Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

"CBlood59" wrote in message ...
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

I have made quite a number of picture frames so far. What I have found that works for me is to set the blade tilt using a plastic
45-45-90 drafting triangle. I then cut a couple of miters and check for square. If necessary tweak and try again. It usually
doesn't take more that a few minutes to get it right.

BTW, I am using a 10" Delta Contractors saw.

--
Al Reid

A government big enough to give you everything you want...
is big enough to take away everything you have."

"CBlood59" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

My Chiwanese Lion-copy miter trimmer does an acceptable job.

On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, (CBlood59) wrote:

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees.

Cut them to exactly 45° in the first place. This might take some
adjustment and repeated test-cutting, but it's easier than trying to
adjust them afterwards. Like dovetails, mitres are best cut in one
quick pass, as "adjustment" afterwards never really works.

Or else find a cast iron mitre guillotine.

CBlood59 wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

Curt, the problem with technology is that we forget what worked and more
importantly "why" it worked. If you want good solid miters do the simple
thing and make a miter sled. The process is simple and all you need is a
framing square (what a wonderful tool it is).

The following is given assuming you will be using the miter slot on the left
of the blade (that keeps your hands away from the blade).
Cut a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply or mdf about 18x24.
Measure over to find the distance from the side of your tablesaw miter slot
to the blade. Add 1/2" and using the framing square strike a line along
the bottom of the ply (or mdf). Get or cut a piece of stock that will just
fit in the miter slot and attach it to the ply making sure you keep it dead
even with, and touching the line on its right side (left when you have the
ply upside down). Attach with glue and screws then put the runner in the
miter slot and cut to size.

Using your framing square, place it on the right side of the sled with the
point about centered on the sled. Move it out until both corresponding 2"
marks just intersect the side of the sled. Mark, very carefully along both
legs of the square. Cut some dead square 3/4" stock and carefully attach
along those lines with screws and glue, allowing them to extend far enough
past the side that the back of the piece overhangs the sled.

I have one I have been using for years and would not trade it for the world.
BTW, the reason for striking two lines on the top is two fold. You might
be like me and get one of them a bit off. The other reason is if both are
dead on, you can cut both sides without having to reset.

I know there are more involved sleds, but this one works for me.

Deb

"CBlood59" wrote in message

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

"CBlood59" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

I am able to do the job with my table saw alone. But I have a sliding table
that makes it a piece of cake. They come out right every time.

One approach to "fine tuning" a miter quickly is with a hand plane and a
shop made miter trimmer. See Jeff Gorman's page on shooting planes and scan
down the page to the picture of the miter trimmer.
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...otingindex.htm.

If you're doing this commercially, then the fastest way is probably the
dedicated miter slicer. I think they cost about $150-$200.

Bob

"CBlood59" wrote in message
...

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Here's a link to a much simpler shooting plane for miters.

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tmp.jpg

Bob

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 09:08:03 -0500, "Dr. deb"
wrote:

I have one I have been using for years and would not trade it for the world.


The World just called asking about a possible trade. Interested?

"CBlood59" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

Hi, Curt,

The other factor to take into account is that the lengths of opposing sides
must be exactly equal. If they're not, then the most perfect 45 degree
mitres will not fit.

HTH

Frank


---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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Subject: mitering a picture frame
From: "Swingman"
Date: Wed, Oct 20, 2004 2:14 PM
Message-id:


"CBlood59" wrote in message

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04






Using a TS.

Curt Blood

Thanks, everybody.

Curt Blood

"Frank McVey" wrote in message
...
Hi, Curt,

The other factor to take into account is that the lengths of opposing
sides must be exactly equal. If they're not, then the most perfect 45
degree mitres will not fit.


Exactly and just as important. I suggest using a stop for parallel sides to
insure exact equal length.

"CBlood59" wrote in message

Using a TS.

Consider making a miter sled like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my
website.

Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point
(particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the
order of cut insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a
stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length.

These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with less
tweaking.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, (CBlood59) wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood


I have 2 reliable methods.

1) miter sled on the table saw
2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)

Bridger:
1) miter sled on the table saw
2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)

3) Disk sander.

UA100

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:18:59 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

Consider making a miter sled like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my
website.

Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point
(particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the
order of cut insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a
stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length.

These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with less
tweaking.

I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
the sled? Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the frame
sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?
TIA. -- Igor

"Dr. deb" wrote in message
...

(snipped interesting stuff)


I know there are more involved sleds, but this one works for me.

Deb



Can you post a pic in binaries?

Mekon

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 16:24:26 -0500, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Bridger:
1) miter sled on the table saw
2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)

3) Disk sander.

UA100


yabbut I don't have one of those. the list of _theoretical_ methods is
long....

There are two critical items for good picture frames. One is the angle
cut itself which is discussed in the other post. The other and equally
important is the length of the sides. You can have a most precise
angle cut but if the opposite side are not precisely equal you will get
poor corners.

I cut the miter on the sides so they are about a quarter inch longer
than I need for the picture. I them match the opposite sides and fasten
them together with an inconspicuous nail or a good clamp.

I the carefully trim the paired side by an eight of an inch on each end.

Even with the above procedure if the piece slide during the final miter
cuts, they will not be true and again bad corners.



CBlood59 wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

Check with your local Frame Shop, find out if they have a chopper, and have
them miter them on the chopper. (not to be confused with a miter saw) these
use knives instead of rotating blades, a much nicer edge, particularly on
finished stock

"CBlood59" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
something better than endless tweaking.

Curt Blood

Bridger John:
yabbut I don't have one of those. the list of _theoretical_ methods is
long....


Now waidaminute. You've got a Lion but no disk finisher?

Wow!

UA100, lover of all things motorized and abrasive and only
needing a stroker to round out the group...

"igor" wrote in message

I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
the sled?

Don't really need but one "stop" since you _always_ make the cuts in a
particular sequence if you want to take advantage of the built-in
complementary angle and length precision.

Having only one stop allows the two oppopsing sides to be precision cut to
length (as well as keeping you from cutting out of sequence).

Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the
frame
sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?

For a "stop" on the left, simply cut from "right to left".

IOW, on each piece make your first miter cut to the right of the blade and
make your second miter cut, for length, to the left of the blade.

Obviously, always cut the two pieces that need to be the same length before
moving the stop.

Easy/elegant/dummy proof ... and I need all of the latter I can get.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

"Swingman" wrote in message news:...
"igor" wrote in message

I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before
my
framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
the sled?

One thing I forgot to mention that it is so obvious that only a dummy could
miss it, but always make your cuts with the same face up. Of course, neither
you nor I would ever fail to do that, would we?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:26:00 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Bridger John:
yabbut I don't have one of those. the list of _theoretical_ methods is
long....


Now waidaminute. You've got a Lion but no disk finisher?

Wow!

UA100, lover of all things motorized and abrasive and only
needing a stroker to round out the group...


yeah, I see then belt/disk things from time to time and figure it
would prolly come in handy. maybe someday I'll get one.

I _do_ have a real nice microscope. does that make up for it?

Now I see. Thanks for the additional details. -- Igor

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 06:57:56 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:
"igor" wrote in message

I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
the sled?

Don't really need but one "stop" since you _always_ make the cuts in a
particular sequence if you want to take advantage of the built-in
complementary angle and length precision.

Having only one stop allows the two oppopsing sides to be precision cut to
length (as well as keeping you from cutting out of sequence).

Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the
frame
sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?

For a "stop" on the left, simply cut from "right to left".

IOW, on each piece make your first miter cut to the right of the blade and
make your second miter cut, for length, to the left of the blade.

Obviously, always cut the two pieces that need to be the same length before
moving the stop.

Easy/elegant/dummy proof ... and I need all of the latter I can get.