I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a DeWalt
DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch setting?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd790d2.aspx

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd990m2.aspx

I will ask around.

Thanks.

Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.

John Doe wrote in news:mo7ct1$vg$2@dont-
email.me:

Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.


What was the answer?

I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post the
solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:11:03 AM UTC-5, Puckdropper at dot wrote:
John Doe
Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.


What was the answer?

I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post the
solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I read all the reviews of all 6 drills - http://www.dewalt.com/tool-categorie...er-drills.aspx

I didn't see any mention of torque, torque adjustment, etc. Must have found the answer on some other website's reviews.

Seems this group of drills have a problem, to some extent, with stock chucks, i.e., wobble and/or breaking off, as per the reviews on the above site. Seems Dewalt will replace a wobbling/broken chuck with a different one, i..e., not the same as the stock chuck.

Sonny

On 7/16/2015 12:20 AM, John Doe wrote:
I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a DeWalt
DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch setting?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd790d2.aspx

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd990m2.aspx

I will ask around.

Thanks.

I doubt it.


--
Jeff

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post
the solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Apparently the more powerful version of the drill mentioned has a lot
more torque at the (same) highest clutch setting.

My own personal interest in the question subsided because the upgrade
became a no-brainer when I learned that while using the electronic
clutch the drill ramps up to speed (soft start).



I wrote:

I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a
DeWalt DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch
setting?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd790d2.aspx

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd990m2.aspx

The drill I referred to is not a hammer drill. The reviews I referred to
are from Amazon.


Sonny wrote in news:d5ee6d44-7c52-4ba2-a24c-
:

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:11:03 AM UTC-5, Puckdropper at dot
wrote:
John Doe
Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.


What was the answer?

I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post
th
e
solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I read all the reviews of all 6 drills - http://www.dewalt.com/tool-
categories/xr-system-drills--hammer-drills.aspx

I didn't see any mention of torque, torque adjustment, etc. Must have
found the answer on some other website's reviews.

Seems this group of drills have a problem, to some extent, with stock
chucks, i.e., wobble and/or breaking off, as per the reviews on the above
site. Seems Dewalt will replace a wobbling/broken chuck with a different
one, i.e., not the same as the stock chuck.

Sonny

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a DeWalt
DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch setting?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd790d2.aspx

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless...-dcd990m2.aspx

I will ask around.

Thanks.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

The purpose of the clutch is to let you set fasteners precisely--if
you're dealing with something that needs more torque than the highest
setting on a hammer drill then it's not that delicate to begin with.

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

krw wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...
"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...
I need more torque before the clutch slips.
What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John
I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.
My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He described what he wanted perfectly clear. He wants to be able to
apply more torque before the clutch slips. gee-whiz! ; )

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

--
Ed Huntress

In article , huntres23
@optonline.net says...

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

If that's what he's doing then why does he need the clutch to slip?

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 06:05:09 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article , huntres23
says...

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

If that's what he's doing then why does he need the clutch to slip?

I don't remember. He's discussed it, and you'll find discussion about
it over the past few weeks.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

Thanks.

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill and
the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for inline
skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with no clutch),
it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same drill
should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch right angle
drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can be
removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place. So
finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 16:11:25 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

Thanks.

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill and
the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for inline
skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with no clutch),
it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same drill
should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch right angle
drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can be
removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place. So
finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
great.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill
and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for
inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with
no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
right angle drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can
be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place.
So finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
great.

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 1:03:35 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill
and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for
inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with
no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
right angle drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can
be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place.
So finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
great.

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

....and there's this:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/a...bicycle#/story

John Doe wrote:

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
this one but done better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

First off - you have to understand that you have posted this across the
internet to a number of forums that are probably not so appropriate to your
needs/interest. Great - I'll post it to anyone who may have an idea...

Having gotten that off my chest - I still don't see why you need or want the
use of a clutch on your drill motor. You have control of the VSD via your
cable, so why worry about the clutch? Why not just imply use the drill
mode?

--

-Mike-

If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.

If you don't understand the answer already provided,
reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.

--
"Mike Marlow" mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net wrote in news:mobk4p$v06$1 dont-email.me:

Path: eternal-september.org!mx02.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
From: "Mike Marlow" mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Cordless drill clutch settings?
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 15:14:38 -0400
Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
Lines: 29
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John Doe wrote:

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
this one but done better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

First off - you have to understand that you have posted this across the
internet to a number of forums that are probably not so appropriate to your
needs/interest. Great - I'll post it to anyone who may have an idea...

Having gotten that off my chest - I still don't see why you need or want the
use of a clutch on your drill motor. You have control of the VSD via your
cable, so why worry about the clutch? Why not just imply use the drill
mode?

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 11:13:17 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Snip
What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

...and there's this:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/a...bicycle#/story

.... and there is this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGOled86Sjo

John Doe wrote:
If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.

If you don't understand the answer already provided,
reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.


Ummmmm - I have two letters in the English alphabet for you - one of them is
Y and it's not the first of the two. If you don't like the responses you
get from the spam you blast across the net forums, then don't include the
forums you don't like.

BTW - As brilliant as you think you are - many have already posted the very
same question, and you have not answered that question.

As for a troll - no, just a regular contributing member of a newsgroup that
you spammed.

Good luck with your project - it really does not require the amount of
complexity that you are putting into it, but it's your project, so run with
it.

--

-Mike-

DerbyDad03 wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the
drill and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push
stick for inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle
drill with no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much
stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
right angle drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way
bearing where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some
rollers that can be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing
the drill in place. So finding out what that does will have to wait
for the next build.

I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the
motor. I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped
for a year around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there,
and it was pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord,
and it worked great.

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
this one but done better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the
drill to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy
to operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot
pegs...

...and there's this:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/a...ricity-to-your
-bicycle#/story

Friction drive might be roughly the same difficulty to make as my (drill
to bottom bracket) setup. But I believe friction drive is less efficient.

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John


Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

John McCoy wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote:
er says...

I need more torque before the clutch slips.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and the
clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too big of a
bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Yup. Some people are here for the 80% off-topic political garbage and
know nothing about using tools.

But seriously. These groups are 80% off-topic political garbage.
Get a life.

--
"Mike Marlow" mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net wrote in news:mobks5$2v1$1 dont-email.me:

Path: eternal-september.org!mx02.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
From: "Mike Marlow" mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,free.usene t,free.spirit
Subject: Cordless drill clutch settings?
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 15:27:06 -0400
Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
Lines: 28
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John Doe wrote:
If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.

If you don't understand the answer already provided,
reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.


Ummmmm - I have two letters in the English alphabet for you - one of them is
Y and it's not the first of the two. If you don't like the responses you
get from the spam you blast across the net forums, then don't include the
forums you don't like.

BTW - As brilliant as you think you are - many have already posted the very
same question, and you have not answered that question.

As for a troll - no, just a regular contributing member of a newsgroup that
you spammed.

Good luck with your project - it really does not require the amount of
complexity that you are putting into it, but it's your project, so run with
it.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:12:58 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...
"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

In article , er
says...
I need more torque before the clutch slips.
What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John
I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.
My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He described what he wanted perfectly clear. He wants to be able to
apply more torque before the clutch slips. gee-whiz! ; )

At the last click, it won't.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes. If
the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off. When I
need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click over to drill
mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

John

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
m:

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes. If
the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off. When I
need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click over to drill
mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:35:44 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
m:

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

+1 (or use an impact driver)

krw wrote in
:

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
over to drill mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?


Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I saw a plumber on TV using a hand drill to saw a 4" hole
through the floor for a pipe access. That 4" hole cutter will
twist your elbow a bit if you have only the pistol grip working.

Martin

On 7/18/2015 9:35 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

John

On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

krw wrote in
:

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
over to drill mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?


Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
the clutch on any of my drills.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 23:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

krw wrote in
m:

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
over to drill mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?


Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
the clutch on any of my drills.

I was drilling a dozen holes in cast iron last month with a 5" spade
bit.

Not exactly something that can be run in a drill motor

http://www.muskegontool.com/spade-drils.html

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
krw wrote in
:

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
over to drill mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?


Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Puckdropper

Understood but typically after a bit catches and stops it requires even
more torque to complete the hole. Then you are back to not using the
clutch for drilling the remainder if the hole.

John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

John

A decent drill will put a screw in with care. The clutch settings on most
cordless drills are a PIA to use to begin with.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:45:16 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 23:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

krw wrote in
:

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
over to drill mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?


Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
the clutch on any of my drills.

I was drilling a dozen holes in cast iron last month with a 5" spade
bit.

Not exactly something that can be run in a drill motor

http://www.muskegontool.com/spade-drils.html

No, I don't think a cordless drill is the right tool for that job,
either. ;-)

Leon wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

A decent drill will put a screw in with care. The clutch settings on
most cordless drills are a PIA to use to begin with.

Very true on both points. I just find it easier to use a
hand screwdriver, and I'm not in any hurry. More often
than not I use the Yankee spiral screwdriver, even for
non-critical work. The cordless drill is mostly just for
drywall screws or deck screws now-a-days.

John