I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html



Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out right.

On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 12:31:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html


This one looks like a guy could use their existing fixed templates and
just make a jig like they show in their video, and Bingo!

Am I missing something?



Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out right.

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 12:31:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html


This one looks like a guy could use their existing fixed templates and
just make a jig like they show in their video, and Bingo!

Am I missing something?

Perhaps but the opposite side of the jig is offset to cut the mating
pieces. And you need an exact bushing and exact size bit. The jig is not
expensive as far as these type jigs go and they are often significantly
discounted at ww shows. I think I would put my effort and a little money
towards the actual jig rather than saving a few $ and trying to build part
of it myself.









Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out right.

On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a
lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html




Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out right.


Thanks Leon. My defunct Rockler was non adjustable and I was able to use
it OK. After filling my basement with flying shavings I was able to copy
a design from someone on this NG who was able to capture many of the
chips as they flew off the router bit. I guess if I go to my router
table I will be back to a big mess but having a good jig would be worth
it. I will study your suggestions tomorrow morning. I was watching New
England play KC tonight.

On 1/16/2016 9:05 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a
lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in
half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html





Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out
right.


Thanks Leon. My defunct Rockler was non adjustable and I was able to use
it OK. After filling my basement with flying shavings I was able to copy
a design from someone on this NG who was able to capture many of the
chips as they flew off the router bit. I guess if I go to my router
table I will be back to a big mess but having a good jig would be worth
it. I will study your suggestions tomorrow morning. I was watching New
England play KC tonight.



FWIW routers tend to be messy. Leigh jigs makes a dust collector set up
and I gave one to Swingman. IIRC it is more trouble than it is worth.
I would not let, in this case, dust/chips enter into the determination
of which jig you choose.

On 1/16/2016 11:10 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2016 9:05 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They
don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a
lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not
available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in
half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html






Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out
right.


Thanks Leon. My defunct Rockler was non adjustable and I was able to use
it OK. After filling my basement with flying shavings I was able to copy
a design from someone on this NG who was able to capture many of the
chips as they flew off the router bit. I guess if I go to my router
table I will be back to a big mess but having a good jig would be worth
it. I will study your suggestions tomorrow morning. I was watching New
England play KC tonight.



FWIW routers tend to be messy. Leigh jigs makes a dust collector set up
and I gave one to Swingman. IIRC it is more trouble than it is worth. I
would not let, in this case, dust/chips enter into the determination of
which jig you choose.

Thanks Leon. There is a Woodcraft store about 45 minutes from where I
work. I think I will take a drive and see the RTJ400 with my own eyes.

On 1/17/2016 3:35 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 1/16/2016 11:10 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2016 9:05 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2016 10:36 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have been using a Rockler dovetail jig I bought at least 5 years
ago.
It was OK but a real pain to setup. It is 311373 if you care. They
don't
sell it anymore. It has had it and I am in the market for a new one. I
want to get a jig for half blind and through dovetails. I don't care
much about box joints. Does anyone have a jig that they really like a
lot?

TIA for your answers.

Dick Snyder

Leigh builds several. Akeda is reported to be good but is not
available.

You should consider which style you want. Jigs come as adjustable and
non adjustable. With adjustable you can adjust the tails and
fingers on
the jig to fit the piece od wood you are working with. With non
adjustable you have to adjust wood widths to what will work with the
jig, otherwise you end up with partial pins and or tails.

Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

Also many now sit on top of a router table and you move the jig and
wood
on top of the router table, the router is stationary. Leigh has
recently gotten into offering this type jig also.

I have the Leigh D4 jig and it is great when I can remember how to set
it up. Swingman has the same and had issues with the fingers slipping
and screwing up cuts. It is very versatile but you must read the
instructions a time or two or more. HE uses the Akeda now IIRC.

I have steered from dovetails unless the customer dictates that I use
them. I either use rabbited joints reinforced with through Domino
tenons or I use box joints. I use the Incra iBox for cutting those.

Knowing what I know now I would opt for non adjustable fingers and
design around the capability of the jig. There is simply less to keep
up with when the pieces, when cut properly, all fit. When you DT tails
and pins are asymmetrical you have to pay close attention to tops of
boards and bottoms of boards.

One advantage to the newest D4 series DT jigs is that you can cut the
pin and tail boards at the same time essentially cutting work time in
half.

Then there is this set up that I have seen at WW shows. I'm not
convinced that it is for any type of production work as it uses a
relative small bit and has limitations as to what how wide of a board
you can cut.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nt_system.html







Most likely I would go this route.

https://www.leighjigs.com/rtj400_overview.php

The beauty to this jig is that gravity works with you to insure that
the
work is fully seated on the jig.


Or maybe this one for simplicity

https://www.leighjigs.com/r9.php

The draw back, like with most stationary jigs, is that gravity works
against you in properly seating the work in the jig. If one side ends
up being low or the template flexes you cut is not going to come out
right.


Thanks Leon. My defunct Rockler was non adjustable and I was able to use
it OK. After filling my basement with flying shavings I was able to copy
a design from someone on this NG who was able to capture many of the
chips as they flew off the router bit. I guess if I go to my router
table I will be back to a big mess but having a good jig would be worth
it. I will study your suggestions tomorrow morning. I was watching New
England play KC tonight.



FWIW routers tend to be messy. Leigh jigs makes a dust collector set up
and I gave one to Swingman. IIRC it is more trouble than it is worth. I
would not let, in this case, dust/chips enter into the determination of
which jig you choose.

Thanks Leon. There is a Woodcraft store about 45 minutes from where I
work. I think I will take a drive and see the RTJ400 with my own eyes.


I was looking and found this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb09tYFoNZo#t=198

Something I might remind you about, and it shows in the video when he
cuts the pins. You need to pay attention to where the bit enters, makes
climb cuts, and exits. Typically you make a climb cut between the jig
fingers to help prevent tear out when the bit exits the slot. This is
pretty much true with most jigs. I'm sure the manual will cover this.
Leigh is pretty good about tips.

On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

I don't know if I'll ever get one of those. My woodworking skills have a
way to go yet. But judging by what I have read here, I think I would be
inclined to devote a router to that function only. Once I got the bit
just to the right setup depth, I'd never move it.

Joking? Maybe.

Maybe not.

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n7j2j5$i55$1@dont-
email.me:

On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

I don't know if I'll ever get one of those. My woodworking skills have a
way to go yet. But judging by what I have read here, I think I would be
inclined to devote a router to that function only. Once I got the bit
just to the right setup depth, I'd never move it.

Joking? Maybe.

Maybe not.

What sort of loctite to you use to hold a dovetail bit to the collet?

(File that under "solving the problem at the wrong point.")

Puckdropper

On 18 Jan 2016 17:11:54 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n7j2j5$i55$1@dont-
email.me:

On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

I don't know if I'll ever get one of those. My woodworking skills have a
way to go yet. But judging by what I have read here, I think I would be
inclined to devote a router to that function only. Once I got the bit
just to the right setup depth, I'd never move it.

Joking? Maybe.

Maybe not.

What sort of loctite to you use to hold a dovetail bit to the collet?

(File that under "solving the problem at the wrong point.")

Puckdropper

Or 1 router each for 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4?

On 1/18/2016 10:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/15/2016 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
Regardless most all especially with half blind you have to typically
sneak up on the bit depth, too deep and the fit is too tight, too
shallow and the git is too loose.

I don't know if I'll ever get one of those. My woodworking skills have a
way to go yet. But judging by what I have read here, I think I would be
inclined to devote a router to that function only. Once I got the bit
just to the right setup depth, I'd never move it.

Joking? Maybe.

Maybe not.


Well bits wear out...... And then wood hardness comes into play...

The new Leigh RTJ 400 has a dept gauge for the bit and then
compensates for tight or loose fit by adjusting the eccentric guide
bushing.