I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase project..

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 07:56:46 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50” book case on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


Not to compete with the good advice you will get here but
the Lee Valley product descriptions often include an "Instr" link
with some good details.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...20&cat=3,41241

John T.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50" book case on
top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The base
cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common size.
I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to factor
them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for the face
frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and face
frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.

Regarding the face frames, you need to consider how much overlay you intend
to have on the doors. That will affect your choice of hinge too as there
are various overlays available in hinges..

I always make my door overlay 1/2". That means that if two adjacent doors
hinge on the same stile, 1" of the face frame will be covered. If your face
frames are 2", the reveal will be 1". If there are NOT two adjacent doors
hinge on the same stile, the reveal would be 1.5".

On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.

Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed. Got Sketchup? ;~)

I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face frame
stile. I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO so are
the carcass mounted Euro hinges.

I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n

I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you with
details that might not pertain to you.

On 1/2/2018 7:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase
project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case
on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The
base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common
size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to
factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for
the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and
face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.

Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed.Â* Got Sketchup?Â* ;~)

I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face frame
stile.Â* I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO so are
the carcass mounted Euro hinges.

I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n

I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you with
details that might not pertain to you.


FWIW I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge.

On 1/2/2018 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase
project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case
on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The
base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common
size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to
factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for
the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and
face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.

Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed.Â* Got Sketchup?Â* ;~)

I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face
frame stile.Â* I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO
so are the carcass mounted Euro hinges.

I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n

I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you.


FWIW I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge.

ONE MORE thing. Euro hinges typically use a 35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom
hole in the door and they must be accurately placed from the edge of the
door. Do you have the capability of doing that? A DP is necessary IMHO.

On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 8:21:13 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase
project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case
on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The
base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common
size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to
factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for
the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and
face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.

Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed.Â* Got Sketchup?Â* ;~)

I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face
frame stile.Â* I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO
so are the carcass mounted Euro hinges.

I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n

I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you.


FWIW I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge.

ONE MORE thing. Euro hinges typically use a 35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom
hole in the door and they must be accurately placed from the edge of the
door. Do you have the capability of doing that? A DP is necessary IMHO.

Addressing all of your points here...

"Got Sketchup? ;~)"

OK...I deserved that. ;-) "Someone" sent me a set of drawings that
I've dabbled with but have not spent nearly enough time on.

"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

"I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge."

A 1/2" overlay was my plan.

"35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom hole...A DP is necessary"

Not a problem, just need to buy the bit. Of course, I could chisel out
square holes and then cut rounded corner fillers on the band saw. ;-)

"I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you."

As I said in my OP, this is one of those "I don't know what I don't know"
situations. Therefore I don't know what variables might or might not pertain
to me. In any case, I doubt I'll be bored with any details you wish to
discuss.

On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 8:21:13 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 7:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase
project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case
on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The
base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common
size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to
factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for
the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and
face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


With the style Blum Euro hinges I use I never really consider the face
frame width dimensions.

Use the size face frame that looks good with the doors and drawers
closed.Â* Got Sketchup?Â* ;~)

I use face frame euro hinges that mount on the "EDGE" of the face
frame stile.Â* I have used surface mount Euro and those are a PIA, IMHO
so are the carcass mounted Euro hinges.

I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place has
good prices for lesser quantities.

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-comp...g-hinges-b038n

I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you.


FWIW I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge.

ONE MORE thing. Euro hinges typically use a 35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom
hole in the door and they must be accurately placed from the edge of the
door. Do you have the capability of doing that? A DP is necessary IMHO.

Addressing all of your points here...

"Got Sketchup? ;~)"

OK...I deserved that. ;-) "Someone" sent me a set of drawings that
I've dabbled with but have not spent nearly enough time on.

Sketchup, any drawing will show you the proportions better than simply
calculating a number in your head. Typically I like the outer exposed
perimeter of the face frame to appear wider than the portions between
doors and drawers. I also like for the exposed outer face frame width
to be between 1/2 to 2/3 the width of the doors and drawer frame parts.



"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.

If the door is solid enough, read that as the panel does not rattle when
closing normally, soft close adds little noise control. I have 3/16"
glass in our pantry doors and those doors are adjusted so that there is
no slap sound when they close. The glass is tight and the door bottom
and top strikes the FF at exactly same time. I get a light sound
similar to a "timpani" in the distance.



"I always use the 1/2" overlay screw on hinge."

A 1/2" overlay was my plan.

OK, and normally with that hinge the door is 1" wider and taller than
the opening.





"35mm/1-3/8" flat bottom hole...A DP is necessary"

Not a problem, just need to buy the bit. Of course, I could chisel out
square holes and then cut rounded corner fillers on the band saw. ;-)

All set! However, I drilled hundreds of holes with a typical Forstner
style bit with a shank about 3~4". Several years ago I bought a Rockler
carbide bit for that purpose and it has a shank about 1" long. I wish
it had the longer shank for deeper holes. The Rockler bit is pretty
much suited for drilling hinge holes and that is about it.


"I can discuss a number of variables but would not want to bore you
with details that might not pertain to you."

As I said in my OP, this is one of those "I don't know what I don't know"
situations. Therefore I don't know what variables might or might not pertain
to me. In any case, I doubt I'll be bored with any details you wish to
discuss.


FWIW my FF's are wide enough to allow for about 1/4"~1/2" to extend past
outside the cabinet carcass. PLUS 3/4" for the Carcass side panel to
dado into the back side of the FF. PLUS 1/2" to 3/4" on the opposite,
inside, of the carcass side panel The 1/2" to 3/4" on inside allows for
a same thickness piece of plywood to fill the gap between in the inside
edge of the FF and the cabinet panel. This allows slides to have a
solid mounting plate even with the edge of the opening.

Notice that inside drawer opening detail here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And the outer detail here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And how the carcass side panel fits into the grove on the back side of
the FF here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Let me know if you have any other questions.

On 1/2/2018 10:23 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 07:56:46 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've started building the base cabinet for SWMBO's kitchen bookcase project.

The base cabinet will be 33" wide by 32" tall, with an ~50€� book case on top. I'm using 3/4"
(nominal) Poplar plywood for the cabinet boxes and book cases. The base cabinet doors will be
shaker style overlay doors, like these (just doors, no drawers)

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KEKkDdQn3cE/hqdefault.jpg

I've been reading about face frame widths and 2" seems to be a common size. I know nothing
about the Euro style concealed hinges, but I assume that I need to factor them into the face
frame and door design. The plan was to use 3/4" (actual) poplar for the face frames and doors.
Everything will eventually be painted.

I'm looking for advice, sources, steps, etc. regarding the hinges and face frames. This is one of
those "I don't know what I don't know" situations.

Thanks for any and all input.


Not to compete with the good advice you will get here but
the Lee Valley product descriptions often include an "Instr" link
with some good details.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...20&cat=3,41241

John T.



Just a FYI, I agree with your example above, the Lee Valley link...
BUT the link provided, where I normally buy that referenced hinge, is
1/4th the price of the Lee Valley hinges.

At the moment about $2.25 per pair vs. $10.60 at Lee Valley in
quantities of 50 hinges.

Just in case you have been buying those hinges from LV.

On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

....snip...

"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.


IMHO, I don't see why anyone would force a soft close door closed. Ever
since I installed the soft close drawer slides in my kitchen, I just push
the drawers towards closed and let the mechanism do the rest. I don't see
why I would close the doors any differently, although I'll admit I've
never lived with self closing or soft closing doors.

If the door is solid enough, read that as the panel does not rattle when
closing normally, soft close adds little noise control

I guess I wasn't thinking of the soft close feature as a noise control
device. I just like the coolness of having the mechanism take over after
a gentle push. ;-)

I'm going to try the soft close on this project. If I don't like/need them,
I can switch to the self close version for the 20+ plus doors. Much cheaper.

On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

....snip...

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Let me know if you have any other questions.

What's in the fridge?

On 1/3/2018 6:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

...snip...

"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.


IMHO, I don't see why anyone would force a soft close door closed. Ever
since I installed the soft close drawer slides in my kitchen, I just push
the drawers towards closed and let the mechanism do the rest. I don't see
why I would close the doors any differently, although I'll admit I've
never lived with self closing or soft closing doors.

Almost every person I know has pushed closed a soft close drawer. Most
all drawers and doors are self close and most people push them closed
until just before they slam. IIRC soft closer start the soft close
several inches before the door is closed. You do get used to this but
those not familiar will still try to close the doors.




If the door is solid enough, read that as the panel does not rattle when
closing normally, soft close adds little noise control

I guess I wasn't thinking of the soft close feature as a noise control
device. I just like the coolness of having the mechanism take over after
a gentle push. ;-)

I'm going to try the soft close on this project. If I don't like/need them,
I can switch to the self close version for the 20+ plus doors. Much cheaper.


Most of the soft close hinges can have that feature defeated. At least
the Blum brand that I use. The ones I pointed out are normal however.

On 1/3/2018 6:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

...snip...

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Let me know if you have any other questions.

What's in the fridge?


Frozen stuff.

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 21:45:48 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/3/2018 6:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

...snip...

"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.


IMHO, I don't see why anyone would force a soft close door closed. Ever
since I installed the soft close drawer slides in my kitchen, I just push
the drawers towards closed and let the mechanism do the rest. I don't see
why I would close the doors any differently, although I'll admit I've
never lived with self closing or soft closing doors.

Almost every person I know has pushed closed a soft close drawer. Most
all drawers and doors are self close and most people push them closed
until just before they slam. IIRC soft closer start the soft close
several inches before the door is closed. You do get used to this but
those not familiar will still try to close the doors.

We've had them on, believe it or not, the Amish furniture we bought
ten years ago. We've never had any need to push the drawers closed.
Just a little touch and they travel the rest of the way. Why would
one force them?



If the door is solid enough, read that as the panel does not rattle when
closing normally, soft close adds little noise control

I guess I wasn't thinking of the soft close feature as a noise control
device. I just like the coolness of having the mechanism take over after
a gentle push. ;-)

I'm going to try the soft close on this project. If I don't like/need them,
I can switch to the self close version for the 20+ plus doors. Much cheaper.


Most of the soft close hinges can have that feature defeated. At least
the Blum brand that I use. The ones I pointed out are normal however.

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 21:46:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/3/2018 6:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

...snip...

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Let me know if you have any other questions.

What's in the fridge?


Frozen stuff.

Same stuff as outside?

On 1/3/18 9:46 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/3/2018 6:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

...snip...

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Let me know if you have any other questions.

What's in the fridge?


Frozen stuff.

Beer. You ain't foolin' no one.

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 1/3/2018 9:58 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 21:45:48 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/3/2018 6:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/2/2018 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

...snip...

"I buy these in lots of 50 to get better pricing, still this place
has good prices for lesser quantities. (wwhardware)"

I'm waiting on my (your) heavy duty levelers from them as we speak. I'll
check out their hinges too. I think I want soft close but not sure yet. The
doors for this unit will be practice for the 20 other doors I plan to make
for the rest of the kitchen.

I have never been a fan of soft close doors, IMHO they can cause undue
stress on the face frames if "forced" to close faster than their delay
mechanism would normally allow. That may of may not be a valid point
but it is what I think every time I close a soft close door.


IMHO, I don't see why anyone would force a soft close door closed. Ever
since I installed the soft close drawer slides in my kitchen, I just push
the drawers towards closed and let the mechanism do the rest. I don't see
why I would close the doors any differently, although I'll admit I've
never lived with self closing or soft closing doors.

Almost every person I know has pushed closed a soft close drawer. Most
all drawers and doors are self close and most people push them closed
until just before they slam. IIRC soft closer start the soft close
several inches before the door is closed. You do get used to this but
those not familiar will still try to close the doors.

We've had them on, believe it or not, the Amish furniture we bought
ten years ago. We've never had any need to push the drawers closed.
Just a little touch and they travel the rest of the way. Why would
one force them?

If you are used to soft closed drawers they are great. But most friends
that don't know about our soft close drawers push them closed.
And the doors work differently they tend to start the soft close about
halfway closed from full open. You tend to hold on to the door so that
it does not slam, well past the point of the soft close feature engaging.

On 1/3/2018 10:33 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/3/18 9:46 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/3/2018 6:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 10:32:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

...snip...

One more example of another cabinet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/




Let me know if you have any other questions.

What's in the fridge?


Frozen stuff.

Beer.Â* You ain't foolin' no one.


No the temp gauge on the freer says 4 degrees F.