This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

Bill

On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew



Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.

Leon wrote:
On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew



Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.

I think Lew's point was that if you have a dado blade you don't need to
spend any more money. Lots of the woodworker media focused on getting
woodworkers to buy more stuff, period. They don't really care whether
you ever use it or not. Some folks see the infomercial and say, "I need
that to be a good woodworker". Lew is just pointing out, I think, that
it ain't so. If it ever gets out that the most important part of
woodworking occurs in the mind, some retailers might be
sunk! ; ) Of course, there are those who would argue that the most
important part of woodworking doesn't occur in the mind, and surely they
are correct too. Roy Underhill explained it all once when I train was
going by so I didn't catch the whole thing...

On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 23:33:23 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

The bottoms depend on how big the drawer is and what you're putting in
there. For anything less than 18", or so, and normal stuff, 1/4" ply
is probably enough. If you're putting boxes of hammer heads in a 36"
drawer, it should probably be thicker. ;-) I like 3/4" ply for
sides, if I'm using dados for the joints (the reasons I bought a
dovetail jig - thinner sides).

On 9/11/2015 9:29 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew



Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.

I think Lew's point was that if you have a dado blade you don't need to
spend any more money.

Same goes with a regular blade. Both a dado blade and the suggested bit
for making the drawer joints are unnecessary. Both are more expensive
options for doing the same thing that can be done with regular blade.

Lots of the woodworker media focused on getting
woodworkers to buy more stuff, period. They don't really care whether
you ever use it or not.

And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
using a dado set.

Some folks see the infomercial and say, "I need
that to be a good woodworker". Lew is just pointing out, I think, that
it ain't so.

Agreed. But a good comparison is using a bench top mortiser, $250, or a
Festool Domino, $900. The mortiser will do the job but the Domino does
the job maybe 20 times faster. I have cut in excess of 10,000 mortises
with my Domino, I very seriously doubt that many have done the same with
the mortiser that they may own.



If it ever gets out that the most important part of
woodworking occurs in the mind, some retailers might be
sunk! ; ) Of course, there are those who would argue that the most
important part of woodworking doesn't occur in the mind, and surely they
are correct too. Roy Underhill explained it all once when I train was
going by so I didn't catch the whole thing...

On 9/10/2015 10:33 PM, Bill wrote:

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength.

What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes today.

I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2" drawer
side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different widths,all
5' long).

The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom, and
the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.

I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.

Here's a video I posted on how I do a locking rabbet joint on the table saw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7iQFW4hq8

You can make a ton of nice, serviceable drawers, with no finishing
required, quickly and at a cost effective price that can can actually be
a profit center on a job.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...19365912134706

If you need to make them wider, simply use leftover scraps from the 1/2"
pre-finished drawer side material to reinforce the bottoms, as you see he

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554... 4779998629746

... glued to the drawer bottom, and finish nailed to the side, the
nail holes to be covered by the drawer slides

Bet I've made enough to pay for a half a dozen table saws, and dozens of
dado stacks, just from these drawers alone.

AAMOF, I can make them so quickly and cost effectively that I'll often
throw some in as lagniappe on a cabinet remodel, simply to replace the
old, flimsy, existing drawers that do NOT complement the hard work we've
already accomplished.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 10:48:10 AM UTC-4, krw wrote:
On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 23:33:23 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

The bottoms depend on how big the drawer is and what you're putting in
there. For anything less than 18", or so, and normal stuff, 1/4" ply
is probably enough. If you're putting boxes of hammer heads in a 36"
drawer, it should probably be thicker. ;-)

How many hammer heads can you fit in a 36" drawer?

http://www.divetime.com/images/photo...ammerheads.jpg

On 9/11/2015 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.

Has anyone ever just used a stack of standard blades as a dado blade?

On 9/11/2015 4:33 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
On 9/11/2015 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.

Has anyone ever just used a stack of standard blades as a dado blade?

Certainly someone has but dado blades are unique. There is certainly a
left and a right side and the chippers cut a flat bottom, at least this
true with quality sets.
Just another reason to use a better solution rather than what you can
get by with.

On 9/11/2015 12:35 PM, Leon wrote:


And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
using a dado set.


My thought is $40 is cheap and as you say, it speeds up and/or
simplifies the process, at least for amateurs such as myself.

On Fri, 11 Sep 2015 18:57:49 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

On 9/11/2015 12:35 PM, Leon wrote:


And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
using a dado set.


My thought is $40 is cheap and as you say, it speeds up and/or
simplifies the process, at least for amateurs such as myself.

If simplifies the process such that I don't make as many mistakes,
it's worth a *lot* more than $40. Fast is also good. I have a far
more discretionary dollars than discretionary hours.

Bill wrote:

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers
to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados
will
definitely add desirable strength.

What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
-------------------------------------------------------
"Swingman" wrote:

I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes
today.

I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2"
drawer side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different
widths,all 5' long).

The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom,
and the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.

I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.
---------------------------------------------------------
As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change in
scope", "write up a change order.

My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.

Being able to use dedicated, prefabricated and prefinished material
totally changes the situation.

As far as the U-Tube demo is concerned, my personal choice is to
avoid a miter gage wherever possible and use a sled and some cleats
for smaller pieces.

IMHO, it is safer and you are less likely to waste material.

Of course I'm not on the clock which makes a difference.

Lew

On 9/11/2015 11:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change in
scope", "write up a change order.

My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.

LOL ... Mea Culpa.

I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type, and,
as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the necessity of
the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip video specifically
entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.

Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.

IMHO, that is a waste of money.

Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.

A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.

Lew

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

Bill

I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 + this
way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms. I once
proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years ago, when I stood
on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x 32". This was one of
three pots and pans drawers.

Swingman wrote:
On 9/10/2015 10:33 PM, Bill wrote:

Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength.

What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?

I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes today.

I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2" drawer
side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different widths,all
5' long).

The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom,
and the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.

I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.

Here's a video I posted on how I do a locking rabbet joint on the
table saw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7iQFW4hq8

You can make a ton of nice, serviceable drawers, with no finishing
required, quickly and at a cost effective price that can can actually
be a profit center on a job.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...19365912134706


If you need to make them wider, simply use leftover scraps from the
1/2" pre-finished drawer side material to reinforce the bottoms, as
you see he

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554... 4779998629746


... glued to the drawer bottom, and finish nailed to the side, the
nail holes to be covered by the drawer slides

Bet I've made enough to pay for a half a dozen table saws, and dozens
of dado stacks, just from these drawers alone.

AAMOF, I can make them so quickly and cost effectively that I'll often
throw some in as lagniappe on a cabinet remodel, simply to replace the
old, flimsy, existing drawers that do NOT complement the hard work
we've already accomplished.

Nice looking drawers, and I couldn't ask for clearer instructions! Thank
you for sharing!

Bill

Leon wrote in
:

I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 +
this way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms.
I once proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years
ago, when I stood on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x
32". This was one of three pots and pans drawers.

Shearing 1/4 ply would take an immense weight (even shearing
psuedo-woods like masonite or hardboard would take a lot). So
your two risks are the bottom flexing enough to come out of
the groove, or the bottom of the groove failing. The first is
unlikely if the groove is reasonably tight, even for traditional
style drawers without a groove at the back. The second is
unlikely unless you cut the groove too close to the bottom of
the side.

John

On 9/12/2015 10:26 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon wrote in
:

I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 +
this way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms.
I once proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years
ago, when I stood on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x
32". This was one of three pots and pans drawers.

Shearing 1/4 ply would take an immense weight (even shearing
psuedo-woods like masonite or hardboard would take a lot). So
your two risks are the bottom flexing enough to come out of
the groove, or the bottom of the groove failing. The first is
unlikely if the groove is reasonably tight, even for traditional
style drawers without a groove at the back. The second is
unlikely unless you cut the groove too close to the bottom of
the side.

John


I will say that I do build my drawers a bit differently also. The
grooves for the bottoms are cut for exact fit and I do not slide the
bottom in from the back under the back side. The bottom is totally
captured and inset into groves by both sides, from and back. It is
captured during glue up.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change
in
scope", "write up a change order.

My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.

LOL ... Mea Culpa.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Swingman" wrote:

I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
------------------------------------------------------------
If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
feature,
but unnecessary bit.

Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a totally
new ball game, application wise..

Lew

On 9/12/2015 6:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change
in
scope", "write up a change order.

My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.

LOL ... Mea Culpa.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Swingman" wrote:

I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
------------------------------------------------------------
If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
feature,
but unnecessary bit.

Why?

Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a totally
new ball game, application wise..

How?

Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using a
dedicated router bit.

The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as to width, or
not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.

Regardless of the stock used in my post, you still must provide the
drawer JOINERY of your choice.

Again, your original post was SOLELY about a bit that is dedicated to
providing "Rock Solid Drawer "JOINTS", _irrespective of material_ .

---
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman" wrote: I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type, and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". ------------------------------------------------------------Lew Hodgett wrote: If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice feature, but unnecessary bit.------------------------------------------------------------ Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.------------------------------------------------------------ Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into atotally new ball game, application wise..------------------------------------------------------------------- How?---------------------------------------------------------------You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.--------------------------------------------------------------------- Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using adedicated router bit. The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.------------------------------------------------------------But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman"
wrote: I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any
type, and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with
the necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
------------------------------------------------------------Lew
Hodgett wrote: If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit
becomes a nice feature, but unnecessary
bit.------------------------------------------------------------
Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using
the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes
the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a
natural.------------------------------------------------------------
Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into
atotally new ball game, application
wise..-------------------------------------------------------------------
How?---------------------------------------------------------------You
seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but
what is left lends itself to the drawer joint
bit.---------------------------------------------------------------------
Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using
adedicated router bit. The material used - finished, unfinished,
purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery
method.------------------------------------------------------------But
it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand
the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled
where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of
things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew


Geezus Lew - you think you could post this again in a more logical, and
readable manner?

--

-Mike-

"Swingman" wrote:

I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
------------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:

If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
feature,
but unnecessary bit.

------------------------------------------------------------
Why?
-------------------------------------------------------------
Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,
and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.
------------------------------------------------------------
Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a
totally
new ball game, application wise.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
How?
---------------------------------------------------------------
You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,
but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using a
dedicated router bit.

The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as to
width,
or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.
------------------------------------------------------------
But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep time
and the methods used to do the job.

I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.

Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but for
drawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.

Lew

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Gezzus Lew - you think you could post this again in a more logical,
and
readable manner?
------------------------------------------------------------
Totally clueless,

Try again.

Lew

On 9/13/2015 8:14 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,

Yeah Buddy! How about them apples, eh?

_but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit _ .

LOL The drawers in the photos, with joinery done on the table saw, blows
that contention completely out of the water.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 9/13/2015 7:43 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman" wrote: I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type, and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". ------------------------------------------------------------Lew Hodgett wrote: If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice feature, but unnecessary bit.------------------------------------------------------------ Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.------------------------------------------------------------ Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into atotally new ball game, application wise..----------------------------------------------
--------------------- How?---------------------------------------------------------------You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.--------------------------------------------------------------------- Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using adedicated router bit. The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.------------------------------------------------------------But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew


Jeeezus, Lew ... that mess is as confused as your argument.

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