do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to ambient
temperatures

Electric Comet wrote:

do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to ambient
temperatures

Volume. Any differences in volume based on any atmospheric conditions is
going to be so miniscule, as to be non-existent. Your ability to be
perfectly precise using either method negates any theoretical error.

--

-Mike-

"Electric Comet" wrote:

do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to
ambient
temperatures
-----------------------------------------------------------
What are you mixing?

Lew

"Electric Comet" wrote in message ...

do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to ambient
temperatures

I've been using West Systems epoxy for twenty-five years or so, 105 resin
and usually 205 or 206 hardener, and mixing 5:1 by volume throughout that
whole period without any troubles at all. Their web site says 5:1 for either
weight or volume, so apparently they're very close to the same density.

On the other hand, to mix 105 resin with 207 or 209 hardener, they say 3:1
for volume and 3.5:1 for weight, so they must differ in density enough for
it to matter.

I used to use their calibrated pumps, but stopped a long time ago because
the pumps dribble a bit as air pressure changes, and probably on account of
capillary action, and the cleanup got kind of messy. So now I just use pairs
of small graduated cups for measurement. I'll take a fine-point sharpie pen
and mark the graduations on the two cups so that I can eyeball the
measurement accurately.

You should consult the manufacturer's instructions for whatever system of
epoxy you use, and go by their recommendations.

Tom

In article , lid
says...

do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to ambient
temperatures

Do you have the correct information to mix by weight?

The "right" way to do it is usually with a purpose-made ratio pump.

On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 4:02:52 PM UTC-5, tdacon wrote:
So now I just use pairs
of small graduated cups for measurement. I'll take a fine-point sharpie pen
and mark the graduations on the two cups so that I can eyeball the
measurement accurately.

Tom

If I'm not mistaken, your local drug store should have 5cc, 10cc and 30cc syringes available. If not your drug store, try purchasing syringes from a medical supply outlet. You can eject the air, from the cylinder, before use, to prevent that air issue, as with the calibrated pumps. *I've never used their pumps.... I suppose their pumps are, essentally, a syringe-type mechanism? **Medical syringes may be too small for your applications.

Syringe use: Pull the plunger out, to fill from the large end/opening. Cleanup, for reuse, is fairly easy, too, with the plunger/piston removed.... just make sure you clean/clean around, well, the rubber gasket on the plunger/piston.

Sonny

Electric Comet wrote:
do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to ambient
temperatures

What does does the label say?

Equal parts? Volume

Most consumers aren't chemists and probably do not have scales accurate
enough. Unless the label specifies weight it might be wrong to assume that
equal volume of both parts weigh the same.

Leon wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
do you measure and mix by volume or weight

i think i will do the ratio by weight
seems more accurate to me in case of volume differences due to
ambient temperatures

What does does the label say?

Equal parts? Volume

Most consumers aren't chemists and probably do not have scales
accurate enough. Unless the label specifies weight it might be wrong
to assume that equal volume of both parts weigh the same.

Correct! This is quickly going to the point of needless levels of
precision. At best - if the OP attempted to be the most precise by using
syringes, and scales and all that other crap, he would not be very far off
of what he would accomplish with a simple mixing method. This is a great
example of a question that started off, and is evovlving into a thread that
is just stupid in it's responses. Just mix the stuff and be done with it.
Ferchristssake - the doggoned project could be done by now...

--

-Mike-

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 11:20:51 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:

Correct! This is quickly going to the point of needless levels of
precision.

Agreed.

My posting, about using syringes, was more so for Tom, who (I assumed) seems to need precision for his different specific applications.

Sonny

On Fri, 07 Aug 2015 07:20:40 -0500
Leon wrote:

What does does the label say?

recall the question was
do you mix by volume or weight

not should i
etc

so the label does not say
leon always mixes by volume

Most consumers aren't chemists and probably do not have scales

so only chemists can have accurate scales
but what of the chemist that is also a consumer

BTY i have a sub $20 scale that's accurate enough

accurate enough. Unless the label specifies weight it might be wrong
to assume that equal volume of both parts weigh the same.

that is a true statement

On Thu, 6 Aug 2015 17:45:24 -0400
"J. Clarke" wrote:

The "right" way to do it is usually with a purpose-made ratio pump.

is that what you do
if so then you mix by volume

On Thu, 6 Aug 2015 14:02:46 -0700
"tdacon" wrote:

I've been using West Systems epoxy for twenty-five years or so, 105
resin and usually 205 or 206 hardener, and mixing 5:1 by volume
throughout that whole period without any troubles at all. Their web
site says 5:1 for either weight or volume, so apparently they're very
close to the same density.

not sure what the name of this stuff is it is specific for doing bar tops
and table tops

mixing well is important to make sure the polymerization proceeds
evenly and consistently


On the other hand, to mix 105 resin with 207 or 209 hardener, they
say 3:1 for volume and 3.5:1 for weight, so they must differ in
density enough for it to matter.

maybe 207/209 are a little hotter catalyst

I used to use their calibrated pumps, but stopped a long time ago
because the pumps dribble a bit as air pressure changes, and probably
on account of capillary action, and the cleanup got kind of messy. So

pumps are over complicated

now I just use pairs of small graduated cups for measurement. I'll
take a fine-point sharpie pen and mark the graduations on the two
cups so that I can eyeball the measurement accurately.

makes sense to mark it for good visibility

You should consult the manufacturer's instructions for whatever
system of epoxy you use, and go by their recommendations.

i have but will review once i get to pouring time

although i will do later in the day when it is cooler so it does not fire off
too quick

Electric Comet wrote:


not sure what the name of this stuff is it is specific for doing bar
tops and table tops

mixing well is important to make sure the polymerization proceeds
evenly and consistently


That information adds quite a bit to your original question. In the
specific case of this material - mixing in a 5 gallon bucket, close to what
the eye sees while standing up (think... plus or minus a quart or so...),
will work. Anything more precise than that is perhaps interesting, but of
little value beyond a slight difference in curing time. Really - the
tolerances in a product like this for an application like this, are really
quite wide.

--

-Mike-

"Electric Comet" wrote:

not sure what the name of this stuff is it is specific for doing bar
tops
and table tops

mixing well is important to make sure the polymerization proceeds
evenly and consistently
----------------------------------------------------
Bar top is a totally different animal than laminating epoxy.

Defer to the manufacturer's instructions.

If you don't have one, get a JiffyMixer.

Designed specifically for mixing resins.

Viscosity is not your friend when mixing.

Temperature is not your friend. Stay between 65F-75F.


Have fun.

Lew

On 8/7/2015 2:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 07 Aug 2015 07:20:40 -0500
Leon wrote:

What does does the label say?

recall the question was
do you mix by volume or weight

So you want to hear both right and wrong answers... Got'cha


not should i
etc

so the label does not say
leon always mixes by volume

I bet you are right.


Most consumers aren't chemists and probably do not have scales

If you are going to quote me please use everything I said.

Most consumers aren't chemists and probably do not have scales accurate
enough.



so only chemists can have accurate scales
but what of the chemist that is also a consumer

Won't work.


BTY i have a sub $20 scale that's accurate enough

How do you know this is true?




accurate enough. Unless the label specifies weight it might be wrong
to assume that equal volume of both parts weigh the same.

that is a true statement

Now see how this all got confusing when you cut my sentence and used the
remainder here?

So for those wondering, like me? Do you think you are smarter than
every one here. Most here are just trying to help anyone that is asking
questions. If the answer makes you go DUH! why didn't I think of that,
just say DOH, why didn't I think of that. Instead of being an ass.

On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 17:17:45 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

so much drama
the question was simply when you mix your resin do you weigh it or
measure it by volume

keyword is you
what do you do
not what should i do

On 8/7/2015 6:16 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 17:17:45 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

so much drama
the question was simply when you mix your resin do you weigh it or
measure it by volume

Actually you said, "do you measure and mix by volume or weight".

It sounded like you were solicitation a correct answer vs, a personal
preferred method. Rewording your sentence, as you have done above,
seems to steer more toward asking a preference, especially when you
added "your" in the revision of the first question vs. you. The fact
that you did change the words, your for you, solidifies that fact.

Anyway the way you ask questions may be different because of where you
are from vs. where I am from. Either way I was not the only one
confused by exactly what you wanted to know, a personal opinion or the
correct way.





keyword is you
what do you do
not what should i do

keyword is you what do you do not what should I do.

What? Should there have been a few commas in there?

I "was" the worlds worse at proof reading. You may be now.

In article , lid
says...

On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 17:17:45 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

so much drama
the question was simply when you mix your resin do you weigh it or
measure it by volume

keyword is you
what do you do
not what should i do

Why do you care so much what other people do?

On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 20:01:39 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Actually you said, "do you measure and mix by volume or weight".

you sure get worked up about nothing
did you ever answer
i lost track in all the other stuff

Electric Comet wrote in news:mq2vol$ge1$2
@dont-email.me:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2015 07:20:40 -0500
Leon wrote:

What does does the label say?

recall the question was
do you mix by volume or weight

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

As Mike said, it isn't something that's critical for almost
any application you're likely to do (since most of us are
not making composites for NASA). If you're a little heavy
on the catalyst, it'll harden faster (possibly before you
get it out of the mixing pot, which tends to be annoying).
If you're a little light, it'll take longer to harden and
will be weaker (and possibly will just stay a gooey mess
if you're way light).

John

"J. Clarke" wrote:
In article , lid
says...

On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 17:17:45 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

so much drama
the question was simply when you mix your resin do you weigh it or
measure it by volume

keyword is you
what do you do
not what should i do

Why do you care so much what other people do?

Because he does not know the proper way to do things but believes he will
recognize the correct way when and if he reads it.

On 8/7/2015 11:10 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 20:01:39 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Actually you said, "do you measure and mix by volume or weight".

you sure get worked up about nothing
did you ever answer
i lost track in all the other stuff



You missed it when you were busy calling the kettle black.

On 8/7/2015 11:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in news:mq2vol$ge1$2
@dont-email.me:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2015 07:20:40 -0500
Leon wrote:

What does does the label say?

recall the question was
do you mix by volume or weight

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

As Mike said, it isn't something that's critical for almost
any application you're likely to do (since most of us are
not making composites for NASA). If you're a little heavy
on the catalyst, it'll harden faster (possibly before you
get it out of the mixing pot, which tends to be annoying).
If you're a little light, it'll take longer to harden and
will be weaker (and possibly will just stay a gooey mess
if you're way light).

John


Strange enough, a small mesquite outlet near the Texas hill country,
which went up in the fires a few years ago had beautiful mesquite
objects and lumber for sale.

The owner indicated that they use an epoxy resin coating to give the
deep coating on some pieces.

The use of a canister fuel torch was used on the applied resin during
cure time to make the bubbles dissipate. He said that it was an acquired
talent.

Leon wrote:

The use of a canister fuel torch was used on the applied resin during
cure time to make the bubbles dissipate. He said that it was an
acquired talent.

It's pretty easy actually, pass the torch over it slowly enough to heat the
air in the bubbles thereby expanding it and popping the bubbles but not so
slowly that the epoxy catches fire

On 8/8/2015 11:24 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:

The use of a canister fuel torch was used on the applied resin during
cure time to make the bubbles dissipate. He said that it was an
acquired talent.

It's pretty easy actually, pass the torch over it slowly enough to heat the
air in the bubbles thereby expanding it and popping the bubbles but not so
slowly that the epoxy catches fire



..
Yeah, I recall that being about how it was explained. Catching fire
would be problematic. ;~)

On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Electric Comet wrote in news:mq5fht$3hn$1
@dont-email.me:

On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

Well, that's helpfully vague.

I'd pretty much garauntee, tho, that the catalyst is twice
as dense as the resin, so 2:1 is the pretty much the same
either by weight or volume.

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

When you buy your resin gallons at a time (or in 50gal drums,
like Lew) the pumps that just screw into the can are easiest.
For a one-time deal, measuring in cups is, as you say, the
simplest plan.

John

Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Then just do what you think is the most simple for you. Geezus...

--

-Mike-

On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 18:44:33 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

I'd pretty much garauntee, tho, that the catalyst is twice
as dense as the resin, so 2:1 is the pretty much the same
either by weight or volume.

major obvious strikes again

When you buy your resin gallons at a time (or in 50gal drums,
like Lew) the pumps that just screw into the can are easiest.

yeah it is hard to pour the resin out from a 50gal drum so
you need a pump

are you trying to say that the pump measures the volume as well

For a one-time deal, measuring in cups is, as you say, the
simplest plan.

no cleanup needed just toss it

On 8/8/2015 2:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Then just do what you think is the most simple for you. Geezus...



I know, right? Think I should mention to MR. Precision that you should
use 3 individual measuring cups instead of 2? ;~)

Leon wrote:
On 8/8/2015 2:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Then just do what you think is the most simple for you. Geezus...



I know, right? Think I should mention to MR. Precision that you
should use 3 individual measuring cups instead of 2? ;~)

I don't think it would help. It would just result in another tangent to
this thread.

--

-Mike-

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 8/8/2015 11:24 AM, dadiOH wrote:
It's pretty easy actually, pass the torch over it slowly enough to
heat the air in the bubbles thereby expanding it and popping the
bubbles but not so slowly that the epoxy catches fire



.
Yeah, I recall that being about how it was explained. Catching fire
would be problematic. ;~)


What about a heat gun? There's no open flame, so all you have to watch for
is the self-ignition temperature.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 8/8/2015 11:24 AM, dadiOH wrote:
It's pretty easy actually, pass the torch over it slowly enough to
heat the air in the bubbles thereby expanding it and popping the
bubbles but not so slowly that the epoxy catches fire



.
Yeah, I recall that being about how it was explained. Catching fire
would be problematic. ;~)


What about a heat gun? There's no open flame, so all you have to watch for
is the self-ignition temperature.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 08 Aug 2015 21:34:57 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

What about a heat gun? There's no open flame, so all you have to
watch for is the self-ignition temperature.

no need for heat if you pour it and mix it properly

"John McCoy" wrote:

As Mike said, it isn't something that's critical for almost
any application you're likely to do (since most of us are
not making composites for NASA). If you're a little heavy
on the catalyst, it'll harden faster (possibly before you
get it out of the mixing pot, which tends to be annoying).
If you're a little light, it'll take longer to harden and
will be weaker (and possibly will just stay a gooey mess
if you're way light).

-----------------------------------------------------
Are we talking about epoxy or polyester?

If polyester, then the amount of catalyst will affect the "kick" time.

If epoxy, then the part "A", part "B" must be maintained for the mix
to "kick" at all.

You can affect the viscosity of the mixed epoxy by adding some
denatured alcohol, up to about 5% max.

Lew

On 08/08/2015 01:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 8/8/2015 2:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Then just do what you think is the most simple for you. Geezus...



I know, right? Think I should mention to MR. Precision that you
should use 3 individual measuring cups instead of 2? ;~)

I don't think it would help. It would just result in another tangent to
this thread.


Ease up on the poor guy! He still hasn't figured out where the shift
and period keys are.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 8/8/2015 4:33 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 8/8/2015 11:24 AM, dadiOH wrote:
It's pretty easy actually, pass the torch over it slowly enough to
heat the air in the bubbles thereby expanding it and popping the
bubbles but not so slowly that the epoxy catches fire



.
Yeah, I recall that being about how it was explained. Catching fire
would be problematic. ;~)


What about a heat gun? There's no open flame, so all you have to watch for
is the self-ignition temperature.

Puckdropper


I was not the one doing it, that is what the pros tole me.

On 8/8/2015 6:34 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 08/08/2015 01:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 8/8/2015 2:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 04:32:23 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

The manufacturer will tell you that you should mix by weight
if you want to be precise.

the manufacturer specifies 2 parts resin to 1 part catalyst

That said, everyone I know mixes by volume, and all the
manufacturers sell pumps/syringes/cups/whatever to let you
mix by volume.

too much bother with pumps/sysringes

weighing with disposable cups is the simplest

Then just do what you think is the most simple for you. Geezus...



I know, right? Think I should mention to MR. Precision that you
should use 3 individual measuring cups instead of 2? ;~)

I don't think it would help. It would just result in another tangent to
this thread.


Ease up on the poor guy! He still hasn't figured out where the shift
and period keys are.


I know, right?

Electric Comet wrote:
On 08 Aug 2015 21:34:57 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

What about a heat gun? There's no open flame, so all you have to
watch for is the self-ignition temperature.

no need for heat if you pour it and mix it properly

Dream on. Pouring/mixing in any way do not prevent bubbles.

Electric Comet wrote in news:mq5n6n$lb$1
@dont-email.me:

are you trying to say that the pump measures the volume as well

Yes, exactly. West System, for example, sells a pump set
that fits on their cans. The pump for the resin pumps 5
times as much, per stroke, as the pump for the catalyst,
thus you get the correct 5:1 ratio.

John