Question that I feel sure was asked before. I have a 36-979 10" left tilt table saw that I bought in March 2013. Has any one (or is there an accessory) found a way to close the rear off around the motor and belt. to reduce sawdust from blowing out. I do have a dust collector (4" hose) hooked to the bottom of the saw.

On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:01:52 -0800 (PST), Tom
wrote:

Question that I feel sure was asked before. I have a 36-979 10" left tilt table saw that I bought in March 2013. Has any one (or is there an accessory) found a way to close the rear off around the motor and belt. to reduce sawdust from blowing out. I do have a dust collector (4" hose) hooked to the bottom of the saw.

Tom, do you have shut off valves to your other pieces of equipment so
that you saw can get maximum draw when running?

I think the back of your saw is a lot like the old craftsmen
contractors saw. Just cutting a piece of sheet metal or thin plywood
to attach to the frame opening, minus the space that the belt takes up
with you crank the saw to a full 45 degree angle, should do it for
you. It will sure stop what the blade inherently throws out through
the opening. And with the saw getting the full effect of your dust
extractor I wouldn't be surprised if it took full care of your
problem. You need some fresh air coming into your sawdust collection
area, to keep full flow and carry everything away, back to your
collectors, and the space needed for your belt to operate should
really help that and not be a detriment.

On Wednesday, January 20, 2016 at 2:59:19 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:01:52 -0800 (PST), Tom
wrote:

Question that I feel sure was asked before. I have a 36-979 10" left tilt table saw that I bought in March 2013. Has any one (or is there an accessory) found a way to close the rear off around the motor and belt. to reduce sawdust from blowing out. I do have a dust collector (4" hose) hooked to the bottom of the saw.

Tom, do you have shut off valves to your other pieces of equipment so
that you saw can get maximum draw when running?

I think the back of your saw is a lot like the old craftsmen
contractors saw. Just cutting a piece of sheet metal or thin plywood
to attach to the frame opening, minus the space that the belt takes up
with you crank the saw to a full 45 degree angle, should do it for
you. It will sure stop what the blade inherently throws out through
the opening. And with the saw getting the full effect of your dust
extractor I wouldn't be surprised if it took full care of your
problem. You need some fresh air coming into your sawdust collection
area, to keep full flow and carry everything away, back to your
collectors, and the space needed for your belt to operate should
really help that and not be a detriment.

Yes I do, I have gate valves on everything. I was thinking something on the back, but its the 45 degree tilt that was giving me a fit. However I agree with you that I don't want to close it off completely. I hadn't even given that a thought. I think this problem gust got a little easer. Thank You for your input.

Tom

On 1/20/2016 4:08 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 20, 2016 at 2:59:19 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:01:52 -0800 (PST), Tom
wrote:

Question that I feel sure was asked before. I have a 36-979 10" left tilt table saw that I bought in March 2013. Has any one (or is there an accessory) found a way to close the rear off around the motor and belt. to reduce sawdust from blowing out. I do have a dust collector (4" hose) hooked to the bottom of the saw.

Tom, do you have shut off valves to your other pieces of equipment so
that you saw can get maximum draw when running?

I think the back of your saw is a lot like the old craftsmen
contractors saw. Just cutting a piece of sheet metal or thin plywood
to attach to the frame opening, minus the space that the belt takes up
with you crank the saw to a full 45 degree angle, should do it for
you. It will sure stop what the blade inherently throws out through
the opening. And with the saw getting the full effect of your dust
extractor I wouldn't be surprised if it took full care of your
problem. You need some fresh air coming into your sawdust collection
area, to keep full flow and carry everything away, back to your
collectors, and the space needed for your belt to operate should
really help that and not be a detriment.

Yes I do, I have gate valves on everything. I was thinking something on the back, but its the 45 degree tilt that was giving me a fit. However I agree with you that I don't want to close it off completely. I hadn't even given that a thought. I think this problem gust got a little easer. Thank You for your input.

Tom

I just block off the back of my contractor saw with light ply, I use
rare earth mags, and two nails as pins to keep it from sliding.
I have to take it off for any tilt of the arbor.

Mine is two pieces so it covers above the motor support and below.

--
Jeff

On 1/20/2016 9:47 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/20/2016 4:08 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 20, 2016 at 2:59:19 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:01:52 -0800 (PST), Tom
wrote:

[snip]


Yes I do, I have gate valves on everything. I was thinking something
on the back, but its the 45 degree tilt that was giving me a fit.
However I agree with you that I don't want to close it off completely.
I hadn't even given that a thought. I think this problem gust got a
little easer. Thank You for your input.

Tom

I just block off the back of my contractor saw with light ply, I use
rare earth mags, and two nails as pins to keep it from sliding.
I have to take it off for any tilt of the arbor.

Mine is two pieces so it covers above the motor support and below.

Nice, Woodchucker.

I was about to suggest that he find some sheet rubber/neoprene in an
appropriate size and with appropriate frame (possibly aluminum angle) he
should be able to seal it pretty well with exception of the pass through
of the belt. With enough slack added it, it should accommodate full
tilt and full range of height without needing to be readjusted or removed.

Just a quick search showed me that he can probably find a suitable
thickness and sized sheet for under $25