"Tim and Stephanie" wrote in message
news:sgand.7580$tS4.3818@trndny09...

"My Old Tools" wrote in message
...
Ever spliced an extension cord to make it longer. Here's how:

1) carefully uplug the drill from the end
2) get pocket knife
3) admire new hole in pocket knife blade
4) unplug remainder of cord
5) reset breaker

I did that, except for me step 3 was "throw away brand new, now useless,
Klein Lineman's pliers". You'd think that a pair of Klein lineman's
pliers
would handle something like this, but then I guess any lineman would
probably wouldn't have been dumb enough to do that...
==============================

When you think about it, the house AC input line is usually capable of 200
amps or more. When you cut into the conductors, you're putting 24,000 Watts
or more into about a 3-5 mm chunk of steel until the 20 Amp fuse, or circuit
breaker, for the circuit you're plugged into blows. That's enough to light
240, or more, 100W light bulbs. No wonder it burns a chunk out of your
pliers.
BTW, I did the same thing after my coworker assured me the breaker was OFF!!
{:-()

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
hlink.net...
"Tim and Stephanie" wrote in message
news:sgand.7580$tS4.3818@trndny09...

"My Old Tools" wrote in message
...

snippage


I have no proof this is a true story, but it was told to me by a choir
member at rehearsal Wed. night . . . He says he was @ the Vet's hospital in
Pittsburgh earlier in the week, and saw a guy in a neck collar AND a full
torso cast.
"Were you in an accident?"
"No, I have a problem with my neck. Sometimes when I turn my head, something
happens and I pass out."
"That explains the neck brace, but why the full torso cast?"
"I was working in my shop, cutting wood on the table saw, when I turned my
head, passed out, and fell ON the saw."

He didn't carry the conversation any further.

--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.

Maxprop wrote:
"Joe Gorman" wrote in message


Well, it was a few years ago so the lawyer is out. I had been
clearing the chunks at the beginning. I was trimming a bunch of
poplar 2x2's and got tired of moving the scraps off the table.
After all they were just sitting there. Then one jiggled just far
enough for the rear tooth of the blade to toss it at me. I tend
to have a little retroactive amnesia whenever something like this
happens so the next thing I remember was holding one hand over the
damaged eye and looking for the glasses with the other eye. Found
the glasses, picked up the lens pieces and went for a ride.


What material were the lenses, Joe?

As I mentioned earlier, polycarbonate is the only true safety lens. For
future reference, insist on polycarb for any pair of glasses you wish to use
with activities that have the potential for flying objects. And no rimless
or semi-rimless frames, either. A good, solid plastic or metal eyewire
surrounding the lens is an absolute necessity for holding the lens in place.

Max


No idea. I think I've got the pieces somewhere, anyway to tell by
filing scraping or burning?
Joe

"Joe Gorman" wrote in message

Maxprop wrote:

What material were the lenses, Joe?

No idea. I think I've got the pieces somewhere, anyway to tell by
filing scraping or burning?

Believe it or not the way we determine glass vs. plastic is to tap them
gently against a tooth. If the resulting sound is a bright "click" they're
glass. If the sound is a dull "clack" they're plastic. Obviously if
they're in pieces they weren't polycarb. I've seen polycarb lenses that
have been placed in a vise and shot with a .22 caliber round at close range.
The bullet distorted the lens by about an inch, but failed to penetrate. No
breakage either.

Max

Ken Moon wrote:


BTW, I did the same thing after my coworker assured me the breaker was
OFF!!
{:-()

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

At work I have been asked to write up Lock Out / Tag Out procedures for
working on all of our various sorts of equipment.


Thanks for reminding me that all circuits should be tested before being
trusted.


Bill in Detroit