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Paul O.
 
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Default Jet-JWTS-10JF Table saw

Trying to figure out a way to upgrade to a bigger and better saw from my DW
744. Keep looking at the Jet that Lowe's now sells, which is I believe is
the JWTS-10JF. I have my DeWalt on a Rigid Work-N-Haul it, the stand that HD
sells with the Ridgid TS. I need to get the Jet on this stand to be able to
get it in and out of the shed I keep my tools in(a 6 X 8'). The stand I have
I hope can handle the weight of the Jet, what do you think here? I just hope
I can handle wrestling the saw in and out of the shed and the 30" rails may
make it a little awkward. To make room for the saw I am going to have to get
rid of a small workbench in one end of the shed, where the junk on that is
going to go, I haven't figured out yet. Another question I have is, can this
saw handle the moving and possible bumping around? Will the Jet T-type fence
be accurate enough till a possibly later upgrade can be done? Need some good
advice here so I can plan and work this out while I save some more tool
money. Thanks, I appreciate it.

--
Paul O.



  #2   Report Post  
Robert Galloway
 
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Default

Sounds like my saw. I don't remember the exact numbers and initials but
I think it's the same. Been very happy with this saw. Building a stand
for it to replace the factory should be pretty simple. Put some wheels
on it and your set to go. Move it "sideways" i.e. put the wheels so it
moves parallel to the fence and not parallel to the miter slot. Where
the option exists, I'd get the cast iron wings. I have the stamped
metal wings and as near as I can tell, they work as well as one could
want. I still drool over solid (not lacework) cast iron wings.

bob g.

Paul O. wrote:

Trying to figure out a way to upgrade to a bigger and better saw from my DW
744. Keep looking at the Jet that Lowe's now sells, which is I believe is
the JWTS-10JF. I have my DeWalt on a Rigid Work-N-Haul it, the stand that HD
sells with the Ridgid TS. I need to get the Jet on this stand to be able to
get it in and out of the shed I keep my tools in(a 6 X 8'). The stand I have
I hope can handle the weight of the Jet, what do you think here? I just hope
I can handle wrestling the saw in and out of the shed and the 30" rails may
make it a little awkward. To make room for the saw I am going to have to get
rid of a small workbench in one end of the shed, where the junk on that is
going to go, I haven't figured out yet. Another question I have is, can this
saw handle the moving and possible bumping around? Will the Jet T-type fence
be accurate enough till a possibly later upgrade can be done? Need some good
advice here so I can plan and work this out while I save some more tool
money. Thanks, I appreciate it.

  #3   Report Post  
 
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Default

Don't drool over the cast iron! (it will rust!!)
I have the JWTS-10 with the cast iron wings. I am very pleased with the saw. I
paid $550 for it at the Charlotte NC WW show about 4 years ago (and I keep it
waxed in case I drool over it!)

Frank

Robert Galloway wrote:

Sounds like my saw. I don't remember the exact numbers and initials but
I think it's the same. Been very happy with this saw. Building a stand
for it to replace the factory should be pretty simple. Put some wheels
on it and your set to go. Move it "sideways" i.e. put the wheels so it
moves parallel to the fence and not parallel to the miter slot. Where
the option exists, I'd get the cast iron wings. I have the stamped
metal wings and as near as I can tell, they work as well as one could
want. I still drool over solid (not lacework) cast iron wings.

bob g.

Paul O. wrote:

Trying to figure out a way to upgrade to a bigger and better saw from my DW
744. Keep looking at the Jet that Lowe's now sells, which is I believe is
the JWTS-10JF. I have my DeWalt on a Rigid Work-N-Haul it, the stand that HD
sells with the Ridgid TS. I need to get the Jet on this stand to be able to
get it in and out of the shed I keep my tools in(a 6 X 8'). The stand I have
I hope can handle the weight of the Jet, what do you think here? I just hope
I can handle wrestling the saw in and out of the shed and the 30" rails may
make it a little awkward. To make room for the saw I am going to have to get
rid of a small workbench in one end of the shed, where the junk on that is
going to go, I haven't figured out yet. Another question I have is, can this
saw handle the moving and possible bumping around? Will the Jet T-type fence
be accurate enough till a possibly later upgrade can be done? Need some good
advice here so I can plan and work this out while I save some more tool
money. Thanks, I appreciate it.


  #4   Report Post  
Elmar
 
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Default

Great Saw.....

I put the Incra Fence system on it and it's a WONDERFUL machine!
  #5   Report Post  
Mark
 
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Default

This Jet is an outstanding saw. I wrote a review about it on epinions
when I picked it up a few years ago. I recommend rewiring for 220V
(nice improvement in power). I also put it on the mobile stand
available from Harbor Freight (which is identical to the one Delta
sells as a much lower cost...HF has many items that are questionable,
but the mobile base is great.) The standard fence is adequate, but I'm
upgrading to a 50" Jet Xacta II fence (commercial version) tonight. I
also found some excellent ideas from some smart folks for improving the
dust collection to 'near' cabinet saw level at very low cost. If
anyone is interested, I'll post the links. I was about ready to
upgrade to a Jet cabinet saw or a Powermatic 66, but with the latest
upgrades, I don't think I will.

-- Mark



  #6   Report Post  
Mark
 
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Default

This Jet is an outstanding saw. I wrote a review about it on epinions
when I picked it up a few years ago. I recommend rewiring for 220V
(nice improvement in power). I also put it on the mobile stand
available from Harbor Freight (which is identical to the one Delta
sells as a much lower cost...HF has many items that are questionable,
but the mobile base is great.) The standard fence is adequate, but I'm
upgrading to a 50" Jet Xacta II fence (commercial version) tonight. I
also found some excellent ideas from some smart folks for improving the
dust collection to 'near' cabinet saw level at very low cost. If
anyone is interested, I'll post the links. I was about ready to
upgrade to a Jet cabinet saw or a Powermatic 66, but with the latest
upgrades, I don't think I will.

-- Mark

  #7   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
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Default

Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?

UA100
  #8   Report Post  
R
 
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Unisaw A100 wrote in
:

Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?

UA100



Short answer: Yes, because there is less IR loss.


r

--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.


  #9   Report Post  
Jim
 
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Default


"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...
Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?

Yes, because there is less IR loss hence less heating. The horsepower is
determined by the amount of temperature rise. Since there is less heating,
the motor must develop more power to achieve the same temperature rise.
Even so, the difference in power can be quite small.
Jim


  #10   Report Post  
patrick conroy
 
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Default


"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...


Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?


Sure! Unfortunately your electric bill doubles since you're using twice as
many volts.




  #11   Report Post  
 
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Default

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 17:12:56 GMT, "Jim" wrote:


"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
.. .
Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?

Yes, because there is less IR loss hence less heating. The horsepower is
determined by the amount of temperature rise. Since there is less heating,
the motor must develop more power to achieve the same temperature rise.
Even so, the difference in power can be quite small.
Jim



and if the wire runs are reasonably short, it would be a *very* small
difference.
  #12   Report Post  
rhncue
 
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Default

You are only using half as many amps per leg also. Actually you use slightly
less electricity because there is not the large strain and power usage on
start-up to get to the running RPMs. On my mill/drill when I used 110v. when
set at higher speeds it would often kick out the circuit breaker on start
up, no problems after switching to 220v.
Dick

--
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Over 35 years experience in cue repair.
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Cinti. OH 45216
ph# 513 233-7499
web site: http//www.dickiecues.com
"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...

"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...


Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?


Sure! Unfortunately your electric bill doubles since you're using twice as
many volts.




  #13   Report Post  
patrick conroy
 
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"rhncue" wrote in message
...


You are only using half as many amps per leg also.


Sorry - forgot to add the " " to my post...


  #14   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
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Default

R: wrote:
Short answer: Yes, because there is less IR loss.



Enough that you would notice without the use of a meter?

UA100
  #15   Report Post  
R
 
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Default

Unisaw A100 wrote in
:

R: wrote:
Short answer: Yes, because there is less IR loss.



Enough that you would notice without the use of a meter?

UA100


Depends on the application and other factors. It made a huge difference
on my Unisaw. Time to reached full speed on startup was cut by a factor
of 4 or more. On small motors like the one on a Delta band saw doesn't
matter as much to me. I don't do any heavy cutting on the band saw.
There has been at least one recent magazine article extolling the virtues
of 220 power.

I won't bore you with the details. People generally hate it when I get
the formulas out.

r


--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.




  #17   Report Post  
R
 
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Default

"patrick conroy" wrote in
:


"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...


Mark wrote:
I recommend rewiring for 220V (nice improvement in power).



The extra voltage increases the horsepower?


Sure! Unfortunately your electric bill doubles since you're using twice
as many volts.




That is not true.

Electricity is sold by the number of watts per hour not the volts or the
current but the product of the two. Amps x Volts=Watts. The bottom line
is that your electric bill stays the same. The plus side is that the
little bit that would be converted to heat at 110 is dropped at 2220. You
get more of what you pay for.

r



--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.


  #18   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
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Default

R wrote:
There has been at least one recent magazine article extolling the virtues
of 220 power.


I won't bore you with the details. People generally hate it when I get
the formulas out.



Can you bore us with which magazine ran the article?

UA100
  #19   Report Post  
Frank S.
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mark wrote:

This Jet is an outstanding saw. I wrote a review about it on epinions
when I picked it up a few years ago. I recommend rewiring for 220V
(nice improvement in power). I also put it on the mobile stand
available from Harbor Freight (which is identical to the one Delta
sells as a much lower cost...HF has many items that are questionable,
but the mobile base is great.) The standard fence is adequate, but I'm
upgrading to a 50" Jet Xacta II fence (commercial version) tonight. I
also found some excellent ideas from some smart folks for improving the
dust collection to 'near' cabinet saw level at very low cost. If
anyone is interested, I'll post the links. I was about ready to
upgrade to a Jet cabinet saw or a Powermatic 66, but with the latest
upgrades, I don't think I will.

-- Mark



Mark,
Do you have the part number for the base? I have deen looking at HF, and
can't fine it
Thanks
Frank
  #20   Report Post  
Larry Jaques
 
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Default

On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 08:09:45 -0500, the inscrutable "Frank S."
spake:

Mark wrote:

This Jet is an outstanding saw. I wrote a review about it on epinions
when I picked it up a few years ago. I recommend rewiring for 220V
(nice improvement in power). I also put it on the mobile stand
available from Harbor Freight (which is identical to the one Delta
sells as a much lower cost...HF has many items that are questionable,
but the mobile base is great.) The standard fence is adequate, but I'm


Do you have the part number for the base? I have deen looking at HF, and
can't fine it


They discontinued it about 2 days after I put mine together and
decided to buy another one. That was a couple years ago.


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  #21   Report Post  
Mark
 
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Frank...I think Larry is right. For reference, the item was part
number 41915-OVGA, Universal Mobile Base. I'm keeping it handy just in
case HF brings back the item. Sorry that they aren't available for
now...they have held up really well.

  #22   Report Post  
Frank S.
 
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Default

Mark wrote:

Frank...I think Larry is right. For reference, the item was part
number 41915-OVGA, Universal Mobile Base. I'm keeping it handy just in
case HF brings back the item. Sorry that they aren't available for
now...they have held up really well.



It figures!!! They make something that works, and people want.... and
they stop making it.
Oh well
Frank
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