the akeda or leigh? Just curious
....

Has anyone used the new Porter Cable dovetail jigs? The look like they
are better made then their predecessors, but are made out of stamped
steel (1/8") instead of extruded aluminum. 4212 model comes with more
template capabilities for a fairly small incremental price increase.
Joe

Why did you choose the omnijig over the akeda or leigh? Just curious
...
I rejected the leigh as too complicated. I was all set to buy the Akeeda
when Amazon dropped the price on the omnijig to $295; or $200 less than the
Akeeda. I couldn't resist the price break.

I wanted the Akeeda because it does a greater variety of dovetails and has
dust collection. However the omnijig is a better setup for standard
halfblind and is 24" long. I could have gone either way, but $200 is $200.

I thought about the new PC jigs, but you have to feel the Omnijig to believe
it. I just doubt that the new ones have the same precision.

"toller" wrote in message
...
Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with a
7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template. It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries? Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint
template.


Nothing new. Principle is gap equal to remaining wood, evenly spaced. May
vary with other jigs, though.

Making box joints on a router table is simplicity itself, with any size bit.
I wouldn't buy a box joint template for the jig.

Nothing new. Principle is gap equal to remaining wood, evenly spaced.
May
vary with other jigs, though.

I know the concept is not new; many of the jigs have box joint templates
available. I was wondering if anyone had tried a 15/64" bit with the
standard dovetail template.

Just got a call from my local woodcraft dealer. He just got the new PC
jigs in (4212). I went to the store and we opened one to review. The
difference between them and the current version (4112) is like night
and day. They are heavy and built like tanks. They come with all the
templates you need, in addition to depth stops, two bushings, two
carbide tip bits, and the cam levers found on their more expensive
jigs. They were very nice indeed. The 4112 I purchased at a discount
is on it's way back!

Joe

"toller" writes:

I know the concept is not new; many of the jigs have box joint templates
available. I was wondering if anyone had tried a 15/64" bit with the
standard dovetail template.

I don't want to rain on your parade but if there is a simpler method than a
table saw equipped with the appropriate dado, a decent sled and spacing jig
from scraps, to build box joints, I haven't seen it.

The box joint with all it's many variations, probably has most favored joint
status around boat yards.

As an example, if you want to have some fun, try making a wooden shower
grate, say 30" x 40", from 4/4 or 5/4, teak or old growth cypress without
using a dado and a sled.

BTW, have fun with your new piece of equipment.

Lew

"toller" wrote in
:

I wanted the Akeeda because it does a greater variety of dovetails and
has dust collection. However the omnijig is a better setup for
standard halfblind and is 24" long. I could have gone either way, but
$200 is $200.


Actually, $200 is a new router you can leave set up to _exactly_ the
settings you finally dial in for half-blind dovies... Or TWO new, fixed
speed PC690's at the sale prices, if you can find them.

Patriarch,
Akeda owner, but learning the quiet joys of the Adria dovetail saw.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
As an example, if you want to have some fun, try making a wooden shower
grate, say 30" x 40", from 4/4 or 5/4, teak or old growth cypress without
using a dado and a sled.


We did and in fact had several to do out of teak but I have
to confess that we had a "coupla hunnert dollar" CNC router
do all the cutting. Still, wooden shower grates (we called
them Duck Boards) were/are a pain in the ass.

UA100

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 20:49:31 GMT, "toller" wrote:

Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with a 7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template. It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries? Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint template.


It is common. I have found my tablesaw does an excellent job with
cutting box joints. Three pieces of wood from the scrap pile and a
screw makes the jig. Several books have the details.

I know there are box joint jigs for router tables and table saws, and box
joint templates for dovetail jigs. I am not claiming to have invented box
joints. (unlike Al Gore and the Internet)

I was simply asking if anyone has used the standard 7/16" dovetail template
to make box joints with a 15/64" bit.

"Unisaw A100" writes:

We did and in fact had several to do out of teak but I have
to confess that we had a "coupla hunnert dollar" CNC router
do all the cutting. Still, wooden shower grates (we called
them Duck Boards) were/are a pain in the ass.

That's cheating; however, I must admit that having access to a universal
milling machine equipped /w/ electronic, X-Y positioning sure beats the hell
out of using a drill press.G

Lew





UA100

I have an Omnijig and I was wondering where you came
up with the idea of using a 15/64" straight bit, which
is a VERY odd sized bit...

That's a pretty small box joint.


I saw the box joint template being used in the video but
haven't decided on buying the template yet...


toller wrote:

Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with a 7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template. It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries? Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint template.

I went and looked at the Freud site...

http://www.freudtools.com/woodworker...traight_1.html

They don't sell any bits in the 64's...

Where are you buying your bits ????

toller wrote:

Needing to play with my new toy (a 24" omnijig), but not actually needing
any dovetails at the moment; I found that a 15/64" straight bit with a 7/16"
guide cuts a perfect box joint with the standard dovetail template. It is
good for up to 1/2" wood.

Have I discovered this, or have people been doing it for centuries? Okay,
it is not a big deal, but it is cheaper than buying the box joint template.

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
I have an Omnijig and I was wondering where you came
up with the idea of using a 15/64" straight bit, which
is a VERY odd sized bit...

That's a pretty small box joint.


I saw the box joint template being used in the video but
haven't decided on buying the template yet...

I just did the math; what bit and guide would come together and give equal
spaces with the dovetail template. I came up with 1/2" bit and 7/16" guide.
I had both, but it was a pretty sloppy fit. Oh well. I bought a 15/32" bit
(from Cheyenne Sales) and it is tight but adequate fit.

It is a 7/16" joint, which is only a little smaller than the 1/2 box joint
template. One drawback is that it is 1/2" thick max, but how often would
you use a box joint on something thicker than that?

If you happen to have a 7/16" bit, it "might" work with the 5/8" guide, but
I haven't tried it since I don't have the bit.

Or, you can just spend $70 on the box joint template and miss out on the
thrill of discovery.