Anyone have this saw?
I bought one today because it was a great deal.
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
Before I open the box I wouldn't mind opinion on it's accuracy.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.

Rick,

I bought one. Nicely made saw. The laser was nice, but the switch was
enough of a pain that I took it back. It was a rocker switch, but it
was real uncomfortable to push and hold. It has to be held to work.

Joe


wrote:
Anyone have this saw?
I bought one today because it was a great deal.
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more
money.
Before I open the box I wouldn't mind opinion on it's accuracy.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.

You can get the Delta for around $255 right now from Amazon

So, how much was the PC??

John

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 11:33:57 -0800,
wrote:


Anyone have this saw?
I bought one today because it was a great deal.
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
Before I open the box I wouldn't mind opinion on it's accuracy.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.

wrote in message
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.

Does that mean they are not identical then?

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 04:02:01 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


wrote in message
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.

Does that mean they are not identical then?

Other than the blade and a $40 higher price tag I could find no difference.

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 11:33:57 -0800,
wrote:


Anyone have this saw?
I bought one today because it was a great deal.
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
Before I open the box I wouldn't mind opinion on it's accuracy.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.


It's a poor saw and I have no idea why you dared
trust your own judgement to buy it.

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 07:42:25 -0500, GregP wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 11:33:57 -0800,
wrote:


Anyone have this saw?
I bought one today because it was a great deal.
I was surprised to see Delta has the IDENTICAL saw for lots more money.
Before I open the box I wouldn't mind opinion on it's accuracy.
It comes with a 40 tooth blade. The Delta had a sixty tooth.


It's a poor saw and I have no idea why you dared
trust your own judgement to buy it.

Smartass.
Usually I do a bit of research before investing in a tool, but in this case I
saw it, I bought it. It was an impulse purchase.
That's the reason for asking here/now before I set it up.
Accuracy is what I'm looking for, something seriously lacking in my 10"
Craftsman.

wrote:

[snip]
Smartass.
Usually I do a bit of research before investing in a tool, but in this case I
saw it, I bought it. It was an impulse purchase.
That's the reason for asking here/now before I set it up.
Accuracy is what I'm looking for, something seriously lacking in my 10"
Craftsman.

I would be interested in the answer to the accuracy question. I had a
Craftsman CMS which became a job site saw rather quickly. Noticed that
when one moves the saw off 90deg, it is no longer perpendicular to the
table. Same problem with a much later model Ridgid that had been
brought to a job site. Amazed another couple of old farts that had
never noticed that "feature".

mahalo,
jo4hn

I have the Delta version, the PC model is identical. Either saw can be
offered with a carbide blade as an upgrade from time to time. The list
prices are the same but the discounts on the saws vary from time to
time. All things being equal I would go for whichever is cheapest after
whatever discounts apply to you and ditch the blade it came with
regardless of whether it is carbide or whatever.

The saw usually comes with an extension fence & table to the left of
the blade. The extra room is handy if you don't have a mitre saw table
(which I don't yet) but otherwise its not much point.

Mine came with the carbide blade but the cuts it made never compared to
the ones I got on my table saw until I replaced the Delta blade with a
Freud Diablo. After that the cuts are almost as good as I get on my
table saw with a Woodworker II.

The laser lines help speed up a lot of tasks, the first thing I used it
on was building a set of handrails for some outside steps. Saved
several hours in marking &ct. If I need to do something that is really
accurate I do some test cuts to work out exactly where the blade is
relative to the kerf but thats only necessary if you have to be
accurate to better than 1/16 and the thickness of the laser kerf starts
to matter.

If you have to hold the laser switch in to operate then the saw is
broken. I leave mine on all the time so that it serves a double purpose
telling me that the saw is powered.

On 26 Dec 2004 09:54:25 -0800, "Phillip Hallam-Baker" wrote:

I have the Delta version, the PC model is identical. Either saw can be
offered with a carbide blade as an upgrade from time to time. The list
prices are the same but the discounts on the saws vary from time to
time. All things being equal I would go for whichever is cheapest after
whatever discounts apply to you and ditch the blade it came with
regardless of whether it is carbide or whatever.

The saw usually comes with an extension fence & table to the left of
the blade. The extra room is handy if you don't have a mitre saw table
(which I don't yet) but otherwise its not much point.

Don't you need the extension to fasten the higher fence on the left side?

Mine came with the carbide blade but the cuts it made never compared to
the ones I got on my table saw until I replaced the Delta blade with a
Freud Diablo. After that the cuts are almost as good as I get on my
table saw with a Woodworker II.

What is a good 12" blade worth $$? This is my first 12" saw.


The laser lines help speed up a lot of tasks, the first thing I used it
on was building a set of handrails for some outside steps. Saved
several hours in marking &ct. If I need to do something that is really
accurate I do some test cuts to work out exactly where the blade is
relative to the kerf but thats only necessary if you have to be
accurate to better than 1/16 and the thickness of the laser kerf starts
to matter.

If you have to hold the laser switch in to operate then the saw is
broken. I leave mine on all the time so that it serves a double purpose
telling me that the saw is powered.