A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
lignum.

My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?

Robert

IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years, It
is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.

IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years, It
is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.


Don't you think anyone would've dried them before waxing them? I do! Point of
the wax is to keep water "out".

Alex

On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 21:03:27 -0700, "AArDvarK"
wrote:


IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years, It
is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.


Don't you think anyone would've dried them before waxing them? I do! Point of
the wax is to keep water "out".

Alex


It may have been there to slow the drying, letting the wood stabilize
without checking. The wax isn't going to stop moisture migration
entirely.



Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


"We have achieved the inversion of the single note."
__ Peter Ustinov as Karlheinz Stckhausen

IMHO the wax is all natural, it'a residue of sap that has dryed.

Claude

"Leon" a écrit dans le message de
news
IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years,
It
is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.

Claude Livernoche schreef
IMHO the wax is all natural, it'a residue of sap that has dryed.

+ + +
No. It isn't.
PvR

On 3 Aug 2004 15:45:44 -0700, (Robert) wrote:

A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
lignum.

My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?

Buy them anyway. I haven't made aplane from LV, but I have a lovely
razee jack with a LV body (beech tote and wedge) that has stayed true.
It is made from the center of the log. I wouldn't have the guts to try
such a thing, but it apparently worked.

I also have a boat-shaped smooth plane, stamped "Crocker" that is also
made on the center, but it has cracked on the side of the opening.

It does look as if the pith is not a problem with LV anyway. I don't
see any reason not to try it.

If it isn't stable after 50 years it never will be.



Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


"We have achieved the inversion of the single note."
__ Peter Ustinov as Karlheinz Stckhausen

My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?

you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.
but once LV is dry it stays put. I found when I used it for soles I had to cut
it and leave it for a couple weeks atleast before I used it. this was stuff that
sat around for a long time. it's hard to tell when it is really dry.


--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 05:30:31 GMT, Steve Knight
wrote:

you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.

These are face-centred blanks, not boxed heart. They don't _include_
the central pith, they're just tangential slices but where a radius
would pass through the cente of the board's face. I understand that
this is important for good wearing properties when used as propellor
shaft bearings.

In some forms of woodworking (such as timber framing) you might
actually prefer to box the heart, because it keeps the movement as
twisting (which you can cope with) rather than cupping (which is
harder).
--
Smert' spamionam

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 05:30:31 GMT, Steve Knight
wrote:

you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.

These are face-centred blanks, not boxed heart. They don't _include_
the central pith, they're just tangential slices but where a radius
would pass through the cente of the board's face. I understand that
this is important for good wearing properties when used as propellor
shaft bearings.

In some forms of woodworking (such as timber framing) you might
actually prefer to box the heart, because it keeps the movement as
twisting (which you can cope with) rather than cupping (which is
harder).

Actuallu, these blanks are what you are referring to "boxed heart".
The center of the tree runs down the middle of the long axis of the
blank, so central pith is included.

Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.

Robert

Careful about splitting: could be horrible with interlocked grain.
Check first. Sawing won't be that easy but should be doable
PvR

Robert schreef
Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.

Robert

"P van Rijckevorsel" wrote in message ...
Careful about splitting: could be horrible with interlocked grain.
Check first. Sawing won't be that easy but should be doable
PvR

By splitting I meant cutting it in half with a band saw or table saw.

On 6 Aug 2004 00:02:43 -0700, (Robert) wrote:

Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.

Robert


Robert-

you might want to do a search of the google archives:
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q=drill%20press%20as%20mill&safe=images& ie=UTF-8&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&hl=en
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=drill+press+as+mill&btnG=Search&meta=group%3Dr ec.crafts.metalworking
for information about using your drill press as a mill. what you're
likely to find is that the chances of having it work without ruining
your expensve chunk of wood are slim.

speaking of LV soles just look at this plane,
eBay: 4315524984 I'd love to have that!

Alex

I would be interested in one of these blocks from the lumber yard.
Could you send me there phone number?
Thanks
Jack

(Robert) wrote in message . com...
A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
lignum.

My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?

Robert

(jack) wrote in message . com...
I would be interested in one of these blocks from the lumber yard.
Could you send me there phone number?
Thanks
Jack

Handloggers in Richmond, CA (just north of Berkeley, CA) has them.
You can check them out at www.handloggers.com. In general, they are a
great lumber yard -- helpful people and a big selection. I believe
they are mentioned on the woodworking school at the College of
Redwooods website as onee of their sources for lumber.

PALS (Plywood and Lumber Sales) in Oakland, CA is another good place
for lumber. They don't quite have the selection of hardwoods that
Handloggers has but their prices are great. They also have a huge
selection of hardwood plywoods.

While I'm on the subject of lumber yards -- there's a place in
Berkeley called MacBeath Hardwords that carries lignum vitae (although
nothing bigger than 2" by 2"). I've never been to a place with more
arrogant and unhelpful staff or with prices that are more outrageous.
They are very well know in the bay area and it's too bad because the
place is really miserable. I recommend avoiding them as much as
possible.