I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

On 1/25/17 7:41 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?


Staple cardboard to the back, or a thin sheet product like 1/4" Luan or
1/8" hardboard.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

sawdustmaker wrote:
I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

I've seen "pocket holes" (not Kreg) in at least one (antique) frame. The
2 different profiles are most-likely not going to meet nicely at the
corners, which makes me think you might wish to reconsider. Are you
going to cut rebates for the mirror and a fiberboard insert? If the
mirror is large (and heavy), you may wish to consider whether the design
you are proposing is safe. Maybe you can introduce to your customer
other possible design alternatives? Have you considered how the mirrors
will be hung?

A "quick answer" to the specific question you asked is probably
something like "fiberboard (behind the corners) and a staple gun".

Bill

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 +0000, sawdustmaker wrote:

I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued
but not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport
in a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

Pocket screws would be one possibility, depending on the thickness of
your moulding. Biscuits or some other sort of spline might also work.
Stapling the back side of the joints works for me building window casings.

Cheers,
Colin

On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 7:41:43 PM UTC-6, sawdustmaker wrote:
I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

IF the stock is as thin as you say indicate it is, pocket screws and splines are out. Mike is right, about stapling stock to the back of the corners (triangular pieces ), but I would go with the 1/8" stock, either the hardboard or aircraft quality plywood.

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 +0000, sawdustmaker wrote:

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

Veneer.


--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 GMT
sawdustmaker wrote:

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the
glue joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?

would make a temporary frame with corners secured with wingnuts
so you can remove easily

maybe make them slide so they are adjustable and reusable

this below is not temporary

not sure what the correct term is for this method

once the frame is assembled you cut across the outside corners
then you glue a triangular biscuit in then sand

this one does not protrude into the picture space

another method is similar but one face of the biscuit is exposed
and it crosses over the picture space

or you can do at the back so it is concealed

the look is nice for either one
usually use different wood type for the biscuit so it stands out

also need a jig on the table saw

One could get a thin sheet of AL cut to size at Lowes or HD . Then
punch holes in the corners and sides. Mount to back.

Or get Plastic sheet for the same.

Small frames that have heavy coins within I put sheet brass.

Martin

On 1/25/2017 7:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/25/17 7:41 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued
but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to
transport in
a car.

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?


Staple cardboard to the back, or a thin sheet product like 1/4" Luan or
1/8" hardboard.

Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 GMT
sawdustmaker wrote:

I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the
glue joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
would make a temporary frame with corners secured with wingnuts
so you can remove easily

maybe make them slide so they are adjustable and reusable

this below is not temporary

not sure what the correct term is for this method

once the frame is assembled you cut across the outside corners
then you glue a triangular biscuit in then sand

Do you really mean "biscuit"?




this one does not protrude into the picture space

another method is similar but one face of the biscuit is exposed
and it crosses over the picture space

or you can do at the back so it is concealed

the look is nice for either one
usually use different wood type for the biscuit so it stands out

also need a jig on the table saw