for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.


OK, how about pins?

UA100

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700,
wrote:


The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

I like drilling 1 1/2" holes in a strip, ripping it in half, and
gluing it inside the case. A moving support is the fashioned to fit
into the slots between the 1/2 circles. The shelf sits on the
support.

Barry

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700,
wrote:

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

How about metal rail with clips ? I've seen one system that used a
narrow, deep channel-section rail that went into a groove and wasn't
visible from the front. Don't know where it came from though.

wrote in message
...
for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

I generally use the slotted metal rails that I put into a routed channel,
but if this is what you're say will not work, then how about a little more
information. A better description of the project would be helpful, as would
the reasons why various solutions would be inappropriate.
--

-Mike-

Unisaw A100 wrote:
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.


OK, how about pins?

UA100

If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.

RonB

for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

Can you drill 1/4" holes spaced every inch or so and use shelf pins to
support the shelves? The pins come in plastic and metal and a variety of
shapes and colors.

Shelf pins don't provide the fine adjustability that the metal shelf
standards do, but they work great for most situations.

Anthony

I'll be astounded if you can understand this from the description. I am
posting a pic of a shelf support in our old side-by-side on ABPW.

RonB


"RonB" wrote in message
news:0lFrd.81200$EZ.60682@okepread07...
If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.

RonB

I made a jig using a 5/8 drill on a drill press. I drilled 5/8 holes every 1
1/4 using a fence and an indexing peg. The jig is 4 feet long. I added a
tailpiece that was threaded so I can index at the bottom of the work piece.
The jig was 6 inches wide and the holes were drilled 2 inches on center in
from an edge. You can align either edge against your work and get a 2 inch
or 4 inch inset. The jig took a couple of hours to make and the hard parts
were the edge guides and tailpiece.
Oh yeah, you use a plunge router with a 5/8 template guide. You can use 1/4
inch spiral or 5 mm or whatever size you want in the router. I then drew
lines through every other hole so I can choose to skip a hole of use them
all.

max

for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

In article ,
wrote:

for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

I posted a rendering in ABPW, I hope you can see it.
I use this design in all kinds of sizes.

Rob

what is ABPW?

yeah, I need to "see" it ;-)

On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 08:43:25 -0600, "RonB" wrote:

I'll be astounded if you can understand this from the description. I am
posting a pic of a shelf support in our old side-by-side on ABPW.

RonB


"RonB" wrote in message
news:0lFrd.81200$EZ.60682@okepread07...
If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.

RonB

this is kinda where I was leaning, but wanted to get some other ideas

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 14:23:00 GMT, HerHusband
wrote:

for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

Can you drill 1/4" holes spaced every inch or so and use shelf pins to
support the shelves? The pins come in plastic and metal and a variety of
shapes and colors.

Shelf pins don't provide the fine adjustability that the metal shelf
standards do, but they work great for most situations.

Anthony

the rails are out because I have already glued up the sides/tops and
installed the back ;-) I suppose I could route a groove but it would
be offset from the back by the router baseplate.

it's a very basic bookshelf, 48 high, 36 wide, 9 deep

from 2x pine building lumber, but selected for clear stock

basically it was a honey-do project that I chose to try out my biscuit
jointer, bandsaw (to resaw some parts), and router.

I resawed some 2x4s to get clear stock for the overhaning top and the
trim at the base.

So in light of "exploration", I'm looking for some interesting options
to support the shelves.

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:24:07 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?

The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

I generally use the slotted metal rails that I put into a routed channel,
but if this is what you're say will not work, then how about a little more
information. A better description of the project would be helpful, as would
the reasons why various solutions would be inappropriate.

Thu, Dec 2, 2004, 1:42am (EST-2)
whispered:
for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.

Pegs.

But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.



JOAT
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont
matter, and those who matter dont mind.
- Dr Seuss

"J T" wrote in message
news:20859-41B0AFB7-10@storefull-

But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.

Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
adjusted to compensate. Or maybe the bookshelf might be configured for
figurines or something in the future. I probably would have them adjustable
either, but I can envision times when you might want it.

On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 19:43:59 -0500, "Upscale"
wrote:



"J T" wrote in message
news:20859-41B0AFB7-10@storefull-

But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.

Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
adjusted to compensate. Or maybe the bookshelf might be configured for
figurines or something in the future. I probably would have them adjustable
either, but I can envision times when you might want it.



I usually build them adjustable unless there is a specific need
otherwise. it's easier....

alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking and the is a ABPFurniture also.

On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 11:02:33 -0700,
wrote:

what is ABPW?

yeah, I need to "see" it ;-)

Fri, Dec 3, 2004, 7:43pm (Upscale) says:
Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
adjusted to compensate. snip

I always make the top shelf open at the top, for the oversize
books. Works out fine. Alternately, you could just lay them flat, and
stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.



JOAT
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont
matter, and those who matter dont mind.
- Dr Seuss

"J T" wrote in message

I always make the top shelf open at the top, for the oversize
books. Works out fine. Alternately, you could just lay them flat, and
stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.

I guess. Unless the shelving is designed solely for books, then it's likely
going to have all sorts of stuff put on it. It's convenient to be able to
accommodate the preferences of the individual user.

J T wrote:

stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.

You've been divorced and single too long, JOAT.

It ain't like we have a CHOICE in these matters.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/