I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?
--
Seeker of Knowledge

To reply to me directly, please replace everything before the @ sign with just the letters K-n-o-w-l-e-d-g-e-S-e-e-k-e-r (without the dashes).

There are 3 basic classes of machines: There are exceptions but Ill give the
characteristics of most

Benchtop (direct drive universal motor, smaller top, often a cast aluminum
top, "portable")

Contractor (Belt-drive induction motor. Cast iron top, wings may be CI or
stamped steel, 250 lbs)

Cabinet (Multi-belt 220V motor 3Hp & up, trunions mounted to the cabinet
rather than the top, 400+ lbs)

What to look for:

Unless you have an absolute requirement for portability or small size look
for a contractor's saw. There are a few decent benchtops out there, but
they cost as much as contractor saws.

Beef: weight (as much cast iron as possible) is always a good thing. Belt
drive.

The fence is *really* important. Make sure that it locks securely with no
deflection.

The second hand market is a good place to look. Decent used contractor saws
are out there for $200 and less.

-Steve




"RoamDog" wrote in message
...
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate the
various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models of
various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip.
So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang for the buck
is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I probably do not
need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of
junk. Can you advise?
--
Seeker of Knowledge

To reply to me directly, please replace everything before the @ sign with
just the letters K-n-o-w-l-e-d-g-e-S-e-e-k-e-r (without the dashes).

In article ,
RoamDog wrote:
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate
the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models
of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp,
24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang
for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?

Table saws come in four broad classes:
1) 'benchtop"
2) "jobsite portable"
2) "Contractor"
3) "cabinet"

In addition, there are some 'hybrid' saws, that have some features from both
the 'contractor' and 'cabinet' designs.

*Broadly* speaking, the more the saw weights, the better. More weight means
less sensitive to vibration, etc. Thus, saws with cast iron tops are
preferred over saws with 'sheet metal' tops.

A bigger table-top is almost always better than a smaller one. The table
dimensions for 'contractor', and 'cabinet' saws are all very close to the
same size. 'benchtop' saws generally have *significantly* smaller tops,
particularly the lower-priced ones.

What is 'right' for you depends on what you'll be using it for. About which
you said _nothing_.

With the exception of the _very_ low-end models in any class, the differences
really boil down _mostly_ being that ill-defined thing called "ease of use".
The very lowest-priced units in any class tend to have numerous other
'compromises' in the design. The result: they're 'less capable', more
likely to break, prone to misbehave, etc.

One 'ease of use' illustration: the difference between a 'good' fence, and a
junky POS, is how much futzing you have to do, to get it set so you can cut
a piece _exactly_ the size you want. And how easy/hard it is to, after having
moved the fence, put it back to cut _another_ piece to match the first one.
*IF* you're willing to spend the time setting up / checking, for _every_
cut, it is possible to turn out work using a junky 'cheap POS' that will
rival what somebody the 'high priced professional saw' does. 'That other
guy' will just do it _much_ faster, more easily, and with far less aggravation.

In the price range you seem to be looking at, the Ryobi BT3100 (list $300) is
almost unquestionably the best bang for the buck. It is difficult to beat it,
even for twice the money. There's a low-end Grizzly 'contractor', that is
fairly new on the market, that is also a good saw, albeit presently (price
expected to rise significantly 1/1/2005) right at the high end of the price
range you mention.

The one 'downside' to the Ryobi -- it doesn't take abuse well. Treat it
with 'reasonable' care, and it'll last a long time, and do excellent work.

Thank you for the response. Is there a "Consumer Reports" type of magazine that publishes comparative reviews of saws?? Could you recommend some brands to look for (and some to avoid)?? Could you also recommend some specific models of saws in the contractor class??

I was planning to look at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and Sears. Had not considered second hand but perhaps I should. Is there any part/component on saws that is particularly prone to abuse/neglect/damage that I need to be especially concerned about on a second-hand model?? If so, what do I look out for?? Given weight, I am assuming that second hand is not ebay but some place local. Does that mean newspaper classifieds or is there some other more appropriate source for good second-hand saws??

Again, thank you for your advice.





"Stephen M" wrote:

There are 3 basic classes of machines: There are exceptions but Ill give the
characteristics of most

Benchtop (direct drive universal motor, smaller top, often a cast aluminum
top, "portable")

Contractor (Belt-drive induction motor. Cast iron top, wings may be CI or
stamped steel, 250 lbs)

Cabinet (Multi-belt 220V motor 3Hp & up, trunions mounted to the cabinet
rather than the top, 400+ lbs)

What to look for:

Unless you have an absolute requirement for portability or small size look
for a contractor's saw. There are a few decent benchtops out there, but
they cost as much as contractor saws.

Beef: weight (as much cast iron as possible) is always a good thing. Belt
drive.

The fence is *really* important. Make sure that it locks securely with no
deflection.

The second hand market is a good place to look. Decent used contractor saws
are out there for $200 and less.

-Steve




"RoamDog" wrote in message
.. .
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate the
various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models of
various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip.
So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang for the buck
is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I probably do not
need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of
junk. Can you advise?
--
Seeker of Knowledge

To reply to me directly, please replace everything before the @ sign with
just the letters K-n-o-w-l-e-d-g-e-S-e-e-k-e-r (without the dashes).

Sorry to say you opened a BIG can of worms with this question...

But

Personally I value a good fence a lot more then I favor anything
else..
It must lock down solid...and stay parralel ....

Then I look at the motor . and it better not be a direct drive
universal motor rated (by who ??) at 2 to 500 Hp and 15 Amps...
(Sears has a way of really over stating HP...

I own and use both a contractors saw and a cabinet saw both use
Biesmeyer fences Cabinet saw is 3 Hp but the Contractors saw is
only 1 Hp and to be truthful I very rarely need more then the 1 Hp BUT
I normally do not cut 8/4 material...


I pay no attention to the supplied blade (if any)

Lots of luck...and bust your budget ... its only money ! lol

Bob Griffiths

Thank you for the response.

Should have given more data on proposed uses. Use #1 will be to cut 1/4 luann to create backing for some book shelves. Use #2 will be to trim the actual shelves to the exact length needed (Menards and Home Depot seem to always leave me about 1/8 - 3/16 too much or too little). Future uses might include cutting 2X4 and boards for various small projects. Again, I have no illusions about becoming a master carpenter. Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free handing with
a circular saw.

I was planning to look at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and Sears. I know that HD does carry the Ryobi brand as I just purchased the cordless 18 Volt Super Combo II set. Have been generally please with it so far although I have had some problems with the drill losing its grip on some drill bits.

Again, thank you for your advice.




(Robert Bonomi) wrote:

In article ,
RoamDog wrote:
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate
the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models
of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp,
24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang
for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?

Table saws come in four broad classes:
1) 'benchtop"
2) "jobsite portable"
2) "Contractor"
3) "cabinet"

In addition, there are some 'hybrid' saws, that have some features from both
the 'contractor' and 'cabinet' designs.

*Broadly* speaking, the more the saw weights, the better. More weight means
less sensitive to vibration, etc. Thus, saws with cast iron tops are
preferred over saws with 'sheet metal' tops.

A bigger table-top is almost always better than a smaller one. The table
dimensions for 'contractor', and 'cabinet' saws are all very close to the
same size. 'benchtop' saws generally have *significantly* smaller tops,
particularly the lower-priced ones.

What is 'right' for you depends on what you'll be using it for. About which
you said _nothing_.

With the exception of the _very_ low-end models in any class, the differences
really boil down _mostly_ being that ill-defined thing called "ease of use".
The very lowest-priced units in any class tend to have numerous other
'compromises' in the design. The result: they're 'less capable', more
likely to break, prone to misbehave, etc.

One 'ease of use' illustration: the difference between a 'good' fence, and a
junky POS, is how much futzing you have to do, to get it set so you can cut
a piece _exactly_ the size you want. And how easy/hard it is to, after having
moved the fence, put it back to cut _another_ piece to match the first one.
*IF* you're willing to spend the time setting up / checking, for _every_
cut, it is possible to turn out work using a junky 'cheap POS' that will
rival what somebody the 'high priced professional saw' does. 'That other
guy' will just do it _much_ faster, more easily, and with far less aggravation.

In the price range you seem to be looking at, the Ryobi BT3100 (list $300) is
almost unquestionably the best bang for the buck. It is difficult to beat it,
even for twice the money. There's a low-end Grizzly 'contractor', that is
fairly new on the market, that is also a good saw, albeit presently (price
expected to rise significantly 1/1/2005) right at the high end of the price
range you mention.

The one 'downside' to the Ryobi -- it doesn't take abuse well. Treat it
with 'reasonable' care, and it'll last a long time, and do excellent work.

Be sure to check out the Ryobi BT3000. I love mine and have heard
almost no negatives for the saw overall. Is it the very best, probably
not but for what it does and its price you'll look long and hard to find
better in my opinion. BTW, HD sells them. Got mine there last year at
this time for $299 on sale and the Rigid Jointer for $369.
Grandpa John

RoamDog wrote:

Thank you for the response.

Should have given more data on proposed uses. Use #1 will be to cut 1/4 luann to create backing for some book shelves. Use #2 will be to trim the actual shelves to the exact length needed (Menards and Home Depot seem to always leave me about 1/8 - 3/16 too much or too little). Future uses might include cutting 2X4 and boards for various small projects. Again, I have no illusions about becoming a master carpenter. Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free handing with
a circular saw.

I was planning to look at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and Sears. I know that HD does carry the Ryobi brand as I just purchased the cordless 18 Volt Super Combo II set. Have been generally please with it so far although I have had some problems with the drill losing its grip on some drill bits.

Again, thank you for your advice.




(Robert Bonomi) wrote:


In article ,
RoamDog wrote:

I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate
the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models
of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp,
24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang
for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?

Table saws come in four broad classes:
1) 'benchtop"
2) "jobsite portable"
2) "Contractor"
3) "cabinet"

In addition, there are some 'hybrid' saws, that have some features from both
the 'contractor' and 'cabinet' designs.

*Broadly* speaking, the more the saw weights, the better. More weight means
less sensitive to vibration, etc. Thus, saws with cast iron tops are
preferred over saws with 'sheet metal' tops.

A bigger table-top is almost always better than a smaller one. The table
dimensions for 'contractor', and 'cabinet' saws are all very close to the
same size. 'benchtop' saws generally have *significantly* smaller tops,
particularly the lower-priced ones.

What is 'right' for you depends on what you'll be using it for. About which
you said _nothing_.

With the exception of the _very_ low-end models in any class, the differences
really boil down _mostly_ being that ill-defined thing called "ease of use".
The very lowest-priced units in any class tend to have numerous other
'compromises' in the design. The result: they're 'less capable', more
likely to break, prone to misbehave, etc.

One 'ease of use' illustration: the difference between a 'good' fence, and a
junky POS, is how much futzing you have to do, to get it set so you can cut
a piece _exactly_ the size you want. And how easy/hard it is to, after having
moved the fence, put it back to cut _another_ piece to match the first one.
*IF* you're willing to spend the time setting up / checking, for _every_
cut, it is possible to turn out work using a junky 'cheap POS' that will
rival what somebody the 'high priced professional saw' does. 'That other
guy' will just do it _much_ faster, more easily, and with far less aggravation.

In the price range you seem to be looking at, the Ryobi BT3100 (list $300) is
almost unquestionably the best bang for the buck. It is difficult to beat it,
even for twice the money. There's a low-end Grizzly 'contractor', that is
fairly new on the market, that is also a good saw, albeit presently (price
expected to rise significantly 1/1/2005) right at the high end of the price
range you mention.

The one 'downside' to the Ryobi -- it doesn't take abuse well. Treat it
with 'reasonable' care, and it'll last a long time, and do excellent work.

Get a straight edge, a few clamps, a sheet of styrofoam and use the
saw to rip. I use a straight edge to do more accurate work with a
circular saw or router then I can do with longer sheets of plywood. A
router and straight edge works pretty good to get stuff to =/- a few
hairs.

RoamDog wrote:

Thank you for the response.

Should have given more data on proposed uses. Use #1 will be to cut 1/4 luann to create backing for some book shelves. Use #2 will be to trim the actual shelves to the exact length needed (Menards and Home Depot seem to always leave me about 1/8 - 3/16 too much or too little). Future uses might include cutting 2X4 and boards for various small projects. Again, I have no illusions about becoming a master carpenter. Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free handing with
a circular saw.

I was planning to look at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and Sears. I know that HD does carry the Ryobi brand as I just purchased the cordless 18 Volt Super Combo II set. Have been generally please with it so far although I have had some problems with the drill losing its grip on some drill bits.

Again, thank you for your advice.




(Robert Bonomi) wrote:

In article ,
RoamDog wrote:
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate
the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models
of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp,
24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang
for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?

Table saws come in four broad classes:
1) 'benchtop"
2) "jobsite portable"
2) "Contractor"
3) "cabinet"

In addition, there are some 'hybrid' saws, that have some features from both
the 'contractor' and 'cabinet' designs.

*Broadly* speaking, the more the saw weights, the better. More weight means
less sensitive to vibration, etc. Thus, saws with cast iron tops are
preferred over saws with 'sheet metal' tops.

A bigger table-top is almost always better than a smaller one. The table
dimensions for 'contractor', and 'cabinet' saws are all very close to the
same size. 'benchtop' saws generally have *significantly* smaller tops,
particularly the lower-priced ones.

What is 'right' for you depends on what you'll be using it for. About which
you said _nothing_.

With the exception of the _very_ low-end models in any class, the differences
really boil down _mostly_ being that ill-defined thing called "ease of use".
The very lowest-priced units in any class tend to have numerous other
'compromises' in the design. The result: they're 'less capable', more
likely to break, prone to misbehave, etc.

One 'ease of use' illustration: the difference between a 'good' fence, and a
junky POS, is how much futzing you have to do, to get it set so you can cut
a piece _exactly_ the size you want. And how easy/hard it is to, after having
moved the fence, put it back to cut _another_ piece to match the first one.
*IF* you're willing to spend the time setting up / checking, for _every_
cut, it is possible to turn out work using a junky 'cheap POS' that will
rival what somebody the 'high priced professional saw' does. 'That other
guy' will just do it _much_ faster, more easily, and with far less aggravation.

In the price range you seem to be looking at, the Ryobi BT3100 (list $300) is
almost unquestionably the best bang for the buck. It is difficult to beat it,
even for twice the money. There's a low-end Grizzly 'contractor', that is
fairly new on the market, that is also a good saw, albeit presently (price
expected to rise significantly 1/1/2005) right at the high end of the price
range you mention.

The one 'downside' to the Ryobi -- it doesn't take abuse well. Treat it
with 'reasonable' care, and it'll last a long time, and do excellent work.

In article , RoamDog
wrote:

Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free
handing with a circular saw.

Don't freehand with your circ saw! ;-)

It easy to use a straight edge to guide a circ saw to make good,
straight, clean cuts.

Here's a few ideas from a quick Google search:

http://www.woodzone.com/tips/saw_guide.htm
http://www.diynet.com/diy/tl_saws/ar...4_2270605,00.h
tml
http://greenthumbgoodies.com/Cutting%20Box/cutting_box.htm

This is a great one:
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00051.asp

Even if you do go for a table saw (I bought a decent benchtop saw, but
regret not spending three times what I did for a good contractor's saw
with a good fence) you should review how you're using your circular
saw...

djb

If I were "starting over" with my first tablesaw purchase (which I am
still using after 16+years), I would spend the most $ you can afford up
to say $1K. If, after several years, you find yourself disinterested
and the machine starting to rust, you will be able to get back 75% of
your investment. If, on the other hand, you find yourself hooked on
woodworking, it will be money well spent.

Lou

PS: For $1K today, I'd get a Grizzly 1023. For $0.75K or so, I'd go
with the Sears Craftsman TS w/Biesmeyer fence. For around $0.5K I might
consider the Jet CS or the Rigid CS which get pretty good reviews in
most of the stuff I've read. FWIW.

In article , RoamDog
wrote:

I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate the
various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models of
various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip.
So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang for the buck
is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I probably do not need
the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of junk.
Can you advise?
--
Seeker of Knowledge

To reply to me directly, please replace everything before the @ sign with
just the letters K-n-o-w-l-e-d-g-e-S-e-e-k-e-r (without the dashes).

If you take your time you can get a good buy on a contractor saw
locally, unless you really live in the boonies.

I bought a 10 inch radial arm saw that was eight years old in 1974 and
it still sits in my ship cranking away when needed.

A good shop tool will last a long time for the average woodworker. And
a used one would be great to learn on.

Be sure and watch your fingers. They are good to keep for later.

RonT

Thanks for the great pointers.



Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , RoamDog
wrote:

Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free
handing with a circular saw.

Don't freehand with your circ saw! ;-)

It easy to use a straight edge to guide a circ saw to make good,
straight, clean cuts.

Here's a few ideas from a quick Google search:

http://www.woodzone.com/tips/saw_guide.htm
http://www.diynet.com/diy/tl_saws/ar...4_2270605,00.h
tml
http://greenthumbgoodies.com/Cutting%20Box/cutting_box.htm

This is a great one:
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00051.asp

Even if you do go for a table saw (I bought a decent benchtop saw, but
regret not spending three times what I did for a good contractor's saw
with a good fence) you should review how you're using your circular
saw...

djb

Can you describe the process for using the router in more detail. My in-laws gave me a router 2 years ago, but I have never used it.



Jim Behning wrote:

Get a straight edge, a few clamps, a sheet of styrofoam and use the
saw to rip. I use a straight edge to do more accurate work with a
circular saw or router then I can do with longer sheets of plywood. A
router and straight edge works pretty good to get stuff to =/- a few
hairs.

RoamDog wrote:

Thank you for the response.

Should have given more data on proposed uses. Use #1 will be to cut 1/4 luann to create backing for some book shelves. Use #2 will be to trim the actual shelves to the exact length needed (Menards and Home Depot seem to always leave me about 1/8 - 3/16 too much or too little). Future uses might include cutting 2X4 and boards for various small projects. Again, I have no illusions about becoming a master carpenter. Just wanted to get something that would give me straighter cuts than my free handing with
a circular saw.

I was planning to look at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and Sears. I know that HD does carry the Ryobi brand as I just purchased the cordless 18 Volt Super Combo II set. Have been generally please with it so far although I have had some problems with the drill losing its grip on some drill bits.

Again, thank you for your advice.




(Robert Bonomi) wrote:

In article ,
RoamDog wrote:
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate
the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models
of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp,
24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang
for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?

Table saws come in four broad classes:
1) 'benchtop"
2) "jobsite portable"
2) "Contractor"
3) "cabinet"

In addition, there are some 'hybrid' saws, that have some features from both
the 'contractor' and 'cabinet' designs.

*Broadly* speaking, the more the saw weights, the better. More weight means
less sensitive to vibration, etc. Thus, saws with cast iron tops are
preferred over saws with 'sheet metal' tops.

A bigger table-top is almost always better than a smaller one. The table
dimensions for 'contractor', and 'cabinet' saws are all very close to the
same size. 'benchtop' saws generally have *significantly* smaller tops,
particularly the lower-priced ones.

What is 'right' for you depends on what you'll be using it for. About which
you said _nothing_.

With the exception of the _very_ low-end models in any class, the differences
really boil down _mostly_ being that ill-defined thing called "ease of use".
The very lowest-priced units in any class tend to have numerous other
'compromises' in the design. The result: they're 'less capable', more
likely to break, prone to misbehave, etc.

One 'ease of use' illustration: the difference between a 'good' fence, and a
junky POS, is how much futzing you have to do, to get it set so you can cut
a piece _exactly_ the size you want. And how easy/hard it is to, after having
moved the fence, put it back to cut _another_ piece to match the first one.
*IF* you're willing to spend the time setting up / checking, for _every_
cut, it is possible to turn out work using a junky 'cheap POS' that will
rival what somebody the 'high priced professional saw' does. 'That other
guy' will just do it _much_ faster, more easily, and with far less aggravation.

In the price range you seem to be looking at, the Ryobi BT3100 (list $300) is
almost unquestionably the best bang for the buck. It is difficult to beat it,
even for twice the money. There's a low-end Grizzly 'contractor', that is
fairly new on the market, that is also a good saw, albeit presently (price
expected to rise significantly 1/1/2005) right at the high end of the price
range you mention.

The one 'downside' to the Ryobi -- it doesn't take abuse well. Treat it
with 'reasonable' care, and it'll last a long time, and do excellent work.

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 14:39:23 GMT, RoamDog
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I have a question. When you say you are a newbie, do you mean to table
saws, or to woodwork?

I really question a newbie getting a TS, as many will probably know,
ad nauseum.

Table saws are expensive, dangerous and surprisingly limited in their
use without a lot of extras, either built or bought. They also take up
a lot of room, and unless you get one of the benchtop or "use your own
saw" types, not very portable.

You are laying out a lot of money, for anything worthwhile. This
cramps your style for other more useful tools. A $500 TS is only the
basement for most guys around here. G

They also do not do the job that a bad worker cannot do. You can still
easily and expensively do awful work on a TS.

Unless your timber is straight to start with you will have to learn
some good tricks on a TS to get results that are worth anything.

I really reckon you should find somebody that is good with a TS, and
let them show you what it can and cannot do, and what is needed to
make it do other things. Maybe also talk to somebody who does not use
a TS, and does good work without one.

You mentioned in another post that you don't get good results freehand
with a circ saw. A good fence setup and decent saw/blade will go a
long way to doing just about _anything_ you are trying to
do.......with _care_. For mitres etc get a mitre saw (sliding
compound).

I think that I would like to get a table saw.
How do I differentiate the various models (i.e. what do I look for).
My local ads have models of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws
that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip. So, what is important? How can
I determine what the best bang for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a
professional wood worker so I probably do not need the absolute
top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of junk. Can
you advise?

How will I know if a fence is going to be bad? Is there a quick test of some kind that I could use prior to purchase?


Bob G. wrote:

Sorry to say you opened a BIG can of worms with this question...

But

Personally I value a good fence a lot more then I favor anything
else..
It must lock down solid...and stay parralel ....

Then I look at the motor . and it better not be a direct drive
universal motor rated (by who ??) at 2 to 500 Hp and 15 Amps...
(Sears has a way of really over stating HP...

I own and use both a contractors saw and a cabinet saw both use
Biesmeyer fences Cabinet saw is 3 Hp but the Contractors saw is
only 1 Hp and to be truthful I very rarely need more then the 1 Hp BUT
I normally do not cut 8/4 material...


I pay no attention to the supplied blade (if any)

Lots of luck...and bust your budget ... its only money ! lol

Bob Griffiths

In article , RoamDog
wrote:

Can you describe the process for using the router in more detail. My in-laws
gave me a router 2 years ago, but I have never used it.

Go he

http://www.patwarner.com/

I started out with a Dewalt 744 benchtop saw which I bought for the
rack and pinion fence and the portability- i.e. very small shop. I
used it for home improvement projects and building some basic
cabinets. It worked great but had some disadvantages- small table
surface, loud universal motor, vibration. I believe I paid about $500
at Sears for it about three or four years ago. It's still selling for
about that price, at least that's what I see it for in the ToolCrib
catalog from Amazon. I just recently bought a Ridgid contractors saw
from the Borg (Home Depot). They had a promotion where if you signed
up for a commercial account you received 50% off your first tool
purchase up to $300 off IIRC. The saw was listed at $547 so with the
discount I got it out the door for under $300. It comes with a mobile
base, cast iron top and wings and is rated at 1 1/2 HP. I've had it
for a couple of months now and so far I'm quite happy with it. Before
I saw this promotion I was leaning toward a Grizzly G0444Z which would
have cost me over $600 after shipping and the addition of a mobile
base. I lost a little HP with the Ridgid but for what I do I don't
think I'll miss it much. Mostly I work with sheet goods and hardwoods
under 2" thick so the extra HP rarely comes into play. Definitely
search the archives on this forum for table saw recommendations.
You'll find a wealth of information. If you're limited for space a
good benchtop saw will see you through for most basic cuts. Be wary of
some of the really cheap ones because the fence system will make it
frustrating to use for other than the very occasional use. If you
think you might want to get into doing more detailed woodworking then
you might want to step up to a contractor's saw or cabinet saw. They
will give you more control and versatility. A good book on table saws
is by Kelly Mehler. I just checked out a copy from my local library to
tune up my new saw. It's got information on the different types of
saws and how to get the most out of your saw. Hope this helps.

Dale



RoamDog wrote in message . ..
I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I
differentiate the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local
ads have models of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are
all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I
determine what the best bang for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a
professional wood worker so I probably do not need the absolute
top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of junk. Can
you advise?

I'll give you an earful about the Ryobi. I was tempted to buy it from
the review on Tools of the Trade and the fact that Lowe's was closing it
out. For $350, I learned the following the hard way:

- Saw is underpowered for any but the lightest work. Even with a thin
kerf blade, it will bog down in thicker materials including 3/4"+
plywood.

- The sliding wing is worse than useless.

- Since the table is aluminum, it is awfully tippy with larger stock
(like sheets (or even half sheets) of plywood). The navy has similar
issues with some of their aluminum boats.

- Everything on this saw moves. In the case of the rails that means
that unless you are willing to spend hours futzing with the thing, the
scale is pretty near useless.

- Worst of all is the damned, evil fence. A friend of mine who was once
a professional carpenter told me to pay close attention to the fence
when buying a saw but what does that really mean? In the case of the
Ryobi, it meant The Mystery of the 1/8" Short Cuts, which was resolved
when I watched closely and saw the fence tilt at an angle toward the
blade when I locked it down.

The short story is that I learned once again what I already knew --
don't cheap out. There is a real price for anything and then there is
the Black and Decker price. The real price for table saws is at least
$800, and really closer to $1000. So right now, I'm trying to decide
between a Powermatic 64 and a similar Delta 36-507 or something like
that. Ryobi can eat my shorts.


John DeBoo wrote in
:

Be sure to check out the Ryobi BT3000. I love mine and have heard
almost no negatives for the saw overall. Is it the very best,
probably not but for what it does and its price you'll look long and
hard to find better in my opinion. BTW, HD sells them. Got mine
there last year at this time for $299 on sale and the Rigid Jointer
for $369. Grandpa John

RoamDog wrote:

for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want
to get a piece of junk. Can you advise? -- Seeker of Knowledge

You want the Binford Dust Chucker 2000 XL with a 17.6 HP motor, the ultra
24" blade, and the extra extended 76" x 97" table, mounted on mag lev
casters. Anything less is a waste of money.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

"Silvan" wrote in message
...
RoamDog wrote:

for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I
probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not
want
to get a piece of junk. Can you advise? -- Seeker of Knowledge

You want the Binford Dust Chucker 2000 XL with a 17.6 HP motor, the ultra
24" blade, and the extra extended 76" x 97" table, mounted on mag lev
casters. Anything less is a waste of money.


Is that the model with the fully retractable 9" pneumatic wheels or the
model with the flexi-fold space saving universal stand? I've often wondered
why they didn't provide the mag levs for the saw unit as well as the
extension table. Must just be a marketing thing...
--

-Mike-

snip

Is that the model with the fully retractable 9" pneumatic wheels or the
model with the flexi-fold space saving universal stand? I've often wondered
why they didn't provide the mag levs for the saw unit as well as the
extension table. Must just be a marketing thing...

IIRC that have an option where they bolt a Mickey Thompson header to
the 4 inch dust port.

Man, I heard that really sucks!

A guy can dream can't he?

;-)

Lou

Any comments on the Makita Model 2703X1?





RoamDog wrote:

I think that I would like to get a table saw. How do I differentiate the various models (i.e. what do I look for). My local ads have models of various brands from $89 - $500 for saws that are all 10", 13-15amp, 24"-rip. So, what is important? How can I determine what the best bang for the buck is? Obviously, I am not a professional wood worker so I probably do not need the absolute top-of-the-line. But I also do not want to get a piece of junk. Can you advise?