saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used

i like used for lots of situations

if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding
i reach for the used

have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need
less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80

Electric Comet wrote in news:neruqn$op7$2
@dont-email.me:


saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used

i like used for lots of situations

if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding
i reach for the used

have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need
less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80


Use it until you feel it isn't working effectively any longer than then
change to new paper. Be more aggressive about changing paper, as most
people tend to use the paper too long. Just because dust is still coming
off the workpiece, doesn't mean your sandpaper is still good.

Puckdropper

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 6:55:15 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used

i like used for lots of situations

if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding
i reach for the used

have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need
less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80

I'm with Puckdropper

Puckdropper wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news:neruqn$op7$2
@dont-email.me:

saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used


I keep it in a shoe box so it is as convenient as loose change.
Sometimes I write the grit# on the back. There are quite a few other
items in the shoe box too... I think the value of organization is
underestimated--I'm working on that... This shoe box is one of my
successes... ; )

Electric Comet wrote in news:neruqn$op7$2
@dont-email.me:


saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used

i like used for lots of situations

if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding
i reach for the used

have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need
less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80

This is one of those "it depends" situations.

You want to change paper when it no longer cuts well.
Generally this happens sooner on the coarser grits;
if you're using 1600 grit paper to polish metal it
will last a long time.

Sometimes worn sandpaper gives you better control when
you don't want to sand too aggressively. I used to
keep used belt-sander belts to use when sanding on the
lathe, because they were easier to hold than paper.
(the lathe, unfortunately, has seen no use in lo these
many years).

Beware of "polishing" rather than smoothing the surface,
which happens if the paper is too worn.

John

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 01:20:14 -0400
Bill wrote:

I keep it in a shoe box so it is as convenient as loose change.
Sometimes I write the grit# on the back. There are quite a few other

i made a square crate from a bunch of thin scraps i had this way the
dust falls thru

like the idea of writing the grit on the back

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 7:55:15 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it

i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used

i like used for lots of situations

if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding
i reach for the used

have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need
less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80

When my family was involved in Soap Box Derby, we did a lot of fiberglass
and bondo work. I used to do lot of building with a guy who was a master
at body work.

He hung onto sandpaper for a long time. When his 100 no longer worked as
100, it became his 150, then his 220, etc. Since we often raced "in primer"
things didn't need to be perfect until just before the final paint job.
That's when the new sandpaper came out and he got really meticulous.

Definition:

"In primer" meant we were still modifying the cars throughout the season
as we worked our way towards the big end-of-season races. Any new fiberglass
or bondo would get covered with primer before the next race. Sometimes we'd
prime a section with a slightly different color primer even if we'd done
nothing to the body since the last race. It kept the competition guessing.
When you win a lot, people watch your every move. We liked to keep them off
guard. ;-)

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 21:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote:

He hung onto sandpaper for a long time. When his 100 no longer worked
as 100, it became his 150, then his 220, etc. Since we often raced
"in primer" things didn't need to be perfect until just before the
final paint job. That's when the new sandpaper came out and he got
really meticulous.

makes sense to use until it has nothing left on it

i have some of those sticks of buffing compound i break out when
i need the mirror finish but that is only for bowls or spindles

Electric Comet wrote in news:nev271$q1d$2
@dont-email.me:

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 21:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote:

He hung onto sandpaper for a long time. When his 100 no longer worked
as 100, it became his 150, then his 220, etc. Since we often raced
"in primer" things didn't need to be perfect until just before the
final paint job. That's when the new sandpaper came out and he got
really meticulous.

makes sense to use until it has nothing left on it

Not really. To cut the grains of sand have to have sharp
edges. A worn piece of sandpaper doesn't have finer grits
than it started with, it just has dull, rounded over sand.

Now fiberglass and bondo are fairly soft and uniform, so
rounded over sandpaper may have worked after a fashion,
but in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

On 4/16/2016 11:09 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 21:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote:

He hung onto sandpaper for a long time. When his 100 no longer worked
as 100, it became his 150, then his 220, etc. Since we often raced
"in primer" things didn't need to be perfect until just before the
final paint job. That's when the new sandpaper came out and he got
really meticulous.

makes sense to use until it has nothing left on it

Actually not. Sand paper that is worn out and and cutting slower like a
higher number grit does not cut as fast a new higher grit paper.

If the paper does not feel sharp you are pretty much wasting time. And
yes even 220 grit paper feels sharp when it is not worn out.

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.

On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 19:01:20 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.

Interesting. How so?

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 19:01:20 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.
A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.
Interesting. How so?
Put a couple of pieces on the back, and try to tear it. Your mileage may
vary with your tape...

On 4/17/2016 9:15 PM, Bill wrote:

But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.
A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big
difference.
Interesting. How so?
Put a couple of pieces on the back, and try to tear it. Your mileage may
vary with your tape...


Better is 2" packing tape if you have it.

On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 21:15:56 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 19:01:20 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.
A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.
Interesting. How so?
Put a couple of pieces on the back, and try to tear it. Your mileage may
vary with your tape...

Interesting idea but what to the hooks hook into?

On 4/17/2016 9:01 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 21:15:56 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 19:01:20 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building
it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.

Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will
last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.
A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.
Interesting. How so?
Put a couple of pieces on the back, and try to tear it. Your mileage may
vary with your tape...

Interesting idea but what to the hooks hook into?

He is yanking your chain. ;~)

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 06:45:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

The issue was Festool Granat paper. The backing is different from
grit to grit but it doesn't come any other way within each grit.

krw wrote:
On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 06:45:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

The issue was Festool Granat paper. The backing is different from
grit to grit but it doesn't come any other way within each grit.


I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 12:16:49 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

Next kitchen refinish I have I will be buying the Granat. My biggest problem is the "pilling" of the old finishes on the paper causing them to be held above the cutting surface. A very common problem in refinishing.

I know there are a lot of spendthrifts out there, but as far as wood work and refinishing go (not addressing the fiberglass issue) using sandpaper until it is worn out is a false economy.

The most astute observation on actual use of worn paper in my opinion was noticed above by John McCoy when he said " Beware of "polishing" rather than smoothing the surface,which happens if the paper is too worn."

You would really notice the difference if you did a lot of staining, dyeing and tinting of softer woods. Cutting paper gives a uniform surface and a "rubbed" surface will really screw up a good coloring job, especially around burly areas. Years ago one of the guys on Woodworking Web (in the finishing/refinishing section) made it a point to take a look at the surface difference between good sandpapers and then another look at the end results of using worn sandpaper. The results were the same under magnification. Both cheap paper and worn paper resulted in a "hairy" surface where the fibers were not cut away. Tested with a light coat of stain, the side by side difference was very obvious.

I like Ed's comment, too. "After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper." Been my mantra for years as it only makes perfect sense.


Robert

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 12:16:44 -0500, Leon wrote:

krw wrote:
On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 06:45:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

The issue was Festool Granat paper. The backing is different from
grit to grit but it doesn't come any other way within each grit.


I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

The grit lasts quite well it's just that when the sander hangs over
the edge of the piece, the paper shreds from the edge. It doesn't
happen immediately but it shortens the paper life considerably (the
grit lasts much longer than the backing).

wrote:
On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 12:16:49 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

Next kitchen refinish I have I will be buying the Granat. My biggest
problem is the "pilling" of the old finishes on the paper causing them to
be held above the cutting surface. A very common problem in refinishing.



I'll send you a piece. :-). I don't get pilling at all on cured oil
finishes. I removed an oil stained and oil varnished top a day after
applying the last coat. And that piece of paper did a lot more sanding
than that.

krw wrote:
On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 12:16:44 -0500, Leon wrote:

krw wrote:
On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 06:45:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

The issue was Festool Granat paper. The backing is different from
grit to grit but it doesn't come any other way within each grit.


I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

The grit lasts quite well it's just that when the sander hangs over
the edge of the piece, the paper shreds from the edge. It doesn't
happen immediately but it shortens the paper life considerably (the
grit lasts much longer than the backing).


I'm not sure why that is happening. I bought a 10 pack 5", for my Rotex,
some time last year. I have used 4 pieces on 12 different cabinets. And I
sanded front and back FF's on both sides and the doors on both sides. And
I did not worry much about glue squeeze out on the joints. That is more
than 240 joints in stock less than 3" wide. I don't doubt you are
having issues but I'm not seeing a problem. Maybe the stiffness of your
pad.

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:20:35 -0500, Leon wrote:

krw wrote:
On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 12:16:44 -0500, Leon wrote:

krw wrote:
On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 06:45:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 09:41:51 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/17/2016 8:24 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/17/2016 9:07 AM, John McCoy wrote:

in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper
after it stops cutting easily.

John

After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time
building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.


Exactly

Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in
time.


But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper
will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last
as long
as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.

As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I
had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.

Get it in a heavier weight paper?

The issue was Festool Granat paper. The backing is different from
grit to grit but it doesn't come any other way within each grit.


I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.

The grit lasts quite well it's just that when the sander hangs over
the edge of the piece, the paper shreds from the edge. It doesn't
happen immediately but it shortens the paper life considerably (the
grit lasts much longer than the backing).


I'm not sure why that is happening. I bought a 10 pack 5", for my Rotex,
some time last year. I have used 4 pieces on 12 different cabinets. And I
sanded front and back FF's on both sides and the doors on both sides. And
I did not worry much about glue squeeze out on the joints. That is more
than 240 joints in stock less than 3" wide. I don't doubt you are
having issues but I'm not seeing a problem. Maybe the stiffness of your
pad.

I was sanding about 40' of 2-1/2" x 3/4" ash boards, with inside
corners along the 40', with 4" sanders. The RO125 really rips the
stuff up but my ETS125 wasn't immune. I probably went through a half
dozen sheets, some edges ripped almost immediately. It could have
been a pad issue. I only have the default pads (medium, IIRC).

On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 8:10:31 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I'll send you a piece. :-). I don't get pilling at all on cured oil
finishes. I removed an oil stained and oil varnished top a day after
applying the last coat. And that piece of paper did a lot more sanding
than that.

No kidding, Leon. That is remarkable. For someone that sands a fair amount of finishes, the time to replace alone would make it pay the small amount extra it costs (over Mirka) back in no time.

Robert