Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

On Sunday, June 19, 2016 at 11:01:48 PM UTC-5, swalker wrote:


Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

Read the instructions on the can, about recoating. With some polys, you can recoat within a certain time after initial application, without having to sand. After the time limit, it's recommended you sand.

If need be, apply your poly in sections, to remain within the time limit for recoating without having to sand.

Sonny

On 6/19/16 11:01 PM, swalker wrote:

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim


Personally, I think you're doing too much work.
The stuff already resists moisture pretty darn well, so I don't see the
need for poly.
And it's very rough surface, relatively, so the sanding between coats is
a moot point. Sanding between finish coats is for removing any
fuzz/dust that accumulates on the surface and possibly give some "grip"
to the surface. Advantech is already 10x more rough than any dust
accumulation that would occur between coats.

But if I were to coat it, I would use a roll on or spray on deck caoting
or garage floor coating. A thick, latex based garage floor coating
material will be the only thing that would add any smoothing to the
surface of Advantech.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.
Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.
I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.
Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?
Thanks for any comments.
Jim



http://www.huberwood.com/technical-l...lias=advantech

Slab Preparation: Cover the slab with a minimum 4 mil (6 mil
preferred) polyethylene sheeting. The polyethylene sheet should be
glued to the slab with an adhesive that will bond to both concrete and
plastic. All joints in the polyethylene sheeting should be lapped a
minimum 4". These laps should also be glued to ensure an adequate
moisture seal

I wonder what's wrong with a concrete shop floor ?
And how long 2 coats of poly will really last
John T.

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.
Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.
I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.
Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?
Thanks for any comments.
Jim


Personally, I think you're doing too much work.
The stuff already resists moisture pretty darn well, so I don't see the
need for poly.
And it's very rough surface, relatively, so the sanding between coats is
a moot point. Sanding between finish coats is for removing any
fuzz/dust that accumulates on the surface and possibly give some "grip"
to the surface. Advantech is already 10x more rough than any dust
accumulation that would occur between coats.

But if I were to coat it, I would use a roll on or spray on deck caoting
or garage floor coating. A thick, latex based garage floor coating
material will be the only thing that would add any smoothing to the
surface of Advantech.


.. don't forget the oil-based primer coat, under latex ..

http://www.huberwood.com/technical-l...lias=advantech

Can I paint AdvanTech® subflooring and sheathing panels?

AdvanTech panels can be left natural, stained, varnished or painted
with oil- or epoxy-based paints, or oil-based primer and latex paint.
Water seal is not recommended. AdvanTech panels are not recommended
for exterior siding or other applications that are permanently exposed
to the weather.
John T.

swalker wrote:
Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

My only comment is a question: why are you bothering with sleepers and
sub-floor panels for a shop floor when your existing concrete will work just
fine?

wrote:

I wonder what's wrong with a concrete shop floor ?

My thought too.

And how long 2 coats of poly will really last

Well, I painted mine 20 years ago - not two coats though, just one really
heavy one - and it is still good enough that I wouldn't even think of
repainting.

On 6/19/2016 11:01 PM, swalker wrote:

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim


Typically polyurethane is sanded to keep the surface smooth. Do you
really care about that on a shop floor?


Now if the instructions require this, try one of the following.

Alternatively, "Bona" brand floor mops come with a Velcro like method to
attach flat bottomed mop pads. Perhaps some Velcro backed sand paper
will stick to that mob head.

Or spray some liquid sand paper on the mop and mop away.

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.
Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.
I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.
Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?
Thanks for any comments.
Jim


Typically polyurethane is sanded to keep the surface smooth. Do you
really care about that on a shop floor?
Now if the instructions require this, try one of the following.
Alternatively, "Bona" brand floor mops come with a Velcro like method to
attach flat bottomed mop pads. Perhaps some Velcro backed sand paper
will stick to that mob head.
Or spray some liquid sand paper on the mop and mop away.


..... keeping in mind that all the debris particles from the abrasive
and the poly - that results from whatever method of sanding -
- will need to be thoroughly cleaned off before the second coat...
I'd be liking concrete floor more & more.
John T.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Jtidna915_KddvrKnZ2dnUU7-
:

Typically polyurethane is sanded to keep the surface smooth. Do you
really care about that on a shop floor?

I had always understood that it was sanded to ensure a good
mechanical grip between coats, if enough time had passed
between coats for the first one to cure.

I gather that in recent times there's been some debate about
how long it takes a coat of poly to cure sufficiently that
there is no chemical bond between coats (this time being
signficantly longer than the time it takes for a coat to
harden and feel dry).

John

On 6/20/2016 12:26 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, June 19, 2016 at 11:01:48 PM UTC-5, swalker wrote:


Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

Read the instructions on the can, about recoating. With some polys, you can recoat within a certain time after initial application, without having to sand. After the time limit, it's recommended you sand.

If need be, apply your poly in sections, to remain within the time limit for recoating without having to sand.

Sonny

Always sand, get the dust nibs off.
A pole sander is good, it will knock them off.

--
Jeff

On 6/20/2016 7:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
wrote:

I wonder what's wrong with a concrete shop floor ?

My thought too.

It's very hard on the body. My flat feet, plust aging joints (volleyball
takes it's toll) really would prefer wood over concrete.

And how long 2 coats of poly will really last

Well, I painted mine 20 years ago - not two coats though, just one really
heavy one - and it is still good enough that I wouldn't even think of
repainting.




--
Jeff

On 6/20/2016 7:02 AM, dadiOH wrote:
swalker wrote:
Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

My only comment is a question: why are you bothering with sleepers and
sub-floor panels for a shop floor when your existing concrete will work just
fine?


It adds spring to the flooring. wood on top of concrete is as hard as
concrete.

--
Jeff

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 11:54:36 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 6/20/2016 7:02 AM, dadiOH wrote:
swalker wrote:
Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.

Once installed I want to put on 2 coats of polyurethane.
I have always lightly sanded between poly coats and expect to do so on
the Advantech.
My question is how is the best way to sand a 28X30 floor. A machine
seems out of the question.

I have though about one of those pole sanders that drywall people use
but wonder if someone else has an idea.

Or does someone thing I don't need to sand between coats?

Thanks for any comments.

Jim

My only comment is a question: why are you bothering with sleepers and
sub-floor panels for a shop floor when your existing concrete will work just
fine?


It adds spring to the flooring. wood on top of concrete is as hard as
concrete.

It also gives a space to run power and air to stationary machinery and
free-standing benches. My basement floor dusts quite a bit, too.

On 6/20/2016 10:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Jtidna915_KddvrKnZ2dnUU7-
:

Typically polyurethane is sanded to keep the surface smooth. Do you
really care about that on a shop floor?

I had always understood that it was sanded to ensure a good
mechanical grip between coats, if enough time had passed
between coats for the first one to cure.

I gather that in recent times there's been some debate about
how long it takes a coat of poly to cure sufficiently that
there is no chemical bond between coats (this time being
signficantly longer than the time it takes for a coat to
harden and feel dry).

John



Some require the sanding between coats, some don't.

On 6/20/2016 12:01 AM, swalker wrote:

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.


Why not get a couple of more 71 year olds and you can get it done in
about five days. I have three month to go and I can easily add two days
to any project.

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 12:16:26 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Most of finishing/refinishing is folklore, passed from unwilling paint slingers to clear sealer appliers when the time comes for them to face the music.

It isn't based on anything other than rumor and hearsay, rarely on fact and almost never on hands on experience unless the person telling the story is using the most safe of methods they know to finish.

Mike Marlow and I are both professional finishers, and we have our standard laugh between us that let us know when we had graduated from "hobby" to "professional". We read the instructions on the can. If in doubt, call the 800 number for the product.

I had always understood that it was sanded to ensure a good
mechanical grip between coats, if enough time had passed
between coats for the first one to cure.

There are some finishes that request a sanding between coats, but they are mostly homeowner style products that have a manufacturer hedging his bet that the applicant of their product isn't paying attention to what they are doing. Sanding does help remove nibs if in an unclean environment, but more importantly it removes the plastic layer of the applied finish to expose a less cured surface to ensure better bonding.

Personally, unless I have a sag, drip, a bug that crawls in the finish, or something else mechanical to deal with, I don't ever sand and haven't for about 20 years now. That includes interior/exterior doors (oil and latex), kitchen cabinets (oil clear coats), bath cabinets (oil paints/clear coats) and on an on. I follow the instructions on the can, and if using a new product I call the manufacturer with questions.

I gather that in recent times there's been some debate about
how long it takes a coat of poly to cure sufficiently that
there is no chemical bond between coats (this time being
signficantly longer than the time it takes for a coat to
harden and feel dry).

This varies widely by product. A good rule of thumb when applying finish in moderate weather is to not wait longer than 12 hours for most finishes. Most urethanes call for an 8 hour recoat, but you can stretch it to twelve IF you have moderate weather (not in the late 80s - 90s).

So how can you tell if it is ready to recoat since literally every job is different? This works with oil based paint and with clear coats. Lightly press your thumb on the surface and raise it straight up. If you see your thumbprint, you are a couple of hours away. If you see about 1/4 of a faint print, get your gear out and get ready to go. When you are ready, apply. ( I had an older fellow show me that about 20 years ago and he was spot on.)

Many products don't recommend recoat after 72 hours. Rather, if you pass that mark you need to wait until the product is cured out, which is about 21 days, then sand it down hard to bring up a surface that will yield better traction. Be aware though, that waiting after your 72 hour period will not yield the best results since the poly WILL NOT resolvate with itself. After 72 hours, you will have two separate coats of finish.

Try a product like this:

http://goo.gl/iH44wE

It comes in gloss and satin. Your pick. This actually IS a "professional" grade product. Read the can myself... just kidding... ;^) It is considered "professional because it is a whopping 50% solids (!!!) and it dries for recoat in about 3 - 6 hours (remember your test technique. That is a fast dry poly; it is made for a "pro" to get there on the job in the morning and apply, come back at the end of the day and 2nd coat. No sanding between coats. Wait 48-72 hours and it is ready for light foot traffic. Like all of these coatings, cured strength is 21-30 days before you can mop it with light solvents.

Since you will be putting it on an unfinished surface, I would thin enough product to cover the floor by about 10 - 15% and flood the surface with the product. Let it sit about 4 hours, then put an unthinned coat on, and second coat later, as soon as it is ready. So for me, that would mean flood coat around 1 o'clock, then first coat after that, then another coat first thing in the morning.

If this is at your house or where you have continued access, you could flood coat in the early morning, first coat around noon to one, then wait as late as possible and final coat. A product like that allows you to finish a job in a long day, which for any finisher is a blessing. You will wind up buying more than a five of this as they list coverage at 400sq ft per gallin with a 1 - 1 1/2 mil coat. Not a remote chance that will happen. I personally would figure for //any// of these coatings on a floor surface no more than 250ft a gallon coverage when you apply a coat (not the flood coat, but the finish coats) of about 3 mil. You might want to shop for a similar product, or find that one at a local paint store for immediate purchase should you run short.

Some require the sanding between coats, some don't.

More and more aren't requiring sanding or even mentioning it. The factory rep for Sherwin Williams told me that same thing that I have heard over and over. NO ONE reads the instructions, they just put on finish the way their grandfather did decades ago and call it good.

Robert

wrote:

Try a product like this:

http://goo.gl/iH44wE

It comes in gloss and satin. Your pick. This actually IS a
"professional" grade product. Read the can myself... just kidding...
;^) It is considered "professional because it is a whopping 50%
solids (!!!) and it dries for recoat in about 3 - 6 hours (remember
your test technique.

I'm glad to see you recommend it. I've used it for the last decade or so
but mostly because it is reasonably priced.

Home Depot carries it (in gallon sizes) but they make it hard to
find...usually on the bottom shelf.

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 18:45:39 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 6/20/2016 12:01 AM, swalker wrote:

Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2
71 year olds to do.


Why not get a couple of more 71 year olds and you can get it done in
about five days. I have three month to go and I can easily add two days
to any project.

Based on the first days experience it might take longer than expected.

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 16:02:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 12:16:26 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Most of finishing/refinishing is folklore, passed from unwilling paint slingers to clear sealer appliers when the time comes for them to face the music.

It isn't based on anything other than rumor and hearsay, rarely on fact and almost never on hands on experience unless the person telling the story is using the most safe of methods they know to finish.

Mike Marlow and I are both professional finishers, and we have our standard laugh between us that let us know when we had graduated from "hobby" to "professional". We read the instructions on the can. If in doubt, call the 800 number for the product.

I had always understood that it was sanded to ensure a good
mechanical grip between coats, if enough time had passed
between coats for the first one to cure.

There are some finishes that request a sanding between coats, but they are mostly homeowner style products that have a manufacturer hedging his bet that the applicant of their product isn't paying attention to what they are doing. Sanding does help remove nibs if in an unclean environment, but more importantly it removes the plastic layer of the applied finish to expose a less cured surface to ensure better bonding.

Personally, unless I have a sag, drip, a bug that crawls in the finish, or something else mechanical to deal with, I don't ever sand and haven't for about 20 years now. That includes interior/exterior doors (oil and latex), kitchen cabinets (oil clear coats), bath cabinets (oil paints/clear coats) and on an on. I follow the instructions on the can, and if using a new product I call the manufacturer with questions.

I gather that in recent times there's been some debate about
how long it takes a coat of poly to cure sufficiently that
there is no chemical bond between coats (this time being
signficantly longer than the time it takes for a coat to
harden and feel dry).

This varies widely by product. A good rule of thumb when applying finish in moderate weather is to not wait longer than 12 hours for most finishes. Most urethanes call for an 8 hour recoat, but you can stretch it to twelve IF you have moderate weather (not in the late 80s - 90s).

So how can you tell if it is ready to recoat since literally every job is different? This works with oil based paint and with clear coats. Lightly press your thumb on the surface and raise it straight up. If you see your thumbprint, you are a couple of hours away. If you see about 1/4 of a faint print, get your gear out and get ready to go. When you are ready, apply. ( I had an older fellow show me that about 20 years ago and he was spot on.)

Many products don't recommend recoat after 72 hours. Rather, if you pass that mark you need to wait until the product is cured out, which is about 21 days, then sand it down hard to bring up a surface that will yield better traction. Be aware though, that waiting after your 72 hour period will not yield the best results since the poly WILL NOT resolvate with itself. After 72 hours, you will have two separate coats of finish.

Try a product like this:

http://goo.gl/iH44wE

It comes in gloss and satin. Your pick. This actually IS a "professional" grade product. Read the can myself... just kidding... ;^) It is considered "professional because it is a whopping 50% solids (!!!) and it dries for recoat in about 3 - 6 hours (remember your test technique. That is a fast dry poly; it is made for a "pro" to get there on the job in the morning and apply, come back at the end of the day and 2nd coat. No sanding between coats. Wait 48-72 hours and it is ready for light foot traffic. Like all of these coatings, cured strength is 21-30 days before you can mop it with light solvents.

Since you will be putting it on an unfinished surface, I would thin enough product to cover the floor by about 10 - 15% and flood the surface with the product. Let it sit about 4 hours, then put an unthinned coat on, and second coat later, as soon as it is ready. So for me, that would mean flood coat around 1 o'clock, then first coat after that, then another coat first thing in the morning.

If this is at your house or where you have continued access, you could flood coat in the early morning, first coat around noon to one, then wait as late as possible and final coat. A product like that allows you to finish a job in a long day, which for any finisher is a blessing. You will wind up buying more than a five of this as they list coverage at 400sq ft per gallin with a 1 - 1 1/2 mil coat. Not a remote chance that will happen. I personally would figure for //any// of these coatings on a floor surface no more than 250ft a gallon coverage when you apply a coat (not the flood coat, but the finish coats) of about 3 mil. You might want to shop for a similar product, or find that one at a local paint store for immediate purchase should you run short.

Some require the sanding between coats, some don't.

More and more aren't requiring sanding or even mentioning it. The factory rep for Sherwin Williams told me that same thing that I have heard over and over. NO ONE reads the instructions, they just put on finish the way their grandfather did decades ago and call it good.

Robert

Thanks for the information.

Reading the use instructions I noticed that the total cure time is 14
days.

My equipment has been in storage for a year and has to come out on
6/28 so I might have a problem with the finish when moving saws and a
500 lb lathe into the shop.

I might have to explore another option. Maybe doing nothing to the
floor.

Thanks for the reply.

On Sun, 19 Jun 2016 23:01:27 -0500
swalker wrote:


Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2

what are you doing about the gaps at the edges


i would not bother sanding between coats but i would get some high
traffic poly

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 6:38:02 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

I'm glad to see you recommend it. I've used it for the last decade or so
but mostly because it is reasonably priced.

The endorsement of someone using the product for a decade carries more weight than someone like me that used it once or twice. I have recommended it to others and they liked it as well. Thanks for the info, real experience is hard find these days.

I wouldn't leave a shop floor unfinished. Once you get the equipment in and placed, it will be almost impossible to get the shop equipment moved around in a fashion that will you to put some finish on the floor. And with a shop full of "shop stuff" that is dusty and dirty, foot traffic that grinds in the dust and dirt from outside and inside to the flooring, you will never have the opportunity to work a surface that pristine again to get maximum adhesion. Not mention how much easier a finished floor is to clean and maintain.

Just a thought...

Robert

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 8:54:44 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:
On 6/20/2016 7:02 AM, dadiOH wrote:

My only comment is a question: why are you bothering with sleepers and
sub-floor panels for a shop floor when your existing concrete will work just
fine?

It adds spring to the flooring. wood on top of concrete is as hard as
concrete.

There's never just wood over concrete, it'd be a moisture nightmare in addition to
a foot killer. You raise a wood floor an inch or so above the concrete with
furring strips (if that's not the wrong name). There are also interlocking
panel waffle-tiles to keep your foottsies above the concrete, at a price.

http://homerenovations.about.com/od/floors/tp/BasementSubfloorTiles.htm

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 6:38:02 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
nailshooter41 wrote:

Try a product like this:

http://goo.gl/iH44wE



I'm glad to see you recommend it. I've used it for the last decade or so
but mostly because it is reasonably priced.


I'll have to try it. Lots cheaper than Varethane Floor finish ($50/gal), which I've mostly used for "utility" projects, the past 10-15 yrs. I may not have the patience for the oil (dust collecting before drying to touch), but it does state it's fast drying, so I'll see.

One thing to consider about a finished wood shop floor. My shop is a repurposed rent house, with 2" wide oak flooring in some areas. The old finish is in fairly good shape. When sawdust collects, even a light dusting, it's slippery. Finished Advantech may not be as smooth (as slippery) a surface..

Sonny

On 6/20/2016 9:02 PM, swalker wrote:

I might have to explore another option. Maybe doing nothing to the
floor.

Nothing, would be my finish of choice for a shop floor using AdvanTech.

IME, you'll regret it in short order in that application.

Part of the charm of the wood shops of yore was a floor finished with
nothing but sweeping compound to hold the dust down.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 21:01:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2016 23:01:27 -0500
swalker wrote:


Based on previous comments I will be installing Advantech on 2X4 PT
sleepers over concrete tomorrow. I expect it to take 2 or 3 days for 2

what are you doing about the gaps at the edges


i would not bother sanding between coats but i would get some high
traffic poly


Probably not worry about the sawdust in them. Maybe vacuum them
occasionally..

On Tue, 21 Jun 2016 08:05:54 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 6/20/2016 9:02 PM, swalker wrote:

I might have to explore another option. Maybe doing nothing to the
floor.

Nothing, would be my finish of choice for a shop floor using AdvanTech.

IME, you'll regret it in short order in that application.

Part of the charm of the wood shops of yore was a floor finished with
nothing but sweeping compound to hold the dust down.

Swingman,

This has me confused...

Nothing, would be my finish of choice for a shop floor using AdvanTech.

IME, you'll regret it in short order in that application.

Sounds like your first choice would ge regreted.

??

On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 8:53:13 PM UTC-5, swalker wrote:

Swingman,

This has me confused...

Nothing, would be my finish of choice for a shop floor using AdvanTech.

IME, you'll regret it in short order in that application.

Sounds like your first choice would ge regreted.

??

Regret applying a finish, is what I understand.

Another option: I mentioned my oak flooring is slippery, when sawdust collects. I put a (paper-backed, cheap) roll rug around one table saw. A roll rug may be cheaper than finishing or painting.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

Sonny

On 6/21/2016 8:52 PM, swalker wrote:

Sounds like your first choice would ge regreted.

Sorry for the confusion.

What is my finish of choice for a shop floor of Advantech?

Nothing

You will likely regret doing anything else to it ...


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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/22/2016 7:22 AM, Sonny wrote:

Regret applying a finish, is what I understand.

LOL ... takes a coonie cousin to understand one.

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 21 Jun 2016 09:45:17 -0500
swalker wrote:

Probably not worry about the sawdust in them. Maybe vacuum them
occasionally..

if your equipment is not moved around much it probably will not matter

maybe when they fill up with sawdust add some titebond or hf acrylic