On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:29:06 -0400, Glen Duff
wrote:

I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

My saw blade was a good quality carbide-tipped blade and was only a few
months old. After I was finished I noticed that it caused burning when
cutting both hardwoods and softwoods and was obviously dulled. Has
anyone else had problems with this. I was rather surprised as the
flooring did not seem to be the type of material that would be hard on
blades.

The problem was presumably with the grey composite material as it
certainly wouldn't be the cork.

When I put laminate flooring (not engineered) down in my bedroom it
ate up the carbide Freud on my miter saw. The cork (which sounds very
much like yours) I just put down in my kitchen was too wide for the
miter saw so I used the table saw, also with a Freud carbide.

Fortunately I didn't have near as many cuts to make with the cork even
though it was a bigger room, but I also haven't had occasion to try
out the blade on regular wood yet, so I can't tell if it did anything.

My impression when cutting the cork was that it was very much easier
on the blade than the laminate was.




- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

My saw blade was a good quality carbide-tipped blade and was only a few
months old. After I was finished I noticed that it caused burning when
cutting both hardwoods and softwoods and was obviously dulled. Has
anyone else had problems with this. I was rather surprised as the
flooring did not seem to be the type of material that would be hard on
blades.

The problem was presumably with the grey composite material as it
certainly wouldn't be the cork.

Any comments are appreciated.

Glen Duff

Is the flooring you put down pre-finished?
If yes, that may be where the problem lies. Some of the factory finishes
include silicon-dioxide to resist wear. This will eat saw blades rapidly.

Art

"Glen Duff" wrote in message
...
I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

My saw blade was a good quality carbide-tipped blade and was only a few
months old. After I was finished I noticed that it caused burning when
cutting both hardwoods and softwoods and was obviously dulled. Has
anyone else had problems with this. I was rather surprised as the
flooring did not seem to be the type of material that would be hard on
blades.

The problem was presumably with the grey composite material as it
certainly wouldn't be the cork.

Any comments are appreciated.

Glen Duff

"Glen Duff" wrote in message
...
I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

My saw blade was a good quality carbide-tipped blade and was only a few
months old. After I was finished I noticed that it caused burning when
cutting both hardwoods and softwoods and was obviously dulled. Has
anyone else had problems with this. I was rather surprised as the
flooring did not seem to be the type of material that would be hard on
blades.

The problem was presumably with the grey composite material as it
certainly wouldn't be the cork.

Any comments are appreciated.

Glen Duff

I put down 450 feet of engineered wood with no problem at all. Just like
cutting firewood. Then I lent the saw to someone that put down 200 feet of
laminate and the blad would barely cut after that. It sharped nicely though.

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:18:00 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
wrote:

I put down 450 feet of engineered wood with no problem at all. Just like
cutting firewood. Then I lent the saw to someone that put down 200 feet of
laminate and the blad would barely cut after that. It sharped nicely though.

Was that a Craftsman blade?


- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Uniclick has an aluminum-oxide surfacing on the finish (you see the sparks
in the right shadow) and it doesn't matter what blade you you laminate is
very hard on it (you get 300 to 600 sf ) I even bought a royce-air blade and
it didn't do very well. I bought a 10" Frued blade just made for laminate, I
haven't used it yet but they tell it works.
Has anyone used a diamond blade on laminate? I used 41/2"one with a grinder
to cut a curve in the floor and seemed to work well.

"Glen Duff" wrote in message
...
I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

My saw blade was a good quality carbide-tipped blade and was only a few
months old. After I was finished I noticed that it caused burning when
cutting both hardwoods and softwoods and was obviously dulled. Has
anyone else had problems with this. I was rather surprised as the
flooring did not seem to be the type of material that would be hard on
blades.

The problem was presumably with the grey composite material as it
certainly wouldn't be the cork.

Any comments are appreciated.

Glen Duff

Glen Duff wrote in :

I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.


I put down 1400 sq ft of pergo. Went through 8 40 tooth 10 inch carbide
blades.

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:18:00 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
wrote:

I put down 450 feet of engineered wood with no problem at all. Just like
cutting firewood. Then I lent the saw to someone that put down 200 feet
of
laminate and the blad would barely cut after that. It sharped nicely
though.

Was that a Craftsman blade?



No, it was the 12" DeWalt that came with the saw. I did some laminate a few
years back and had to make about 20 cuts. It took TWO non-carbide blades to
get it done. That laminate is very tough stuff. In the case of the DW, it
sharpened up like brand new.

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:29:06 -0400, Glen Duff
wrote:

I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

Do you like the floor? What room is it in? On bare feet is it warm like
wood or cold like tile or laminate? Did you get it local or from a
national company - if the latter and you liked them, then who? TIA. --
Igor

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 20:31:31 GMT, igor wrote:

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:29:06 -0400, Glen Duff
wrote:

I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.

I can answer for my part, since I also recently installed a similar
cork floor.

Do you like the floor?

Yes.

What room is it in?

Kitchen/dining suite.

On bare feet is it warm like wood or cold like tile or laminate?

As stupid as it sounds, something in between. It's absolutely NOT cold
like tile. The sensation you get more than hot or cold is comfort,
because it's not hard (it's not soft, either, but definitely not
hard). Resilient is a closer word but that's not quite it, either.
We're in North Florida, so adjust your cold/hot comfort
interpretations accordingly.

Did you get it local or from a national company

Local.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 10:18:00 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
wrote:


"LRod" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:18:00 GMT, "RE Quick Transit"
wrote:

I put down 450 feet of engineered wood with no problem at all. Just like
cutting firewood. Then I lent the saw to someone that put down 200 feet
of laminate and the blad would barely cut after that. It sharped nicely
though.

Was that a Craftsman blade?


No, it was the 12" DeWalt that came with the saw. I did some laminate a few
years back and had to make about 20 cuts. It took TWO non-carbide blades to
get it done. That laminate is very tough stuff. In the case of the DW, it
sharpened up like brand new.

You did know I was making a joke, didn't you?


- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"LRod" wrote in message
You did know I was making a joke, didn't you?


- -
LRod

Actually yes, but about an hour after I sent the reply (duh!). Some days it
just happens that way.

If I used a Craftsman blade, I'd still be cutting away!
Ralph

Igor,


We live near Toronto so our winter's are pretty cold. Also, our cork
flooring is in a kitchen and family room in an old stone house and in a
section of the house that has no basement, only about a foot above dirt
surrounded by stone walls. The cork is an excellent insulator and I
agree with LROD that it is definitely not cold so this has been a good
choice for us.

The product is called Torlys. When we researched the product we wanted
something at or near the high end of cork products. Apparently there
are different densities so be careful when comparing different products.
Price was in the $6.50 range Canadian per sq ft. Easily installed and
looks good. I understand it is available in the U.S.

Glen Duff
=====================

igor wrote:

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:29:06 -0400, Glen Duff
wrote:


I recently installed engineered cork flooring called uniclick that has a
grey composite in the middle and used my sliding compound miter saw
extensively during the job.


Do you like the floor? What room is it in? On bare feet is it warm like
wood or cold like tile or laminate? Did you get it local or from a
national company - if the latter and you liked them, then who? TIA. --
Igor