I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter, while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could be
used to transition between the two systems?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

TEF

"TEF" wrote in message
...
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note
that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter, while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could
be
used to transition between the two systems?

Quick advice tips:

1. Dust collection fittings sold in Woodworking stores are grossly
overpriced. But you may need some of them anyway.
2. Buy your hose clamps at Lowe's or Home Depot. They are cheaper and
better.
3. Be sure to use S&D pipe (Sewer and Drain), not Schedule 40 pipe. The
latter is about 2-3 times the price.

I use a woodworking fitting called a splice fitting to adapt to flex hose.
Its overpriced but the convenience is worth it, I guess. These are
available in various incarnations. Here's a link to one
http://tinyurl.com/3tm4w.

I make slits in the PVC pipe to allow it to clamp down on the splice
tightly. I'll post some pics in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Bob

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max


"TEF" wrote in message
...
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note
that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter, while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could
be
used to transition between the two systems?

Quick advice tips:

1. Dust collection fittings sold in Woodworking stores are grossly
overpriced. But you may need some of them anyway.
2. Buy your hose clamps at Lowe's or Home Depot. They are cheaper and
better.
3. Be sure to use S&D pipe (Sewer and Drain), not Schedule 40 pipe. The
latter is about 2-3 times the price.

I use a woodworking fitting called a splice fitting to adapt to flex hose.
Its overpriced but the convenience is worth it, I guess. These are
available in various incarnations. Here's a link to one
http://tinyurl.com/3tm4w.

I make slits in the PVC pipe to allow it to clamp down on the splice
tightly. I'll post some pics in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Bob

"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

If you can point us to a documented incident of an explosion happening in a
small-shop environment from a dust collection system using plactic conduit,
you would be the first. Contrary to what you're saying, this is NOT a
realistic risk. This has been reported in Fine Woodworking and other
woodworking magazines. Using a ground wire is necessary only to avoid
build-up of static charge on the pipe. The worst that will happen is you'll
get a mild shock. The REAL danger is in the location where the dust is
stored. If you allow metal objects to enter the system and hit the impellor
or your dust collector, a spark could ignite the stored dust and start a
fire (not an explosion).

Explosions from dust happen in things like grain silos, not in home shop
dust collection systems.

Here is a very good link to an article covering the subject at great length:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...e=articles_221
..shtml

This IS a serious issue. SERIOUSLY miscommunicated.

Mike

"max" wrote in message

There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

No one has yet to post one. Please do so or stop spreading false
information.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 21:06:28 GMT, max wrote:

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.

Here we go... G

Barry

Mike that article you recommend
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...e=articles_221
won't come up.
Is there another place to view it?



"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
. com...

"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare
metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious
issue.
max

If you can point us to a documented incident of an explosion happening in
a
small-shop environment from a dust collection system using plactic
conduit,
you would be the first. Contrary to what you're saying, this is NOT a
realistic risk. This has been reported in Fine Woodworking and other
woodworking magazines. Using a ground wire is necessary only to avoid
build-up of static charge on the pipe. The worst that will happen is
you'll
get a mild shock. The REAL danger is in the location where the dust is
stored. If you allow metal objects to enter the system and hit the
impellor
or your dust collector, a spark could ignite the stored dust and start a
fire (not an explosion).

Explosions from dust happen in things like grain silos, not in home shop
dust collection systems.

Here is a very good link to an article covering the subject at great
length:


http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...e=articles_221
.shtml

This IS a serious issue. SERIOUSLY miscommunicated.

Mike

I can't remember the sources for this but it was heavily discussed in Fine
Woodworking and other periodicals in the 80,s and early 90's. I did remember
a couple of shop owners responded to the discussions that this had happened
to them. Adding a grounding wire through the pipes is cheap insurance to
possibly prevent an explosion or even just a fire. I am sure Oneida can ad
to this discussion if any one from that company is in this group.
I am not trying to scare or mislead. The information I had access to at the
time was pretty convincing.
max


"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

If you can point us to a documented incident of an explosion happening in a
small-shop environment from a dust collection system using plactic conduit,
you would be the first. Contrary to what you're saying, this is NOT a
realistic risk. This has been reported in Fine Woodworking and other
woodworking magazines. Using a ground wire is necessary only to avoid
build-up of static charge on the pipe. The worst that will happen is you'll
get a mild shock. The REAL danger is in the location where the dust is
stored. If you allow metal objects to enter the system and hit the impellor
or your dust collector, a spark could ignite the stored dust and start a
fire (not an explosion).

Explosions from dust happen in things like grain silos, not in home shop
dust collection systems.

Here is a very good link to an article covering the subject at great length:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...e=articles_221
.shtml

This IS a serious issue. SERIOUSLY miscommunicated.

Mike

you missed the wrap on the url:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...cles_221.shtml

I "agonized" over the debate about PVC & dust explosions about 5 years
ago when I installed my system. I concluded that it it a simple matter
to ground the whole thing & the cost was insignificant (maybe $10).

Also, I used the S&D pipe mentioned and wrapped the joints with a few
turns of duct tape in order to get a snug fit. Clamps cinched them up
fine. So far, this has worked very well with no problems except I have
to clean out the blast gates once in a while (bought the plastic ones).

To ground the system, I drilled a tiny hole at each joint, threaded the
wire through the pipe length, then use a lead (or whatever they are
these days) split shot to hold the wire taught against the pipe.

Lou

In article , Ba r r y
wrote:

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 21:06:28 GMT, max wrote:

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.

Here we go... G

Barry

Hey, I have a ceramic snake in the yard to keep the tigers away and it works
great. Never saw one. ;-)
If it makes people feel better to have a bonding wire in their pipe why
criticize them? While you are at it go ahead and bond all of the metal parts of
the system that may become energized by other voltages. Nobody can call that a
bad idea.
This might be important if you have switchesm actuators and such around the
system.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 21:06:28 +0000, max wrote:

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening.

I don't suppose you can cite any of the documented incidents?

scott

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 21:06:28 GMT, max wrote:

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode.

For the official rec.woodworking fix on pvc dust collection
explosions, get some silly putty, a pair of pantyhose, some #10 rubber
bands and read this:

http://www.google.com/groups?selm=7c9nvvg39cd5aeqva39icg99990l91t11k%404 ax.com&output=gplain

Problem solved. And like the post said, please post pictures.

Michael

"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.

That's an urban legend that's officially classified as rec.woodworking tired
topic #33.

Nobody's ever had an explosion in a home dust collection system due to
static electricity.

Bob

"TEF" wrote in message
...
Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could be
used to transition between the two systems?

As promised I posted some pictures in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Bob Davis
Houston, Texas

Oh, stop with the exploding PVC dust collection systems Max. It's a myth. Is
it possible? Yes. But the circumstances would have to be such that a million
other things in the shop would have caused a sawdust bomb long before a PVC
DC system would.

There are no (as in not one) documented incident of this happening. the
closest thing on record is a grain elevator explosion.
Grounding is always good...
Metal is better, but PVC is just fine.
It's not a serious issue. In fact, it's not an issue at all.

Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max


"TEF" wrote in message
...
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their
workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note
that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter,
while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4"
as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the
WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that
could
be
used to transition between the two systems?

Quick advice tips:

1. Dust collection fittings sold in Woodworking stores are grossly
overpriced. But you may need some of them anyway.
2. Buy your hose clamps at Lowe's or Home Depot. They are cheaper and
better.
3. Be sure to use S&D pipe (Sewer and Drain), not Schedule 40 pipe. The
latter is about 2-3 times the price.

I use a woodworking fitting called a splice fitting to adapt to flex
hose.
Its overpriced but the convenience is worth it, I guess. These are
available in various incarnations. Here's a link to one
http://tinyurl.com/3tm4w.

I make slits in the PVC pipe to allow it to clamp down on the splice
tightly. I'll post some pics in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Bob

Michael Baglio wrote in
:

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 21:06:28 GMT, max wrote:

If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure to ground it or it can explode.

For the official rec.woodworking fix on pvc dust collection
explosions, get some silly putty, a pair of pantyhose, some #10 rubber
bands and read this:

http://www.google.com/groups?selm=7c...99990l91t11k%4
04ax.com&output=gplain

Problem solved. And like the post said, please post pictures.

Michael


This makes as much sense as anything else I've read here. I mean, if they
won't believe the PhD over on Woodcentral/Badger Pond, then who will they
believe.

Patriarch,
who prefers this religious discussion to the political diatribe. g,d&r

"TEF" wrote in message
...
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note
that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter, while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could
be
used to transition between the two systems?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

TEF



I have reduced the static problem to a virtual asset.

I have lined each section with copper wires , connected all the wires in
series to a high speed rotational switch. the switch in turn is conected
to an ac converter which is then connected to the dust collection main drive
motor.

So what I have ended up with is a self powered dust collection system , in
short a perpetual motion machine .As you can imagine my shop is absolutely
spotless. At times when I am not using the DC system I just divert power to
the household circuit breaker box . Since I discoved this phenomenon my
whole local community has taken advantage of it and bought dustcollecton
systems even though most don't have shops .

The only major problem so far is we have not found a way to turn the dam
things off,so everyones lights are on 24 hours a day and frankly the noise
of all these machines running night and day is driving us berserk...mjh

Bob,

Thanks for posting a photo of the required adapter piece. As a matter of
fact, I have one of those and will get more when I start the PVC project.
Oddly, the part you show in the picture has shoulders on each end for
clamping hose or inserting into the PVC. However, the plastic Delta blast
gate that I have seems to have tapered shoulders on both sides making them
more difficult to firmly clamp hose or insert into the PVC. I just don't
understand the design of the gates and how they're intended to be
incorporated in a DC system. Even if one used just WW parts and hoses
(never mind the PVC pipe), I can't understand why blast gates would have
tapered connections on both ends.

Thanks again.


"Bob" wrote in message
k.net...

"TEF" wrote in message
...
Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could be
used to transition between the two systems?

As promised I posted some pictures in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Bob Davis
Houston, Texas

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 19:42:40 -0500, loutent wrote:

I "agonized" over the debate about PVC & dust explosions about 5 years
ago when I installed my system. I concluded that it it a simple matter
to ground the whole thing & the cost was insignificant (maybe $10).

So did I.

Two years later, I got tired of clogs related to the wires and pulled
them all out. Other than the lack of clogs, I see no difference.
Dust dosen't stick differently to the pipe, I don't get shocks, etc...
My tools and the DC are still grounded via the AC ground.

http://www.sacramentoareawoodworkers.com/Articles/DustCollectionandPVCPipeDangersDebunked.pdf

I'd be much more concerned about fumes from finishing products and
adhesives, and glowing steel from belt sanding tools as a fire hazard
than dust.

Barry

I use the metal blastgates (woodcraft?). On the DC sied I silicone a two
inch pvc pipe section on. This inserts into the (F) fitting on the tee
joint or 90 degree joint. On the woodworking side it is easy to connect
a 4 inch WW hose or a 4 inch metal dryer vent flex tube for spot
collection such as my lathe.

TEF wrote:
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter, while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could be
used to transition between the two systems?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

TEF

Howdy!


In article ,
max wrote:
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

I was gonna say "Don't feed the troll", but I'm waaay too late for that.

yours,
Michael


--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
| White Wolf and the Phoenix
Bowie, MD, USA | Tablet and Inkle bands, and other stuff
| http://www.radix.net/~herveus/wwap/

A classic!

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 08:51:57 GMT, "Mike Hide" wrote:

I have reduced the static problem to a virtual asset.

I have lined each section with copper wires , connected all the wires in
series to a high speed rotational switch. the switch in turn is conected
to an ac converter which is then connected to the dust collection main drive
motor.

So what I have ended up with is a self powered dust collection system , in
short a perpetual motion machine .As you can imagine my shop is absolutely
spotless. At times when I am not using the DC system I just divert power to
the household circuit breaker box . Since I discoved this phenomenon my
whole local community has taken advantage of it and bought dustcollecton
systems even though most don't have shops .

The only major problem so far is we have not found a way to turn the dam
things off,so everyones lights are on 24 hours a day and frankly the noise
of all these machines running night and day is driving us berserk...mjh

"Eddie Munster" wrote in message
news

I use the metal blastgates (woodcraft?). On the DC sied I silicone a two
inch pvc pipe section on.

Two inch? Is that a typo? Why would you use a two inch pipe section in a 4
inch system? Doesn't that restrict it severely?

Bob

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 14:14:45 -0000, (Michael
Houghton) vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I was gonna say "Don't feed the troll", but I'm waaay too late for that.

Actually I think that in this case the troll label is unfair. The guy
has replied to replies to his post, and was not thrashing, swearing
and "hitlerising" all over the place G. His is not usual troll
behaviour.
************************************************** ***
Dogs are better than people.

People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........

"Mike Hide" wrote in message
news:NKFkd.75555$HA.1672@attbi_s01...



"TEF" wrote in message
...
I know that a lot of you have utilized white 4" PVC pipe in their workshop
Dust Collection systems. I am thinking about doing the same in order
provide multiple inputs around my shop for a 2 HP DC. However, I note
that
when buying the 4" PVC that measurement denotes the inside diameter,
while
standard WW DC hardware (blast gates and other connections) measure 4" as
the outside diameter. If I were to integrate the PVC with standard WW
flexible hose and other fittings, how does one make the mechanical
connections between the two sets of materials? Does one just jam the WW
parts into the PVC? Are there adapters in the plumbing world that could
be
used to transition between the two systems?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

TEF



I have reduced the static problem to a virtual asset.

I have lined each section with copper wires , connected all the wires in
series to a high speed rotational switch. the switch in turn is conected
to an ac converter which is then connected to the dust collection main
drive motor.

So what I have ended up with is a self powered dust collection system , in
short a perpetual motion machine .As you can imagine my shop is absolutely
spotless. At times when I am not using the DC system I just divert power
to the household circuit breaker box . Since I discoved this phenomenon my
whole local community has taken advantage of it and bought dustcollecton
systems even though most don't have shops .

The only major problem so far is we have not found a way to turn the dam
things off,so everyones lights are on 24 hours a day and frankly the noise
of all these machines running night and day is driving us berserk...mjh

One other thing , the build up of static electricity in the DC system
ducting is primarilly due ductal friction. Although to some this is a
disadvantage ,but in the depths of winter[when the temps fall to below 65
degrees in the south] , the ductional friction produces heat .

If correctly managed this can heat the operating space so that no
additional shop heating is required . this has to carefully managed bearing
in mind that the lighter woods such as pine and goncola alves are not the
heat producers that lignum viti or perhaps cuban mahogany are ....mjh

One other thing , the build up of static electricity in the DC system
ducting is primarilly due ductal friction. Although to some this is a
disadvantage ,but in the depths of winter[when the temps fall to below 65
degrees in the south] , the ductional friction produces heat .

If correctly managed this can heat the operating space so that no
additional shop heating is required . this has to carefully managed bearing
in mind that the lighter woods such as pine and goncola alves are not the
heat producers that lignum viti or perhaps cuban mahogany are ....mjh


So this is what the death of a thread looks like.

Lou

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:51:51 GMT, "Bob"
wrote:


"Eddie Munster" wrote in message
news

I use the metal blastgates (woodcraft?). On the DC sied I silicone a two
inch pvc pipe section on.

Two inch? Is that a typo? Why would you use a two inch pipe section in a 4
inch system? Doesn't that restrict it severely?

I think he meant two inch long, not diameter.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

I think he meant two inch long, not diameter.


His poor wife...

In article ,
max wrote:
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

Ha ha, good one! Can you cite just ONE "documented incident"


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"loutent" wrote in message
...


So this is what the death of a thread looks like.

And no one used the N*zi word.

In article ,
says...
I can't remember the sources for this but it was heavily discussed in Fine
Woodworking and other periodicals in the 80,s and early 90's. I did remember
a couple of shop owners responded to the discussions that this had happened
to them. Adding a grounding wire through the pipes is cheap insurance to
possibly prevent an explosion or even just a fire. I am sure Oneida can ad
to this discussion if any one from that company is in this group.
I am not trying to scare or mislead. The information I had access to at the
time was pretty convincing.
max


"max" wrote in message
...
If any one uses plastic pipe for their dust collector you have to make
sure
to ground it or it can explode. Plastic is an insulator and the friction
of
the dust moving through it can cause a static buildup and then an
explosion.
There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious issue.
max

If you can point us to a documented incident of an explosion happening in a
small-shop environment from a dust collection system using plactic conduit,
you would be the first. Contrary to what you're saying, this is NOT a
realistic risk. This has been reported in Fine Woodworking and other
woodworking magazines. Using a ground wire is necessary only to avoid
build-up of static charge on the pipe. The worst that will happen is you'll
get a mild shock. The REAL danger is in the location where the dust is
stored. If you allow metal objects to enter the system and hit the impellor
or your dust collector, a spark could ignite the stored dust and start a
fire (not an explosion).

Explosions from dust happen in things like grain silos, not in home shop
dust collection systems.

Here is a very good link to an article covering the subject at great length:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...e=articles_221
.shtml

This IS a serious issue. SERIOUSLY miscommunicated.

Mike



I have to agree that it is NOT an issue. I've read the research and my
conclusion is that in a small shop environment a grounding wire is not
needed. I've been running my PVC based DC system for 4 years and the
only thing I've encountered is a mild shock. One of the byproducts
however is that the charge on the PVC attracts the airborne dust
particles. Kinda like the those ion air purifiers. I vac the piping
once in a while.+

"TEF" wrote in message
...
Bob,

I just don't
understand the design of the gates and how they're intended to be
incorporated in a DC system. Even if one used just WW parts and hoses
(never mind the PVC pipe), I can't understand why blast gates would have
tapered connections on both ends.

Yeah, they are a pain to connect to anything.

I cut 8 slits in the S&D PVC pipe and then clamped it to the metal blast
gate using a flat stainless hose clamp. It holds it very rigidly because the
metal gate is a solid casting. I don't know how well this would work with
the plastic gates.

Bob

In article . net,
says...

"TEF" wrote in message
...
Bob,

I just don't
understand the design of the gates and how they're intended to be
incorporated in a DC system. Even if one used just WW parts and hoses
(never mind the PVC pipe), I can't understand why blast gates would have
tapered connections on both ends.

Yeah, they are a pain to connect to anything.

I cut 8 slits in the S&D PVC pipe and then clamped it to the metal blast
gate using a flat stainless hose clamp. It holds it very rigidly because the
metal gate is a solid casting. I don't know how well this would work with
the plastic gates.

Bob



I'm doing it. If I can't get the plastic gate to tighten down, I wrap a
piece of duct tape around it so the PVC has more to bite on. I also
slit the PVC and use hose clamps. It ends up working pretty good.

-Later

Bob:

Do you have a photo of the underside of your seperator lid you made? My
system is 5" pipe which requires building my own lid.

Alan

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:


"max" wrote in message

There are many documented incidents of this happening. I run a bare metal
wire through all of the pipe and attach it to the dust collector housing
and
the tool housing to pick up the static discharge, This is a serious
issue. max

No one has yet to post one. Please do so or stop spreading false
information.

If he's talking about an explosion hazard, nobody has documented a case. If
he's talking about an electric shock, that also can be a hazard--imagine
brushing the collector plumpbing and having your hand involuntarily jerk
into the rotating blade on your radial-arm saw for example--and enough
static buildup to cause a shock is very likely under dry conditions.

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)