I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb

On 4/15/2016 12:23 PM, notbob wrote:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb



Grab some scrap of the thickness you expect to use.
Cut practice joints using your current tools.
Decide if a bigger/smaller chisel would help.
Shop, or not.
Practice some more.
Practice some more.
Practice some more.
Practice some more.
Practice some more.

notbob wrote:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

That rather depends upon the widths of the areas you will be chopping out
and that depends upon how wide and deep the dovetails are and how you lay
them out. Certainly, you don't want one that is wider but the closer you
can get to exact, the less chopping you have to do.

BTW, since this stuff is new to you, check out sliding dovetails sometime.
They are very easy to make on a router table, they are strong and handy when
the two pieces aren't flush; ie, for example, when a drawer front overlaps
and protrudes beyond the side.

notbob writes:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

I assume you mean "Stanley Sweetheart", not "B&D Sweetheart".

If you've a regular flea market in your area, I'd encourage you to
check there first - look for Marples or Buck Brothers chisels from
the first half of the 20th century - they'll be fine steel and will
be much less expensive than the USD40 new Stanley's.

If you find a handleless socketed chisel, turning a handle is pretty straightforward
and a good way to use up that pretty piece of firewood.

On 2016-04-15, Scott Lurndal wrote:

I assume you mean "Stanley Sweetheart", not "B&D Sweetheart".

DOH!

I jes found some new B&D drills/driverbits ina plastic case (my mom
usta buy a lotta cheap tools). Like she usta, I musta suffered a
senior moment. I better hurry up!

nb

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb

I don't know if you consider it "cheating," but I saw David Barron use one of these magnetic dovetail guides in a video and I made one out of oak. It works really well for me.

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1458

Mike

On 15 Apr 2016 16:23:29 GMT, notbob wrote:

I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb

First I would learn to speak English instead of gibberish.

notbob wrote in news:dncis1F4ie7U3
@mid.individual.net:

I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb

That 1/8" chisel is awful fine, and won't take the push that the 1/2"
will. OTOH, that 1/2" chisel is awful wide, and won't fit into spaces
the 1/8" will. It's green beans and carrots. Both good food items, but
hardly interchangeable.

Larry Kraus has good advice in this matter: See if your current tools
work, then buy new ones.

Puckdropper

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 13:04:20 -0400
Larry Kraus wrote:

Decide if a bigger/smaller chisel would help.

good advice

always best to learn by doing

Practice some more.

usually never hurts

watch a few videos by that welsh fellow Paul

On 2016-04-15, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:

Larry Kraus has good advice in this matter: See if your current tools
work, then buy new ones.

I like it.

nb

notbob wrote in :

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

Well, I'll throw you a curveball. If you're going to do
dovetails, you may find a skew chisel helpful (*).

However, of the two you mention, you'll find a 1/2" chisel
more generally useful than a 1/8", which would pretty much
only be used for cleaning up dovetails. You can certainly
make serviceable dovetails without a 1/8" (I don't have a
1/8" chisel, and I can make dovetails, altho they're not by
any means something to show off).

For convenience sake, I'd also suggest getting a dovetail
template. You can mark them out with just a ruler and square,
but the template saves a lot of effort.

(* this is not the same thing as a woodturner's skew, it's a
bench chisel. Lie-Nielsen used to make a pair, beautful like
all L-N tools, but I don't know if they still do. Lee Valley
offers a rather ugly pair, at half what the L-N used to cost)

John

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:

I suggest you make your own mallet.. make several and several sized ones, for different jobs. Make them with differnt woods... hard, medium-hard and soft wood mallets. Historically, hickory root stock is best for mallets.

You want to use a softer (wood) mallet, than what your chisel handle is made of, hence the reason for different woods for several mallets. You want your (more disposable) mallet to break or disfigure, rather than your chisel handle.

You DON'T want to use a mallet on your paring chisels. Their sharpness should be maintained to the degree for use with hand-held force, ONLY. Essentially, a paring chisel is for CARVING straight cuts. When you can, get 4 sizes. You can use only 1/8" of your 3/4" chisel, to cut 1/8". You don't have to use the whole width of the blade to make a cut. I most often use 1/4" and 3/8". I often use the 1" to (vertically) score a cut line, prior to sawing or further chiseling with a more narrow chisel. Again, no mallet use on your paring chisels.

As John McCoy, I don't have a 1/8" paring chisel. If I have to cut something that small, I'd use a carving chisel.

You want a chisel for hammering on, get a firmer chisel, a mortise chisel or a set of "disposable" chisels, like the cheaper sets at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. If you have some time, search the garage sales for some old, better metal chisels, than what is available today. I'm always on the lookout for those older chisels.... *And rusty doesn't always mean olde, olde-timey.

For your paring chisels, buy what you can afford. If you have big dollars, look for Marples, Ward and/or Sheffield, preferably original hand-made Sheffield. Don't be fooled by chisels "Made in Sheffield" (the town). You want the chisels made by Sheffield (the man).... they are marked appropriately with Sheffield's mark and the handles are of a particular (recognizable) design/turning. If you shop Ebay, look closely at the pics, to make sure of what you are getting. Ask for more close-up pics, if need be. If the seller is reluctant to provide more pics or info, steer away from them. Possibly, your best bet for genuine Sheffield is from the UK, and that may not be such an over priced buy, though they are more expensive than most others.

One last bit of advice: Maybe keep your paring chisels separate from others. Make some leather sleeves (fingers from old leather gloves?) for the blades, to protect the edges. You could make a "jacket" that rolls up, like many folks do for/with their sets of carving chisels. I think Mary May used old blue jeans fabric, to make her carving chisels jacket/tote. Roy Underhill has a similar one, for his.

Sonny

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb


I assume you have your paring chisel set to 15degrees, and honed on a strop - it really does make a difference.

Then, if you are going to cut dovetails, make one of these first (and view a few of his videos)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I45mEWAJv4

On the finger joints, the best jig I have used is the one by Stumpy Nubs. Well worth the making, IF you are going to be doing finger joints.

http://www.stumpynubs.com/improved-box-joint-jig.html

Slicker than nasal mucus on a copper and zinc door opening device - and a lot less messy.

Deb

Sonny wrote:
I think Mary May used old blue jeans fabric, to make her carving chisels jacket/tote. Roy Underhill has a similar one, for his.

Sonny

Inspired by seeing Mary's May's tool roll on Roy Underhill's show, Bill
made one too, with a custom number of "pockets" of 3 sizes (to fit the
handles I had). Caution: Should you have occasion to sew through 5
layers of denim, do it by hand with a thimble --not an inexpensive
sewing machine (DAMHIKT!).

Someone in more of a hurry could cut the "fingers" off of inexpensive
hide gloves from Harbor Freight--add rubber bands to taste. I use these
"fingers" on my knife-wielding hand (one finger and thumb) when
woodcarving with a knife, and wear a glove on the other hand.

Bill

Bill wrote in
:
Inspired by seeing Mary's May's tool roll on Roy Underhill's show,
Bill made one too, with a custom number of "pockets" of 3 sizes (to
fit the handles I had). Caution: Should you have occasion to sew
through 5 layers of denim, do it by hand with a thimble --not an
inexpensive sewing machine (DAMHIKT!).

Someone in more of a hurry could cut the "fingers" off of inexpensive
hide gloves from Harbor Freight--add rubber bands to taste. I use
these "fingers" on my knife-wielding hand (one finger and thumb) when
woodcarving with a knife, and wear a glove on the other hand.

Bill


Would just an ordinary commercially available tool roll work? I picked up
one at Menards when they were giving away a free bag with purchase of the
tool roll. (Or was it the other way around?)

Puckdropper

Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:
Inspired by seeing Mary's May's tool roll on Roy Underhill's show,
Bill made one too, with a custom number of "pockets" of 3 sizes (to
fit the handles I had). Caution: Should you have occasion to sew
through 5 layers of denim, do it by hand with a thimble --not an
inexpensive sewing machine (DAMHIKT!).

Someone in more of a hurry could cut the "fingers" off of inexpensive
hide gloves from Harbor Freight--add rubber bands to taste. I use
these "fingers" on my knife-wielding hand (one finger and thumb) when
woodcarving with a knife, and wear a glove on the other hand.

Bill

Would just an ordinary commercially available tool roll work?
Would it WORK, you ask??? Ahh! ::: raising hands in disbelief ::::
What about the custom sized pockets? ::: SWEAT dripping from forehead
::: ... the PRIDE of saying you wore these jeans in 1995, but have
"recycled" them! Ahh! WHERE did I go wrong??? : ) Seriously, no tool
roll is as good as one you've made from your own jeans (it impresses
people who don't care about wood too, though that wasn't the goal). My
wife has asked me to show it to people (if you might imagine that...).

BTW, I picked up a set of 3 Marples chisels from Menards for about $17 a
few weeks ago, that came in their own tool roll. I already have paring
chisels, these are designed to be hit with a mallet. After I get the
yard work out of the way, and then get the lawnmower self-propelling
again, I hope to try them out!

Ah!
Bill


I picked up
one at Menards when they were giving away a free bag with purchase of the
tool roll. (Or was it the other way around?)

Puckdropper

notbob wrote:

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb

Robby and I roll with 1/4" & 1/2" only.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxIgNel0H_I


Frank don't need no stinking chisel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFqY73lelq8

In article ,
says...

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:

I suggest you make your own mallet.. make several and several sized ones, for different jobs. Make them with differnt woods... hard, medium-hard and soft wood mallets. Historically, hickory root stock is best for mallets.

You want to use a softer (wood) mallet, than what your chisel handle is made of, hence the reason for different woods for several mallets. You want your (more disposable) mallet to break or disfigure, rather than your chisel handle.

You DON'T want to use a mallet on your paring chisels. Their sharpness should be maintained to the degree for use with hand-held force, ONLY. Essentially, a paring chisel is for CARVING straight cuts. When you can, get 4 sizes. You can use only 1/8" of your 3/4" chisel, to cut 1/8". You don't have to use the whole width of the blade to make a cut. I most often use 1/4" and 3/8". I often use the 1" to (vertically) score a cut line, prior to sawing or further
chiseling with a more narrow chisel. Again, no mallet use on your paring chisels.

As John McCoy, I don't have a 1/8" paring chisel. If I have to cut something that small, I'd use a carving chisel.

You want a chisel for hammering on, get a firmer chisel, a mortise chisel or a set of "disposable" chisels, like the cheaper sets at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. If you have some time, search the garage sales for some old, better metal chisels, than what is available today. I'm always on the lookout for those older chisels.... *And rusty doesn't always mean olde, olde-timey.

For your paring chisels, buy what you can afford. If you have big dollars, look for Marples, Ward and/or Sheffield, preferably original hand-made Sheffield. Don't be fooled by chisels "Made in Sheffield" (the town). You want the chisels made by Sheffield (the man).... they are marked appropriately with Sheffield's mark and the handles are of a particular (recognizable) design/turning. If you shop Ebay, look closely at the pics, to make sure of what you are getting.
Ask for more close-up pics, if need be. If the seller is reluctant to provide more pics or info, steer away from them. Possibly, your best bet for genuine Sheffield is from the UK, and that may not be such an over priced buy, though they are more expensive than most others.

Or if you're willing to spend serious bucks, you could go for folded-
steel Japanese.

One last bit of advice: Maybe keep your paring chisels separate from others. Make some leather sleeves (fingers from old leather gloves?) for the blades, to protect the edges. You could make a "jacket" that rolls up, like many folks do for/with their sets of carving chisels. I think Mary May used old blue jeans fabric, to make her carving chisels jacket/tote. Roy Underhill has a similar one, for his.

Sonny

In article . com,
Puckdropper says...

Bill wrote in
:
Inspired by seeing Mary's May's tool roll on Roy Underhill's show,
Bill made one too, with a custom number of "pockets" of 3 sizes (to
fit the handles I had). Caution: Should you have occasion to sew
through 5 layers of denim, do it by hand with a thimble --not an
inexpensive sewing machine (DAMHIKT!).

There's an inexpensive tool called a "sailmaker's palm"--lets you get
some real force on the needle.

Someone in more of a hurry could cut the "fingers" off of inexpensive
hide gloves from Harbor Freight--add rubber bands to taste. I use
these "fingers" on my knife-wielding hand (one finger and thumb) when
woodcarving with a knife, and wear a glove on the other hand.

Bill


Would just an ordinary commercially available tool roll work? I picked up
one at Menards when they were giving away a free bag with purchase of the
tool roll. (Or was it the other way around?)

Puckdropper

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:31:26 PM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I WILL learn how!

Initially, I'm doing it to repair my late mothers kitchen cabinets.
Later, I hope to make a dovetailed guitar amplifier encloser (ala
MesaBoogie amps) after I become much more experienced. To that end,
I'm buying another paring chisel and wooden mallet and a Japanese pull
saw.

I'll prolly do the finger joints ona table saw, w/ dado set, but will
try and learn how to hand saw dovetail joints using a dozuki saw.

So, my question is, what size paring chisel should I buy next. I was
gonna go fer a B&D Sweetheart 1/2" paring chisel, but now wonder if I
shouldn't get a 1/8" paring chisel, instead. I already have a 1/4"
paring chisel. Remember, this is fer hand cut dovetails, mostly.

nb


I assume you have your paring chisel set to 15degrees, and honed on a strop - it really does make a difference.

Then, if you are going to cut dovetails, make one of these first (and view a few of his videos)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I45mEWAJv4

On the finger joints, the best jig I have used is the one by Stumpy Nubs. Well worth the making, IF you are going to be doing finger joints.

http://www.stumpynubs.com/improved-box-joint-jig.html

Slicker than nasal mucus on a copper and zinc door opening device - and a lot less messy.

Deb

I made one of the alignment boards (using handcut dovetails). It really makes accurate scoring with the knife faster and more accurate.

Mike

Sonny wrote in
:

For your paring chisels, buy what you can afford. If you have big
dollars, look for Marples, Ward and/or Sheffield, preferably original
hand-made Sheffield. Don't be fooled by chisels "Made in Sheffield"
(the town). You want the chisels made by Sheffield (the man).... they
are marked appropriately with Sheffield's mark and the handles are of
a particular (recognizable) design/turning. If you shop Ebay, look
closely at the pics, to make sure of what you are getting. Ask for
more close-up pics, if need be. If the seller is reluctant to provide
more pics or info, steer away from them. Possibly, your best bet for
genuine Sheffield is from the UK, and that may not be such an over
priced buy, though they are more expensive than most others.

OK, I see confusion coming here. As far as I know, there is
no "Sheffield (the man)". Sheffield is a city in England where
the crucible steel process was invented, which produces a steel
particularly well suited for tools, knives, and similar things.
Up until the early 1900's Sheffield steel was the best for those
things, and a Sheffield makers mark was an indication of the
quality. The word "Sheffield" should be taken as more of an
indication of the material used than the place of manufacture.

Note that "Made in Sheffield" is not a makers mark. A makers
mark would (typically) have the name of the maker, or, for the
better known makers their logo, and the word "Sheffield" -
no "Made in". It may also say "Made in England", altho most
don't. If it's a tool it's likely to say "Cast Steel" somewhere
(cutlery often says "Stainless", silver and plate usually have
proof marks).

There is a modern brand called "Sheffield". I have no idea
where or by who they are made. They are Home Depot level of
cost and quality.

John

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 9:06:13 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:

OK, I see confusion coming here. As far as I know, there is
no "Sheffield (the man)". Sheffield is a city in England where
the crucible steel process was invented, which produces a steel
particularly well suited for tools, knives, and similar things.
Up until the early 1900's Sheffield steel was the best for those
things, and a Sheffield makers mark was an indication of the
quality. The word "Sheffield" should be taken as more of an
indication of the material used than the place of manufacture.

I stand corrected, somewhat. The UK individuals and chisels of note are J.B. Addis & Sons, Henry Taylor, and Robert Sorby.

Here's a good article: http://www.collectorsweekly.com/tool...rdware/chisels

If I'm not mistaken, Ward, Payne, Sheffield bought out J.B. Addis & Sons (and the Addis reputation for excellent chisels), though the subsequent WPS chisels were not, didn't maintain, the quality of Addis. Here's my set of WPS (micro) chisels: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?

Sonny

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 10:07:45 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

I stand corrected, somewhat.

That should read "I stand corrected".

If I'm not mistaken, Ward, Payne, Sheffield bought out J.B. Addis & Sons (and the Addis reputation for excellent chisels), though the subsequent WPS chisels were not, didn't maintain, the quality of Addis. Here's my set of WPS (micro) chisels: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?


That should read "If I'm not mistaken, Ward & Payne, (in) Sheffield ...." .

Sonny

Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:
Inspired by seeing Mary's May's tool roll on Roy Underhill's show,
Bill made one too, with a custom number of "pockets" of 3 sizes (to
fit the handles I had). Caution: Should you have occasion to sew
through 5 layers of denim, do it by hand with a thimble --not an
inexpensive sewing machine (DAMHIKT!).

Someone in more of a hurry could cut the "fingers" off of inexpensive
hide gloves from Harbor Freight--add rubber bands to taste. I use
these "fingers" on my knife-wielding hand (one finger and thumb) when
woodcarving with a knife, and wear a glove on the other hand.

Bill

Would just an ordinary commercially available tool roll work?
Would it WORK, you ask??? Ahh! ::: raising hands in disbelief
:::: snip

If anyone tries the project, IIRC, it requires 3 legs worth of jeans! ; )
Use the inseem of one leg as you centerline.... learn a bit about sewing...
A chalkline marker is helpful.