6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Electric Comet wrote in news5j8un$a9m$4
@dont-email.me:


6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better


Yeah - Sawstop only accepts 8". (learned the hard way on a Sunday
afternoon)

sawdustmaker wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news5j8un$a9m$4
@dont-email.me:


6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Yeah - Sawstop only accepts 8". (learned the hard way on a Sunday
afternoon)

Can't you use the 6" dado without the "brake"?

On 1/16/2017 10:18 PM, Bill wrote:
sawdustmaker wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news5j8un$a9m$4
@dont-email.me:


6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Yeah - Sawstop only accepts 8". (learned the hard way on a Sunday
afternoon)

Can't you use the 6" dado without the "brake"?



No. The saw will not start with out a brake. Being able to do so would
be pretty short sighted.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 04:11:01 GMT
sawdustmaker wrote:

Yeah - Sawstop only accepts 8". (learned the hard way on a Sunday
afternoon)

not a factor but interesting

over the holidays two non woodworkers knew about sawstop and asked
about it

one thing is clear again
the general public has a perception of table saws being very dangerous

but only table saws

they never worry about all the impaired drivers on the road now
etc etc etc

On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed down.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough spots.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:07:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed down.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough spots.

Not sure the momentum helps but the tip speed difference adds
significantly (+80%), too.

On 1/25/2017 10:07 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed down.

That's the trick, but an 8" blade is making a deep cut at the top of the
lift where blade/knife/shim changing is easier. So tricks aside, you
are doing a lot of raising and lowering of blades than with the smaller set.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

True, and that would be important if you did a lot of this type of
cabinet work. Myself, if I'm making 2" notches in 4x4's, I'm usually
doing outside work, and use the band saw or circular saw, not my dado
blade.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough
spots.

I guess if your making 2" deep cuts 3/4" inch wide it could be an issue,
but if I made such cuts with a dado set, and I don't, I'd make them in
multiple passes, much like you would with a router. 99.9999% of my dado
cuts are less than 3/4" deep, mostly 1/4 to 1/2".

I've owned two sets, a 7" and a new 8" and I much prefer the 7" set.
Never had any issues with the 7" set, but my Freud 8" set is a bitch to
set up as well as change blades/knives/shims. You'd think 1" would make
little difference, but it makes a lot of difference, and the Freud blade
design is strange and not very intuitive, and as far as I can tell has
zero advantages.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 1/25/2017 9:42 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:07:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed down.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough spots.

Not sure the momentum helps but the tip speed difference adds
significantly (+80%), too.

Yet in real life usage, the difference is insignificant, at least for 7"
vs 8".

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 1/27/2017 12:00 PM, Jack wrote:
On 1/25/2017 10:07 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any
upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed
down.

That's the trick, but an 8" blade is making a deep cut at the top of the
lift where blade/knife/shim changing is easier. So tricks aside, you
are doing a lot of raising and lowering of blades than with the smaller
set.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

True, and that would be important if you did a lot of this type of
cabinet work. Myself, if I'm making 2" notches in 4x4's, I'm usually
doing outside work, and use the band saw or circular saw, not my dado
blade.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough
spots.

I guess if your making 2" deep cuts 3/4" inch wide it could be an issue,
but if I made such cuts with a dado set, and I don't, I'd make them in
multiple passes, much like you would with a router. 99.9999% of my dado
cuts are less than 3/4" deep, mostly 1/4 to 1/2".

I've owned two sets, a 7" and a new 8" and I much prefer the 7" set.
Never had any issues with the 7" set, but my Freud 8" set is a bitch to
set up as well as change blades/knives/shims. You'd think 1" would make
little difference, but it makes a lot of difference, and the Freud blade
design is strange and not very intuitive, and as far as I can tell has
zero advantages.


And really, you are only reaching 1/2" deeper for an 8" over a 7" but
some times that is all it takes.

On 1/27/2017 12:04 PM, Jack wrote:
On 1/25/2017 9:42 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:07:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/25/2017 8:27 AM, Jack wrote:
On 1/16/2017 3:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

6 inch dado versus 8 inch

6 inch should be plenty for me but i am wondering if there is any
upside
to 8 inch that i am not considering

besides all the obvious things like
increased depth of cut
faster blade rotation

any other things that make 8 inch better

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"
deep dado and are doing test cuts adding/removing shims. The blade on
the 8" is almost at the bottom of the travel so the bolt holding the
blade is deeper on the 8" blade making it more difficult getting the
bolt off and changing cutters than on a 6" blade. On the small blade
the bolt is near the top of the saw and easy to get your hands in there
to add and remove stuff.

I wore out a 7" dado and bought an 8" Freud and it is a lot harder
putting on and removing blades than you would think. If I had it to do
over, I would get the smaller blade.


The trick is to adjust height "after" you get the width of cut nailed
down.

An 8" blade is going to be better suited for notching 4x4's to receive
2x4 material. 8" cuts to about 2" deep, 6" is limited to about 1 deep.

One last tidbit, an 8" dado blade has almost 3 times the mass of a 6"
dado blade. That mass will have more momentum to power through tough
spots.

Not sure the momentum helps but the tip speed difference adds
significantly (+80%), too.

Yet in real life usage, the difference is insignificant, at least for 7"
vs 8".



Probably only significant if you are using a marginally powered saw to
begin with.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

and why has no one devised a blade cassette



there is no innovation in this regard that i know of

Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

and why has no one devised a blade cassette



there is no innovation in this regard that i know of

Sometimes the existing solution is so simple, so rugged, and so robust
that innovation is unlikely to get off the ground. You've got a threaded
shaft and nut on millions of table saws out there operating trouble free
for forever, why change it?

Let's say you come up with this cassette thing. How does it work? Slot
load like a CD? What happens if the spinning disk comes loose? Boom! it
hits the sides and it's all ok. If the spinning blade comes loose,
you've got this heavy thing with sharp teeth going in a random
direction... I don't want to be within 20 miles of your shop if that
happens!

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 27 Jan 2017 23:32:34 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

and why has no one devised a blade cassette



there is no innovation in this regard that i know of

Sometimes the existing solution is so simple, so rugged, and so robust
that innovation is unlikely to get off the ground. You've got a threaded
shaft and nut on millions of table saws out there operating trouble free
for forever, why change it?

I sometimes drop the arbor nut inside the saw and have to disconnect
the dust collector to fish it out.

I just realized that I have one of those car antenna sort of things
with a magnet on the end. Never thought of using it when I was
grousing about dropping the nut. Again.

Let's say you come up with this cassette thing. How does it work? Slot
load like a CD? What happens if the spinning disk comes loose? Boom! it
hits the sides and it's all ok. If the spinning blade comes loose,
you've got this heavy thing with sharp teeth going in a random
direction... I don't want to be within 20 miles of your shop if that
happens!

It would be nice to have, perhaps, but I wouldn't pay very much for
it. As you said, the system works and it's simple and reliable.

On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.

On 1/27/17 9:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.


If I know the thickness of the part that fits into the dado (measure
with calipers), I'll stack my dado and shims on a surface plate, press
down, then measure the stack thickness. All done before mounting the
blades in the saw. Typically I'll add a few thousandths to the stack
thickness to get a precise fit (amount to add is based on trial/error).

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

-BR

On 1/28/2017 9:27 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/27/17 9:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.


If I know the thickness of the part that fits into the dado (measure
with calipers), I'll stack my dado and shims on a surface plate, press
down, then measure the stack thickness. All done before mounting the
blades in the saw. Typically I'll add a few thousandths to the stack
thickness to get a precise fit (amount to add is based on trial/error).

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

-BR



I do the same but stack the set on the arbor and hand tighten the arbor
nut. I always make a test cut but seldom have to make any other
adjustments.

On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:27:08 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 1/27/17 9:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.


If I know the thickness of the part that fits into the dado (measure
with calipers), I'll stack my dado and shims on a surface plate, press
down, then measure the stack thickness. All done before mounting the
blades in the saw. Typically I'll add a few thousandths to the stack
thickness to get a precise fit (amount to add is based on trial/error).

On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?
"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters? The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.

On 1/28/2017 10:32 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:27:08 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 1/27/17 9:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.


If I know the thickness of the part that fits into the dado (measure
with calipers), I'll stack my dado and shims on a surface plate, press
down, then measure the stack thickness. All done before mounting the
blades in the saw. Typically I'll add a few thousandths to the stack
thickness to get a precise fit (amount to add is based on trial/error).

On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?
"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters? The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.


IMHO the safest place to test/measure a stacked dado width in on the arbor.

On Saturday, January 28, 2017 at 1:29:11 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/28/2017 10:32 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 08:27:08 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 1/27/17 9:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/27/2017 5:32 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news6ge0a$646$1
@dont-email.me:

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 09:27:27 -0500
Jack wrote:

Doubt you would notice the increased speed or depth of cut. It's
unusual to be making deep dado cuts. It is more difficult to add and
remove cutters on the bigger blades. Consider you are making a 3/8"

this is a good consideration

i got a 6 inch set and even that is not a slam dunk

now i wonder if there is a table saw out there with a proper access
panel to make blade changing easier

All of them. If you whine about changing a dado set you need to find
something else to.


If I know the thickness of the part that fits into the dado (measure
with calipers), I'll stack my dado and shims on a surface plate, press
down, then measure the stack thickness. All done before mounting the
blades in the saw. Typically I'll add a few thousandths to the stack
thickness to get a precise fit (amount to add is based on trial/error).

On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?
"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters? The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.


IMHO the safest place to test/measure a stacked dado width in on the arbor.

Especially with the saw running in case there is any run-out. You just have
to hold the calipers real steady. ;-)

On 1/28/17 9:32 AM, wrote:


On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?

Sure, that'll do. I have a granite plate with a height gauge always
handy so I use that. A flat spacer can be used to space the blade off
the surface enough to clear the teeth and a feeler gauge used to record
the offset (to be subtracted from the measured height). This would allow
more pressure to be applied, but a PITA in general.

"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters?

If you over do it. I just press enough to insure the shims and blades
are in contact. Doesn't take much.


The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.



Many ways to do it. The main thing is you can stack the blades off the
saw and not have to deal with the arbor access issues most saws have.

For the organized people among us, one can always keep a record of the
chipper/shim combos used for a particular cut width. Need a cut 0.010"
under your record of a perfect 0.750"?, just subtract a 0.010" shim.

My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

-BR

Brewster wrote in news

My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

-BR


Just an idea... Electrical tape is often a few mil thick. (Read the
package.) If you need just that little shim, a couple pieces of
electrical tape stacked might give you the spacing you need and wouldn't
fall off the chipper.

Electrical tape does stretch and wrinkle, so you might wind up a few thou
off in either direction.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On Sun, 29 Jan 2017 09:00:02 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 1/28/17 9:32 AM, wrote:


On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?

Sure, that'll do. I have a granite plate with a height gauge always
handy so I use that. A flat spacer can be used to space the blade off
the surface enough to clear the teeth and a feeler gauge used to record
the offset (to be subtracted from the measured height). This would allow
more pressure to be applied, but a PITA in general.

I have a granite slab, too, but wasn't sure what you meant. This
sounds like a lot of work to go through (measure height, gap,
subtract) and quite error prone.

"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters?

If you over do it. I just press enough to insure the shims and blades
are in contact. Doesn't take much.

I wouldn't touch the cutters to the anything hard, much less "push
down" on the stack. The bolt idea is worth considering but this
doesn't appeal to me at all.

The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.



Many ways to do it. The main thing is you can stack the blades off the
saw and not have to deal with the arbor access issues most saws have.

For the organized people among us, one can always keep a record of the
chipper/shim combos used for a particular cut width. Need a cut 0.010"
under your record of a perfect 0.750"?, just subtract a 0.010" shim.

My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

Seems like magnetic shims would fix this problem.

On 1/29/2017 10:00 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/28/17 9:32 AM, wrote:


On a "surface plate"? You mean like the saw top?

Sure, that'll do. I have a granite plate with a height gauge always
handy so I use that. A flat spacer can be used to space the blade off
the surface enough to clear the teeth and a feeler gauge used to record
the offset (to be subtracted from the measured height). This would allow
more pressure to be applied, but a PITA in general.

"Press down"? Doesn't that warp the cutters?

If you over do it. I just press enough to insure the shims and blades
are in contact. Doesn't take much.


The teeth are wider
than the plate so it would tend to damage the bottom cutter, no?
This sounds interesting but obviously I'm missing something.

Alternatively you could clamp your stack with a 5/8" bolt/nut and
measure the stack thickness directly with the same calipers.

Another good idea.



Many ways to do it. The main thing is you can stack the blades off the
saw and not have to deal with the arbor access issues most saws have.

For the organized people among us, one can always keep a record of the
chipper/shim combos used for a particular cut width. Need a cut 0.010"
under your record of a perfect 0.750"?, just subtract a 0.010" shim.

My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

-BR

I use magnetic shims and place them on the blade before mounting the
blade. That prevents them from slipping down into the threads.

My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

-BR



On 1/29/17 9:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Electrical tape does stretch and wrinkle, so you might wind up a few
thou
off in either direction.


On 1/29/17 3:18 PM, wrote:
Seems like magnetic shims would fix this problem.


On 1/29/17 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:
I use magnetic shims and place them on the blade before mounting the
blade. That prevents them from slipping down into the threads.


Wow, great suggestions!

The tape is intriguing, but I often end up with 0.030 or more of
shimming, twould be a pain to set up. For a few thous of shimming it
would be quick and easy. Now if they could make the shims like a post-it
note...

I'll look into the magnetic shims. My shim set is copper and brass, and
quite potato chip shaped. The shims that came with my Freud set (which I
haven't used/opened) are steel (and flat). I'm guessing I can magnetize
them fairly easily.


Thanks guys!

-BR

On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 07:52:04 -0700, Brewster wrote:



My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread
grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the
threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to
survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.

-BR



On 1/29/17 9:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Electrical tape does stretch and wrinkle, so you might wind up a few
thou
off in either direction.


On 1/29/17 3:18 PM, wrote:
Seems like magnetic shims would fix this problem.


On 1/29/17 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:
I use magnetic shims and place them on the blade before mounting the
blade. That prevents them from slipping down into the threads.


Wow, great suggestions!

The tape is intriguing, but I often end up with 0.030 or more of
shimming, twould be a pain to set up. For a few thous of shimming it
would be quick and easy. Now if they could make the shims like a post-it
note...

I'll look into the magnetic shims. My shim set is copper and brass, and
quite potato chip shaped. The shims that came with my Freud set (which I
haven't used/opened) are steel (and flat). I'm guessing I can magnetize
them fairly easily.

A magnetic set is only $10-$15

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/m...dadoshims.aspx
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magn...ce=grizzly.com
http://www.forrestblades.com/magnetic-shims-set.html