Things I Like About This Saw:

Power. Twice the power of my old saw, and plenty good enough for all the
work I do. No more stalling out on rip cuts in 2" walnut with smoke rolling
off the stock. And it only takes 110 volts.

Height of the table top. I'm tall, and this saw has a more comfortable
working level, especially after I put it on a mobile stand.

Quiet. This saw is way less noisy than my old Craftsman contractor's saw.
The blade that came with the saw runs quieter than any other blade I have.

Rip Fence. The Biesemeyer is great. It is dead on accurate, locks like a
fortress, and slides like silk across the table. Including this in the saw
package was a major factor in my decision to buy Craftsman.

Outfeed table. The folding support table is a nice touch. It saves me from
having to use extension roller supports for some cuts.

Finish. The saw table is highly polished and is smooth as can be. With a
coat of wax, wood literally floats across it.

Things to Fix:

The table was not parallel to the blade. After a call to tech support, I
loosened the attachment screws and tapped it into alignment. The heeling
adjustment is something the factory should've done.

The printed angle scale on the miter gauge is off a degree on one side. If
you use the positive stops, that's not a problem, but if you are relying on
the printed number, it will leave you off one degree, but only on one side.
A lapse in quality control.

Minor Annoyances:

The cast iron "ears" for leveling the blade insert get in the way of
changing the blade. The four of them stick out and scrape your hand while
you work to screw off the nut and washer holding the blade on.

The serial number is unreadable on the model number decal.

Storing the miter gauge and fence in the bracket provided on the left side
of the saw cabinet ends up bumping into the rear outfeed table when it is
folded down.

Some of the assembly instructions are wrong. So what else is new? One
Example: The rear fence rail is supposed to be fastened to the table with
nuts and bolts; instead, the saw table is drilled with threaded holes for
the screws.

OldSalemWood writes:

Things I Like About This Saw:

I agree with the list.

Things to Fix:

The table was not parallel to the blade. After a call to tech support, I
loosened the attachment screws and tapped it into alignment. The heeling
adjustment is something the factory should've done.

Mine was spot on. I just rechecked it yesterday before cutting some
particleboard for shop shelves.

The printed angle scale on the miter gauge is off a degree on one side. If
you use the positive stops, that's not a problem, but if you are relying on
the printed number, it will leave you off one degree, but only on one side.
A lapse in quality control.

I need to check this. I seldom use miter gauges.

Minor Annoyances:

The cast iron "ears" for leveling the blade insert get in the way of
changing the blade. The four of them stick out and scrape your hand while
you work to screw off the nut and washer holding the blade on.
To be honest, I forgot about these the second time I pulled and re-installed
the blade.

Quick note: Leecraft zero clearance inserts made for Delta Unisaws will fit the
hole here and will adjust to the correct level. If anything, they are a tad
loose. The stock insert has a holddown screw. The inserts do not. Use care with
them or they'll rise up and getcha.

My gripe he the holddown screw is an Allen head type. It should be Phillips,
I think, because in most shops #1 Phillips screwdviers are easier to locate
than Allen wrenches of the correct size--one comes with the saw, but odds are
it will be lost in a month.


The serial number is unreadable on the model number decal.

Haven't looked.

Storing the miter gauge and fence in the bracket provided on the left side
of the saw cabinet ends up bumping into the rear outfeed table when it is
folded down.

And putting the arbor wrenches on the hook provided makes for an interesting
reach when it's blade changing time.


Some of the assembly instructions are wrong. So what else is new? One
Example: The rear fence rail is supposed to be fastened to the table with
nuts and bolts; instead, the saw table is drilled with threaded holes for
the screws.

And on the outfeed table, the connection under the table is U shaped. I
inserted the linkage into that U before assembly. The table doesn't work that
way. The linkage must be assembled to one side or the other of the U. No
drawings to show that what is to me a logical construct is not the way to go,
so a bit of time wasted.

I talked to a couple of the tech guys early in the week. Changes are being made
to the manual. The original manual was partially written from engineering specs
and drawings before the first saw arrived. Changes have been made.

This saw is a brand new design, so it's fairly impressive that it is as right
as it is. I'm told demand is intense, too. The design was aimed at correcting
as many of the problems with older Craftsman saws as possible, while adding
some features not often seen on similarly priced saws--cabinet style table
mounting, cast iron trunnions, super high table polish...and, on the top model,
that Biesemeyer fence.

Charlie Self
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
Baker