Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units, trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many, dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished.
Two coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top).
Think I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg
units, trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not
many, dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

If you choose, but it's not necessary unless they are really big goobers.
You can wait until the final coats are complete if you wish.


I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best
procedure for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet
sanding remove a semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? ....
Wax after sanding?


Yes it does, but you can restore the sheen by rubbing the sanded finish out
with rubbing compound. It doesn't take long to bring it right back. Wet
sand with 1000 grit, then up through 1500 and even 2000, all the way to 3000
if you choose. Where you want the finish to end is your decision - you may
not want to go to rubbing compound. Any automotive rubbing compound will
work just fine. Look for a medium cut compound.



--

-Mike-

Sonny wrote:
Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two
coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think
I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units,
trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many,
dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure
for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a
semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny

If you are going to sand to just remove the dust nibs try simply wrapping a
piece of printer paper around a small block of wood and give the surface a
few back and forth passes. Works for me.

Leon wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two
coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think
I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units,
trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many,
dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure
for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a
semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny

If you are going to sand to just remove the dust nibs try simply wrapping a
piece of printer paper around a small block of wood and give the surface a
few back and forth passes. Works for me.

Looking BTY!

On 9/6/2015 8:35 AM, Leon wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two
coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think
I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units,
trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many,
dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure
for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a
semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny

If you are going to sand to just remove the dust nibs try simply wrapping a
piece of printer paper around a small block of wood and give the surface a
few back and forth passes. Works for me.


Or taking a credit card and using it as a scraper, the plastic is less
hard on a new finish, than steel.



--
Jeff

The top came out great. I'm happy. Maybe 5 dust nibs on the last coating. I burnished it with newsprint, as Leon suggested.

Now, I need some help assembling it. Three more pics. https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?

Sonny

So Sonny, what did you finally decide to use as a top coat? Did you prime, if so, with what?

The table looks great!

Robert

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 3:53:03 PM UTC-5, wrote:
So Sonny, what did you finally decide to use as a top coat? Did you prime, if so, with what?

The table looks great!

Robert

Thanks. I used Varathane water based Floor Finish, for all coats.

I'm anxious to assemble it and see the whole, as one, not piece meal.

Sonny

On 9/6/2015 7:37 AM, Leon wrote:
Leon wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two
coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.

I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think
I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units,
trestle board and other small parts.

I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many,
dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.

I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure
for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a
semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny

If you are going to sand to just remove the dust nibs try simply wrapping a
piece of printer paper around a small block of wood and give the surface a
few back and forth passes. Works for me.

Looking BTY!



Um Looking Great BTW

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 11:07:50 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Um Looking Great BTW

Thanks Leon. I had thought that's what you meant.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 11:07:50 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Um Looking Great BTW

Thanks Leon. I had thought that's what you meant.

Sonny

:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.

On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 7:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.

In somewhat that school of thought, of proof reading, I had second guessed myself, regarding finishing this table.

Some time ago, I had thought hand rubbing a finish, onto all parts of the table, would give it a "warm" look to it. I had assumed an oil finish would rub on, as I envisioned a hand rubbed finish would be. The problem was, I have never hand rubbed a finish on anything, from the start. I suppose French or Danish polishing is a hand rubbed finishing technique and I've never attempted those, in their true sense of the applications.

Another objection, though, to applying an oil, was the finish darkening, in time, as with applying BLO.... and that it may not dry as I would have liked it to dry. I had applied BLO to the trestle board and, as I think Robert mentioned, BLO would darken or tone down the appearance of the grain of the walnut. So, here again, I decided not to apply an oil finish.

Some time ago, I had wondered if your hand application of the gel stains and finishes was what I needed to do. I need to practice hand rubbing some finishes (oils only?), in order to have some confidence in their applications and what results they give, or assumes they would give... and specifically for this type of project.

I also recall Karl did a walnut sofa table, I think it was. I liked those results, but don't recall if he sprayed or wiped-on the finish.

Otherwise, I sprayed the finish on, which I had most confidence in. I liked your wiped on results. I was tempted to try a wiped/rubbed on finish, on the table, but the project was coming out so well, I didn't want to screw it up, so I applied what/how I was most confortable with.

I felt, spending so much time building a nice project, then applying a subpar finish on it, or using subpar application technique was my handicap, hence second guessing what I was doing. I hope the Varathane finish is an apropriate finish for this project.

Sonny

On 9/9/2015 9:01 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 7:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.

In somewhat that school of thought, of proof reading, I had second
guessed myself, regarding finishing this table.

;~)


Some time ago, I had thought hand rubbing a finish, onto all parts of
the table, would give it a "warm" look to it. I had assumed an oil
finish would rub on, as I envisioned a hand rubbed finish would be.
The problem was, I have never hand rubbed a finish on anything, from
the start. I suppose French or Danish polishing is a hand rubbed
finishing technique and I've never attempted those, in their true
sense of the applications.

The type finish you choose should align with what you want to
accomplish. Not all finishes add the same amount of protection and of
course different finishes look different.

If protection is a priority you might look at some floor finishes.

The gel varnish finishes are, as "Nailshooter" so eloquently put it,
"adult" finishes. Basically they are great but don't add a lot of
protection. That said I have never had to refinish anything with a gel
varnish finish. A dining table top might be asking too much of a gel
finish. A hand rubbed finish would basically offer no better protection.




Another objection, though, to applying an oil, was the finish
darkening, in time, as with applying BLO.... and that it may not dry
as I would have liked it to dry. I had applied BLO to the trestle
board and, as I think Robert mentioned, BLO would darken or tone down
the appearance of the grain of the walnut. So, here again, I decided
not to apply an oil finish.

I have found that oil finishes tend to add a bit of a golden color to
most any wood but I believe that a darkening effect might have more to
wood color to start with. Some woods fade, some darken.




Some time ago, I had wondered if your hand application of the gel
stains and finishes was what I needed to do. I need to practice
hand rubbing some finishes (oils only?), in order to have some
confidence in their applications and what results they give, or
assumes they would give... and specifically for this type of
project.

Gel stains and varnishes are quite a bit different from other finishes.
The excess needs to be rubbed off almost immediately and with the case
of Old Masters a second immediate rub down is necessary.
BUT you cant screw this finish up unless you don't to the rub downs
immediately. And I can't stress immediately enough.

In case you have not seen this, this is me applying an Old Masters gel
varnish to a door panel. I apply a minimum of 3 coats over a few days.
Note that in the beginning that I just finished doing one side and
immediately flipped it over and did the opposite side. This finish is
that forgiving. Needless to say the surface was relatively clean but
again, you almost can't screw this up unless you wait too long to rub
the finish out 2 times after application. Don't apply to too big of an
area before wiping down.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/14551271662/

On another note, I used a General Finishes Arm-R-Seal on these night
tables. I built two. I initially used a rag to seal the wood, wiping
off the excess per the instructions. And then I applied a single final
coat with a "quality" Wooster "Foam" brush.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/






I also recall Karl did a walnut sofa table, I think it was. I liked
those results, but don't recall if he sprayed or wiped-on the
finish.

Otherwise, I sprayed the finish on, which I had most confidence in.
I liked your wiped on results. I was tempted to try a wiped/rubbed
on finish, on the table, but the project was coming out so well, I
didn't want to screw it up, so I applied what/how I was most
confortable with.

I felt, spending so much time building a nice project, then applying
a subpar finish on it, or using subpar application technique was my
handicap, hence second guessing what I was doing. I hope the
Varathane finish is an apropriate finish for this project.

Sonny

On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 9:54:19 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In case you have not seen this, this is me applying an Old Masters gel
varnish to a door panel. I apply a minimum of 3 coats over a few days.
Note that in the beginning that I just finished doing one side and
immediately flipped it over and did the opposite side. This finish is
that forgiving. Needless to say the surface was relatively clean but
again, you almost can't screw this up unless you wait too long to rub
the finish out 2 times after application. Don't apply to too big of an
area before wiping down.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/14551271662/

Yeah, you had posted this not too long ago and I watched it, then. This is what made me consider applying a wipe-on type finish. At the time, I was nearing the completion of the build, so I had began thinking of my finishing, what options for finishing, etc.

I did want something durable for the table top, since I had considered it for the camp. I've been reconsidering bringing it to the camp, also, since it has turned out so nice. It may get "trashed" at the camp, considering there are drunkards, there, sometimes/often times.

Thanks.
Sonny

In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 7:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.

In somewhat that school of thought, of proof reading, I had second guessed myself, regarding finishing this table.

Some time ago, I had thought hand rubbing a finish, onto all parts of the table, would give it a "warm" look to it. I had assumed an oil finish would rub on, as I envisioned a hand rubbed finish would be. The problem was, I have never hand rubbed a finish on anything, from the start. I suppose French or Danish polishing is a hand rubbed finishing technique and I've never attempted those, in their true sense of the applications.

Another objection, though, to applying an oil, was the finish darkening, in time, as with applying BLO.... and that it may not dry as I would have liked it to dry. I had applied BLO to the trestle board and, as I think Robert mentioned, BLO would darken or tone down the appearance of the grain of the walnut. So, here again, I decided not to apply an oil finish.

Some time ago, I had wondered if your hand application of the gel stains and finishes was what I needed to do. I need to practice hand rubbing some finishes (oils only?), in order to have some confidence in their applications and what results they give, or assumes they would give... and specifically for this type of project.

I also recall Karl did a walnut sofa table, I think it was. I liked those results, but don't recall if he sprayed or wiped-on the finish.

Otherwise, I sprayed the finish on, which I had most confidence in. I liked your wiped on results. I was tempted to try a wiped/rubbed on finish, on the table, but the project was coming out so well, I didn't want to screw it up, so I applied what/how I was most confortable with.

I felt, spending so much time building a nice project, then applying a subpar finish on it, or using subpar application technique was my handicap, hence second guessing what I was doing. I hope the Varathane finish is an apropriate finish for this project.

Sonny

"Hand rubbing" is actually a polishing technique. When I was much
younger show cars would have "hand-rubbed" finishes. You can get any
degree of gloss you want that way, but you have to start with a film-
forming finish, usually lacquer--you _can_ polish polyurethane but it
fights you at every turn. ML Campbell Magnamax polishes beautifully--I
presume the competing products from the other big players in the
industry do as well.

The classic "hand-rubbed" finish on wood is a French polish, which uses
shellac--there's an oil involved as well but the oil isn't the finish,
it keeps the pad from sticking to the finish.

Personally I'm lazy--if I want that kind of finish I'll shoot or brush
Magnamax and then get out the ROS and Micromesh and buff it out with
Meguiars 205 and a D/A polisher (not that it needs much buffing after
the Micromesh).

On 9/9/2015 5:41 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 7:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.

In somewhat that school of thought, of proof reading, I had second guessed myself, regarding finishing this table.

Some time ago, I had thought hand rubbing a finish, onto all parts of the table, would give it a "warm" look to it. I had assumed an oil finish would rub on, as I envisioned a hand rubbed finish would be. The problem was, I have never hand rubbed a finish on anything, from the start. I suppose French or Danish polishing is a hand rubbed finishing technique and I've never attempted those, in their true sense of the applications.

Another objection, though, to applying an oil, was the finish darkening, in time, as with applying BLO.... and that it may not dry as I would have liked it to dry. I had applied BLO to the trestle board and, as I think Robert mentioned, BLO would darken or tone down the appearance of the grain of the walnut. So, here again, I decided not to apply an oil finish.

Some time ago, I had wondered if your hand application of the gel stains and finishes was what I needed to do. I need to practice hand rubbing some finishes (oils only?), in order to have some confidence in their applications and what results they give, or assumes they would give... and specifically for this type of project.

I also recall Karl did a walnut sofa table, I think it was. I liked those results, but don't recall if he sprayed or wiped-on the finish.

Otherwise, I sprayed the finish on, which I had most confidence in. I liked your wiped on results. I was tempted to try a wiped/rubbed on finish, on the table, but the project was coming out so well, I didn't want to screw it up, so I applied what/how I was most confortable with.

I felt, spending so much time building a nice project, then applying a subpar finish on it, or using subpar application technique was my handicap, hence second guessing what I was doing. I hope the Varathane finish is an apropriate finish for this project.

Sonny

"Hand rubbing" is actually a polishing technique. When I was much
younger show cars would have "hand-rubbed" finishes. You can get any
degree of gloss you want that way, but you have to start with a film-
forming finish, usually lacquer--you _can_ polish polyurethane but it
fights you at every turn. ML Campbell Magnamax polishes beautifully--I
presume the competing products from the other big players in the
industry do as well.

The classic "hand-rubbed" finish on wood is a French polish, which uses
shellac--there's an oil involved as well but the oil isn't the finish,
it keeps the pad from sticking to the finish.

Personally I'm lazy--if I want that kind of finish I'll shoot or brush
Magnamax and then get out the ROS and Micromesh and buff it out with
Meguiars 205 and a D/A polisher (not that it needs much buffing after
the Micromesh).



Actually I have heard hand rubbing wood with, BLO IIRC, creates a sheen
developed from the friction/heat