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#1
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I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions
( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, |
#2
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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"sawdustmaker" wrote in message
... I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, The lathe itself would make a reasonably good starter lathe. It's pretty well equipped with tooling, and seems to have been kept in good shape. From the tooling picture it looks like the headstock and tailstock have a #1 Morse taper, so you have good possibilities for other tooling. The headstock looks like it probably has a 3/4" x 16 thread and if so you can easily find adapters and faceplates and chucks that can hook up to that thread. What makes it a good deal, though, is all the other stuff that comes with it. A pretty good table, looks like - there's probably a couple hundred dollars in labor just in the table - the grinder, and the chisels and other stuff. That Wolverine Vari-Grind is a fairly expensive and well-liked sharpening rig. You could actually throw the lathe away, and still feel like you'd spent your money well. Grab the headstock shaft by the pulleys or the spur drive and wiggle it hard back and forth, to see if you can detect any slop in the headstock bearings. If so it's not too tough to replace them. And you'd probably want to work out some kind of guard for the belt. My lathe is an even older Craftsman, the tube-type. I stripped it down and restored it and it's working OK for me but I'll make the step up to a more modern lathe one of these days. But right now I'm still having fun with it. Tom |
#3
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sawdustmaker wrote in
: I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, It's still there, posted 22 days ago? You guys must be overly rich with wood lathes... If around here, I'd be going to see it with $200 in my pocket. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#4
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On Sat, 25 Jul 2015 18:51:31 GMT
sawdustmaker wrote: I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html buy it cannot see any downside at all |
#5
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On 2015-07-26 00:49:44 +0000, Electric Comet said:
wichita.craigslist.org The only downside I can see is that it seems to have bronze bushings rather than ball bearings. Ball bearings are easy to replace. Bronze a major, especially if the shat is scored. CP |
#6
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In article ,
sawdustmaker wrote: http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html This is a decent lathe for doing chair spindles, tool handles, etc. However it is under powered and 9" is rather small for bowls. The vari-grind is an accessory for the wolverine system, which does not appear in the picture. Also the chisels if they are high speed steel are ok, but not great. |
#7
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Try it to see if you like it. e.g. you are not dumping out 5K or so
and find it isn't what you want. I have a Pre/Post WW II model - not tube. And that is what I use. The fact that the guy turned bowls on it means the bearings are likely ok. Learn how to use it and learn technique before you buy something else. Martin On 7/25/2015 1:51 PM, sawdustmaker wrote: I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, |
#8
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 25/07/2015 12:51 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, It depends on what you have in mind. If you want it to turn spindles for chairs, then go ahead. If you want to turn a salad bowl then forget it! I started on a Craftsman but soon sold it when I realised its limitations. I then bought a General. These days there are so many Taiwanese lathes that won't cost you much more and will do a lot more. In addition, they are 1"x8, for which it is much easier to find chucks and spare faceplates. Just my 5c worth. Graham -- |
#9
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Slightly undecided. 9 inch swing is less than the mini lathes. Mini lathes from Jet or Delta are 12 inch swing. 16 inch between center I think. Maybe 24 inches, not sure. This lathe is longer between center. But, almost no one turns more than about 12 inches between centers. People just do not turn spindles. The Steelex tools are maybe high speed steel. But Harbor Freight sells the same set in HSS for about $40. I bought the Harbor Freight set. The mini turning tools aren't really useful. As already mentioned, it includes the Wolverine vari grind jig, but not the Wolverine system that goes under the grinder. The jig is $50 or so, but the whole Wolverine system is $150 or so. It looks like you are just getting the cheap part. I don't think you would be harmed if you passed on this. Just look for some sales and buy a mini lathe and the extension bed. Get a set of HSS tools from Harbor Freight. Grinder and the Wolverine system too if you want a jig for sharpening the tools. More expensive, but I think higher quality when you are done.
On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 1:51:34 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote: I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, |
#11
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![]() "sawdustmaker" wrote in message ... I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions ( on the lathe ![]() http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html Thanks, Just a few thoughts from a right pondian. Looks decent and not expensive. Definitely underpowered. No provision for outboard turning Good bed length and decent swing. Exposed belting may have probs with flying shavings. Also the exposed belting does pose a more than minor hazard. Plain bearings (note oilers) are something of a downer. If not previously used/abused too greatly, should be ok. All in all I think it looks a fair purchase and you could probably consider the included items a bonus. As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly different but I've never seen this before. If I came across this in England, I would probably have a pop at it. I use an ancient Union Jubilee with 2hp motor. Wiring modified to spin the motor in reverse, invaluable for fine sanding/finishing. http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrisonwood/page2.html I think that if you are interest, you should have a go. You'll not be wasting your money. Just my 2P's worth. Nick, England (not old nick and not New England) |
#12
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"Nick" wrote in
: As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly different but I've never seen this before. A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. There are split-phase motors without starting caps, but they don't have very good starting torque, so you usually only see them in low power applications. John |
#13
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![]() "Nick" wrote: As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly different but I've never seen this before. -------------------------------------------------------- "John McCoy" wrote: A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. ---------------------------------------------------- Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors. They depend on the phase shift between rotor and stator to develop a limited amout of starting torque when starting. Typical split phase applications would be running cooling fans which require only limited amounts of starting torque. Single phase motors can be equipped with a starting capacitor which switches out when the rotor reaches operating RPM. They are known as cap start motors. These motors are used for high starting torque applications and are more expensive than split phase motors of the same size. There are also motors known as cap start, cap run motors. Cap start, cap run motors allow the motor designer to squeeze more HP from a given frame size. Typical applications would include a table saw where a 2 HP, 3450 RPM, 56 frame, 240 V will just fit into a 10" contractor's saw. This shoe horning of a large frame in a small space uses cap start, cap run technology. Lew |
#14
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:55b819a8$0$39457
: "John McCoy" wrote: A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. ---------------------------------------------------- Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors. I suggest you get out your electrical engineering textbook. What you posted is incorrect. John |
#15
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![]() "John McCoy" wrote: A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. ---------------------------------------------------- "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors. ----------------------------------------------------- "John McCoy" wrote: I suggest you get out your electrical engineering textbook. What you posted is incorrect. ----------------------------------------------------- Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor that is equipped with a capacitor. Lew |
#16
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:55b971df$0$29522
: "John McCoy" wrote: A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. ---------------------------------------------------- "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors. ----------------------------------------------------- "John McCoy" wrote: I suggest you get out your electrical engineering textbook. What you posted is incorrect. ----------------------------------------------------- Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor that is equipped with a capacitor. All capactitor start motors are split-phase motors. Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate: A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor with a starting winding. It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase motor. By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same thing to all intents and purposes). The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole motor, which does not have a starting winding. John |
#17
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![]() "John McCoy" wrote: A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor, and are usually called capacitor start motors. ---------------------------------------------------- "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors. ----------------------------------------------------- "John McCoy" wrote: I suggest you get out your electrical engineering textbook. What you posted is incorrect. ----------------------------------------------------- "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor that is equipped with a capacitor. ---------------------------------------------------- "John McCoy" wrote: All capactitor start motors are split-phase motors. Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate: A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor with a starting winding. It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase motor. By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same thing to all intents and purposes). The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole motor, which does not have a starting winding. --------------------------------------------------------------- So the question still stands. Where do you buy a split phase motor equipped with a capacitor? Lew |
#18
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#19
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